Innehållsförteckning för No. 24-12 från Australian Stitches

Welcome to another edition of Stitches! There have been some exciting changes since you were last here … your favourite magazine has just got bigger in pages! This means more techniques, more projects, more fashion, all rolled into every issue. We are right in the middle of winter, so Alison shares her construction techniques of a stunning Donna Karan Jacket – Vogue 1263 (turn to page 58). To warm things up, our little ray of sunshine – Eddi Frantz – has put together a Spring 2016 Preview. He also shows you a new clothing movement that is here to stay (I’m excited about this one!) – ATH-LEISURE! Turn to page 44 to find out more. I hope you all enjoy the sewing mix we have put together for you. Until…

THE BRIGHT SIDE … Colour will heat up next Spring, in a sizzling spectrum of hot hues ... and although fashion will go all out, you don’t always have to. A few carefully chosen ‘hits’ of colour (as in that bright jacket over neutral separates as shown at left), or in some electric accessories, can instantly energise an entire wardrobe in a flash! VOGUE V9176 WARDROBE GETTING SHIRTY … The shirtdress is a classic … it will be refreshed for Spring in crisp white and in an array of textures and fabrics, but won’t look clinical when warmed up with tawny, tan suede or leather. McCALL’S M7351 SHIRTDRESS SHOW SOME SKIN … Spring will answer a call to (bare!) arms with innovative tops that slash open over sun kissed skin,…

You know that it’s a fashion movement that won’t go away when the word is included in the 2016 unabridged version of Merriam-Webster’s Dictionary. The dictionary of record defines the look thus: “Casual clothing designed to be worn for both exercising and for general use.” But we’re not talking about leaving the house in what you wore to bed or gym-bunny aerobics gear-with-everything … simply put, this new movement in dressing combines the practical functionality of athletic sportswear with the easy comfort of the loungewear you wear at home, elevated with a slightly dressier edge so that you can wear it out on the town … or even out at night! In fact, you can mix-and-match elements of this kind of dressing to wear almost anywhere, anytime. It is seasonless,…

I had a client recently with a dress that had become tight at the thigh area. This was due to her new workout regime, which had added bulk to her thighs. See photo 1. Once we worked out the right length, she pointed out something very important to her. Because of her body shape, when a top is shortened, the back can be higher than the front. She prefers her tops to cover half of her bottom. Body shape will always play a major role in any garment alteration. When someone tells me they want something shortened by ‘X’ and are not prepared to have a fitting to show me what it looks like, I get concerned. Just like with this situation, shortening any garment the same amount all the…

THE ALL-SEASONS JUMPSUIT 6413: (Main image) Jumpsuit with V-neck and front zip, has sleeves in two lengths and tapered leg. Also in dress version in two lengths with optional belt. THE SOFT PRINTED BLOUSE 6414: (Right inset) Blouse with key-hole neckline features bishop sleeves and a sleeveless version in a longer tunic length. A V-neck variation with bell or short sleeves has contrast yoke. THE ASYMMETRICAL SKIRT 6418: (Above inset) Slim skirt has vertical and horizontal seam lines, with options for midi or mini length and symmetric or asymmetric hemlines. Use leather or micro suede in a soft shade for the ultimate transeasonal look. All styles this page - Misses’ seven sizes in one: 8 – 20. New Look patterns at www.simplicity.com…

Measurements are the foundation to any well fitting garment. To measure accurately and correctly minimises fitting problems and reduces the need for later alterations. As well as being the basis to pattern construction and pattern making, correct measurements are also a great reference for altering commercial patterns to obtain an individual fit. We all have figure faults, but they can be camouflaged successfully if the garment is perfectly balanced, and this can only be achieved with detailed and accurate measuring. Keep in mind it is the pattern that must be perfect, not your figure. To measure the body correctly, length (vertical) measurements are equally as important as width and circumference (around the body) measurements. They help to determine more precisely bust and waist placement on a pattern or pattern alteration,…

