Innehållsförteckning för July 2017 från Allure

to hear her tell it, Val Garland became a makeup artist because it “seemed easier than doing hair.” But Garland didn’t build a career on smoky eyes or red lips (although she could probably execute both blindfolded and with one— hell, both—hands tied behind her back). Because that would’ve been: easy. Instead, she has spent her career dreaming up looks that are truly compelling, occasionally confusing, and always a touch out of our comfort zone. At a Vivienne Westwood show, Garland once covered models’ faces with clear gloss and had them shove their faces into a box of glitter. And when Lady Gaga wanted a bold statement for her Born This Way album cover, Garland thought: Prosthetics? With that, Gaga’s iconic alien cheekbones were born. But if you ask the…

W here are you from?” It’s a question I’ve been asked many times. “Mostly Connecticut,” I answer, “but I was born in New York.” In 8 out of 10 cases, though, I see a furrowed brow followed by “No, I mean what are you?” For my entire life, I knew myself to be 100 percent Chinese—and fully American, of course. Frankly, the textbook definitions of first- and second-generation still confuse me. My father emigrated from China as a child, and my maternal grandparents came over to raise 10 kids in Teaneck, New Jersey (I’m guessing that makes me first-and-three-quarters-generation?). On any number of official forms, we check boxes for our race and choose subcategories for our ethnicities. But as each year passes, it’s harder to categorize the average American. Yes,…

A frozen treat, a steamy makeout, these three steps. No matter how you get a softly smudged stain on your lips, remember: It’s all about embracing imperfection. 1 Stained lips and matte textures don’t make for an attractive combination: It looks like you were drinking red wine all night. A hydrating stain with a glossy !inish is easier to blend and becomes sheer—not patchy—as it fades. 2 No liner or brush needed here. Apply the color straight from the tube, then use your pinkie to blend it out just past the lip line. Add more of the stain to the center of your bottom lip to enhance the pigment. 3 While the look is smudgy, you don’t want it to get crazy messy. Makeup artist Deanna Melluso suggests patting foundation…

There is one place where it’s totally appropriate to wear face tats and a bandanna. Or a !lower crown with a Snoop tee. Or red lipstick and…a bra. We’re talking about a music festival, aka the magical, limitless land that makes Vegas look staid. Fine, there are some rules. According to Chapter 720 of the Illinois Compiled Statutes, it is illegal to wear your birthday suit to Lollapalooza. Moving on. A few things when planning your look: First, you want high impact, low maintenance (when a Porta Potty is the powder room, you won’t be powdering—ever). Second: the sun. Unless you’re at a festival in El Chaltén (a festival in El Chaltén?), the sun will show no mercy. And as we all know, nothing looks less cool with a pinafore…

1. TORY BURCH SUEDE- AND-PLASTIC JACKET. “I call this ‘minimalist cowboy.’ ” $598 (toryburch.com). 2. COACH 1941 LEATHER BAG. “My tribute to the women in Hidden Figures.” $650 (coach.com). 3. LEIGH MILLER. “She makes every piece in L.A., like this cool, organiclooking silver necklace.” $620 (leighmiller.us). 4. COACH 1941 PREFALL 2017. “All-American varsity vibes.” 5. TATA HARPER. “The skin-care version of farmto- table.” (tataharper skincare.com). 6. MARA HOFFMAN SWIMSUIT. “A one-piece that has me rethinking my love of bikinis.” $245 (marahoffman.com). 7. LEVI’S JEANS. “The wedgie fit does more for your butt than lunges.” $89.50 (levi.com). 8. CONVERSE CANVAS SHOES. “I’ve been wearing these since I was a kid.” $55 (converse.com).…

Kirsten and I lost track of time getting ready for the SAG Awards this year. She was newly engaged. I was checking out her gorgeous Fred Leighton ring. She kept busting me for talking instead of working. She had a spark going on from being so happy. We were loving her dress, her necklace (her stylists Nina and Clare Hallworth nailed it).... It was all begging for red lips. I had a lot of fun painting on Chanel’s jumbo lip crayon in Rouge (above)—a classic blue-based red that really is great on any skin tone. I pressed it into Kirsten’s lips with a lip brush so it would look lived in. Nothing is worse than a red lip that looks slapped on. (Well, maybe something, but nothing in makeup.) I…

