Innehållsförteckning för No 27-4 från Australian Stitches

Autumn 2015 sees an influx of blue – from baby blue to aqua to cobalt to light navy to midnight! And, at last, navy accessories are being developed to complement. Yes, navy shoes and handbags are back in the fashionable accessory stores. Martin & Savage has a collection of prints that go from mini geometrics and abstract spots through to wild abstracts! The fabrics we’ve used are mostly polyester knits. Some have a hint of spandex! All are perfect for travel wardrobes. And, can easily be sewn into shirts, shell tops, bias-cut skirts, wrap dresses, jumpsuits and pull-on wide-legged pants. Think Emma Peel from the Avengers and her figure contouring fashions and you’ve got the look! Yes, the seventies are back! Happy Sewing – David from M & S Fabrics!…

Once upon a time I could go through the pattern catalogues and select 7 – 10 patterns, make them up and it would see me through an entire season and into the next (even my children follow the Wardrobe Plan Rule – three bottoms, five – seven tops, plus a jacket and a dress). So what has changed and why has this wardrobe plan been such a challenge? Is it lifestyle, or is it age, is it a changing figure shape … or have I just lost ME somewhere along the way? I actually think it’s the latter! Like so many other working mothers, I spend most of my time either working or being a mother, and unfortunately ‘myself’ gets put at the bottom of the list of priorities. We…

Let’s start with the soft drape of fabrics. If you have a pattern that needs a fabric with soft drape it will be a pattern like Vogue V1302. The fabric suggestions could be silk chameuse, silk crepe de chine, or even stretch jersey. The best thing to do is take the piece of fabric you have found to a mirror and drape one corner up to your shoulder and see that it drapes over to the hip, like Vogue V1302, or the way the picture on the pattern drapes. Some fabrics that have a good drape are very light in weight, while others are still very soft but are much heavier in weight. The heavier fabric will drape much better. When you are working with a lightweight soft-drape fabric and…

FROM THE HOTTEST SCARLET ALL THE WAY DOWN TO A ROSY GLOW, IT’S THE PRIMARY SHADE OF THIS AND EVERY AUTUMN/WINTER … IT WARMS TO ANY NEUTRAL, POPS AGAINST BLACK OR BOLDLY STANDS ON ITS OWN, IN SEDUCTIVELY DRAPED AND WRAPPED SILHOUETTES THAT SOFTEN THE IMPACT.…

K4085 (main image): Pullover tunic has mock-wrap bodice and wrap peplum with uneven hemline, and elasticised waist. Also in sleeveless version. Sew in stretch knits only, with 35% stretch across the grain, such as interlock, jersey, textured knits. K4083 (top inset): Top has princess seams, peplum with stitched hem and centre-back zipper closure. Also with short sleeves and no contrast panels. Sew in cotton, silk, challis, charmeuse or rayon. K4084 (bottom inset): Pullover tunic (also in shorter top length) has contrast overlays that tie at the left side and option of a matching sleeve to the overlay. Sew in lightweight two-way stretch knits with 75% stretch, such as jersey. All styles this page: Misses’ sizes: XS-S-M-L-XL www.kwiksew.com…

KNITS on the rise Say the word ‘knits’ and run-of-the-mill chunky jumpers or boring sensible cardigans may come to mind ... and while a chunky cocoon-shaped sweater and (now not-so-boring) cardigan are actually at the top of fashion’s hit list this season, which we’ll look at in a future issue, the definition of knits has expanded beautifully to include the lightest, sleekest, and most feminine looks we’ve seen in years. They’re also some of the easiest to wear … such as in light jersey tunics or dresses that have all the ease of a t-shirt. They also add a dash of instant colour or print to your wardrobe as in the Kwik•Sew number in an on-trend geometric print on this page (see more easy tunics and tops on page 57),…

Although not a difficult garment to sew, attention to fit is essential. Commonly, the fitted bodice has a princess seam over the bust, a sleeveless armhole combined with a broad or open neckline, and a hemline finish near the high hip. While these features make the garment fashionable and flexible, they are also the same characteristics that can create fitting problems. A perfect garment can be achieved by adjusting the pattern for fit concerns in these areas. It is highly recommend a toile be created first so that problems can be identified and dealt with before the fashion fabric is cut. Styling The fitted bodice suits many figures as long as care and consideration are taken with a few basic details. First, fabric selection! Bright colours in shiny fabric will…

V1417: (main image) Pullover top has collar, bias front and back, no side seams, back neck slit with invisible back zipper, shaped hemline, cape attached at neckline and topstitching. Tapered pants (loose-fitting through hips) have waistband, front pleats, side front pockets, and back seam detail. Top/cape in two-way stretch knits: rayon/spandex or cotton/spandex. Pants in moderate stretch knits: Ponte knit or cotton knit. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22. V1409: (inset) Lined, partially bias dress has seam detail, stitched hem on unlined sleeves and invisible back zipper. For stretch velvet, lightweight jersey or Ponte knit, with contrast in two-way stretch knits, such as rayon/spandex or nylon/spandex. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22. voguepatterns…

The difference between a good outfit and a great one is often not the degree of expertise with which the garment was made but the ability to have selected a style which flatters the wearer. Many sewers are frustrated at having made outfits where the tailoring and fit has been faultless but the garment looked awful once on. While fit and finish will always be important, if a flattering style is not chosen initially, the end result will still be disappointing One of the most difficult areas to get right is the neckline. Acting as a focal point, a correctly selected neckline will frame the face, enhance the shoulder line, draw the eye upward and balance any figure challenges. To make the right neckline style decision is a matter of…

