Innehållsförteckning för September 2018 från Allure

I’m pretty sure I’ve watched every episode of every Anthony Bourdain series ever made. Anyone who knows me knows that I’m absolutely obsessed with food. But the late chef also had a major impact on the way I view the world. I’ve often talked about how I admire the way he used food as a lens to explore culture. And I’ve strived for that at Allure when it comes to beauty. He once said, “Food is everything we are. It’s an extension of nationalist feeling, ethnic feeling, your personal history, your province, your region, your tribe, your grandma. It’s inseparable from those from the get-go.” Parts Unknown wasn’t a show about cooking. It was a show about culture. It opened us up to places and people that we might have…

Black Honey started in the ’70s disco era, when the look was super glossy, wet makeup—very Halston. But it wasn’t Black Honey as we know it. The original wasn’t a stick; it was a shiny, potted black lip gloss that our founder, Carol Phillips, thought looked like a honey pot because it was so gooey. It was one of several potted glosses with Honey names, but Black Honey was Carol’s baby—there was nothing else like it at a time when everyone was wearing bright disco colors. It’s like she had a crystal ball. Fast-forward to the late ’80s, and potted glosses had gone out of fashion. Carol decided to convert just one of the Honeys, Black Honey, into a stick. She wanted everyone to be able to wear it, so—like…

CAMILA COUTINHO LCN BRASIL This fashion blogger from Recife, Brazil, created 10 nail lacquers—a mix of neutrals and vivid brights—to go with any outfit. MAYELA VAZQUEZ XANTERÍA A makeup artist from Monterrey, Mexico, Vazquez dreamed up a brilliant gizmo—four makeup brushes nested inside one tool. So you can apply blush, bronzer, foundation, shadow, liner, and powder, all with the Mayela Vazquez for Xantería Cosmetica The Multitasker brush (above). JENNIFER LOPEZ INGLOT A proud Puerto Rican (she donated $1 million to disaster-relief efforts there last year) and entrepreneur, Lopez’s comprehensive makeup line is as glowing as you’d expect. CAMILA CABELLO L’ORÉAL PARIS The Cuban-American recording artist’s L’Oréal Paris Camila Cabello Havana Collection is poised to be a drugstore hit.…

1. Tata Harper Resurfacing Serum sloughs off dullness with mild alpha and beta hydroxy acids, moisturizes with olive-derived squalane, and disguises ruddiness with a tomato-derived green tint. 2. Dermalogica Rapid Reveal Peel is a once-a-week treatment with lactic acid molecules that don’t penetrate (and potentially irritate) skin as deeply as other exfoliating acids, so it left our skin softer, not scarier. 3. Moon Juice Beauty Shroom Exfoliating Acid Potion is a natural toner with a trio of acids (glycolic, lactic, salicylic) tempered by emollient tocotrienols (a relative of vitamin E) and antioxidant reishi mushrooms (the extract that’s made the brand’s powdered supplements a cult hit).…

THE BEAUTY EXPERTS BEHIND THE BEST-SELLING LIP COLORS ARE SKILLED STORYTELLERS. “I don’t want to wear just any nude,” says consumer psychologist Kit Yarrow. “I want to wear a sexy, continental, Italian nude.” This isn’t wishful thinking; Yarrow is describing the evocative name of her everyday By Terry lipstick, Nudissimo—a made-up word that conveys voluptuousness and excess with just a few extra vowels. “It’s an exciting name for a shade that I slap on in the car without a mirror.” To be clear, Yarrow, the author of Decoding the New Consumer Mind: How and Why We Shop and Buy (Wiley), is an expert at analyzing how the human brain responds to branding mechanisms. She studies our reactions to marketing cues with scientific objectivity—the way a marine biologist might observe a…

