Innehållsförteckning för No 30-2 från Australian Stitches

In viewing all the designer fashion collections here and overseas these past few years, we were struck by the number of coats, knits and even leather and suede in a great many Spring/Summer ranges, while the Autumn/Winter offerings had a lot of imsy little tops and dresses that wouldn’t keep anybody warm. Yes, there are still ‘seasons’ in fashion, but as Burberry’s Christopher Bailey noted, “social media now gives everyone ‘an instant global view,’ and that people no longer care about boundaries or seasons in a world that is half-hot and half-cold all year-round.” For life off the designer runway, that means that there are always great pieces that can be added to anybody’s wardrobe, year round (and now they are often printed rather than plain!) On these pages are…

SUMMER A LONG PRINT DRESS OR SKIRT “My knees disappeared during my rst pregnancy, so I now know to keep away from short lengths ...” noted one mother-to-be for the second time. A long, easy dress or skirt is now a summer mainstay, now boldly printed in ‘70s retro zig-zag patterns or graphic tribal prints. They’re also great if you’re expecting, as long as you keep a few pointers in mind: “Empire is your best friend,” offered another expectant mother, especially with a loose dress style such as the Butterick pattern on this page (hiding under the model’s arms, the waist tie just under the bust creates some definition around the upper torso area and saves your silhouette from getting too ‘blocky’). Another terrific option with transeasonal versatility is in…

You have taken detailed body measurements to ensure a perfect fit from your commercial pattern, but what do you do with them? Follow these clear instructions on using those measurements to check and, if necessary, adjust your pattern to your individual size. Depending on which part of the pattern you are checking you need to add the minimum ease to the body measurement before you begin working, this is especially important for the bust, waist, hip, abdomen and upper arm measurements. Remember that the measurements you take are often full circumference and the pattern you are checking is usually only a half pattern, so the measurement plus ease will need to be halved. Length measurements don't need to be altered, simply checked against the pattern at the correct position. Essential…

There are two ways to determine where the top of the sleeve should sit on the shoulder: 1. Raise the sleeve up onto the shoulder and pin the sleeve to the correct position. 2. Place pins all the way around the edge of the shoulder.See photo 1. If you choose to pin the sleeve up onto the shoulder, once the garment is on the work table, slide pins into the fabric at the edge of the folded section, and release the pins holding the sleeve up onto the shoulder. This will leave you with the same scenario as the second option. Pins will show the new position for the sleeve to rest on the shoulder. One of my mantras is: “we are all carpenters of fabric, and like all good…

M7156: Dress (close-fitting through bust), has shoulder straps, princess-seams and invisible back zipper. Pattern also includes wide-legged romper and jumpsuit. Designed for lightweight to medium-weight wovens. Misses'/Miss Petite sizes: 6 – 22. M7160 ‘EASY’: Dress has close-fitting bodice, elasticized waist, grain line and skirt variations, side pockets, and narrow hem. Style shown with self-belt. For medium-weight moderate stretch knits, such as jerseys, cotton knit, or interlock. Misses'/Miss Petite sizes: 6 – 22.…

1108 ‘easy-to-sew’: Kimono pattern features styles for every occasion, and includes draped kimono in short or long lengths with contrast bands, straight floor-length kimono, and short kimono with or without trim. Sew in challis, crepe back satin, crepe de chine, double georgette, lightweight linen types, silky types, jersey. Some versions also in lace or novelty sheers. Misses’ sizes XXS (4) – XXL (26). www.simplicity.com…

Slash and Press This is the most common method for balancing darts. It can be used on lined and unlined garments. It works better for larger darts. 1. Stitch the dart and knot the threads at the dart point. 2. Wrong side up, press the dart flat 3. Slash the centre of the dart to the point. 4. To prevent ravelling, overcast the edges of the dart by hand. 5. Wrong side up, place the dart on a pressing pad or ham and press. See diagram 1. Centre and Press This method is a good choice for unlined garments because the dart is flat and there are no raw edges. 1. Stitch the dart and knot the thread ends. 2. Before pressing, centre the dart over the stitched line. Pin…

Ever since Lana could hold a pencil she drew fashions. This love of fashion graduated into a love of paper dolls and all their beautiful clothing. By Lana’s teenage years her collection of fashion magazines included every American Vogue magazine, as well as the big issues from Paris, Rome and London. Local auctions and rummage sales became a passion and where she would bid on vintage clothing, old lace and textiles, and sewing patterns! The collection grew and the story begins … It was soon after finishing university and getting married that I seriously started to collect vintage patterns − my husband and I owned an Art and Antiques Gallery. Whilst actively purchasing stock for the gallery, I found myself constantly asking if there were any old sewing patterns. My…

www.voguepatterns.mccall.com V9117 ‘FIVE EASY PIECES’ WARDROBE: Semi-fitted, unlined cardigan has single-layer band extending to back and side slits. Pullover top is closefitting. Bias, pullover dress (fitted through bust) has facings and shaped hemline, wrong side shows. Skirt and tapered pants have elasticized waist. Sew in moderate stretch knits, such as lightweight sweater knits, jersey or cotton knit. Dress, skirt and pants also in lightweight linen, crepe, georgette or challis. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22.…