Nothing moves into autumn as easily as a great dress ... B6086 ‘Fast & Easy’: For gabardine, crepes, taffeta, or double knits. B6087: For crepes or jacquards. B6088: For gabardine, crepes, linens or faille. These above three patterns in Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22. B6090: For challis or crepes. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 24. B6091: For poplin, shirting, linen or tweeds. Misses’/ Misses’ Petite sizes: 8 – 24. www.butterick.com…

Navy and white always conjures up a nautical theme but what about using Navy in a more dramatic way by marrying it with silver, copper, gold or olive? Its rich sophistication contrasts so beautifully with these other dramatic colourways you will certainly stand out in the crowd and turn heads. Now isn’t that what we all want? Sckafs Fabrics will email you suggested pattern numbers plus a photo of any fabrics, trims, buttons and colour scheme on request. Imagine having friendly expert advice on hand to help you decide on your next inspirational sewing challenge. The possibilities are endless, just take time out and visit Sckafs Fabrics to make your dreams come true. 1. Beaded net 6306, polyester/nylon, colour: Navy/Silver, 105cm wide, $180m. 2. Dupion, 100% silk, colour: Navy, 112cm…

6266 SHIRT (above inset): Sleeveless, short- or long-sleeve lengths, in four versions. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 18. 6290 SKIRT: pattern also includes shorts and pants. Misses’ sizes: 4 – 16. 6287 SKIRT (main image): Four versions, in three different lengths. Misses’ sizes: 10 – 22. 6281 PULLOVER DRESS (lower right inset): Four versions, in two different lengths. Design can be with or without asymmetric tiers, or high-low hem. Misses’ sizes: 10 – 22. 6291 JUMPSUIT (above): Pattern includes similarly styled short romper and maxi-length or high-low dress. Misses’ sizes: 4 – 16. 6292 TUNIC TOP (above left inset): Sleeveless, three-quarter or long-sleeve lengths, optional shirttail hem and front pockets. Pattern also includes drawstring pants. Misses’ sizes: 10 – 22. 6285 KNIT TANK TOP (lower left inset): Fitted or straight versions,…

When shortening a gown there are a variety of hem choices, but certain hem types will work better on certain fabrics. Normally with clothing alterations you would repeat the original hem style, but sometimes this is not possible or a different method can be used to create a better finish. Judith now shares the techniques that she has successfully been using for the past 20 years in the industry to hem fabrics such as satin, chiffon and stretch knits. Satin and similar fabric Medium – heavyweight With the right side of the fabric facing, overlock the cut edge using a wide 3-thread overlock; this is achieved by removing the right needle. Note: Using a wide 3-thread overlocking stitch, with needle in left-hand position, for clothing alterations gives a more professional…

If your figure type is not well suited to this fashion look, move on and find something easier to deal with. If your figure is not symmetrical, remember that asymmetrical alterations will require a left and right pattern piece. Please check fabric layouts carefully. Choose fabric, colour and fashion details with care for maximum balance, staying away from stripes and obvious symmetrical prints if you are uneven. The fashion This type of fashion indicates a strongly fitted waistline, generally completed with a single seam that runs horizontally around the figure. See photo 1. In some cases, the garment may not have a seam, but instead a strong designer detail midsection, which will influence the fit between the top and bottom of the garment. See photo 2. The suitability of this…

Skyline S5 is the latest addition to the Janome range of computerised sewing machines. It has been designed for every type of sewing; hence there are three optional kits that are available for this exciting new model – one for quilting, another for home furnishings and a third for fashion sewing. The Skyline S5 has a 310mm long arm (12¼in) with 210mm (8¼in) right of the needle and an arm space of 120mm (4¾in) high … plenty of room to cope with those bigger projects. With a great range of 170 stitches including a choice of 10 styles of one-step buttonholes plus alphabet, the Skyline S5 offers creativity on every sewing project. Just flip up the top cover to be wowed by the 9mm-wide stitch choices available. Stitch quality is…

THE SWEATSHIRT UPGRADES TO SOPHISTICATED ‘STATEMENT’ STATUS – 1317: Cropped or full-length sweatshirts, with long or ¾ sleeves, can be made in a variety of knit fabrics with decorative contrast trim, studs, rhinestones and more, as shown here. It’s the perfect canvas for your creativity this season. Sized for stretch knits only, such as double knit, interlock, jersey, Ponte, stretch velvet, or two-way stretch, with contrast front and back also in cotton types, silky types, suede or satin. Misses' sizes: XXS – XXL (4 – 26). simplicity…

SERGE IT! 24 Fun & Fresh Projects to Sew with Your Serger By Jenny Doh & Cynthia Shaffer Looking for more to do with your overlocker? Go beyond the basic finished edge with these 24 fresh, modern and cute projects that unleash the creative potential of your overlocker. From a ruffle purse to cute puppets to fun fruit-themed trivets, each project is illustrated with ample how-to photos and step-by-step instructions to guide you. Whilst several of the projects also involve the sewing machine, most are made from start to finish on the overlocker. An informative basics section reviews the principles of properly threading an overlocker as well as its main functions and stitches. RRP: $24.99 ISBN: 978-1-4547-0780-6 Publisher: Lark QUILT COLOUR WORKSHOP – Creative Color Combinations for Quilters By Tacha…