That was Louis Armstrong’s reply when asked to explain the core rhythmic principle of jazz, perhaps the only inherently American art form. Armstrong wasn’t trying to be coy or cryptic but merely stating, in his frank way, that when it comes to art—and all beauty, for that matter—we ask the wrong questions. American beauty, like that only true American art, is inde!inable, confounding, opaque—and inspiring. It de!ies our human impulse to put things in neat categories. Our questions about beauty often betray our confusion, our insecurity, and sometimes, sadly, our prejudice. But the news is good. Because the state of American beauty now is a state of inclusion. It o"ers validation whatever your skin shade or eye color, whether you’re slim or curvy, whether you’re wearing a swipe of lip…

But the next 26 pages—of stunning humans, brave ideas, and iconic innovations—are only part of the story. Because there’s also the young Cuban woman we met in Miami. And the intellectuals at Manhattan’s all-female club, the Wing. And the Instagram girls who toss around their rainbow hair with irreverent joy. And the dermatologists who save our skin—and boost our confidence. And the politicians who work to ensure that women’s rights are, in fact, human rights. And the makeup artists who discover perfection in all of us. And the leaders who see patriotism in dissent. And the women who unlock the doors each morning at health clinics, shelters, and animal rescues. And the writers, the painters, the tattoo artists, the poets who find humanity and meaning when we fail to. And…

A Honduran, a Czech, and a Native American walk into a studio…to be photographed as the freshest models in America. They hail from Queens and Phoenix and Lansing, Michigan, and their individuality is as striking as their beauty. Clockwise from left, on Danielle Ellsworth: Denim jacket by Chanel. Denim jacket by Levi’s, tailored by Juliana Gibbons. Jeans by Miu Miu. On India Graham: Denim jacket and jeans by Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh. On Khadijha Red Thunder: Denim jacket by Matthew Adams Dolan. On Jay Wright: Denim jacket by Balenciaga. Jeans by Levi’s, tailored by Juliana Gibbons. Opposite page, from left: Jeans by Matthew Adams Dolan. Shoes, stylist’s own. On Cai Lee: Denim jacket and shorts by Faustine Steinmetz. On Londone Myers: Denim jacket by Katya Dobryakova. Denim skirt by Phlemuns.…

Merengue is humming from the speakers. A cake sits in the corner. And strangers hug like family. But the women aren’t crowding in for a birthday party. They are here for a blowout. A blowout before the party. To say the hair salon is important to the Dominican culture would be like saying the baseball diamond is a quintessential part of American life. There are nearly two dozen salons in Washington Heights (the New York City neighborhood that’s home to Little Dominican Republic) alone. And on a Saturday morning, every single one will be jam-packed. “It’s hair day, and I know I’ll be here for four hours or more,” says Mariela Cabrera, a customer of D’Amaly Beauty Center who arrived 30 minutes before opening. And with that, the cafecito makes…

How could “nude” ever characterize a single color? And yet. For a long, long, way too long time, the fashion and beauty industries (yes, ourselves included) used the word “nude”—to describe a lipstick, a bra, a nail polish—when what we meant was “some variation of beige.” So first: We’re sorry—for every time it happened. Second, we’ve evolved. And so have the biggest beauty companies in the country. Once focused on a narrow slice of the skin-tone spectrum, the best foundations and concealers now come in shades from palest porcelain to deepest mahogany—and the many, many colors in between. Lingerie brands are following suit. And shoe designer Christian Louboutin’s “nude” palette, once one shade (yes, it was beige), is now seven. We’d call that a few steps in the right direction.…

If there is a woman in this country who has not used, and loved, Maybelline New York Great Lash mascara, we’d like to meet her. The packaging has hardly changed in 47 years (it was inspired by Palm Beach’s Lilly Pulitzer circa 1971). Neither has the love of the lengthening, thickening, blueblack tint inside. With 9,472 mascara options (we’re rounding up) available in 2017, these hot-pink tubes have stayed on top. They currently sell at a rate of— wait for it—one every six seconds.…

