Innehållsförteckning för April 2018 från BBC Gardeners' World

Made for nature Every size garden can support a space for wildlife, as our square metre project on p57 shows. Find out more about growing for wildlife in Monty’s video series at bit.ly/GW-wildlife Potted know-how Containers are the ideal way to ring the changes in your garden, whatever its size. Get them right every time by following our quick video guides, at gardenersworld.com/choosing-pots Creative Containers To inspire you to create great pots for every season, we’ve gathered 100 pot recipes in a 132-page special edition, Creative Containers. Only £7.99 incl P&P at magsdirect.co.uk/gwcontainer18/ New for Facebook Would you like to chat with like-minded gardeners, share photos of your plants, or solve problems in your garden? Join our new Facebook community group! Our promise to you... Every month we bring you…

From the forests of China and Korea, Iran and southern Europe comes this appealing and increasingly popular group of low, spring-flowering hardy perennials. Essential ingredients of any shady garden, they mingle well with other early flowers to form an enchanting spring tapestry. Their intriguing spidery flowers may look delicate, but these plants are tough – some will even thrive in dry shade. A few epimediums are evergreen, producing a carpet of overlapping, weed-smothering leaves on wiry stems, but most die back in autumn to a steadily spreading crown. Colourful emerging foliage can be smoky, coppery or bronze – perhaps even with salmon tones. And then there are the flowers, which are like strings of dainty monkeys swinging from the arching or upright stems. The colours range from white through pastel…

What can gardeners and compost makers do to achieve the Government’s commitment to halt its use by 2020? “Gardeners in the UK used three billion litres of peat last year” Those who think there isn’t wilderness left in Britain haven’t visited Munsary Peatlands, Plantlife’s 3,000-acre reserve in Caithness. Munsary is a vast, undulating plain under huge skies. There are sleet storms in June and walking on it is like wading through porridge but it’s worth it for its beauty and wildlife: carpets of colourful mosses and cotton grasses dotted with bog asphodel, marsh violets, cuckooflowers, sundews and common butterwort. These wild plants support butterflies, dragonflies and birds, including snipes and skylarks. Peatland also reduces flood risk, cleans drinking water and stores vast amounts of carbon. According to the International Union…

Over the years I’ve worked in many gardens with clay-based soil – London is full of them! It’s often seen as problematic – sticky, wet and cold in winter and rock-hard in summer, all of which are difficult to grow plants in. And yes, it may take plenty of graft to get it into decent shape initially (by digging it over, and adding lots of organic matter and drainage material), but it can also be the basis of a very useful, nutrient-rich soil. The good news is there’s a huge range of plants that will thrive in clay soil, including roses, shrubs such as hydrangeas, viburnums and dogwoods, and hard-working perennials like Japanese anemones, brunnera and pulmonarias – but I have only five to play with in my border. As…

Make this the year to get the most from every single inch of your garden. Whether you’ve got a small courtyard, a lone windowsill or a forgotten corner in a larger plot, every space can be used to grow beautiful plants. And that’s what GW TV’s Every Space Counts campaign is all about – maximising the potential for all areas of your garden, highlighting how even the tiniest area can be a green oasis. Launched at the start of the new series, the programme is showcasing five of the nation’s best small spaces, and you’ll get a chance to cast a vote to choose your favourite. The winner will be announced on the special BBC Gardeners’ World Live programme on Friday, 15 June. Eagerly awaited hour-long episodes start this month,…

With buds bursting into growth across much of the UK, you need to finish pruning summer-flowering shrubs and perennials as soon as possible. In April’s longer, warmer days, growth can get going quickly. In the far south and west of the UK, roses and many other shrubs may already have 10cm of new growth. Where this is the case, be careful if you still need to cut back the old stems – use the tips of your secateurs to get in close to the base of new shoots without knocking them off. Meanwhile, spring-flowering shrubs can be pruned once their display is over. Cut the oldest, woody, flowered stems right down to the base. Remove the thinnest, weakest stems too, but leave last season’s strongest branches, which should be healthy…