JUNE 4-JULY 15 The Kenniff Country Quilters will be holding the Annual Quilt Show at The Mitchell On Maranoa Gallery in Mitchell, Qld. Any completed article of patchwork or quilting using 75 per cent of a provided fat quarter no more than a metre in size is up for a chance of winning the Viewer’s Choice Award. Open: Monday- Friday 9am – 5pm and Saturday 9am – 12pm (closed between the hours of 12pm – 1pm for lunch). Entry: Free Enquiries: Call Mrs Patricia Kenafake on (07) 4623 1254 or email kenmyall@skymesh.com.au JUNE 11-12 The Spa Quilters from the Guild of Daylesford Inc will hold their quilt show on the Queen’s Birthday weekend at the School Hall, Daylesford Primary School, Vincent St, Daylesford, Vic. There will be a beautiful Garden…

Cutting Often it is hard to tell the right and wrong side of lace. Before laying out to cut, check the lace in natural lighting to see if there is any difference between one side and the other. Choose the side you prefer and make this as your right side. Mark the wrong side with Tailor’s tacks for ease during the construction. Most laces have a directional design so use the ‘With Nap’ cutting layout. Layout paper on the cutting table, then place the fabric on this, before laying out the pattern pieces. Use fabric weight instead of pins. If you need to pin, pin into the seam allowances only and use good quality ones; this will prevent damaging the threads of the lace. Cut through all layers of fabric,…

Requirements • Pattern: McCall’s M7253 or any other full skirt. NOTE: If working with the in-built embroidery designs of your machine, you are limited with how much they can be editing. So, for ease of embroidery, try to avoid full-circle skirts as you may not be able to follow the curve of the hemline. • Fabric – see pattern envelope for suggested fabric types and required metreage. • 20cm (8in) invisible zipper • Skirt hook and eye • General sewing equipment • Machine embroidery thread • Machine embroidery needle • Bobbinfil • Stabiliser (appropriate to your fabric). For this project water-soluble stabiliser is used to allow the skirt to fall in soft folds when completed. NOTE: If you are using a Dry-clean only fabric, do not use water-soluble stabiliser. •…

Be it on the school run, in the line for morning coffee, over a business lunch, or even out for drinks, soft, structure-less, aprés-gym style clothing is fast becoming the answer for almost every occasion … here’s a quick tipsheet on how to adapt it for your lifestyle •  IT’S ALL IN THE MIX: Pair a sporty bottom piece such as yoga leggings or track pants with a fancier top, such as a layered tank or a crisp button-down. •  ADD STRUCTURE: Finish with a trench or a blazer to pull your ensemble together. The longline leather-spliced vest at left is another perfect item to dress up that sporty jumpsuit or those track pants. •  STICK TO NEUTRALS: They are more sophisticated and versatile, whereas brights will make you look…

6725 PANTS (Above inset) With rolled up cuffs, lower-leg seam option and detachable waist-tie. For denim, cottons or corduroy. Women’s sizes: 32 – 42. 6908 SHIRT For cotton fabrics or poplin. Women’s sizes: 34 – 46. 6702 JUMPSUITS (Main image and bottom-right inset) Sleeve, drawstring waist and trim variations. For two-way stretch jerseys. Women’s sizes: 34 – 44. Burda Style patterns at www.simplicity.com…

PALE SKINS … Leather and suede will be the must-have textures next spring for clothes and accessories. In pale, dusky, ‘blushed’ pastels, they lighten up your look, and move into Spring easier than black ever could. VOGUE KATHRYN BRENNE V9120 BAG CROPPING UP … Pant hems are still on the rise, and even though it may not seems so at first glance, an easier, slightly looser leg is one of the kindest crops around, as well as being a directional shape for next season. NEW LOOK 6419 PANTS STRIPES! … They will be on the frontlines again for Spring, in new and interesting ways. Even the classic striped Breton top (the ultimate transeasonal item!) gets surprisingly slashed with traces of next Spring’s lace ... SIMPLICITY 8016 TOP GO GREEN ……

Open ended zippers are available in metal, chunky plastic, coiled and invisible. All types are available in various lengths and colours. Check the pattern envelope for the size required, but also check the length of the opening. It is easier to adjust the length of the opening rather than shortening a zipper. Mark the neckline seam line and the hem fold line on both front garment pieces. Unlined jacket • If working with a high stretch knit fabric, cut 2 x 1cm (3/8in) strips of iron-on interfacing. Place 3mm (1/8in) of the strip past the centre-front line into the garment area and the remainder into the seam allowance. See diagram 1. Iron interfacing in place. • Neaten the centre-front edges. • Separate the zipper and place right sides together with…