When Rea Ann Silva cut the corners off her makeup sponges, there’s no way she could have known what would happen next. That seamless little orb would go on to inspire legions of reality stars, makeup artists, and Instagram darlings who got the one thing they needed to turn their foundation (and concealer, and highlighter), into a stunning airbrushed haze. And the makeup artist from Los Angeles who gave the world the Beautyblender would find a place alongside Helena Rubinstein, Estée Lauder, and the other giants of the beauty industry.…

She is Allure’s !irst Miss Minnesota USA semi!inalist. She’s also our !irst Kenyan-born cover star. And yes, the !irst one with braces. Meet Halima Aden, the model who ruled fashion week with her hijab, her con!idence, and her infectious smile. To say we were excited to photograph the 19-year-old for our American beauty issue would be something of an understatement. When Aden arrived at Big Sky Studios in London, it was clear that our excitement was matched by hers. She bounded around the space, danced, and posed for photographer Sølve Sundsbø. Then she snacked on vegetarian curry and cardamom rice and danced some more. With Rihanna, Beyoncé, and Drake blasting from the speakers, there was no denying what we were all feeling on set that day: The face of American…

On the beginning of a wild ride: “I was discovered on a dude ranch in Granby, Colorado, when I was 14. It was pretty close to where our house was. My mom and I were there for my sisters, who rode Western style, and a photographer was doing a photo shoot. He thought we were the models.” On the best find since Two Buck Chuck: “I use coconut oil on my face and on my body as lotion. I keep it pretty simple and don’t like testing a lot of products because I have sensitive skin. I probably should experiment more, but it’s done a good job. I usually get the organic one from Trader Joe’s—it’s like five bucks.” On an eye-opening beauty trick: “I’ve seen makeup artists heating up…

LOOK WE LOVE Bright Eyed It was only a matter of time: Carnival has arrived on our eyes. Chartreuse, electric indigo, fuchsia, and every other shade of wild are landing on lashes—and the crazier the color, the better the party. Take the clumpy, acid-neon colors makeup artist Inge Grognard used for the Emilio Pucci runway. Grognard brushed on a white fiber mascara to fatten up the lashes, then used a paintbrush to coat them in pigments so bright, they looked like they could glow in the dark. Or at the very least go great with a peacock headdress.…

Look. We can’t be masters of all trades. Some of us excel at contouring. Some can braid their hair without a mirror. Some (but not most...in fact maybe only three, four, tops) can freehand perfectly with liquid liner in the backseat of a car on an unpaved road. That’s why the whiz kids at M.A.C. engineered a roller-wheel liquid liner to keep our efforts on track. The small, almost razor-thin wheel creates sharp, straight lines in one !luid motion. So even if you’re going for a deconstructed Old Glory effect, you’ll nail it every time.…

STRIPES, TWO WAYS Somewhere between talk of Japanese art and the spiritual side of talismans, you realize what most people realize when they’re hanging out with Rashida Jones: The two of you should be best friends. The actress and executive producer of Claws, a new dark comedy about a nail salon on TNT, shows us that she has undoubtedly earned her stripes. -AMBER ANGELLE Check out what happened when we asked Rashida Jones to review wacky and weird beauty products at allure.com/rashida-jones. FAVORITE THINGS PERFUME: “Summer by Dasein.” NAIL POLISH: “Lakur. They make a putty gray without formaldehyde or other nasty things.” LIPSTICK: “Nars Dragon Girl is my go-to for night.” SKIN CARE: “I can’t live without Beautycounter No. 1 Brightening Facial Oil.” SHOES: “Sneakers. I mean, do I even…

Americans dream of open spaces. It’s why we turn road trips into rituals and make pilgrimages to canyons. Even if we’re accustomed to city life, the prospect of endless coastlines, piney clearings, and desert immensity tugs at us. This, in an unintended way, has complicated our relationship with fragrance. The purpose of a perfume, after all, is to draw others into our orbit. But that can feel intrusive. Pushy. Americans have never quite found a way to reconcile our desire for a broad wingspan with the close and encompassing nature of fragrance. Until now.…

people are staring at Halima Aden, and it’s for one of two reasons: She’s dressed very differently from everyone else at this New York City restaurant, and she’s stunningly beautiful. The people gawking at the model include a family in matching pastel-blue sweaters, a jet-lagged Italian couple, and a bevy of thin blondes swaddled in Mansur Gavriel accessories. And also me. We’ve met for Sunday breakfast at a restaurant that overlooks Central Park and sells $20 lemon-ricotta pancakes. Aden is wearing a version of what she wears every day: an ankle-skimming long-sleeved dress and a cinnamonhued hijab (head scarf, if you’re unfamiliar) that frames her perfect face like a cameo necklace. Even the braces gleaming on her teeth look glamorous. The answer to why people are staring is probably c)…

