Innehållsförteckning för September 2020 från Bon Appetit

SOYINI DRISKELL DIRECTOR OF CONTENT DEVELOPMENT Life mantra: “WWSD—What Would Solange Do?” Confession: “I don’t do base or concealer, so my skin runs on liters of water and SPF every day.” Beauty must-have: “Volumizing mascara, so my lashes can keep up with my glitter shadow.” OVER $100 VALUE* FOR ONLY $15 ALLURE.COM/BOX *Includes retail value of new member gift: Anastasia Beverly Hills Moonchild Glow Kit (full size). All while supplies last. Your box contains the e.l.f. Cosmetics Highlighting Brush OR NYX Pro Contour Brush, and the Glam Up Soothing Aloe Single Sheet Mask OR Glam Up Revitalizing Japanese Sake Single Sheet Mask.…

Toss 1½ cups nuts (such as walnuts, cashews, or almonds), ¼ cup sesame seeds, 2 Tbsp. honey, 1 Tbsp. olive oil, a big pinch of mild red pepper flakes (we like gochugaru!), and ¾ tsp. kosher salt in a large bowl. Slide onto a rimmed baking sheet and bake at 350°, shaking once or twice, until nuts are golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Meanwhile, crush 2 toasted nori sheets in a spice mill, mortar and pestle, or by hand—you want a fine powder, but some big pieces are okay! When the nuts are done, immediately toss with nori and let cool. Store in an airtight container for whenever you need it most (i.e., every day at 3 p.m.).…

4 SERVINGS Kosher salt 36 littleneck clams (about 4 lb. total), scrubbed 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced 10 scallions, thinly sliced on a deep diagonal, divided 6 oz. dried soba noodles 1 Tbsp. black and white sesame seeds 1 cup dry sake or dry white wine ¼ cup white miso 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces 1. Fill a large bowl with cool water and add a handful of salt, swishing to dissolve. Place clams in a colander and set in bowl. Let sit 15 minutes to get rid of any grit. Drain and rinse clams; repeat with fresh water and salt. If a lot of grit remains, repeat once more. 2. Heat oil in a medium…

Great Under Pressure If you’re serious about cooking, baking, or life in general, then you need a scale. I believe this Good Grips 11-lb. scale ($50; oxo.com) is the best one. The display lights up so you can see it under wide bowls, and it easily changes from ounces to grams. Tread Lightly After working from home with the dogs, I’ve learned of the hair splinter: when stiff dog hairs pierce the soles of your feet. It’s painful, so I’ve been wearing Rothy’s Flats ($125; rothys.com) around the house. They slip on and off, are super breathable, and feel like I’ve got nothing on. Hot, Not Bothered How did I live so long without this Green Pepper Hot Sauce (from $4; cholula.com)?! We have fallen deeply in love, the kind…

A LONG TIME AGO it occurred to me that when people are tired and hungry, which in adult life is much of the time, they do not want to be confronted by an intellectually challenging meal; they want to be consoled,” wrote Laurie Colwin in Home Cooking (1988), perfectly articulating how I feel—and maybe you too—more than three decades later. After a draining day juggling work, homeschooling, and urging children to stop using their masks as slingshots, the ideal food for me isn’t perfectly prepared food that’s been tweezered into position, but a meal that’s simply comforting. Right now it’s this deeply cozy pot of chicken thighs, leeks, and rice. You cook a bundle of thinly sliced leeks in butter, add chicken broth and rice, and nestle in the thighs.…

1 Why Does Oil Make Food Taste Better? Some oils taste good on their own, yes, but much of the time an oil’s magic can be attributed to its role as a cooking medium. Oil assists in evenly and efficiently transferring heat to food, whether you’re roasting, deep-frying, or sautéing. In the process, the food browns, which develops and amplifies the flavors, and some of the water exits, creating a crisp outer shell that can help keep the interior tender. When you finally get to eating, oil coats the tongue so that the aromatic compounds in the food are in contact with your taste buds for even longer. 2 Know Your Terms The price—and characteristics—of any particular oil are determined by the plant source, sure, but also by the extraction…

I need to douse EVERYTHING my mom makes with Tapatío sauce. Is that rude? —PICANTE PERRY I bet she thinks you’re defective (but in a cute way) for being so sauce-obsessed, a nice stalemate to be in. She shakes her head. You hit the sauce. Everybody carries on. How many times is too many times to reuse a cloth napkin? —RERUN RANDY Three. The first two uses are fine; the third is taking it too far. I don’t care if you can’t see any ranch dressing smudges—bacteria abound! Am I allowed to start eating without everyone at the table? Some people choose to hit the bathroom just as the dinner bell rings. Dinner is getting cold. Where IS everyone? I’m not waiting… —FAMISHED FARA Usually the first person with a…

WHEN MUCH OF THE world went into lockdown five months ago (was it really only five months ago?!), we at BA had many of the same fears as everyone else. We worried about our health and the health of those we love. We worried about money, our kids’ education, and how we were going to do our jobs. We worried that life would never be the same again. But we thought we had at least one thing figured out, and that was cooking. We had the recipes and the know-how. We had the time, at least theoretically, to let our bread rise and our beans soak. Armed with our ambitions (homemade soba, deep-frying, mole from scratch), we sought refuge in the kitchen, hoping it would be a place of reprieve…

YOU CAN PREP the littlenecks for the Brothy Clams With Soba on p.16 by rinsing off their salty, sandy grit up to 12 hours ahead so that dinner comes together faster. Store the clean clams in a bowl in the fridge covered with a damp towel. Once you’re cooking, remember that clams are just like us: They need to open up in their own time.…

