Innehållsförteckning för No 30-1 från Australian Stitches

Latest Pattern Trends B6221 ‘FAST & EASY’ LIFESTYLE WARDROBE: Very loose-fitting top and dress have neckline variations and optional topstitching. Wide-legged shorts and tapered pants (very loose-fitting through hips) have front waistband and pleats, side pockets and elasticised back. All have narrow hems. For lightweight woven fabrics such as challis, rayons, chambray or broadcloth. Misses’ sizes: XS (4-6) – XXL (24-26). www.butterick.com…

A straight-up-and-down-shape instantly turns into a great figure eight with the help of structure, gathering and ruching, as shown in this glamourous vintage-inspired design by Butterick’s ‘Patterns By Gertie’. In fact, all those elegant retro touches from the 1940s and ‘50s such as structured bustier tops, ruffles, side-ruching around the waist and hips, bold floral or polka dot patterns and high-waisted bottoms with lots of coverage (especially if you’re long-waisted) are not only the height of swim fashion again, but they are also perfect for you, so why not encourage those curves by channelling your inner Hollywood goddess? (another benefit − most of these styles offer lots of support and coverage, so are great for any age!). What to avoid: Bust minimising strapless or square-necked tops, low-slung hipster bottoms, vertical…

Most sleeve plackets have a single pattern piece. However, this pattern has a concealed button placket in the centre front so two pattern pieces are provided; one for the right hand side (including the concealed buttonholes) and one for the left hand side. While it is important to support the fabric when buttonholes and buttons are involved, with four layers in the right hand side placket, the choice of interfacing is very important. I have used a very lightweight woven fusible lawn which gives support without adding additional bulk. However, even with using this light interfacing, the method shown in the pattern instructions results in multiple layers at the bottom of the placket making even a very fine fabric rather bulky. Construction Extend the length of the right placket at…

V1444 DKNY: (top inset) Lined dress has shoulder straps, closefitting bodice with diagonal front darts, left front seam, applied side and back bands, bias waistband, semi-fitted, darted skirt, and invisible back zipper. Bodice back, and skirt darts are stitched on the right side of fabric. Sew in poplin, broadcloth, lightweight denim, with contrast in crepe de chine or charmeuse. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22. V1445 PAMELLA ROLAND: (main image) Loose-fitting, lined dress has raised neckline, seam detail, no side seams, shaped hemline, and exposed back zipper. Sew in stretch faille, crepe or Ponte knit. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22. V1446 REBECCA TAYLOR: (bottom insets) Self-lined dress (close-fitting through bust) has shoulder straps, guide for tucks, back, back inset and lower bands, side pockets, and invisible back zip. Sew in batiste,…

1142 ’IT’S SO EASY’ JUMPSUIT: (top and middle inset) Jumpsuit can be made long with V-neck in front and back, or short as a romper with keyhole and tie. Sew in batiks, chambray, cotton types, soft lightweight linen types, silky types or jersey. 1143 ’IT’S SO EASY’ DRESS: (main image and bottom inset) Knit tank dress can be made maxi-length, or long high/low length, as shown. Sized for stretch knits only: interlock, jersey, spandex blends or stretch velvet. All styles this page Misses’ sizes XS (6-8) – XL (22-24). www.simplicity.com…

The news in hot weather dressing: Vibrantly printed layered tank tops and maxi-dresses with an asymmetrical edge … pyjama-easy patterned pants dressed up with the subtle shimmer of silky metallics on top … ‘70s ethnic tunics banded in brights … Burda Style patterns at www.simplicity.com…

• Finish the chosen placket opening on the sleeve and stitch the seam line together. • Gather or pleat the lower edge as per the pattern instructions. • Interface one section of the cuff and place right side down on a table. • Place the sleeve right side up and pin to the cuff. Stitch in place. See diagram 1. Note: The cuff and sleeve will be very curved but in the diagrams we have illustrated them less curved for clarity. • Roll the sleeve in a corkscrew so that it cannot get caught in any stitching. Take the second layer of the cuff and place it right side down over the sleeve and interfaced cuff. Pin around three sides, leaving open the end where the buttons will be stitched.…

FITTING PROBLEMS Patterns are made by using a standard ‘B’ cup model. The fitting problems start to show when the pattern has been developed for a ‘B’ or ‘C’ cup design − this is most patterns (unfortunately, it is too costly to make patterns for all cup sizes). If you are larger than a ‘C’ cup, the design will automatically show extra gapping in the armhole area. This creates a major fitting problem because when this gapping is pinched out of the armhole area, the pattern is distorted in the armhole and the shoulder areas, causing problems in the sleeve and shoulder fit. As patterns are made, the bust fitting dart is fitted, along with the shoulder, armhole and side seam. The size of the bust cup creates the size…