If someone asked you to paint a picture of feminism, what would it look like? Who would that woman be? A recent poll by research firm PerryUndem asked Americans whom they deemed the most prominent feminists in our country, and three of the top answers were women of color: Michelle Obama, Oprah, and Beyoncé. Today, the faces of American feminism are powerful activists, brilliant businesswomen, revolutionary artists. They are smart, creative, and utterly inspiring. With women like these leading the charge, we can rest assured that the future is most definitely female.…

Lindsay Lohan. Billy Joel’s “Modern Woman.” The scrunchie. All three were born in New York in the summer of 1986. Only one is relevant in the summer of 2017. We’ll let you guess. Ding, ding, ding! The scrunchie has long been an American beauty icon (and we don’t use that word lightly)—the hair accessory of Olympians and First Ladies, the Tanner sisters and the Heathers, Madonna and Selena Gomez. And while it never disappeared, it’s had its share of ups and downs and disrespect. Today, though, it stands strong and proud and, in some of its best moments, high on a head of glorious curls.…

We’re going to make a bold proclamation: Your average American man will soon have a makeup regimen. Our reasoning? 1) Some of YouTube’s biggest makeup stars today have stubble. 2) South Korea breeds our beauty routines—and men in Seoul know their way around BB creams and concealer pens. 3) FaceTime is an equal-opportunity demoralizer. But will our boyfriends, husbands, and brothers be ready? We gave Mark Anthony Green, an average(-ish—he’s supremely stylish) straight man, a makeup bag and a mission: Wear this stuff. Every day. No take-backs. He reports from the field. I can count on one hand the number of times my mother has said “fuck” while mad at me. It’s not that she’s a shy or particularly conservative lady. She just reserves that word for special occasions. It’s…

“Youth mania is insanity,” says style icon Iris Apfel, not one to mince words. “There is beauty in every age.” Many women will speak those words while simultaneously plotting their next line-erasing, cheek-plumping dermatologist visit. But Apfel is not many women. At 95, she is the embodiment of walking the walk. And she’s doing it with more energy and style than women a quarter her age. She is also still paving the road for a generation of ageless American women: author and Céline model Joan Didion, 82; stylist and Rodin Olio Lusso founder Linda Rodin, 69; Instagram darling Helen Van Winkle, 88. With a slick of fuchsia lipstick and a toss of dove-gray waves, these women aren’t just accepting their wrinkles—they’re embracing them. “Being appropriate for your age doesn’t mean…

In 2017, nails are more than things we file and trim. They’re works of art. Ten miniature canvases on which we can send any message we want. They’re foundations for sculpture. Or stark simplicity. Tips with meaning. Points of pride. In an era when fingertips can be every bit as expressive as words, we asked nine manicurists from across the country to tell the story of their hometown.…

Cover: Hil!iger Collection viscose nylon top, $230. Tommy.com. Nike hijab, $35. 800"806"6453. Cover Look, page 14: Versus Versace embellished top, $550. Versus versace.com. Céline silk pants, $2,650. Céline, N.Y.C. 212"535"3703. Nike hijab, $35. 800"806"6453. Charlotte Chesnais ring, $505. Charlotte chesnais.com. Céline cotton trench coat, $2,200 for similar styles. Céline, N.Y.C. 212"535- 3703. Page 16: Gucci cotton sweatshirt, $1,980, and silk top, $990. Select Gucci stores. Beauty School, page 24: Fallon necklaces, $240 each. Fallon jewelry.com. Page 25: Marc Jacobs lace dress, $2,600. Marc Jacobs, N.Y.C. 212"343"1490. Page 26: Holly Dyment ring, $3,100. Twist online.com. Good Burger, page 43: Nadine Ghosn Fine Jewelry rings, $6,850 for a set of six. Nadine ghosn.com. Elements of Style, page 48: Nehera viscose dress, $960. Mohawk General Store, Los Angeles. 323"669"1601. Loef!ler Randall silk-andleather sandals,…