The star of April is undoubtedly the tulip. For a few weeks they are as vivid and triumphantly colourful as anything else all year. I regard them as one of the great seasonal floral feasts for any gardener’s eyes. Early flowerers, late flowerers, parrots, lily-flowered, triumphs, viridifloras and species – I love them all. Their uprightness and the way the colours sing out makes them adaptable and perfect companions for a whole range of plants, from shrubs to herbaceous perennials. If you intend to keep the bulbs to flower next year, then it is a good idea to deadhead all the blooms when the petals start to fall. The best way to do this is to snap off the whole flowerhead from the stem, which should be left in place…

1 Clear weeds from the site before raking the area level. Tamp it down evenly, dress with a general fertiliser and rake again to create a fine surface tilth. 2 Mark out square metre areas then, following the instructions on the seed packet, measure and sow evenly in small quantities across the area. 3 If no rain is forecast, water in the seed by applying a fine spray of water. Stand on a board if you need to reach further than you can from the edge. 4 Stop birds from grazing on the seed and pin netting just above the whole area to stop cats, dogs or foxes from digging the freshly cultivated soil.…

For a natural display in beds and borders, seed can be scattered or sown in short rows, or in blocks dotted across the bed to give impact. If you want to cut the flowers for use indoors, sowing them in rows will make it easier to pick them. Growing flowers in rows also helps you easily spot any weed seedlings and you can hoe between the rows to keep the weeds down. Keep an eye on plants if the weather is dry and water well. 1 Prepare your spot ready for sowing by removing weeds, forking over the soil and raking it to a fine crumbly tilth. 2 Mark out shallow rows and sow seed thinly 20cm apart. Cover lightly with soil, firm and keep moist and weed free. 3…

Harvest the last winter chard Chard is hardy and provides a good supply of fresh leaves all winter, helping to bridge the ‘hungry gap’ when pickings on the vegetable plot are meagre. However, the plants will soon run to seed now that spring is here, so pick all the remaining leaves. Harvest from the outside first, and cut the stems as low down as possible. TOP TIP Plan your rows of veg before sowing, to ensure you get the spacing right and leave enough room between the plants for hoeing. Use a taught string line as a sowing guide to keep your rows straight, plus a tape measure or marked piece of cardboard so you get the spacing between the rows correct. Caring for seedlings Prick out young seedlings into…

Plant seed potatoes in bags now for a good harvest that takes up barely any space at all. Grown this way, the plants need lots of water and rich compost, but in return they should produce a large crop with virtually no slug damage. Earth them up by adding more compost as the stems grow, until the bag is full. 1 Place rich, moist compost into a large purpose-made potato bag until it’s about a third full. Then take four potato tubers, which are just starting to sprout. 2 Sit the tubers on the surface of the compost with the sprouts facing upwards. Space them as far apart as possible – ideally 20-30cm. 3 Cover the tubers with about 5cm of compost and water in well. Continue watering regularly, and…

1 Line a meshed basket with hessian or fine netting before filling with a low-nutrient loam-based compost for aquatic plants. 2 Remove the lily from its pot and trim off any dead leaves. 3 Plant into the centre of the new pot and top up compost. Add gravel to the top to stop the compost floating off when lowered into the pond.…

The simplest way to grow from seed is directly into the ground. Use a trowel or fork to ensure the soil is level. Make a very shallow trench and scatter seeds thinly along it, then cover with compost. When the seedlings appear, pull out the weakest ones, leaving the plants spaced out at the width specified on the packet. You can give your seedlings a head start for earlier flowers and keep them out of reach of slugs by sowing seeds now in small pots indoors on a windowsill or in a greenhouse. (Turn to p106 for how to do it.) Or you can simply buy young plants. For tender plants, such as cosmos and dahlias, wait until May or even early June before planting them outside to ensure they…

If you’ve ever wondered how and where to start in gardening but been baffled by a blizzard of advice, then you’re in the right place. This one-stop guide shares skills and inspiration from our team of experts, to ensure you get the best from your space – and garden with confidence. From creating a stylish plot perfect for you and your family, to mastering seed sowing, planting and more, you’ll find it here, with links to related ‘how to...’ videos on our website. So keep this handbook by your side as your enjoy your gardening journey. And share with us photos of the projects it inspires – from pots to makeovers – with hashtag #GWhowto…

