Innehållsförteckning för Summer 2016 från Bake from Scratch

THERE’S NOTHING MORE EXCITING than summer’s bounty at the farmers’ market—containers of vibrant berries and fragrant stone fruit bound for butter-flaked piecrusts. The sweet smell of peaches always reminds me of summer nights spent at my grandmother Mimi’s table peeling their soft skin and slicing them for milkshakes, pies, and cobblers. Our Georgia Peach Pie on page 84 will transport you to the Southern nights I experienced as a child. Speaking of pie, hand-pie maven Lisa Donovan shares her recipes on page 61. You’ve probably never thought about using black pepper and cream in your apple filling, but believe us when we tell you these hand pies are life changing. Lisa’s family has been using this recipe for more than 130 years, and you’ll know why after one bite. As…

THESE RICH LEMON BARS, SWEET WITH A POTENT CITRUS ZING, ARE ONE OF JOANNE CHANG’S SIGNATURE TREATS. IF YOU CAN’T GET TO HER BAKE SHOPS, HERE’S THE RECIPE TO MAKE THEM AT HOME. Makes 9 1 cup (224 grams) unsalted butter 6 tablespoons (75 grams) granulated sugar 2 tablespoons (15 grams) confectioners’ sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 large egg yolk 1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose flour 1 cup (120 grams) cake flour ½ teaspoon (3 grams) baking powder ½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt Super Lemon Curd (recipe follows) 1. Using a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment or mixing by hand with a wooden spoon or an electric hand mixer, beat butter, granulated sugar, and confectioners’ sugar at medium speed until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.…

 Cheryl and Griffith Day like to keep it old school—she was once a dancer on Soul Train and he was a former player in a funk and R&B band. The couple opened Back in the Day Bakery in central Savannah’s Starland District in 2002, and have since reinvigorated homespun, Southern-style baking by putting their own flair on time-honored comfort food. “America has a history of making things by hand, and a great pride in doing so,” Griffith says. “That’s been kind of lost, and people really want something made with honesty and pride. I think people are hungry for that.” Visiting Back in the Day Bakery, set in a former gas station, is like stepping into a pastel kaleidoscope of sweets. The display case overflows with chocolate chip cookies,…

the cookies CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES Makes about 24 This is our idea of the quintessential chocolate chip cookie. Rolling the dough between sheets of parchment and stamping out rounds after baking results in perfectly round cookies, just right for making beautiful ice cream sandwiches. ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (130 grams) unsalted butter, softened 2 cups (440 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar 1/3 cup (62 grams) granulated sugar 2 large eggs 7 tablespoons heavy whipping cream 1 teaspoon (5 grams) vanilla bean paste 4 cups (560 grams) all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon (6 grams) baking soda 1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt 2 cups semisweet chocolate morsels 1. Preheat oven to 350°. 2. In a large bowl, beat butter and sugars with a mixer at medium speed until fluffy. Add…

Planning a road trip this summer? Here are four spots across the country to get a taste of regional specialties. Washington Cherry Pie Beck’s Harvest House Country Kitchen Colbert, Washington Pie made with cherries harvested from the surrounding orchard at this U-Pick farm and café, with a view of Mount Spokane greenblufffarms.com Maine Blueberry Pie Moody’s Diner Waldoboro, Maine The sort of local institution—open since 1927—where you tuck into a booth, order a slice of homemade pie, and your server is destined to call you “hon” moodysdiner.com Georgia Peach Pie Greenwood’s on Green Street Roswell, Georgia Towering slices of flaky pie overflowing with ripe Georgia peaches; one of the area’s first Main Street-style joints to embrace farm-to-table back in 1986 greenwoodsongreenstreet.com California Plum Pie Gjusta Venice, California A sprawling bakery-café-hangout…

WHAT IT IS Old-fashioned doughnuts are basically cake doughnuts that have been fried. This gives them a slightly crunchy outer shell that’s usually lacquered with glaze or dusted with sugar. The inside tends to be less dense than the cake of your typical powdered doughnut and less airy than a Krispy Kreme-style glazed. The slightly irregular ring is often marked with indentations that create petal-like wedges. WHY WE LOVE IT Fried. Cake. This classic doughnut style is making a comeback thanks to the glorious combo of its sugary crunch, doughy bite, and throwback dose of nostalgia. The fact that super smart pastry mavens are offering brilliant new flavors is just the glaze on top. WHERE TO FIND IT We Have Doughnuts Birmingham, Alabama These doughnuts are made by a group…

PAUL CALVERT Paul Calvert has worked in restaurants and bars since he was 15. A graduate of The College of Charleston and Georgia State University with degrees in English Literature from both, Paul worked as a teacher in Boston for years. In 2010, Paul moved back to Atlanta to open the Sound Table, which was named one of the Best Bars in the South by Imbibe magazine. In 2012, Paul became Beverage Director for local hangout Victory Sandwich Bar and then managing partner of Paper Plane, which was recognized by Esquire, Garden & Gun, and CNN as one of the best bars in America. In 2015, Paul and his partners opened Ticonderoga Club. Paul believes in Atlanta and the amazing hospitality community that thrives there. It’s Just Not Summer Without:…