Makeup artist Val Garland created soft smoky eyes on Aden using bronze cream shadow on her lids and black liner on her lash and water lines. She added a few swipes of mascara, filled in Aden’s brows, brushed apricot blush on her cheeks, and finished with pink lipstick. “We wanted to keep the essence of her youth,” said Garland.…

15 NUMBER OF DIFFERENT races American citizens were asked to choose from on the last U.S. Census Bureau questionnaire. 2017 YEAR BALENCIAGA felt the Bern, with designs that featured a cheeky interpretation of the logo Bernie Sanders used for his presidential campaign. $17.76 COST OF ONE lipstick from Makeup America, a cosmetics company that contributes $1 from each product sold toward paying down the $19 trillion (and growing) national debt. 5NUMBER OF DIFFERENT races listed on the U.S. Citizenship and Immigration Services application for naturalization. 131 AGE OF LADY LIBERTY; the monument will receive a $4.5 million “face-lift” this year to repair damage sustained during Hurricane Sandy. 85PERCENTAGE OF respondents to an Allure survey who believe that increased diversity in this country has changed what people consider beautiful. 64 PERCENTAGE WHO believe that women of…

“I was in the last phase of writing my thesis on longterm memory theory.” Not words you typically hear from style bloggers. But Negin Mirsalehi needed a diversion from her graduate business program, and instead of binge-watching Netflix originals, she put together a blog. Now she has nearly 4 million followers, Dolce & Gabbana modeling gigs, and magazine covers in the Middle East, Greece, and her native Netherlands. And she still finished that Master of Science in marketing—which actually comes in pretty handy when you’re running a global media brand. Her next side gig that’s poised to take off: Gisou, a honey-based hair-care line inspired by Mirsalehi’s family business es—her mother’s a hairstylist and her dad’s a beekeeper. Like we said: not typical. On the hidden life of bees: “My…

MANUKA HONEY You’ve probably seen headlines like: “I Washed My Face With Honey and It Was the Most Amazing Thing Ever.” Though we don’t actually drizzle the stuff on our face as if it’s a parfait, honey as a skin-care ingredient—speci!ically manuka honey from New Zealand or Australia—is, in fact, amazing. Unlike the antioxidants in other honey varieties, “the ones in manuka honey are very strong, so they don’t get destroyed as easily,” says Jeannette Graf, a dermatologist in Great Neck, New York. Add to that the fact that manuka honey is super moisturizing and suddenly smearing it on directly from the jar doesn’t seem so crazy after all. “It’s also antibacterial, which means it’s good for acne,” says Graf. Kiehl’s Pure Vitality Skin Renewing Cream relies on the ingredient’s…

A movement composed of independent, homegrown perfumers is reshaping the fragrance landscape, gradually changing the way we approach and experience scent. Straying from tradition, these olfactory trailblazers are creating fragrances with a distinctly American feel— solitary, rugged, luminous. A new frontier. But there’s another virtue, beyond the pioneering spirit, that motivates this group to push boundaries and break genres. It’s called defiance, and it’s just as entrenched in our American mentality. These artisans are inspired not necessarily by their love of fragrance but by a sense of opposition to it. “I really do hate perfume,” says Christopher Brosius, the founder of the avant-garde and aptly named fragrance line CB I Hate Perfume. His antagonistic view is understandable given the way he discovered the power of his nose. At the age of…

A Kenyan-born Muslim woman in a hijab is not exactly common on fashion runways. But with her rise to fame, Halima Aden joins an elite club: the models who broke glass ceilings, forged new paths, and inspired generations of women to realize they didn’t have to conform to one standard of beauty. The first plus-size model to reach stardom on the cover of a swimsuit issue. An African-American model who graced the cover of Life magazine way back in 1969. It was these women who pushed the envelope, moved the needle, and changed the world of beauty.…

According to official Air Force guidelines, its members (while on duty) must always be “neat,” “clean,” “groomed,” “pressed,” “zipped,” “snapped,” “buttoned,” “fitted,” “trimmed,” and “professional.” We’re talking about a military uniform, don’t forget. But all those mandates don’t leave a lot of room for personal style. Nearly one in five active-duty personnel in the Air Force is female, and among those 61,723 women exists every type of hair. “The women in the military are definitely growing in numbers and colors and shapes and sizes,” says Captain Chavery McClanahan, who wears her natural, chin-length hair either down or in a neat bun when she’s in uniform. (Out of uniform, it’s a different story: She figuratively lets her hair down.) There are, of course, strict regulations (nothing below the collar, no locs,…