You will need • Garden fork and spade • Compost and general-purpose granular feed 1 Dig a hole in the ground, making sure that it is at least as deep as the pot your plant is growing in and twice as wide. 2 Use a garden fork to loosen the base and sides of the hole, then mix some compost or granular feed into the soil in the hole. 3 Place the plant in the hole, making sure the top of the compost is the same level as the surrounding soil. You can use a stick or cane to check this. 4 Using the soil you removed from the hole fill in around the plant, firming it as you go. Water in and continue to water, especially in dry weather,…

You will need • A garden fork and rake or hand trowel • A hoe or hand trowel • Garden twine or string • A watering can 1 Fork over the area and use a rake or hand trowel to get rid of lumps in the soil until you have a fine, crumbly texture. 2 Use twine to mark out your row then make a drill for the seed – use a hoe or trowel handle to make a shallow trench. 3 Sow the seeds along the prepared trench at the distance stated on the seed packet. 4 Draw soil back over the seeds so they are at the correct depth. Water in well using a watering can fitted with a fine rose. WATCH our guide to sowing seed at…

Why feed plants? Feeding helps to keep plants healthy and encourages flowering and fruiting. Although plants produce their own food through photosynthesis and from the soil, all fruit and vegetables, annual plants and plants in pots will benefit from a regular boost. Always check the packaging for the correct rate of application. The basic nutrients plants need • Nitrogen (N) for leaf and stem growth • Phosphorous (P) for roots • Potassium (K) for flowers, fruit and all-round healthy growth Types of feed • Liquid feeds Mixed with water these are easy to apply and fast-acting as roots can immediately take in the dissolved nutrients in the water. They include high-potassium tomato feeds that are watered in every couple of weeks through summer to promote fruiting. • Granular and powder…

You can buy plants from a range of places and each has its own pros and cons. If you buy plants from garden centres, DIY stores and supermarkets you’ll be able to check they’re healthy and choose what you want. But stock may be limited. Mail order catalogues and online nurseries give a wider choice but you can’t see the plants before you buy, so always use reputable nurseries. What to buy • Seeds Growing from seed is the cheapest way to start and gives the widest choice. But unless you can sow directly outside you need time and space indoors to grow them on. • Plugs These small plants are grown from seed but are not full size and must be grown on by you at home. They are…

Our gardens are getting smaller, and our green spaces are being built over. Is it any wonder that four in five of us say we’re stressed* . Gardening can surely provide some answers to help us restore a better balance in our lives. Here’s where the new Gardeners’ World TV series campaign, Every Space Counts, comes in. Through it, the presenters will be showing how even the most awkward site can, with a little imagination, become a green haven. They’ll be exploring some of the UK’s tiniest patios, yards, even windowboxes, to celebrate the creativity of our nation’s gardeners. So, to inspire you to look afresh at your outside space, we’re sharing in this issue small space solutions that’ll give you great results, whatever your gardening experience. We’ll also recreate…

On the radio the other day, I heard a well-known chef say that one of the problems of cooking in Britain is that we are just not a foodie nation. We like eating, but only up to a certain point and – more pertinently – only up to a certain price. There is nothing new in this. Arguably the British have not respected or enjoyed food very much for the past 100 years or so. But we do love growing food. All over Britain, allotments and veg plots are being tenderly kindled into a new season. Seeds are being sown and ground is being tilled. Varieties are carefully chosen, taking into account situation, soil, taste and season. The right moment will be selected for thinning, pricking out and transplanting, and…

Even the smallest garden can be gorgeous - you just have to be clever with the space available. Here we share seven tricks of the trade used by garden designers to make a plot feel bigger than it really is. Not only do they give the illusion of more space, they also help you fit more in, so although your garden may be small, your gardening ambitions should have no limits. Break up the space It might seem odd to divide a small space into even smaller areas, but it is a classic trick designers use to make an area look and feel bigger. Not being able to see the whole garden at once makes it difficult to quantify a space, and hiding even just a corner from view with…

