First settled at least 7,200 years ago, Great Prespa Lake still entices people for many of the same reasons it has since Neolithic times: The climate is pleasant, the freshwater fishing is good, and the hilly terrain protects against unwelcome intruders. Archaeological sites dot the lake’s shores, now split among North Macedonia, Albania, and Greece, but the best-preserved today are on two small islands, Golem Grad, meaning “Big Town,” in the North Macedonian sector of the lake, and Maligrad, or “Small Town,” in the Albanian sector. The sites have yielded substantial finds from nearly four millennia of human activity, from roughly 2200 B.C. to the Ottoman conquest in the late fourteenth century a.d.
Golem Grad showcases the life of a village from the ancient to medieval period. Neolithic Prespans fished…