For Atlanta food lovers, Sarah O’Brien and Paul Calvert are the power couple to know. Sarah is the mastermind behind The Little Tart Bakeshop (littletartatl.com), a pastry lover’s dreamland for pitch-perfect kouign amanns, fruit tarts that just ooze the goodness of the season, and cookies galore. Paul has been a driving force behind Atlanta’s rejuvenated—and constantly growing—cocktail culture. Recently, he teamed up with fellow Atlanta barman Greg Best to open the sultry Ticonderoga Club (ticonderogaclub.com) in the new Krog Street Market. We asked the couple to come up with the cocktail hour bite and sip they’re excited to dive into this summer. Your summer patio parties will thank us. SARAH O’BRIEN’S PARMESAN SABLÉS Makes 24 After a day of baking and tasting sweets at the bakery, I often come home…

1969 An 8-year-old Cheryl begins spending summers in Tuscaloosa, Alabama, with her grandmother, who teaches her how to bake. “My mom was adamant about making sure I knew about her Southern roots, and those roots ended up being the thing that Griff and I decided we wanted to hone in on when opening the bakery,” Cheryl says. 1973 Griffith learns to bake from his mother in Minneapolis, Minnesota. 1983 Griffith and Cheryl meet through mutual friends while attending separate colleges in the Midwest. Cheryl attended Griffith’s band The Attitude’s shows. “I guess that makes me a groupie,” Cheryl says. 1999 The pair reconnects in Savannah after spending more than a decade apart—Griffith working as a professional musician and Cheryl as a personal shopper. august 1, 2002 The duo launches Back…

The Grain Pioneer ALICE MEDRICH Author and blogger | Berkeley, California Flavor Flours: A New Way to Bake with Teff, Buckwheat, Sorghum, Other Whole & Ancient Grains, Nuts & Non-Wheat Flours alicemedrich.com Pastry chef and teacher Alice Medrich popularized the chocolate truffle in the U.S.in the mid-1970s, and was one of the first people to sell cake by the slice. In her tenth cookbook, Flavor Flours: A New Way to Bake with Teff, Buckwheat, Sorghum, Other Whole & Ancient Grains, Nuts & Non-Wheat Flours (Artisan Books), Alice offers a collection of gluten-free recipes that feature non-wheat varieties of flour as the hero ingredient. Flavor Flours breaks the mold in gluten-free baking by celebrating non-traditional flours, where many before her simply used them to fill the gap left by wheat. “There…

OUR FAVORITE PIECRUST Makes 2 (9-inch) piecrusts This crust is flaky, tender, and performs like a champ. Use the highest quality butter you can find for the best outcome. Need butter suggestions? See From the Pantry ( page 32 ). 2¾ cups (415 grams) all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar 2 teaspoons (12 grams) kosher salt 1 cup (230 grams) cold unsalted butter, cubed 10 to 14 tablespoons ice water 1. In the work bowl of a food processor, place flour, sugar, and salt; pulse to combine. Add butter, and pulse until mixture is crumbly. Add ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, just until dough comes together. 2. Divide dough in half, and shape each half into a disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at…

A BREAD-BASKET CLASSIC , these rolls originated at Boston’s Parker House Hotel in the 1870s and were a staple throughout the 19th century. As time went on, people began making these super-rich buttery rolls at home. If your grandmother made bread, she likely made Parker House Rolls. But that’s not to say they all looked the same. Some people created circular pockets, others tended toward a more angular bill-fold style. And some stuck to a more basic round roll. But no matter the shape, they all shared the same basic dough and were built on piles of butter. To this day, it’s hard to beat the feathery lightness of a tender Parker House Roll. PARKER HOUSE ROLL DOUGH Makes about 50 pocket rolls, 32 square rolls, or 25 round rolls…

Even though SoCal darling Christine Moore gained a loyal following for her candy confections (chewy sea salt caramels and handmade marshmallows), it’s the baked goods that steal the show in the weathered brick dining room of Little Flower Candy Co., her neighborhood café on the western edge of Pasadena. From dense chocolate bouchons garnished with Maldon sea salt to scones made with dried lavender buds and honey, Christine’s creations showcase French influence with a refreshing Southern California twist. She teamed up with Little Flower’s head baker Cecilia Leung, Christine’s right hand woman, to chronicle Little Flower’s beloved baking recipes in Little Flower Baking (Prospect Park Books), released in April 2016. We sat down with both of them to talk about their passion for pastry, what home bakers want above all…

