Innehållsförteckning för No 28-3 från Australian Stitches

Denim gets a re-boot As we mentioned last issue, denim is zooming to the top of the fashion fabric stash this spring ... yes, it’s always been around, but the news is in how it’s now used, and it’s definitely not just restricted to your casual jeans. Denim is now taken out of that rough-and-tumble context, to appear as a slick, city-wise jacket, as in the nautical-flavoured knockout from Vogue above, or even as easy drawstring pants, as in the very on-trend chambray pair at left … but there are lots of other possibilities that we’ll look at in upcoming issues. Black & White is bigger than ever Why is black and white always such a great pairing when it comes to fashion? Yes, it is definitely a classic in…

Everyone has a different shape, and even though 10 women might wear a size 12, undressed they will all look different in their proportion. With some figures (and some designs) it is very easy to find the balance of the garment, but everyone has had a garment that needs adjusting – it may slip off the shoulders, the neckline rides to the back, or front for that matter. It’s about getting the overall balance right so it sits well on the body. In all the years Martyn’s been fitting garments he knows what to look for and how to fix the overall balance of a garment/pattern. He now shares this knowledge with you … Being a patternmaker, I’ve never really had the need to use many commercial patterns. Whenever a…

An A-line skirt has stood the test of time, and is only fashion defined by the length of the hem. To give this basic design a little twist, an overskirt is attached, all created from your original pattern. No need to run out and spend more money on patterns, you have all you need with your one original good fitting straight skirt pattern. This design is meant for a crisper fabric such as wool, linen, gabardine or denim. The design profile is a gentle A-line that gives a lovely silhouette for any figure type, but adding a twist with the overskirt standing minimally away from the body to add a balance of colour from the underskirt. The dip in the front of the overskirt confuses the eye, as does the…

B6171: Pullover tunic has sleeve and hemline variations, and very narrow hem. Sleeves and hemline can be tied or buttoned. Other detail variations include mock-sleeve bands, pockets, drawstrings on sleeves or sides extending into tie ends. For gauze, cotton or linen. Misses’ sizes: XS (4-6) – XXL (24-26). B6172: Loose-fitting, pullover top or tunic has sleeve, layered panel and shaped hemline variations, wrong side shows. For challis, georgette, or linen. Misses’ sizes: 6- 22 B6176 ‘FAST & EASY’: Very loose-fitting, unlined kimono has front, trim, pocket and hemline variations and narrow hem. For lightweight woven and stable knit fabrics such as polyester georgette, cotton lace, peach skin, satin, challis or sweater knit. Misses’ sizes: XS (4-6) – XXL (24-26). www.butterick.com…

EVERYDAY LACE – simple, sophisticated knitted garments By Heather Zoppetti Learn how to knit lace patterns meant for everyday life. Knitters love lace patterns and want to add lace to their wardrobe in pretty yet non-fussy ways. In this collection of 18 garments and accessories, using lace motifs for edging is only the beginning. Author Heather Zoppetti shows how to knit lace into feminine garments meant for daily wear: as a simple panel insert, as edgings and bands, and in an increasingly all-over manner. Simple shaping and construction are the rule here, letting lace take centre stage. The projects feature thoughtful construction such as linen-stitch bands to prevent awkward stretching and shoulder slippage, mock cables to play up a raglan shoulder, and reversible stitch patterns on garments that show both…

Pattern Very Easy Vogue V8962 views B and D Pant Use the recommended fabric of two-way stretch knit fabric such as Ponti knits or cotton/polyester spandex. To ascertain the correct crotch and pant length, tie a piece of elastic or string around your natural waist line, wiggle a little until it sits comfortably, and then take the following measurements: Front crotch, Back crotch, Waist to hem (wearing the shoes you will wear with the pant). Check these measurements against the pattern to determine the amount of length alterations required, and then add or subtract where needed. NOTE: If you prefer a pant that sits below the natural waistline, place a piece of elastic or string around the section of the torso you are comfortable with and take the same measurements…

TEXTURED WHITE Even the trickiest trends are a cinch to wear if you add a dose of reality to them! For example, nothing says ‘warm weather’ more than white, and it appeared in almost every designer collection that mattered, but it can look too stark, clinical and cold, not to mention draining to all but the richest of complexions … ‘Warm’ all that white up with texture, and lots of it! Add a lacy yoke and sleeves to that floaty white blouse (the freshest thing to throw over jeans this spring!) and don’t even think of donning a white dress without softening it up with airy textured cottons, eyelet, or broderie anglais. The white dress is a star item of the season and can look so fresh and summery ……

It seems that most articles on fit address the issue of a large bust but forget about the smaller-busted female. The main reason is the pattern will fit around a small bust but does not fit around a large bust. Although the pattern fits the smaller bust – it is unlikely that it will fit properly. While it is not mandatory that the pattern be adjusted for the A to AA bust cup, it certainly will improve upon the final look of the garment. This is of particular importance in a design that has a tight to semi-fitted bodice region. Determining bust adjustment In general, one can compare the differences between the full bust and high bust to determine if a person has a small bust cup. The high bust…