4 SERVINGS ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 lb. green beans, trimmed, patted dry Kosher salt 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 Tbsp. drained capers, chopped 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1. Heat oil in a large skillet over high. Cook green beans, covering skillet if beans are spattering, until browned underneath, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, carefully turn beans over and redistribute so they brown evenly, but don’t toss them since the hot oil can easily slosh out of the skillet. Continue to cook, turning occasionally, until browned all over and tender, about 5 minutes longer; season with salt. Add garlic, capers, and red pepper flakes. Cook, turning occasionally, just until garlic turns golden, about 1 minute. 2. Transfer beans to a platter. Spoon garlic mixture with some…

I AM NOT A MORNING PERSON. In New York City, where I’ve lived for almost two decades, breakfast was a Chemex of coffee and a subway ride. But when COVID-19 hit the U.S., I chose to stay in Mazatlán, Mexico, where I was researching recipes for my upcoming cookbook on regional Mexican food. I’d been through crises in New York before—9/11, Hurricane Sandy, stop-and-frisk—and didn’t have the strength for another. But then the virus spread to Mexico, and so did the lockdown. The beach closed and I found myself utterly alone in a rented apartment. My mornings slowed. Forced to focus on self-care, I created a new ritual worth getting out of bed for—early. At about 6 a.m., the birds nesting in the avocado trees outside would start singing. The…

Calling All Neat Freaks Our pantries runneth over with beans, grains, and other flotsam left over from a seriously long stretch of cooking. It’s time for an organization intervention. These sleek storage containers keep cabinets under control but are cute enough to leave on the countertop, freeing up shelves for… even more beans. Away Rick Mar tinez’s dreamy Mexican breakfast spread, a gimbap-fueled family road trip, and more…

4 SERVINGS ¾ cup walnuts ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 1 tsp. ground cinnamon ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 1 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 4 medium Japanese or 2 medium globe eggplants (about 1½ lb. total), halved lengthwise, cut crosswise 2" thick 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced 1½ cups mint leaves, torn if large Kosher salt 2 Tbsp. date syrup or honey 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Toast walnuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing occasionally, until golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Let cool, then chop; set aside. 2. Meanwhile, whisk lemon juice, cinnamon, red pepper flakes, and 1 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl to combine. 3. Heat remaining ¼ cup oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high. Add eggplant and cook,…

4 SERVINGS ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 lb. ground chicken or turkey Kosher salt ¼ cup dry white wine 2 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste 3 pints cherry tomatoes 1 red chile (such as Holland or Fresno), thinly sliced 12 oz. bucatini, spaghetti, or rigatoni 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces 2 oz. Parmesan, finely grated, plus more for serving 2 cups basil leaves, torn if large 1. Heat oil in a large pot over medium. Add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and fragrant but not browned, about 2 minutes. Add chicken, season with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally and breaking up with a wooden spoon, until there are only a few pink spots left, 5–7 minutes. 2. Add wine and reduce…

The 101 What It Is Coconut flesh mashed into a paste + water + occasional emulsifiers (guar gum, yum!) BUYING We’re shopping for canned unsweetened coconut milk. Our go-to brands are Aroy-D, Trader Joe’s, and Native Forest. Keep a few cans in the pantry for curries, rich vegan soups, and tropical desserts. STORING If you’re using only a little bit, say for fish sauce-spiked creamed greens, reserve the rest in a jar and store it in the fridge for a week. Or freeze it in ice cube trays like test kitchen editor Sohla El-Waylly does. Don’t Confuse It With • The “light” stuff, which is watered down. You can do that yourself, if needed. • Cream of coconut, e.g., supersweet Coco Lopez (save it for piña coladas). • Cartons in…

Meet your new BREAD BOX The day you buy a loaf of good bread, slice whatever you won’t eat for lunch and freeze it in a resealable bag. Toast slices directly from the freezer when the urge strikes and never suffer a stale heel again. FREEZER FULL O ’ FISH “Ordering fish in bulk and freezing it has been a game changer. There are mail-order companies shipping everything from wild salmon to octopus tentacles. My freezer’s packed with my last shipment from Fulton Fish Market. Because fish defrosts quickly in a bowl of cold water, I don’t even have to think that far ahead about making it for dinner.” —EMMA WARTZMAN Think Small A (mini) case for freezing random tiny portions of leftover ingredients such as: Coconut milk, wine, and…

SHOPPING LIST THE BUY p.9 HAWKINS NY GLASS LARGE MAPLE SIMPLE STORAGE CONTAINER $45; food52.com SOWDEN TIN $10; us.hay.com CRATE & BARREL CLARA LARGE CERAMIC STORAGE CANISTER $25; crateandbarrel.com CRATE & BARREL MONTANA 96 OZ. ACACIA AND GLASS JAR $23; crateandbarrel.com FAMILY MEAL p.14 JUST DATE SYRUP $9; justdatesyrup.com WE’RE INTO IT p.22 GOOD GRIPS 11-LB. SCALE $50; oxo.com ICELANDIC+ HERRING FISH TREATS $13; store.icelandicplus.com ROTHY’S FLATS $125; rothys.com DRX BLEMISH SOLUTIONS CLARIFYING MASK $28; drdennisgross.com GREEN PEPPER HOT SAUCE From $4; cholula.com RUST-OLEUM CHALKBOARD PAINT $11; homedepot.com THE ONE-SHEET p.26 ANITA’S COCONUT YOGURT $12; instacart.com AROY-D COCONUT MILK $1; instacart.com NATIVE FOREST ORGANIC SIMPLE COCONUT MILK $3; thrivemarket.com THE POUR pp.36–37 CACIQUE MARAVILLA PIPEÑO PAÍS $18; sfwtc.com VIÑA MAITIA AUPA $14; olivinowines.com LOUIS-ANTOINE LUYT PIPEÑO PORTEZUELO $22; kingstonwine.com OUR…