Dr Pepper Lip Smacker started in 1975 with a handshake agreement between Dr Pepper’s CEO, Foots Clements, and Bonne Bell Lip Smacker’s founder, Jess Bell. At the time, Lip Smacker was only two years old, and Clements was growing Dr Pepper beyond being just a regional Texas, Louisiana, and Arkansas soft drink, so he was looking for new ways to expose folks to the brand. The lip balm launched with an ad in Seventeen magazine that explained how we’d taken a beverage and put it in a lip balm. That wasn’t something other brands were doing at the time. [Lip Smacker had just invented flavored lip balm two years before, in Strawberry, Lemon, and Green Apple.] Now there was a lip balm that smelled and tasted like Dr Pepper, and…

Lip fillers come with side effects. Most likely to occur: swelling. Your lips may be at least twice their size for the first few hours, so make plans afterward only if you’re willing to divulge where you’ve been. “I’d advise a low-key night, just to be safe, and avoid eating salty foods right after, too, to minimize swelling,” says Ranella Hirsch, a dermatologist in Boston. “Skip happy hour and sleep on an extra pillow for the same reason. Don’t worry if you toss and turn—the filler’s not going to move, I promise.” But that’s no guarantee you’ll wake up and see your final results. “A quarter of my patients experience minor swelling for a few days,” says Robert Anolik, a dermatologist in New York City. Also likely: a few days…

“In the distant future, we may be able to inject lip fillers using a high-velocity, very focused stream of water instead of a needle,” says S. Manjula Jegasothy, a dermatologist in Miami. “It’s like a Waterpik.” Only it uses a stream of water so powerful, it breaks through the skin, bringing filler ingredients in with it. A technique for injecting Botox with water “is already beginning beta testing, and I could see that happening for fillers down the road,” says Jegasothy. It’s as big a deal as it sounds, and it means injectables could get even less painful than they already are (for reference, they have about the same pain factor as a flu shot—some say they hurt less, since a flu shot involves a much bigger needle) and be…

NO ACCIDENT There’s no reason you can’t challenge the very structure of the face, like makeup artist Georgina Graham did when she painted on this skewed lavender kiss. And why not translate disco-ball glitter lids to your lips? No need to blot if you really want to leave your mark. MATCH POINTS By all means, coordinate your orange-red lips to your hat, blazer, nails, and fuzzy slippers. If you really want to challenge yourself, though, make the color scheme metallic chartreuse. Next-level coordination isn’t about blending in—it guarantees you will stand out. FINISHING SCHOOL Bright colors aren’t the only way to play. Varnish your lips with a slick of gloss (bonus points if it’s a little holographic, like your jacket). Or outline your lips and skip the fill. For the…

We interrupt this 24/7 dental program with a special message about the bane of sneezing and wheezing. More pointedly, scientists have developed a strategy to harness the power of toothpaste to help fight respiratory allergies. Currently, those buggers can be dealt with in one of two ways: by ingesting or spraying meds in the nose indefinitely or by opting for three to five years of a weekly shot to expose you to the very thing that your immune system is overreacting to—say, pollen or pet dander—until you become less sensitive to the trigger. But now, let us hail the third option: Allerdent, a fluoride-optional toothpaste, priced at the doctor’s discretion, that your allergist will mix with a tailored-to-your-allergies liquid serum containing a small dose of the proteins you’re reactive to.…

Inside the fluoride-white walls of the Apple Store, past thousands of dollars’ worth of iPads and MacBook Pros, through the phalanx of Geniuses, there stands a toothbrush that looks like a Brancusi sculpture and operates like an intelligent robot. It syncs to your iPhone (or iPad or Apple Watch) and dispenses more information than you would normally mull over regarding your teeth or brushing routine. (How often, for instance, do you think about the choreography of your brushing?) The Colgate Connect E1 Smart Electronic Toothbrush does everything a smart toothbrush should do (vibrates across the surface of your teeth), plus some things a human should (coaches you on technique with a 3D diagram of your mouth, highlighting problem areas to work on and sending the details to your dentist, should…

painted lady This story is all about red lips—and we will get to them!—but a more pressing question here might be: How do you apply eight different colors to your eyelids? “I used the tips of my fingers,” says makeup artist Lucy Bridge. “They’re the best tools I have.” all lined up The drama of red lipstick—without the red lipstick. A little liner (and little else) goes a long way. slippery when wet This candied-apple effect requires layering (and the avoidance of large sandwiches and windy situations). A combination that always delivers shine for us: Lancôme L’Absolu Rouge lipstick in Caprice topped with two coats of L’Absolu Lacquer Gloss in Brave Lips. anya’s choice Taylor-Joy’s favorite red lipstick, bar none, is Maybelline New York SuperStay Matte Ink Liquid Lipstick in…

