Innehållsförteckning för No 28-2 från Australian Stitches

A PRINT DRESS We talked about the new ‘winterized’ prints and the fresh ways to wear them in our fashion overview for the season last issue … but there is no fresher way to wear print right now than in a fabulously flattering dress (we showed an always-right wrapdress in that overview, and here’s another terrific version by New Look at left). Likewise, a rich dark or neutral print refreshes such a stand-by dress style, to make it a great modern dress look for any age. Sticking to two or three colours for that print as we show here also makes it dressy enough to go easily from desk to dinner … and from right now all the way to early spring. Save all those multi-coloured brights for more casual…

There are pivotal moments in our lives; moments that we want to remember forever. And one of the most joyous, yet stressful, is a wedding. Judith has met many brides over the years, taking care of their wedding dress alterations. But, even when a dress has been purchased (or made) in advance, hanging in the wardrobe waiting for the special day, fate can throw you a curve ball. A few of my bride clients found themselves pregnant before the wedding, whilst other brides have called up frantic because the dress they ordered online is too small, “Even though I sent all my measurements!”. News flash – they do not MAKE a garment JUST FOR YOU. They take your measurements, and send a gown that is a close match. Hence it…

M7024 PALMER/PLETSCH: Semi-fitted lined jacket with collar variations, has French darts, in-seam pockets, side panels (contrast variation) two-piece sleeves and back-waist cording. Sew in wool blends, tweeds, poplin or crepes. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 24. M7023 ‘EASY’: Lined vest has side-back seams and collar/peplum/pocket variations. Sew in twill, sateen, wool blends or velveteen. Misses' sizes: 6 – 22. M7017 DESIGNER JOI: Top and skirt (two versions of each) and grosgrain belt. Top in poplin or sateen, skirt in wool blends; style shown with purchased rosette trim. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22. www.mccallpattern.com…

The shape of pants to come ... whether they’re fashionably cropped and printed, or classically tailored-to-a-T, they give any modern look legs. K4070: Pants have ›y front zipper, front and back waist darts, waistband with hook-and- eye closure and pockets in side seams. In cropped or full-length versions, as shown here. Designed for light- to medium-weight woven fabrics, such as brocade, linen, broadcloth, gabardine or stretch wovens. Misses’ sizes: XS – XL. www.kwiksew.com…

Taking trends from the runway is fun, but there’s deeper inspiration to be had ... every famous designer has special signatures that make them great, and most are signatures that you can also incorporate into your sewing to help you develop your very own! This is the ›rst in a series of articles – a look at the inspirational signatures of the world’s top designers ... The abrupt departure last year of Ralph Rucci from the namesake label he officially launched back in 1994 (even though his first showing was way back in 1981) was shocking to a fashion industry who thought of him as ‘America’s National Fashion Treasure’ and the closest thing the modern New York Fashion industry had to a genuine couturier. In 2002, Rucci was in fact…

B6109 LIFESTYLE WARDROBE: Fitted, above hip-length lined jacket has princess- seams, peplum, button front closing and long sleeves. Fitted sleeveless top or dress has front and back darts and back zipper. Dress is knee-length with ›ounce hem. Semi-fitted above-knee-length skirt has back zipper and slit. Straight legged pants have side pockets and mock ›y zipper. Designed for medium-weight woven fabrics, such as tweed or gabardine. Purchased knitwear. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22. www.butterick.com…

Early attempts to invent a machine for sewing were unsuccessful mainly because a hand-type needle with the eye in the thick end was used. In 1846, American Elias Howe created a needle with the eye different needles for industrial sewing machines. The needles at the point which lead to the first sewing machine featuring produced for domestic sewing machines would total less than a curved grooved needle with the eye in the point. Two years later John A. Bradshaw created a straight grooved needle with the eye at the point which set the future for sewing machines. Today's sewing machine needle is a precision instrument and the performance is only as good as the needle being used. A modern machine needle manufacturer produces over 10,000 different needles for industrial sewing…

1315: Pullover blouse with pleats at the neckline has optional sleeve lengths and trim at the sleeve cuff or on the hem. Sew in silky lightweight to medium-weight woven fabrics with drape such as challis, charmeuse, crepe de chine, double georgette, lightweight linen types or silky types. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22. 1323 SPORTSWEAR: Draped knit top in three versions has option of contrast band, pull-on knit pants and stylish ‘infinity’ scarf. Sized for stretch knits only, such as interlock, jersey, stretch velvet, or two-way stretch. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22. www.simplicity.com…

Why do we wear jeans so often? They are durable and usually comfortable for all activities, whether we are cleaning the house, doing the shopping or taking a daily walk with the dog. They are also an acceptable form of dress in many work places. Because no other item of clothing in our wardrobe provides as much comfort, style and versatility, they have become a way of life. Despite the variety of jeans available on the market, from expensive designer labels to the cheaper ones sold at the markets, it is still not easy to find a pair that fits and flatters every shape and size. Endless hours can be spent in those tiny change rooms putting on pair after pair of jeans, usually ending up purchasing nothing, or with…