A ‘spring coat’ may sound old-fashioned, or not even particularly useful (who needs to cover up in warmer weather?) … but in bold ›orals or graphic black and white, these modern toppers are the freshest idea to throw over any spring look! K4104: Lined jacket-length coats, with no front closures, have darts, waist seam on the front and three-quarter length sleeves. The inset style shown has front welt pockets, while the main image style has contrast collar, sleeve bands, lower bands and pockets at side seams. Designed for cotton types, broadcloth, linen, sateen. Misses’ sizes: XS–S–M–L–XL. kwiksew…

Fabric characteristics Denim, by definition, is a twill weave fabric woven with yarn-dyed threads (yarns that were dyed before weaving). Classic denim is woven with a warp-faced twill so that the dark-coloured warp yarns are visible on the face of the fabric while the undyed (white) filling yarns are visible on the fabric back. The warp face twill weave is one of the reasons that denim is so rugged and wears well. Today the term ‘denim’ is used to describe many fabrics which are indigo coloured or have the look of denim. The traditional all-cotton fabrics are frequently blended with polyester, nylon, silk, rayon, Tencel and spandex. Denim is easy to clean and does not wrinkle badly. It can be washed or dry-cleaned. When washed, many classic denims shrink, fade…

1161: (main image) Mini dress/tunic with ‘cold shoulder’ and trim options. Also includes top, mini dress or tunic with a lace or mesh back panel. Misses’ sizes: XS – XL. 1162: (both insets) Blouse with keyhole neckline and sleeve, length and trim variations, such as cap, ›utter or three-quarter sleeves or drawstring tie waist. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22. www.simplicity.com…

M7084: Dress has collar and front bands, princess-seams, fitted bodice and skirt variations, and narrow hem. Sew in chambray, sateen, poplin, cotton blends. Misses' sizes: 6 – 22. M7085 ‘EASY’: Semi-fitted, lined dress (fitted through the bust area) has neckline variations and back zipper. Sew in cotton blends, wool blends, crepes, gabardine. Misses'/Miss Petite sizes: 6 – 22. M7093: Semi-fitted, pullover top or tunic have front seam detail, hemline variations and narrow hem. Sew in crepe de chine, charmeuse, chiffon, georgette. Misses' sizes: 6 – 22. M7097: Skirt has length variations, elasticized waist, godets and narrow hem. Sew in voile, cotton blends, gauze, crepe de chine. Misses' sizes: 6 – 22. www.mccallpattern.com…

Georgette and chiffon – the mere mention of these names makes the most sensible home sewer start pulling out their hair. Novices to intermediate sewers alike view these fine materials with nothing short of fear. While we cannot dispel all the fears surrounding these free-›owing textiles, we can offer some valuable information that may help you progress through this sewing project with some degree of confidence. What is the difference between chiffon and georgette? Georgette is a heavier version of a chiffon-like fabric, which uses crepe yarns to create a fabric with a fine texture, matt finish and natural movement. Styling In order that sewing difficulties are reduced, the first order of business is choosing a style that is suitable to the fabric then choosing a project measuring up to…

6342: (main image) Sleeveless or short sleeve dress. Sleeveless dress with over-bodice and trim options. Short-sleeve dress with over-bodice shown here. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 20. 6343: (inset) Sleeveless knit tunic with length variations have the option of half sleeves, or contrast long sleeves. Pattern also includes cropped top. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 18. New Look patterns at www.simplicity.com…

styleARC is an online clothing pattern business with an industry base. We started the business in early 2010. Like many plans, it all started one Saturday morning over coffee with a couple of colleagues from the rag trade. We were chatting about home sewing and the sorts of patterns that were available. After some research we noticed there was a gap in the market for ready-to-wear patterns. With our years of industry experience creating patterns for leading fashion brands, we thought it was time to do our own thing, and so we created styleARC. Our design team is always on the lookout for emerging trends and new styles. We pride ourselves on bringing those trends to the home sewist with up-to-the-minute patterns that are not overly complex. With our background…

Armscye is a term used by bespoke tailors in Savile Row (where the finest tailoring is produced) to describe the armhole itself and has developed from the words ‘arm’s eye’. Try saying these words slowly and armscye becomes self-explanatory. So with a little knowledge we understand the terminology used in text books and articles more easily. Scye is a word used by dressmakers and fashion designers to describe a measurement taken ‘through’ the arm, from shoulder to underarm. This measurement is easily explained with the use of an armless dressmaker’s dummy and a heavy black line drawn on the calico cover. ‘But what is the use of it?’ I hear you all chorus. Let us explain. When constructing a basic block (an almost forgotten art), the depth of the armhole…

‘Nuts and bolts’ checklist See photo 1. Use the following list as a quick reference guide for your overlocker: You may choose to go through the list each time you sew or perhaps at a longer interval such as once a fortnight or month to ensure your sewing is problem free. QUALITY NEEDLES, THREADS – because your overlocker stitches at up to speeds of 1700 stitches per minute (spm) compared to a sewing machine at around 800spm, friction with your needles and threads will create lint and fluff. Using both good quality needles and threads reduces the likelihood of friction. Change your overlocker needles after about six continuous hours of sewing or with each new project. Discard old needles in a rigid container such as an empty tablet bottle. OILING…