It’s an act of bravery or a gesture of defiance. Maybe it’s the mark of a new chapter. Or possibly you just wanted to see what you’d look like as a gamine. Whatever the reason, shaved cuts are gaining popularity (see: Zoë Kravitz, Katy Perry, Amandla Stenberg). With its stark simplicity and vaguely androgynous beauty, this most unlikely of cuts has come to be emblematic of the country itself: honest, strong, and self-possessed.…

1993 YEAR KURT COBAIN wore chipped red nail polish and heavy eyeliner on the cover of The Face. 37 PERCENTAGE OF RESPONDENTS to a YouGov survey between the ages of 18 and 34 who think it’s perfectly acceptable for men to wear mascara. 2016 YEAR JAMES CHARLES became the face of CoverGirl’s So Lashy mascara campaign and the first man to model for the brand. 5,823,549 NUMBER OF YOUTUBE VIEWS (and counting) for Jeffree Star’s “Drugstore Makeup Tutorial.” 3 NUMBER OF SECTIONS RuPaul cuts false eyelash strips into before applying them: “It’s so much easier than putting on the whole strip at once.” 300 PERCENTAGE GROWTH IN the men’s beauty category on mrporter.com since it launched in 2013 $43.6 billion EXPECTED SIZE OF the men’s grooming market by 2020.…

“To me, Kerry Armstrong and Sandra Shadic of Home Dog LA represent beauty. Home Dog LA believes that every family deserves to keep their beloved pets, even when they come across hard times.” !DIANE KEATON, ACTRESS AND L’ORÉAL PARIS SPOKESMODEL “If you stand in Herald Square or Times Square or Grand Central Station at 8:30 in the morning or 5:30 at night, and you watch the variety of people walk by from all walks of life, all ages, and different points of view style-wise, that polyglot diversity is what American beauty is right now.” !MICHAEL KORS, DESIGNER My idea of what new American beauty is can be found in the few who aren’t afraid to choose right over wrong. They are the people of service. The volunteers, the philosophers, and…

She has inspired hair products, bathing suits, songs, and a timeless brand of windswept beauty. She’s been around for decades and has barely changed, while we continue to grow more enamored. The American surfer girl— whether she’s from North Carolina or the North Shore, Malibu or Montauk (like Quincy Davis here)—is as comfortable catching a wave as she is slipping out of a wet suit and into a sundress. Hers is a uniquely American blend of strength and sex appeal. Pro surfer Quincy Davis was born and raised in Montauk, New York. All clothing, Davis’s own. Fashion stylist: Esther Matilla. Hair: John Ruidant. Makeup: Akiko Owada.…

Meryl Streep—not only for her physical beauty but for her intelligence and the powerful charisma she exudes.” !FRANÇOIS NARS, MAKEUP ARTIST “At the Women’s March in D.C. this January, I looked up and saw a sign that someone had made that read ‘Equality hurts no one.’ Nowhere was it more in evidence than that day, when I watched people of all ages, ethnicities, genders, cultures, and sexuality treat each other with deference and humanity as we marched together in solidarity. That is the essence of American beauty.” !JULIANNE MOORE, ACTRESS AND L’ORÉAL PARIS SPOKESMODEL American beauty today is embodied by the diverse, multicultural, bold, and empowered women who are standing up to make a difference for future generations of women in America. !JASON WU, DESIGNER “A true American beauty is…

In 1962, President Kennedy asked an unlikely dance troupe to travel to the far corners of the planet, 10 countries in all. Theirs was no small task: Share the beauty of American art, dance, and culture with the rest of the world. The group was known as the Alvin Ailey American Dance Theater, and its unprecedented rise started in the performance space of the 92nd St. YM!YWHA (aka the Y) of New York City in 1958. Within a few years, the group had caught the eye of a president and the admiration of a nation. A few decades later, the troupe has performed for more than 25 million people in 71 countries and has been called a “vital American cultural ambassador to the world” in an of"icial congressional resolution. But…