Big harvests can come from small spaces, as lots of delicious vegetables grow well in pots. Many look very ornamental too, so if you plant them in a stylish container, they deserve pride of place. You’ll have to water and feed them regularly, but this is easy to do if you keep them close to the house. And why have just one crop when you could have two? These five simple container combinations not only look beautiful but will grow well together and double your harvest. Summer salads sorted You will need 4 cordon cherry tomato plants ‘Sungold’, ‘Rosella’, ‘Gardener’s Delight’, ‘Ildi’ 12 lettuce plug plants ‘Salad Bowl’, ‘Red Salad Bowl’ and ‘Green Oakleaf’ 4 bamboo canes Multi-purpose peat-free compost Large reclaimed metal tub approx 80cm wide x 60cm deep…

Plant out annuals sown in autumn Hardy annuals sown last autumn can be planted outside now. But before doing so, water them well, then trim back any leggy growth to encourage strong new flower shoots. Plant them in their final position in the border, making sure the rootball is covered, firm them in and water again. Protect them from early slugs and snails. Sweet peas and other annual climbers will need a cane wigwam for support. Keep tying in climbers Get the best out of your climbers by regularly tying in new shoots to their supports. Left to their own devices, they can quickly get out of control and swamp nearby plants. Use soft twine on these fresh new stems, tying it loosely so that stems can expand. If you…

Grow zinnia and cosmos seeds Start your seeds off this month to get the longest display from them this summer. Sow indoors straight away or outdoors from the end of the month when the soil is warmer. They’ll grow well in the ground or large containers, and give you several bouquets if you want to cut them. Bees and other pollinators will love them, too. These half-hardy varieties are not frost tolerant, so harden them off before planting out and keep some fleece handy to throw over the plants if a frosty night is forecast. Watch out for slugs and snails as these varieties will make a tasty meal, especially when they’re young seedlings. Control methods include barriers, nematodes, pellets and traps. Work out which ones you’ll use and get…

Harden plants off The risk of frost will soon be over in most parts of the country, and you’ll be able to start planting tender plants outside. But they’ll suffer a setback if you put them straight outside – instead you need to harden them off by putting them out during the day then covering them at night. By introducing them gradually to lower temperatures and more air movement, you’ll toughen them up for the season ahead. Look after humidity lovers Large-leaved plants and those that come from tropical or temperate forests, such as orchids and bromeliads, do best if the air around them is humid. But this can be tricky to maintain in our homes or even in greenhouses, especially if you’re also growing plants that need drier conditions.…

Reviving your lawn in spring Your poor lawn! It sits through the winter looking sadder and sadder, suffering rain, frost and even snow, then getting trampled underfoot, and you expect it to turn into a swathe of green velvet come spring. Which it will do – with just a little help from you. Any work done now will really pay dividends, giving your lawn the wherewithal to thrive when you want it to be at its best. You can mow whenever the grass is growing, but now is the time to really start mowing in earnest – and once a week will produce a far better lawn than once a fortnight. Your lawn will become more dense and finer grasses will be encouraged. Collect the clippings in a grass box…

Micro-greens are very young plants that haven’t developed much past the seedling stage. They’re quick and easy to grow, packed with flavour and incredibly nutritious. Sowing in guttering is ideal if you’re short on space or want to keep them out of reach of slugs. And the limited root room isn’t a problem with such tiny plants. You need to put the guttering somewhere handy, so you can easily sow and harvest, little and often. You can place it on brackets attached to a sunny fence at a convenient height, or set several across a pair of trestles by the back door. 1 PREPARE the guttering by drilling drainage holes in the base along the whole length, and block off the ends with duct tape. 2 FILL to just below…

VIEW FROM BEECHGROVE Provide greenhouse shading The greenhouse at Beechgrove is full of seedlings and young plants in April. Cold days are still frequent, but when the sun shines, heat trapped within the greenhouse needs to be controlled and plants close to the glass protected. External blinds on the top and sides allow shade to be quickly implemented and removed as necessary. Smaller greenhouses in particular need protection from overheating. Venting and damping down helps, too. Unused to full sunlight, seedlings can struggle to keep their leaves cool, and the tips can scorch and brown. Newspaper placed carefully over the plants works well if shading is not in place. April tasks Keep potting on seedlings to avoid a check in their growth Prune back lavender and penstemmon to fresh new…

