Innehållsförteckning för No. 25-5 från Australian Stitches

Change – sometimes it’s for the good, and well, sometimes it’s not! You are either open to change, or you’re not. With the constant changes in fashion, you have to adapt to them or you get stuck in the rut of wearing the same style ‘since forever’. With Eddi’s Shapewise Guide & Pattern Trends, I hope you can make the ‘change’ and adapt some of the information into something that will suit your personality and lifestyle! As for the rest of the magazine … it’s full of sewing information and creative ideas, all of which I hope you enjoy! Happy sewing until next time, PS. If you have a story to share, or a new garment you have created, we’d love to hear from you. Please email me at stitches@wpco.com.au…

Pant Body Cut The pants body cut is determined by the length of the front and back crotch extensions. The crotch extension is that por›on of the pant that extends out from centre front and centre back to cover the inside part of the leg. See diagram 1. The crotch extensions determine how the pants conform to the body. The length of the crotch extension is determined by the hip circumference, the upper thigh circumference, and the desired style. The front crotch extension is most o›en shorter than the back crotch extension. The length of the crotch extensions can be changed to accommodate a protruding or flat abdomen or bu›ocks. Body cut op›ons include jean, slack, trouser, and culo›es. See diagrams 2 and 3. Jean Body Cut The jean cut…

Today, pants are an essen›al element in most wardrobes, worn almost anywhere and on almost any occasion. Generally the most popular designs have slight flares or straight legs which fla›er less-than-perfect figures, but styles can also be close fi›ng to showcase beau›ful bodies. Flatter the figure A fla›ering pair of pants will make you look taller and thinner. Designed to create the illusion of an elongated, slimmer figure, trousers have an assortment of ver›cal lines such as the fly front, s›tched pleats and waist-to-ankle creases which make you look taller. Slanted pockets at the sides minimise large thighs and hips, making you appear slimmer. For a more formal look, try styles which have some fullness and a slight flare at the hem. Generally, so› fabrics with enough body to skim…

The two main figure types discussed here are the ‘full tummy’ and the ‘spare tyre’. To differen›ate between the two, consider what a tyre would look like wrapped around your waist. In this case, the fullness would be spread evenly around the torso on the high hip. For a full tummy, the fullness tends to be predominantly at the front of the figure, with the centre back being flat or hollow. Please note that we could measure these two figures and their measurements could be iden›cal – the difference between them is only apparent when we view the body in person. The spare tyre has a visual shape obvious from the front and the full tummy has a shape obvious from the side. See diagram 1. The technique for altering…

The Statement Coat A ‘statement coat’ may seem scary at first, as the statement it makes is o›en quite bold, in shape, colour and pa›ern. But there is really nothing to fear, if you keep a few points in mind. Oversized shapes s›ll reign supreme this winter, so when wearing such roomy shapes, keep the line very sleek and streamlined underneath … playing the season’s latest colour game of wearing similar shades tone-on-tone not only elevates the sophis›ca›on of your ou›it and shows you know what’s current (deep wine and burgundy shades are the stars of the season), it puts those challenging oversized shapes in a fla›ering new light, as seen by the great look by Vogue at le›. Bold colours or pa›erns call for a more streamlined, o›en princess…

This beloved Spanish couturier and a long-›me favourite of the online sewing community (his blog, uniquedesignerpa›erns.blogspot.com.es was one of the first Spanish sewing blogs) is thrilled to bring his elegant tailoring to Vogue Pa›erns. It was his discovery of that pa›ern collec›on in the mid ‘80s that sparked his love of sewing in the first place - “By pure chance a friend brought me a copy of ‘Ves›dal’, a magazine that was published in Spain and that showcased Vogue models,” he recently recalled to Vogue Pa›erns Magazine. “I was surprised to see two dresses by big Paris designers photographed in it. I then found out that those pa›erns could be bought at a department store in the city.” He bought his first Vogue pa›ern (Vogue Individualist Issey Miyake 1476) and…

Velvet • VELVET is without a doubt, the favourite fabric of the season … and never makes more sense than it does at night, with its shimmering, plush texture. The fabric has long been associated with royalty, as in images of Queen Elizabeth I of England or Catherine the Great of Russia parading through their palaces in velvet finery, though modern velvet has never been easier to care for, as many kinds of mixed-material velvet (with rayon or viscose blended in, for example) actually can be hand washed and then tumble-dried to bring the pile back up and restore the so›ness. Even just a touch, as in a sharp tuxedo jacket, an ornate clutch or some richly coloured shoes adds instant glamour … but it never makes more of an…

Skinny It s›ll pays to be narrow minded about pants … terribly sleek and stretchy, but oh-so-wearable, the skinny-on pants cut on the slender side this season range from ultrafla›ering, city ma› black, to casual, laid-back neutrals, to the all-out raciness of stretch leather! Sleek, leg-defining seaming and contoured colour-blocking show off your gams to their best advantage (contrast ma› with marled textures for a sporty look. The seams in this style allow for customising fit). So› blouses or easy sweaters on top provide the essen›al balance to such a sleek silhoue›e below. The bottom line for Winter 2017: Skinny, wide or cropped! Wide Even though skinny pants shapes have dominated fashion for the last several years, it’s now wild about wide legs, which makes for a refreshing change. They’ve…

Most beaded and/or sequined fabrics are on a thin fabric base, usually silk or rayon. Before beginning your project, familiarize yourself with the proper›es of the base fabric. Pattern Suggestions Simple dresses, jackets, and tops. Simplicity is the rule as the fabric is going to be the star of this show in this look! Eliminate any design styles with mul›ple pa›ern pieces, darts, or small pieces such as collars and welt pockets. Having chosen a pa›ern, firstly make a test garment. A›er comple›ng your altera›ons, use the toile as your pa›ern, thread-tracing the s›tching lines on to the backing of your beaded/sequined fabric. TIP: If your outfit has a jacket, use the beaded/ sequined fabric for the front of the top only. Using a smooth fabric for the back of…

1. The faux fur group should always be styled into garments and accessories that have minimal seams, few design details, simple closures (or be›er yet, none at all) and a reasonable amount of wearing ease for ‘turn of cloth’. These fabrics do not lend themselves well to tailored designs or accessory pieces that require mul›ple seaming. 2. All faux fur has nap regardless of the length of the pile. The nap refers to the direction in which the pile will lie when stroked. The nap should run downwards to the hemline or lower edge of the item. Mark all your pattern pieces clearly with the ‘nap’ direction so cutting errors can be avoided. Draw the nap direction on the wrong side of your fabric using chalk or a…

The jumpsuit is generally completed with a single seam that runs horizontally around the figure. In some cases, the garment may not have a seam, but instead a strong designer detail midsec›on. Both of these details will influence the fit between the top and bo›om of the garment. The best way to assess what pa›ern altera›ons are required is to make a toile. For the most accurate results, use a fabric of similar type and weight to your fashion fabric. Pattern alterations – bodice Waist length When a garment has a fi›ed waistline, you will need to check the back waist length and then alter the pa›ern accordingly. Make sure that you allocate ‘wearing ease’ for waist length. The amount of ease required can be calculated by checking the pa›ern…