If you are new to sewing stretch fabrics or have never tried but want to learn, this is an article for you. We are often put off sewing this most versatile of fabrics, yet all we need to have is the appropriate patterns, needles and thread to do the job properly. Even then, we’re not sure if we should be sewing our garments on an overlocker, regular sewing machine or both. It just needs a little explanation to show how. Once you have perfected the appropriate techniques for this type of fabric, you will find out just how easy and enjoyable working with two-way stretch knits can be. Here are a few tips and techniques to get the best results. What is two-way stretch fabric? The stretch factor of a…

All Time Favourites... The long-line vest … The snappy striped jersey top … Flared jeans and slim shorts … All refreshed classics that are the solid building blocks of any wardrobe, and that will live on long after next spring. 8054 VEST & KNIT TOP: This lined vest pattern in 3 styles includes separate pattern pieces for B, C, D, DD cup sizes for the perfect fit. Vest in crepe, denim, linen types, Microsuede, pique, poplin, sateen, seersucker, or lightweight wool types. Knit top in interlock, jersey or spandex blends. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 24. 8056 ‘AMAZING FIT’ FLARED PANTS & SHORTS: Sew in chino, denim, poplin, sateen, stretch wovens, twill, and lightweight wool types. Misses’/Plus sizes: 10 - 28W. www.simplicity.com ...Spring Forward There’s no better way to feel excited…

A hemmer attachment works in conjunction with an ordinary straight-stitching foot. See photo 1. The rolling attachment clips onto the needle plate, see photo 2, then the work feeds into this attachment rolled and stitched into place evenly. See photo 3. Great for medium to heavy fabrics and there is no need to help the fabric roll inside this foot as the stitcher just simply guides it through! This particular guide is a 10mm ( 3/8 in) roller. The Adjustable Bias Binder is a wonderful tool that can be used with pre-folded bias tape from 6mm - 20mm ( 1/4 in -3/4 in). See photo 4. Simply adjust the screw on the right side of the bracket to set the width of the chosen bias tape and then feed the…

Fabric Considerations The pattern lists suitable fabrics as ‘Novelty Organza, Wool Crepe, Cloqué or Taffeta’. Since I was unsure what cloqué actually was, I looked it up and found the following description: “Translated from French (literally meaning ‘blistered’) Cloqué is sometimes referred to as Clox or Cloky. Cloqué fabric is compound or double fabric with a Jacquard effect. Produced by using yarns of different characters or twists and very often blended with silk/wool or silk/cotton.” A close look at the photographs of the garment would seem to show that this was the fabric used. See photo to left. The original jacket is unlined, except for the pocket and, apart from supporting the pocket opening, there is no interfacing in the jacket; I can only assume that cloqué has a lot…

V9161 MARCY TILTON: (Main image) Pullover top has neckband, raglan sleeves and stitched hem. Skirt (cut on crosswise grain) has elasticized waistband, right side pocket with casing and tie, tucks/pleats, yoke back, shaped hemline, bias hem facing, and invisible side zipper. Sew top in moderate stretch knits: jersey, lightweight Ponte or Interlock Twist Yarn knits. Sew skirt in silk or cotton jacquard, silk crepe or cotton shirting. V9153 MARCY TILTON: (Inset) Loose-fitting button-down shirt has collar variations, mock-front button band, side-front seam with casing, tie, buttoned mock-pocket, left-side darts (stitched on right side of fabric), shaped hemline, front longer than back, wrong side shows, and stitched bias hem facing. Sew in silk broadcloth linen, cotton shirting lawn, fine quilting cotton, wool challis. All styles this page - Misses’…

Vikki Macdonald From a very young age, there was no doubt in Vikki Macdonald’s mind about her career choice. Using scraps from garments made by her mother and grandmothers, Vikki would spend many hours designing and making dolls and soft toys, also using the scraps to make garments for her dolls. Vikki studied fashion at Mt Gravatt institute of TAFE, graduating in December 1993, with an Associate Diploma in Arts (Couture). In 1995, she established her own label, Stanzi, making couture bridal and formal wear. Her fashion business has grown from there, purchasing a local fabric store in 2005, to increase her services to include quality fashion fabrics and domestic patterns. Over the last year Vikki has begun to include sewing classes into her range of products and services. Some…