Our bees and butterflies, and other pollinating insects, such as moths and hoverflies, need your help. As more land is built on and paved over, there’s less for them to eat, and they are increasingly reliant on gardens to provide them with pollen and nectar. But you can help to reverse their decline by growing the open-flowered, nectar-rich plants they love. You don’t need lots of space – a small area, 1m square, is enough to host a whole range of plants and if you choose carefully they’ll provide a banquet of blooms all year round. Having a variety of flowers in bloom for as long as possible will ensure there is food for pollinators all year, from spring right through to winter. I’ll show you over the next few…

Edible flowers Grow a rainbow of petals for a summery touch in soups, salads and cakes 3 WAYS TO TRY • Scatter a mix of colourful petals through salads • Decorate your desserts • Mix with olive oil, shallots and lemon juice for an alternative salsa verde Delicious edible flowers Nutrition Many edible flowers are high in vitamins A and C, which promote a healthy immune system, and are rich in beneficial antioxidants. How to sow Many edible flowers, including chamomile, chives, cornflowers, courgettes and marigolds can be grown from seed. They can be sown in the ground or in a pot, on their own or with other flowers or veg. You’ll get the most flowers in a sunny spot. Chamomile, chives, cornflowers and marigolds are all hardy, so they…

Although the UK’s mild climate enables us to grow a vast range of plants, it’s not without its challenges. The winter months can bring us wind, rain, snow and hail from the Atlantic and Siberia. This onslaught can have a devastating impact on our gardens. Remember forecaster Michael Fish and that fateful night in 1987? And just a few weeks ago the ‘beast from the east’ brought heavy snow, strong winds and bitter temperatures that affected plants and gardens across the UK. With this in mind it’s worth examining your shrubs, trees and garden now for signs of damage. Wind The wind’s impact can be both subtle and very obvious. Strong storms can bring down trees, but lesser ongoing blows can cause ‘root-rock’ of newly establishing plants, leaf desiccation of…

Spring • Sow annual plants such as cosmos and tender vegetable crops like beans and courgettes on the windowsill. • Prick out and pot on plants grown from seed as they develop. • Plant summer-flowering bulbs such as alliums in pots and borders. • Sow edible crops such as lettuce, carrots and radish directly outside from mid-spring. • Sow tender veg such as sweetcorn directly outside and plant up pots and hanging baskets when frosts have passed. Sow herbs such as coriander and basil outside. • Start to mow lawns once a week. • Nip out weeds as you spot them. • Be vigilant and on the lookout for pests and diseases on plants. • Water plants when necessary. • Stake taller plants as they grow. • Give shrubs, herbaceous…

You will need • Container at least 20cm deep and wide • Potting compost • Slow-release fertiliser • Mulching material such as gravel or bark 1 Fill your container with compost to two-thirds full to allow space for the plants to go in at the right depth. Break up any lumps with your hands. 2 Mix in a handful of slow-release fertiliser if you’re planting up in spring or summer. If you’re planting a winter container, there’s no need for plant food. 3 Knock the plants from their pots and plant them, filling in with more compost – the plants should be 2-3cm below the pot rim – then firm down. 4 To prevent moisture evaporating from the surface of the compost and to stop weeds growing, add a layer…

• Acid soil Soil with a pH below neutral (less than 7) • Alkaline soil Soil with a pH above neutral (higher than 7) • Annual A plant that germinates, flowers and dies within one year • Aspect The direction in which something faces (north, south, etc) • Biennial A plant that has a two-year life cycle • Chit To encourage seed potatoes to sprout before planting, by placing them in a bright spot until the shoots are about 3cm long • Cloche A structure, made of glass or clear material, used to protect plants in cold weather • Compost A shop-bought potting medium to grow plants in; or a homemade organic material made from a mix of brown and green waste left to decompose • Cultivar A plant that…