Crisis Text Line Text 741741 from anywhere in the U.S. at any time to talk with a trained crisis counselor. After the death of Kate Spade, the Kate Spade New York Foundation Campaign donated $250,000 to this organization. It plans to donate over $1 million to mental health awareness causes. crisistextline.org Dr. Brandt Foundation Dedicated to destigmatizing the conversation about mental health issues. Services focus on art and art therapy, reflecting the late Fredric Brandt’s passions. drbrandtfoundation.org National Suicide Prevention Lifeline This service provides 24/7 free and confidential support to people in crisis. 800-273-8255; suicidepreventionlifeline.org The Trevor Project National 24/7 suicide hotline for LGBTQ+ youth. They offer TrevorChat, which is a free instant-messenger service, and TrevorSpace, a social-networking site for those under 25. 866-488-7386 to talk to someone; 202-304-1200 to…

As you read through the most comprehensive lips-themed issue any magazine has offered to date, take a moment to forget everything you know about lipstick. That’s what we asked of makeup artist Yuki Hayashi when we gave him a handful of Dior’s marker-like Rouge Dior Ink Lip Liners, out this month. All 12 shades (a mix of reds, pinks, and nudes with a few standouts, such as near-black and peachy orange) stain your lips (instead of sitting on top of them and feeling waxy), and their felt tips come to a fine point, so they’re easy to draw with precisely. Hayashi used them to create lip art inspired by Picasso’s Cubist period, contrasting shadows with shocks of color and light. If you’re more minimalist, Hayashi suggests starting simple: Run a…

We proudly present…an ironclad case for glitter-strewn hair. Argument A: When your peers are still perfecting their cat eyes, you’ll be leagues ahead of them, having moved on to a whole new dimension of glamour. Argument B: How else will you accessorize for that mermaid-themed Labor Day pool party? Argument C: It’s extremely easy. Just mist the subtly sparkling, excellent-smelling Drybar x Too Faced Glitter Spritzer throughout your lengths for KiraKira-like twinkle, or spray the amped-up, brilliant IGK Preparty Hair Strobing Glitter from root to tip for gleaming highlights. Argument D: Life is far too short to not embrace glittering hair.…

Benefit’s Brow Contour Pro 4-in-1 pen reimagines the multicolor click pens of the ’70s as a four-way brow enhancer. Because yes, there are now that many ways to enhance your brows. There’s a deep shade (to fill from tail to arch) and a lighter one (to subtly enhance inner corners). Two more clicks get you two shimmer-free highlighters—a darker one to define the top and bottom edges of your brows and a more champagne-y color to accentuate arches from below. Plus, each creamy pencil has a precise point for natural, hairlike strokes that equal brow perfection. Times four.…

LIP LINER: “As we age, the line around our lips becomes less crisp,” says Melissa Doft, a plastic surgeon in New York City. “A little filler helps delineate them.” Doft uses smaller-than-small dosages (aka microdroplets) of hyaluronic acid around the lips’ border to make it look more defined, similar to the effect you get with a lip pencil. It only takes about half a cubic centimeter of product, “and your lipstick won’t bleed for the next 6 to 12 months,” she says. GLOSS: “Kids have plump, moist lips because they produce a lot of hyaluronic acid naturally,” says Jessica Wu, a dermatologist in Los Angeles. Over time, however, that production wanes and lips get thinner and drier. Once you’re all grown up, small amounts of hyaluronic acid filler injected superficially—so…

Why, at age 68, did I decide to get lip fillers? Well, I started noticing some wrinkling around my lips—my mother has the same lines, even though neither of us is a smoker. There was one wrinkle that was quite pronounced that just bothered me, so my doctor filled in the lines I was worried about. I definitely didn’t want the full-blown lip filler that the movie stars have. This just makes my lips more rounded, so when I put my lipstick on, they look fuller. I did it just for me. I’m a recent widow—I’m not looking to go out and meet anybody or anything. I was married to a dermatologist for 47 wonderful years. He did fillers on patients, but he always told me I didn’t need it:…

