Innehållsförteckning för No 32 -1 från Australian Stitches

Let’s start with the news, from one of the world’s top designers. Even though shorter, just-above-the-knee lengths still reign, you’ll notice an easier, slightly more relaxed shape to coats now, all the better to show off a bold blanket check, as in Isaac Mizrahi’s perfect peacoat update on the facing page (a designer long known for his witty, upbeat interpretations of coat classics!). It signals everything that’s happening in coats now, with its slightly oversized, but not exaggerated shape and its uncommon versatility, where it can just as easily play casual over jeans or leggings as it dresses up over dark stockings and pumps, as shown here. A definite star of the season, but because of its simple, clean shape and classic check pattern, a coat that will still be…

In a fashion year of outstanding outerwear, the jacket is now anything but a boring old blazer. They now top any look for day, night, work or weekend and the range of style options have never been more exciting! One of the top contenders for jacket style of the year (along with the revamped biker style we showed last issue) is the bomber or baseball jacket. Its sleek-but-sporty attitude fits in perfectly with current fashion, but what’s more, it’s a versatile blank canvas on which you can express your own individual style in so many ways − indeed, many international designers have done just that, smothering this one-time athletic trophy in precious satins and brocades, lavish beading and embroideries, bold patterns and witty textural mixes, such as ladylike tweed with…

Even though we may show them on the pages of the magazine worn by younger models, no matter what your age there are patterns that will work for your figure shape and personal style, they have a real diversity! To prove the point, I asked my eldest daughter, Laura, to select the patterns for a mix ‘n’ match wardrobe – 3-4 bottoms, 4-5 tops, 2 jackets, a dress and a coat. Separately, I did the same thing. Even with a 25 year age gap, we ended up choosing almost the same patterns. The best thing − I now only need to purchase one lot of patterns and trace off our appropriate sizes and make the necessary pattern alterations for our individual figure shapes and height. Now comes the challenge of…

V9137 VOGUE BASIC DESIGN COAT: Three variations and lengths, includes belt. Sew in lightweight woollens, melton, fleece, corduroy. V9136 VERY EASY VOGUE COAT: Loose-fitting, unlined coat with pocket and length options, in medium-weight woollens, fleece or gabardine. V9133 VERY EASY VOGUE COAT: Three versions with collar and pocket variations. Sew in tweed, fleece, Ponte knit or crepe. All styles this page: Misses’ sizes XS(4-6) − XXL(24-26). www.voguepatterns.com…

Technically Speaking Gowns of any style can be difficult to alter, particularly when they have multiple layers, or made from fabrics that require extra care. Sequined fabric can be a headache for a number of reasons. First and foremost is the fact that almost all gown hems are not even. When fabric has been threaded with sequins the drop will be lower in some places and higher in others. When I talk to my clients about the length, the first thing I do is talk about the ‘weight’ of the fabric. Naturally the fabric is heavier than most. What this means is that when the gown is shortened the weight is reduced. That has repercussions for the length. Have you ever shortened a gown only to find that it seems…

6416 ‘EASY’: Draped-front outerwear in four variations including coat with tie belt shown, longer jacket with fringe trim and bracelet-length sleeves, shorter jacket with long sleeves, or long vest. Sew in lightweight melton, boucle, lightweight linen types, microsuede, suede or suede like fabrics, lightweight wool types, double knit, Ponte or lightweight fleece. 6417: Draped jacket in two lengths and four variations is asymmetric with cowl neck when worn closed, or a cascade collar when worn open. Sew in lightweight melton, lightweight wool types, double faced fleece, double knit, Ponte or lightweight fleece. All styles this page - Misses’ sizes: XS(6-8) − XL(22-24). New Look patterns at www.simplicity.com…

JEWEL LOOM INSPIRATIONS – quick and fun beading and jewelry projects By Julianna C. Avelar How will the Jewel Loom inspire you? Create fun, easy beaded bracelets, necklaces, earrings and more with the versatile Jewel Loom! Jewel Loom creator Julianna Avelar fills you in on the basics of beading on a loom, then shares fifteen of her favourite Jewel Loom projects in easy-to-follow tutorials. Get creative with silk ribbon, fringe and leather cording then experiment with beads of varying colours and shapes − the jewellery projects in this book push the boundaries of traditional beading loom designs. Make something that fits your unique style! An inspiration gallery, featuring a beaded denim jacket, a fringed lampshade and more, offers ideas on how to use the Jewel Loom for more than just…