In pursuit of peat-free options Why is it so hard to find peat-free composts? My local garden centres put it at the back of displays and there seems to be only one bag for every 12 composts with peat. The cost is also higher when it should at least be equal; maybe there should be a tax on peat? Rev Tony Redman, Suffolk I like to do my bit to save the peat bogs and have been using products with coir [coco fibre peat substitute] with some success. But two garden centres have told me that coir has been withdrawn from the market. Is this true? Mr D R Parks, Tunbridge Wells We say Coir products are still available; perhaps your local garden centres have supply issues so look…

A glorious potted obelisk of climbing plants, cushioned with cheery annuals at its feet, adds height, colour and a sense of theatre to the garden. It has an architectural quality that can bring structure to a muddled corner, or break up a dull expanse of patio or garden fencing. By cleverly exploiting vertical space this is the perfect project for even the smallest courtyard. Start now by sowing your favourite annuals, such as sweet peas, thunbergia or nasturtiums, or buy young plants if you’re short on time. What about using fragrant flowers, or popping in some edibles to fill the gaps? For a more permanent arrangement that lasts longer than just a season, choose perennial stalwarts such as clematis or roses. For healthy, easy-to-manage growth, use the biggest containers and…

I want my plants to be happy and healthy, so I take my lead from nature and grow things that naturally enjoy the conditions I have. There are lots of amazing plants that love each different type of site, so a little research before you buy will save you not just money but disappointment too. Understanding your soil is the first and most important step, and all you need is a simple soil testing kit from a garden centre. This will measure the pH, telling you if you have acid, neutral or alkaline soil. The next step is to get your hands into the soil and work out its make-up – is it sandy and dry, sticky clay, or silty? Then look at which direction your garden faces (also called…

Comfrey plants can be turned into a free organic feed that contains an easily accessible supply of valuable plant nutrients, including the three essentials – nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. But a word of warning: comfrey is hugely invasive, so grow it in a pot to stop it spreading, or buy ‘Bocking 14’ plants, which are sterile and less likely to take over your garden. To make the feed, simply chop up the leaves and stuff them into a large bucket or watertight container (preferably with a lid, as it gets a bit smelly!). Fill the container with water and leave it for four to six weeks. Dilute the resulting liquid with water until it’s the colour of weak tea, then use it as a liquid feed on all manner of…

Sowing a new lawn The cheapest way to get the best-quality lawn is to sow it from seed. Turf has the satisfaction of an instant effect but it can be expensive. The key to success is in the preparation. A firm and level seedbed will mean the lawn has no bumps or dips. Make sure the edges are above the level of the paving or build in a gap to prevent the mower blades from future damage. Expect the seed to germinate in about two weeks and keep it well watered during dry spells, particularly when it first comes into growth. Keep off it until the grass is about 4-5cm high, then give it an initial cut with the mower blades set at their highest level. This will encourage the…

Both flowers can be sown indoors now and will grow away well, germinating a week or two after sowing. The cosmos will be happy in seed trays, but zinnias dislike root disturbance so just sow two seeds each into small pots, pulling out the weakest once germinated. Place in a draught-free, well-lit spot and keep the compost damp but not wet. Plants must be hardened off for a couple of weeks before planting outside once frosts have passed. 1 Fill small pots with seed compost and scatter seed thinly over the surface. Sprinkle compost to cover. 2 Place on a warm windowsill and keep moist. As they grow, nip out the weaker zinnia and prick out cosmos into individual pots. 3 Grow on until frosts have passed and then plant…

Most annual herbs can be sown now for picking this summer, and these young plants offer the most aromatic foliage. Sow in seed trays, giving them some heat and lots of light, then prick out and grow on singly. They can also be sown in small clumps in modules or pots, and planted straight outside from there. 1 Fill a tray with free-draining multi-purpose compost, level across the top with a stick and gently firm down the surface. 2 Scatter the seeds sparsely and evenly across the tray. Then go back and fill any gaps with a little more seed, to ensure the seedlings will be well spaced. 3 Sprinkle a layer of fine-grade vermiculite over the seeds, water using a watering can fitted with a rose, then label clearly.…