Fitting pants involves fitting the contours of the body such as the crotch curve and thighs. For this reason and for more accuracy we used a toile for this garment instead of using the tissue-fit method. We measured the hip and checked this against the finished garment measurement marked on the front pattern piece to determine the pattern size to work with. Before cutting the toile, make any obvious adjustments such as leg length, crotch length and depth, waist and hip as determined by personal body measurements compared to those of the pattern. Check the crotch depth by sitting on a flat chair and measuring from the natural waist to the top of the chair surface. At the side seam, measure from the waist to the crotch line marked on…

Kerryn’s Fabric World was sold in April 2015. Selling the store took me from a 6 day a week fabric retailer to a semiretired, smart casually dressed person working from home or travelling to run workshops. I have been planning semi-retirement for the last few years, all the time thinking and planning my new wardrobe needs. Semi-retirement all change when diagnosed with ‘Hereditary Spastic Paraplegia’, a condition that will mean a disability lifestyle and full retirement … much sooner than planned. For now, I am travelling more and teaching my Colour and Image Classes along the way. In the meantime, let’s look at what makes or breaks a wardrobe and how to make yours suitable for you in all the right ways. Remember … your wardrobe has to work for…

B6218 KATHERINE TILTON: Loose-fitting, pullover top in four variations (three shown here) has mock side front band with button trim, side slits, back seam detail, right side back slit, grain line variations, shaped back hemline, wrong side shows, narrow hem and stitched hem on sleeves. Designed for moderate stretch knits only, such as jersey or French terry. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 24. www.butterick.com…

Although lingerie guards are an old stand-by, their importance is sometimes overlooked. Frequently used to control the straps of undergarments so they do not show or fall off the shoulder, lingerie guards are also useful tools to control the neckline and shoulder areas to prevent the garment from shifting and sliding and the neckline from gaping. They can be made of thread, ribbon, or narrow silk tubes. Garments with narrow shoulder straps can have guards at the corners of the neckline or where the straps join the bodice on the front and back as well as at the top of the shoulders. Lingerie guards are usually located at the shoulders, but they can be placed at any strategic location. See photos 1 and 2. To facilitate dressing, the snap is…

Pattern: Megan Nielsen MN1001 AMBER/Simplicity 1469 The instant download version of this pattern is available from http://megannielsen.com/ This garment was made to the pattern.The pattern instruction sheet recommends using your pre-pregnancy bust measurement for size selection – this created a very firm fit around the entire bust circumference. Before cutting, check the finished garment width. The lower edge of the modesty panel was overlocked rather than the recommended turning, which would cause a ridge over the bust. If your knit fabric rolls at the edges, light spray with starch and press flat from the wrong side. For the second look, the modesty panel was used to create the new front pattern. Lie the cross-over front pattern on your work table and place the modesty panel over the top. Fold out…

This is such a simple pattern change, even a beginner can achieve the pattern modification and achieve the look. Pattern: Vogue V9115 view B Sleeve pattern changes Reduce the sleeve length from the cutting line to bracelet length (approximately 10cm [4in] above the wrist bone. NOTE: Working for the cutting line keeps the original 1.5cm ( 5 / 8 in) hem allowance, which now becomes the new seam allowance. Construction • Interface the cuffs with a suitable weight iron-on interfacing. • Stitch the seams and press open. • Construct the jacket as per the pattern instructions • With right sides together, and matching the sleeve seams, stitch the cuffs to the sleeves. • Neaten the seam edges and understitch to secure in place. •…

6371: (Main image) Easy drop-waist trapeze dresses include short sleeve or sleeveless dress with scoop neck, and flutter sleeve or sleeveless dress with uneven hem and deep scoop neckline. Misses’ sizes: 10 – 22. 6346: (Top inset) Easy, flared full skirt pattern includes midi length or mini skirt with button front closure, and knee length or mini length skirt with back zipper. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 20. 6340: (Bottom inset) Easy dress pattern featuring trapeze shaped swing dresses can be sleeveless with notched neck and pockets, scoop neck, or scoop neck and shark bite hem. Dress can also have V-neck with half sleeves. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 20. New Look patterns at www.simplicity.com…

Regular Feature Veronica began her journey when she decided to study Madame Weigel’s work by PhD, enrolling at Queensland College of Art, Griffith University. Six years later she graduated with Academic Excellence (a thesis unchanged by the examiners), amassing a huge volume of material. Not one to rest on her laurels, Veronica decided to continue the journey and self-published her book which was launched at the ASG convention in early October last year. So who was Madame Weigel? Madame Weigel was the first manufacturer of paper patterns for sewing in Australasia, and the first to publish a fashion journal, Weigel’s Journal of Fashion. Having arrived in Melbourne in 1877, she set up her business quickly: by 1878, she had opened her shops in Melbourne and Sydney, and started her agency…