Joanne Chang on Math + Baking Page 15 Photos courtesy Kristin Teig and Keller & Keller Photography. Never-Ending Nostalgia Pages 23-24 Photos excerpted from The Back in the Day Bakery Cookbook by Cheryl Day and Griffith Day (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2012. Photo by Squire Fox. Pages 25-28 Photos courtesy of Griffith Day and Cheryl Day and excerpted from Back in the Day Bakery Made with Love by Cheryl Day and Griffith Day (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2015. Photo by Angie Mosier. 2016 Baker’s Dozen Page 35 Photo excerpted from Flavor Flours by Alice Medrich (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2014. Photo by Leigh Beisch. Page 36 Photos courtesy Ashleigh Amoroso for The Urban Poser; Drop Kitchen Inc. Page 37 Photos courtesy Molly Yeh for My Name is Yeh; Layo Mayoli…

It’s hard to imagine the Boston area without Flour Bakery. For more than a decade now, Flour has been where people turn for bite-size coconut cream tartlets, sweet lemon bars with a citrus zing, and overstuffed turkey and cranberry chutney sandwiches on thick-cut homemade bread. Joanne Chang is the force behind every detail of Flour. She opened the original Flour Bakery & Café in the city’s South End neighborhood 15 years ago, using all of her savings plus loans from family and friends to get the place off the ground. She got up at 2 a.m. every day to do all the baking herself. Since then, she’s opened three more locations of Flour, written three cookbooks, and been nominated for two different James Beard Foundation Awards, for Outstanding Baker and…

When I was growing up, butter definitely signified good times: The low-fat, low-cal 90s were heavy on margarine in my parents’ house, but special occasions and holidays called for the real deal. Thanksgiving was a riot of full-fat sweet cream butter—in the mashed potatoes, under the turkey skin, and best of all, in the piecrusts. When it comes to baking, butter can play many roles. It’s a fat, obviously, that along with flour forms the texture of doughs and batters. In piecrusts, butter is responsible for the flakiness. In chocolate chip cookies, butter teams up with brown sugar to add chew. Once you get into more advanced pastries, butter is used in laminated doughs—that is, dough that’s layered with butter and rolled thin before baking. Lamination is what gives croissants…

LISA DONOVAN IS THE UNDISPUTED HAND PIE QUEEN OF THE SOUTH. Though she’s worked in restaurants and kitchens since she was seventeen—including Nashville’s esteemed City House—it was her time at Husk restaurant and her friendship with chef Sean Brock that cemented her role as a translator of historic foods and arbiter of the modern Southern palate. Her and Sean’s joint passion for storytelling through the plate helped evolve her now trademark style of serving old recipes in new and thoughtful ways. She’s one of the reasons you see fine dining restaurants throughout the region ending meals with old-school pies and church supper-style cakes. The hand pies featured here combine traditional recipes with Lisa’s deft approach to layering flavor to create what we think of as palm-sized bites of heaven. HAND…

It’s no secret that Americans are competitive. Whether it’s football, air guitar, or eating, there’s an event where the gladiators of the field can vie for the title. It’s so serious, there’s even a group called Major League Eating that sanctions competitive eating events across the country. From big profile eat-offs to small town jamborees, here are some of the best spots to watch someone end up with pie on their face. 7 MAY Daffest Sarnac Lake, New York daffest.com 14 MAY Pokez Vintage and Antique Fair Winston Salem, North Carolina hootsflea.com 21-22 MAY California Strawberry Festival Oxnard, California strawberry-fest.org 17 JUNE Rotary Car Show Bountiful, Utah bountifulrotary.com 25 JUNE Rulfs Orchard Strawberry Festival Peru, New York rulfsorchard.com 25 JUNE Columbia Station Homecoming Festival Columbia Station, Ohio columbiastation.com/homecomingfestival.html 4 JULY…

I often get quizzical looks when people hear that sauce is my favorite food. And when it’s followed up with the fact that birthday cake is my second favorite, they think I’m ridiculous. But facts are facts, and there are few things in life that make me happier than a perfect piece of yellow birthday cake covered with white buttercream frosting and confetti sprinkles. Growing up in the ‘80s meant plenty of birthday parties at the roller rink. I would skate my heart out while anticipating the moment the lights dimmed and the glow from the corner signaled the time had come. With crossed fingers I silently prayed the birthday boy or girl’s parents weren’t rolling out a cart of cupcakes. A glimpse of the grand sheet cake always resulted…

The smell of a homemade rum cake is intoxicating. And depending on how long it has soaked in spirits, you can almost take that literally. Whether the simple pound cake is fully immersed or lightly sprinkled with rum, that distinct flavor makes this island staple shine. The exact story of how the Bermudian rum cake came to be is elusive. One theory is that its development is linked to the Caribbean “black cakes” that were derived from steamed puddings traditionally made for the holiday season. In these cakes, dried fruit is soaked in rum for months and added to the dough, and the final product is similar to a fruit cake. The concept of a dessert soaked in rum may have come from hard biscuits being dipped in the rum…