1 Weeding You can apply a combined weedkiller and fertiliser to the lawn, but for an organic gardener like me, a daisy grubber is the best way to remove rosette-forming weeds. 2 Moss removal If you apply a moss killer, you still have to rake out the dead moss afterwards. So I prefer to simply rake out the growing moss, then add an organic lawn feed. 3 Feeding Organic fertilisers (such as blood, fish and bonemeal) are long lasting, wildlife-friendly and unlikely to cause scorch. Use a wheeled distributor for an even application. 4 Re-seeding Get rid of any bare patches by lightly forking or raking the soil, then scattering with grass seed. Lay twiggy pea sticks over the patch to stop cats and birds disturbing it.…

Oca is a tender species of Oxalis from South America. It produces tubers that can be eaten cooked or raw and are smaller and crunchier than potatoes. It needs a long growing season, so is best started off in pots indoors, then planted out in late May. The plants grow large and bushy, but the tubers don’t form until autumn, so aren’t harvested until the top growth dies back after being frosted. 1 Buy oca tubers from online seed suppliers. Sometimes several varieties are available, with mixed colours or a single colour. 2 Give each tuber its own 10cm pot, filled with potting compost. Press the tuber into the centre, with any buds at the top. 3 Cover the tuber with about 6cm of compost, before watering in well. Place…

Hedges add structure, define border edges and create new areas. For a formal-shaped hedge, trim the tops of plants like this Buxus to the level of last year’s growth soon after planting. Leave informal hedges like lavender or fuchsia to make their natural form and prune as you would a single specimen. 1 CHOOSE containerised hedge plants for planting now, such as yew or holly. Box (pictured) is a traditional option but may suffer from pest and disease problems. 2 SET OUT the plants according to your chosen spacing. Base the decision on plant vigour, budget and desired effect. Plant closely for a straight, formal hedge line. 3 KEEP the rootball surface at ground level as you plant the hedge and firm either side of each plant with your hands…

Summer and autumn pollinator plants Cosmos Cosmos bipinnatus Dot five young plants in the middle of the patch; give them space to grow. In flower Jun-Nov Height x Spread 100cm x 50cm Dahlia Dahlia ‘Bishop of Auckland’ Space three of these open-flowered types evenly across the patch. In flower Jul-Nov H x S1m x 45cm Gaura Gaura lindheimeri ‘Summer Emotions’ Plant just three towards the front. In flower May-Sep H x S30cm x 30cm Marjoram Origanum vulgare Plant five of these tall plants along the back of the bed. In flower Jul-Sep H x S80cm x 45cm Sedum Hylotelephium ‘Karfunkelstein’ Grow three in the front corner. In flower Aug-Oct H x S30cm x 50cm…

Q Can you recommend small trees that will provide shade? Jane Smith, by email A BOB SAYS For a tree that stays small, yet offers shade, you need a strong trunk growing to about 1-2m and then a branching top that doesn’t grow very strongly or can be cut back every few years. Most varieties of apple, other than ‘Bramley’s Seedling’, would suit, or a crab apple if you don’t want to eat the fruit; quinces if the soil is moist, and apricots, although they can be hard to find on a tall trunk. A hawthorn would be good, too. In your letter, you say these new trees are to replace some existing ones that you are removing before they grow too big. Don’t plant the new trees in exactly…

“We come back from our holidays with cuttings of this and that in our sponge bags, unaware that we may be bringing in a pest or disease that could devastate our landscape” Where do you buy your plants? Forgive my impertinence, but it’s rather more important than you might think. Perhaps, like me, you buy locally when you can or from specialist nurseries that you know and trust, but then occasionally succumb to the temptations of the internet? With specialist nurseries, the chances are they’ll have grown the plants themselves with care and attention. Larger, respectable local garden centres tend to buy in their stock, but if they are respectable, they’ll make sure the plants are healthy and disease-free. But over the internet? This is where things become a little…

You will need • Small pots, measuring 7-9cm diameter • Multi-purpose or seed-sowing compost • A watering can fitted with a fine rose 1 Fill small plastic pots almost to the top with multi-purpose or seed-sowing compost. 2 Tap the pots on the table or with your hand so that it settles and levels the compost. 3 Scatter small seeds on top of the compost, or make a shallow hole with your finger and push larger seeds into it. 4 Cover the seeds with compost by sprinkling it on top. Label the pots and water. Grow somewhere warm and bright.…