Vogue V8972 ‘Easy Options’ This pattern really was an easy custom fit – taking advantage of the separate pattern pieces for the different bust-cup sizes and a multi-sized pattern resulted in a finished garment that fitted like a glove! With different sleeve and skirt options you can design your own look – try combining view C sleeve, bodice and waistband with view E/F skirt for a stunning ‘little black dress’ So, if you are looking for a new dress pattern, this is one to try. Before commencing, take accurate measurements to compare with the pattern. The finished garment widths for bust and waist are printed on the front pattern pieces. Measure and note your across-back and shoulder widths, shoulder-to-waist and waist-to-hem. If making view C also measure your upper-arm circumference.…

Jersey knit is known as single knit. It has a lengthwise stretch making it suitable for dresses, tops and lingerie. Double knits are firm. They have only moderate stretch which makes them suitable for jackets, suits and pants. Interlock knit has a fine rib and a very soft feel. This fabric is suited to active wear such as T-shirts. Sweatshirt fleece has very little stretch and a soft fluffy underside. It adapts to a wide range of clothing such as sweatshirts and tracksuits. Two-way stretch has a percentage of spandex fibre making it suitable for leotards, swimwear and gym clothes. When purchasing knit fabric for a pattern, check the fabric against the gauge on the back of the pattern. If the knit has more or less stretch than is required,…

Knit fabrics can be our best friend when sewing. They’re usually comfortable, easy care, and forgiving. You can generally get away with a less-than-perfect fit because they conform to your body. You love designing your own clothes from your ‘body blueprint’, as called in the Sure-Fit Designs™ fitting system, but now you want to design and sew using knit fabrics. You know you’ll need to reduce your personal sloper size which is designed for woven fabric, but how much ease should you remove to compensate for the stretch of the knit? What an excellent question? In reply to this, a number of factors need to be taken into consideration. What’s the stretch factor of the knit you’re working with? How well does it recover (return to its original shape) after…

Most women are aware of their individual figure challenges, but are completely in the dark when it comes to vertical proportions. They may have a vague idea that they are high waisted or short legged, but the only accurate way to be sure is to be measured. Realising the importance of your vertical and horizontal proportions, neck length, shoulder type, bone structure, prominent features and weight and age will help you determine which styles are best for you. Drawing attention away from unflattering aspects of our figures can be done by creating an optical illusion with carefully chosen pattern styles and fabrics. In each of our wardrobes, most of us have a combination of clothes and accessories we have made, and items we have bought. However, women who sew their…

6301 MOCK WRAP KNIT DRESS: ‘Just 4 Knits’ dress has slim or ›ared skirt, several sleeve options and a tie worn front or back. Sized for stretch knits only: interlock, jacquard, jersey, single knit or spandex blends. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 20. 6302 SLEEVELESS DRESS AND JACKET: A-line dress has bust darts, contrast trim at neckline/armholes, and neckline with bow trim. Princess-seamed cropped jacket also in a longer variation with contrast bands at cuffs and hem as shown here. Sew in brocade, cotton types, crepe, crepe back satin, damask, dupioni, shantung, jacquards, linen types, pique, sateen, stretch wovens, taffeta, Ponte, tweed, wool types. Dress also in silky types. Jacket contrast also in leather-like fabrics. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 20. New Look patterns at www.simplicity.com…

The all-in-one facing replaces separate facings at the neck and armhole. Neat and flat, it is frequently used on expensive ready-to-wear because it has less bulk than two separate facings. Some dressmakers consider it challenging, but it is actually quite easy when you know the tricks of the trade. This facing technique does not require an opening at the front or back, and, although it can be used when the shoulder widths are as narrow as 5cm (2in), it is easier when they are wider. FABRIC: When planning the design, light- to medium-weight materials such as linen, crepe de chine, sand-washed silk, Liberty's Tana Lawn, chambray, blouse-weight polyesters, and microfibre silkies are excellent choices. Fabrics such as denim, raw silk, butcher linen, and shantung can also be finished in this…

THE FASHION DOODLE BOOK – scribble, draw, sketch, imagine, create & nourish your creative talents By Annabel & Violette Bénilan An ultra-funky book packed with fabulous fashion illustrations! Every page offers doodlers and artists the chance to get creative and colour in, decorate or doodle on. The unfinished illustrations help you to hone your skills in fashion drawing and design. Features dress design, hairstyling, accessories, customizing tattoos and makeup, inventing motifs and decorations, creating posters, landscapes, paper dolls and a whole lot more! RRP: $19.99 ISBN: 978-14463-0454-9 Publisher: David & Charles BLOOMING CROCHET HATS – 10 crochet designs with 10 mix-and-match accents By Shauna-Lee Graham of Bouquet Beanies Crochet a colourful hat with mix-and-match blooms! In Blooming Crochet Hats, you’ll find a posy of patterns! Each of the ten hats…

Since I have started to teach brand new sewers again I have started a list in my head of things every fresh sewer should know. I thought I would share it with you too: 1. Money is no object. Let’s get that one out of the way right now. OK your grandmother turned collars, and your mother made your party dresses to save money, but they were essentially sewing because they had to. That was then, this is now. You could be fully clothed even if you didn’t sew, and depending on your standards, could do it for not much money. Women who take up sewing these days do it for the fun of it and the joy of having something that fits an actual human being with well-proportioned body…