The path to enhancing your lips used to be found behind door number one (injections) or door number two (actually, there are also injections behind this one). But now more women are choosing to unlock door number three—the lip lift. “No one knew this procedure existed two years ago, but now I have twentysomethings requesting it by name,” says Dara Liotta, a facial plastic surgeon in New York City and Dubai, who performed dozens of lip lifts last year. The standard lip lift has long been done on older patients, often at the same time as a face-lift, but surgeons have modified it in recent years (more discreet scars, faster recovery) to make it an appealing stand-alone option for younger patients. Typically done under local anesthesia in less than an…

{ NEW YORK CITY } LIP FILLERS Doft Plastic Surgery, Melissa Doft. More than one Allure editor treks from our (way) downtown offices to the Upper East Side to get lip-filler touch-ups here. 755 Park Ave. 212-600-4109. Rowe Plastic Surgery, Norman M. Rowe. Speedily delivers some of the best (and least immediately swollen) results we’ve gotten. 820 Park Ave. 212-628-7300. Union Square Laser Dermatology, Shereene Idriss. An ace at fixing bad work—but we recommend just going to her in the first place. 19 Union Square W. 212-366-5400. COSMETIC DENTISTRY Gary A. Rabinowitz. His before-and-afters speak for themselves—always straighter and whiter, never talk-show-host-ier. 515 Madison Ave. 212-832-5214. Lowenberg, Lituchy & Kantor, Brian Kantor. Where our favorite dermatologists send patients who want to polish their smiles, too. 230 Central Park S. 212-586-2890.…

BRACES ALIGNERS THE BASICS Metal wire and brackets move teeth gradually into the desired position by applying pressure via adjustments made every month or so. Plastic trays prescribed by an orthodontist straighten teeth when updated every one or two weeks (and worn whenever you’re not eating or drinking). THE COST (money+time) Between $5,000 and $10,000 and about 18 to 24 months (depending on the level of adjustment and location of provider). Between $5,000 and $10,000 and about 18 to 24 months (depending on the level of adjustment, frequency of wear, and location of provider). THE CANDIDATES Most helpful for patients with very twisted or crowded teeth. “Anything in the extremes becomes more difficult for aligners to address,” Forsea says. Generally, best suited for someone with a good bite (defined as…

There is no product I won’t try in the pursuit of gorgeous teeth. A perfect smile combines all of the virtues I hold dearest—discipline, hygiene, and dazzling good looks. And because I lack most of them, I rely on the evolving oral-care industry to cater to my incredibly lazy and devastatingly handsome lifestyle. For example, I tried Curaprox Black Is White Chewing Gum, which made my teeth feel squeaky-clean but did not render them whiter. I shattered a glass ampoule of Go Smile Stain Eraser (per instruction!) to release hydrogen peroxide into a small sponge and rubbed it vigorously across my teeth. It worked just as well as brushing but included a sexy heightened risk factor. For ambience, I lit Anya Hindmarch’s toothpaste candle, which combines spearmint, peppermint, and menthol…

For many of us, a “clean” mouth is a minty mouth, and globally, mint is the leading flavor of the oral-hygiene industry—but there are a few regional tweaks. The U.S. leans toward a mixture of peppermint and spearmint, while in the U.K. and China, paste is typically spiked with salt, a natural antibacterial and whitener. In India, cardamom—an antioxidant that helps fight odor—is a common ingredient, and further north, in Japan, green tea and elderflower flavors are freshening breath. If you’re looking to branch out, hipster-beloved Italian import Marvis offers a licorice-laced formula, while French company Lebon has evolved flavor profiles of rose–orange blossom and pineapple. Variety, after all, is the spice of life.…