The great benefit of a well-fitting pattern is that design elements can be added to change the look each time it is used. Alison’s current favourite pants pattern is Butterick 6028 by Katharine Tilton. Alison shares with you a clever idea of adding a band to the hem. While there is lots of scope with pants to make your own changes at the waist and hip areas with the addition of pockets and yokes, as well as through widening and narrowing the legs, the finish at the hem is also great place to add design interest. Check the lengthen/shorten lines are in the same position on the back and front pattern pieces. Trace from these lines to the desired finished length. See photos 1a and 1b. These pieces are used…

B6257 LIFESTYLE WARDROBE: Semi-fitted, lined jacket has darted neckline (stitched on right side of fabric), shoulder pads, two-piece sleeves, and concealed front snap closing. Semi-fitted dress (fitted through bust) has side-front and side-back seams. Semi-fitted skirt has back vent. Sew in suiting fabrics or crepes, dress in faille, crepe de chine or challis. Misses’/Misses’ Petite sizes: 6 – 22. www.butterick.com…

Latest Pattern Trends M7290 NANCY ZIEMAN: (Main image & bottom inset) Loose-fitting, unlined vest and jackets (wrong side shows) have front extending into collar, princess seams, and shaped front pockets and hemline, with seam finishing variations. Designed for medium-weight moderate stretch knits, such as fleece, sweatshirt fleece, jerseys, cotton knits, interlock or sweater knits. M7291 LEARN TO SEW FOR FUN: (Top inset) Loose-fitting, unlined capelet in two variations (pattern also includes a vest and tie belt) have collar, princess seams, and narrow hem. Designed for medium-weight woven fabrics or firm knits, such as tweeds, boiled wool, synthetic leather, synthetic suede, Ponté or fleece. All styles this page -Misses' sizes: XS (4-6) – XXL (24-26). www.mccallpattern.com…

Burda Style patterns at www.simplicity.com…

1015 THREADS MAGAZINE COLLECTION: Lined coat or jacket in three versions (two shown here) featuring a separate button-out lining. Sew in brocade, corduroy, denim, leather-like fabrics, microsuede, pique, suede-like fabrics, tweed, wool types, Ponte, scuba knit. Button-out lining in single face or double face pre-quilted fabrics. The version in the main image can be made in water-proof rainwear fabrics for those rainy days. Misses’/Miss Petite sizes 6 – 24. www.simplicity.com…

K4139: Semi-fitted jacket has bust and shoulder darts, full-length sleeves, and front extends to form collar. Also has overlapped and conventional seams. Overlapped seam method requires non-fraying fabric because raw edges are not finished. All outside edges are left raw. Designed for faux shearling, boiled wool, or fleece. Pattern also has a shorter version for different fabrics. K4141: Unlined jacket with shawl collar and no closure, has front princess seams, cuffs, faced pockets, with lapped and conventional seams. All outside edges are raw, finished with straight or decorative topstitching. Another version has a hooded shawl collar. Designed for stretch knits only with 25% stretch across the grain, such as fleece, sweatshirt fleece, interlock and novelty knits. All styles this page: Misses’ sizes: XS-S-M-L-XL. www.kwiksew.com…

A hand-picked zipper is a hallmark of a finely-made garment – and Susan promises, once you try setting in a zipper by hand, you’ll be both amazed at how easy it is, and thrilled with your results. You’ll fall in love with the technique, and my guess is that hand-installed zippers will find their way into many future sewing projects. Hand-picked zippers can be applied in two ways: one in which the two edges of the fabric abut on top of the zipper, and the other in which the zipper is slightly recessed, hidden by a fold of fabric. Susan will explain how to do both. Centred Application Begin by carefully hand-basting the seamlines – both the vertical edges and the top edge (either the top of the garment or…

Every day women (and men!) take up the time-honoured pursuit of sewing. With the steady beat of the sewing machine, the fabric softly slipping under fingertips and endless fashion possibilities, what is there not to love? Sadly, many give the pastime up because it becomes more of a frustration than a relaxation, a burden instead of a pleasure. Fear not! It’s all about progression – you can’t run before you learn to walk! Start with a sewing project for beginners, and work your way up. We thought it might be useful to highlight those of our styles better suited to beginners. Deciding what to sew is the first and most crucial step to achieving success in sewing. For absolute beginners, start out by picking the easiest sewing projects. A shrug…

If you have looked at the latest pattern books, you will have noticed the return of many retro patterns with interesting and varied design lines. This means a return to the princess line with an extended sleeve, under arm gusset effects and acutely angled joins. These garments fit superbly and allow the arms to move with comfort. The extended sleeve is attractive and provides a flattering armhole and shoulder line. Unfortunately, the corner of these pivot points has been notorious for terrifying many a dressmaker, but if you follow this advice, you shouldn’t have any further dilemma. This type of princess line provides a great fit so it is worth the effort to master the technique required. The acuteness of the angle will vary, depending on the design. The execution…