There’s more than just wild yeast in sourdough—there’s wild spirit. Unsurprisingly, this particular loaf has been intrinsic to the American pioneer identity. California gold prospectors carried their starters in their backpacks, traveling from camp to camp with their magical “sponge,” as they called it, the base for biscuits, flapjacks, and, yes, bread. The first American settlers in the Alaskan Klondike region knew that sourdough starter was the only leaven to be had within 1,000 miles. Then came the commercial bakery boom of the 20th century, and naturally leavened bread faded into obscurity. Luckily for bakers everywhere, the artisan bread boom—championed by the likes of Tartine in San Francisco, California—has led to a modern-day sourdough renaissance.
Distinguished by a dramatic open crumb, chewy golden crust, and signature tangy flavor, sourdough is…