A casual observer of Andy Warhol’s work might wonder aloud to the person next to them at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City, or the Art Institute of Chicago, or the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, “Why was this guy so obsessed with lips?” Take his portrait of Elizabeth Taylor (featured in the artwork above), lips scarlet and ever so slightly overdrawn. Or consider Chairman Mao Tse-tung, lips tinted to match his jacket, even though the guy was not a noted lover of lipstick. And then there’s that collage where Warhol printed Marilyn Monroe’s lips 168 times. Much of Warhol’s artistic formation came about during his days in advertising, a theme that reverberates through his work. Advertising imagery is all about semiotics: symbols, metaphors, showing rather…

74 Percentage of people who turn their heads to the right when they kiss—typically, the hand you write with predicts which way your head will tilt. 59 Percentage of men who have ended a budding relationship because of bad kissing, according to a study conducted by the University at Albany. (Women aren’t as generous—66 percent have quickly called it quits with subpar kissers.) 2 Approximate duration, in seconds, of the first-ever onscreen smooch, in Thomas Edison’s 1896 (very) short film The Kiss. It was highly scandalous and denounced by the Roman Catholic Church. (The papal jury is out on rose smooches, though.) 22 The number of men the average woman will kiss before finding “the one,” according to a pre-royal-wedding study conducted in the U.K. 80 MILLION Number of bacteria…

When I was six years old, I took my first passport photo—with red lipstick on. My grandmother had given it to me. She was the one who let me put red lipstick on for the first time. My hair had been lightened by the sun because we lived in Brazil, so I had short blonde hair and red lips. In high school, my family and I moved from my Brazilian hometown, Virginópolis, to Scranton, Pennsylvania. I was an honor roll student, but instead of going to college after I graduated, I got a job at the Macy’s Dior counter selling makeup. My mother was upset, but I told her not to worry, that I would make her proud. Then I found YouTube. It started as a hobby, of course—making beauty…

Clarisonic just got a couple of high-tech updates: The new Mia Smart syncs with your phone so you can track how often you cleanse and (more importantly) check out before-and-after photos in the Clarisonic app to decide whether your routine is worth sticking to. It also comes with a softer, gentler cleansing brush head whose indicator turns red when it’s time for a fresh one. But even more exciting (if you ask us): The Mia Smart debuts with a massaging under-eye attachment, and data shows that it firms puffy skin and smooths crow’s feet and undereye wrinkles in as little as two months. “The rapid oscillation can stimulate circulation so your eyes look brighter, and anytime you massage your skin, you’re waking up fibroblasts to trigger collagen production,” says Whitney…

The hardest part about affixing multiple tiny gemstones only slightly larger than sesame seeds to the teeth of a living human person has nothing to do with the meticulousness it requires. Nor does it have anything to do with straddling the roles of both jeweler and dentist, two careers fundamentally rooted in precision and discipline but not frequently linked. It’s not painstakingly sourcing the best Swarovski crystals on God’s green earth or even asking Kendall Jenner to lie absolutely still while you apply semipermanent accessories to her teeth. No, the hardest part of offering such a wildly specific service is figuring out what to call it. “It took me six months to come up with the name,” says Susie Juray, aka Tooth Kandy, aka owner of the United States’ most…

1893 Gustav Neuber, a German plastic surgeon, uses fat from a patient’s arm to fill a scar, paving the way for fillers. 1899 In Vienna, a surgeon injects paraffin into a man’s scrotum, and doctors then start injecting it into lips (and breasts and noses). Most patients wind up with permanent masses, called paraffinomas. 1960s Doctors begin injecting liquid silicone into lips. The permanent material causes bumps and nodules, but the practice continues for decades. 1981 The first collagen filler, Zyderm, is FDA approved. It’s derived from cows and requires an allergy test. Human-collagen fillers follow 22 years later. 1984 Dermatologist Arnold Klein pioneers collagen lip injections in—where else?—Beverly Hills. “Lips are the only visible sexual organ,” he tells The New York Times years later. 1996 Swedish scientists create Restylane,…