Here are a few tips to construction: • Check the bodice length and adjust if necessary – the elastic should sit on the natural waistline and there should be approximately 2.5 – 3cm (1 – 1¼in) blousing. Too much blousing will cause views A and B neckline to sit too low, and views C and D will gape at the front neckline. • Check the back width, although not a fitted garment, if the back is too wide the garment won’t sit correctly. • Not confident with showing so much leg – extend the front skirt wrap. • Use a knit, iron-on interfacing in the neck edges to prevent stretching during the hemming process. • If using a sewing machine for construction, stretch the seams slightly as you sew or…

While the general rule of thumb is to follow a designer’s purpose, thoughtful pre-planning allows you to replace suggested wovens with knit options*. Knits are beneficial in a number of ways. Most importantly, knit fabric has built-in stretch which reduces fit concerns experienced in close-fitting designs. The majority of knits are easy to sew and require little, if any, seam finishing. The nature of knits also eliminates the need for tricky construction techniques, can minimise the need for support layers (interfacing and lining) and fabric stretch replaces the need for bias-cut grainlines. Additionally, quality knits provide weight and drape equivalent to finely woven cloth cut on the bias. This latter feature of knits has important cost-saving benefits. It means bias-cut pattern pieces can be placed on the traditional straight grain,…

K4101: (main image) Sleeveless pullover tops have front princess seams, back yoke and uneven hemlines, with contrast panelling and neckline variations. For lightweight to medium-weight knits and woven fabrics, such as jersey, cotton types, voile or gauze. K4102: (insets) Button front top/tunic has extended shoulders, V-shaped neckband, shirring on skirt at waistline, and front and back shoulder yokes with bodice pleats. Longer tunic has tie back belt. Designed for lightweight to medium-weight woven fabrics, such as crepe de chine, challis, voile, cotton types. All styles this page, Misses’ sizes: XS-S-M-L-XL. www.kwiksew.com…

6373: (main image) Easy pattern includes long jumpsuit and drop-waist dress with thick straps, short romper and slip dress with thin straps. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 20. 6379: (bottom insets) Pattern includes straight or handkerchief maxi-skirts that can convert into dresses. Pattern also includes short handkerchief skirt, and wide leg pants. All pieces use knit yoke. Misses’ sizes: XS – XL. 6381: (top inset) This Easy Just 4 Knits bottoms pattern includes maxi-skirt, high/low skirt, wide leg pants, and shorts. All are pull-on with elastic waistband. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 20. New Look patterns at www.simplicity.com…

Sewing level: Advanced Figure shapes: Triangle, Inverted Triangle and Hour Glass Pattern description: Pleated, self-lined dress (close-fitting through bust) has topstitched shoulder straps, back inset and lower bands, side pockets, and invisible back zipper. Pleating guide provided. Fabrics: Batiste, voile, crepe de chine. Contrast: Lightweight twill, poplin, crepe back satin. Unsuitable for obvious diagonals. MISSES’ sizes: A (6-8-10), D (12-14-16). Fitting It is essential that the pattern be fitted with a toile before touching your fashion fabric. Tip: The toile should be constructed from a fabric that has the same weight and drape as the lining and contrast fabrics of the dress; anything different produce an incorrect fit in the finished garment. Check the finished bust and waist measurements on the Front Guide pattern piece against your own personal measurements…

M7168 ‘CREATE IT!’: Lined swimsuits have elasticised bra top and bottom variations. Create your own design with mix and match pattern pieces. Misses' sizes: 6 – 22. M7164 ‘EASY’: Wide-legged pants (also shorts) in four variations, Designed for medium-weight wovens and knits. Misses' sizes: XS (4-6) – XXL (24-26). M7171 TOTE BAG in four variations, and designed for cotton/cotton blends. www.mccallpattern.com…

For me, the concern was whether the back of the dress would cover my bra straps? I could simply go for a strapless bra, but certain cup sizes are better suited to the support provided from a conventional bra. I am also allergic to the latex used in strapless bras to hold them in place against the body. Pattern change • Measure from the side seam of your bra to the inside edge of the back strap position. • Take the back pattern pieces (#1 and #3) and overlap the top with the skirt. Measure from the side seam of the pattern across the top of the back skirt and mark the bra strap position + 6mm (¼in); in this instance 13cm (5in). See photo 1. Although the amount doesn’t…