1 CC: Cubic centimeter, the volume measurement most doctors use to describe how much filler they’re using. Most syringes hover just under or above 1 cc (but you pay per syringe, not per cc). Subtle lip enhancement usually requires about ¼ to ½ cc. 2 HYALURONIDASE: A chemical that dissolves hyaluronic acid fillers. In other words: a safety net if your injector goes overboard. 3 HYALURONIC ACID: Not an actual acid—it’s a sugar that plumps skin by holding 1,000 times its weight in water. This is the filler itself, the stuff you’re getting injected into your lips. Different versions have different molecular weights (some are bigger and better for volume, and others are smaller and more subtle). It’s naturally found in human joints, for lubrication, and is also used by…

PARIS BERLIN LE CRAYON LEVRES IN CR 211 Recommended by makeup artist Benjamin Puckey A great lip pencil is hard to find. There’s a fine line (see what we did there?) between too soft and smeary and too hard and waxy. These pencils walk it perfectly. “They’re matte yet creamy, the color is saturated, and they glide easily,” says Puckey, who discovered them in Paris (you can get them online now). And the pencils’ old-school No. 2 design isn’t just aesthetic: “You can sharpen them into a fine point because they’re wooden.” HENNÉ ORGANICS ROSE DIAMONDS LIP EXFOLIATOR Recommended by Kerrilynn Pamer, cofounder of the CAP Beauty boutiques At clean-beauty mecca CAP Beauty (in New York City and Los Angeles), shelves burst with natural lotions and balms. Suffice it to…

Here’s a sobering fact: The ethanol commonly used in mouthwash to kill gum-disease-causing germs can also cause sensitivity and temporary burning and exacerbate dryness. According to recent studies, ethanol-free washes that use gentler antimicrobials can be just as effective—without the hangover. Listerine Sensitivity relies on potassium oxalate to protect teeth from the inside out by forming calcium oxalate crystals. Hello Products Activated Charcoal Mouthwash polishes teeth to a glossy shine. Keeko Coconut Oil Pulling Mouthwash whitens by loosening plaque. Italian-made Marvis Strong Mint Mouthwash uses xylitol to balance pH levels. And for truly delicate flowers, just mix a drop or two of Floris Rose Mouthwash concentrate into water. How refined.…

What DryBar is to blowouts, Floss Bar is to smiles. The traveling East Coast outfit offers on-demand cleanings from dental hygienists in scented rooms with upbeat music. “We’ve made whitening, cleaning, X-rays and flossing accessible,” says founder Eva Sadej. Appointments are available until 8 P.M., so regular cleanings are easier to schedule. (Translation: The more you keep up with cleanings, the smoother biannual dentist sessions are likely to go.) If a patient needs greater care, you’ll get a referral to an affiliate dentist for consultation. Floss Bar accepts most insurances, and an exam and whitening cost $315. A quick polish and floss will set you back just $25.…

Let’s get one thing straight: Orthodontic aligners can harbor some pretty icky stuff. But now a group of researchers has developed a water-attracting film that, according to their study, published by the American Chemical Society, can reduce bacterial growth on the surface of aligners by 75 percent. The first-of-their-kind nanofilms, made from cellulose and chitosan, coat aligners and form a layer of water that keeps microbial communities (critters in your mouth that can cause decay and bad breath) from attaching. This could mean “less staining or discoloring of aligners, decreased odor, and an overall lowered risk of bacteria in your mouth,” says California-based orthodontist Katie M. Bales. The film is still in development, but until something like this is available for purchase, a simple toothbrush and floss continue to be…

1 Complement brown eyes with cool blue-toned lip colors, like deep reds or purples. Against blue or green eyes, warm orange-reds and corals pop. —Vincent Oquendo 2 When hydrating your lips, more is more: Apply balm past the lip line, onto the skin. Leave it on for as long as possible before putting on lipstick. —Mally Roncal 3 Choose one place (Cupid’s bow, bottom lip) to overdraw your lips with pencil that matches your lipstick—emphasizing a single area looks natural. —Oquendo 4 Less is more when you’re wearing blush with bright lipstick—pick a blush that’s in the same color family as your lipstick, and use a light hand. —Mylah Morales 5 Put on a matte liquid lipstick, then apply a regular lipstick over it. Using similar shades—or different ones—creates its…