Innehållsförteckning för October 2024 från Bon Appetit

Brooklyn Peltz Beckham has determined his current life path will be charted by his palate. The now 25-year-old first-born child of soccer icon David Beckham and designer-entrepreneur Victoria Beckham embraced the kitchen during the pandemic, evolving from self-proclaimed “foodie” to packaged goods entrepreneur with a soft spot for the hot sauces we all love—Frank’s RedHot, Cholula, and even Truff. Peltz Beckham first flirted with making hot sauce two and a half years ago with his wife. “We were drunk in the kitchen together, and when you make hot sauce, it really kind of stinks up your whole house, and it was burning our eyes,” he says. “We were having just such a laugh with it.” He recently launched Cloud23, a condiment line named after the jersey number his father sported…

4 SERVINGS While the Southern Italian rendition often uses a mix of cream and lemon juice, this pasta is coated in a silky butter sauce made with lemon zest as well as juice. If you don’t have Meyer lemons, regular lemon juice sweetened with a squeeze of tangerine will work beautifully. Drizzling the olive oil over the pasta just before serving allows it to meld with the warm sauce. 1 lb. linguine½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus moreZest of 2 Meyer lemons6 Tbsp. (¾ stick) unsalted butter½ tsp. freshly ground pepper Juice of 1 Meyer lemon¼ cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; plus more for serving (optional)Extra-virgin olive oil (for drizzling)Meyer lemon wedges (for serving; optional) Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally,…

Brace yourselves: The fluorescent nostalgia of old-school cocktails is popping up at a cocktail bar near you. Taking cues from a TikTok-fueled aesthetic revival, bartenders are riffing on cocktails of yesteryear, introducing them to a new generation of bargoers but with modern craft techniques and better ingredients. Take the appletini, that sour-sweet cocktail made popular in the mid-’90s. It’s one of many retro drinks experiencing a resurgence—though this time around they’ve got more nuance and restraint. New Orleans’s Hungry Eyes leans into an ’80s aesthetic—think glossy black-and-white tile art and abundant neon lighting—and the apple martini is one of the most popular drinks on the menu, according to bar director Carlos Quinonez. He updates the classic with apple juice, brandy, and apple syrup instead of sticky-sweet sour apple liquor. Quinonez…

COLUMBUS, OH AGNI What’s a Chinese chili oil dumpling doing on the same menu as a Oaxacan mole or a Texas Roadhouse–inspired bread service? Every plate served at Agni is a reflection of executive chef and owner Avishar Barua’s staff and their diverse backgrounds. Some creations, like Sardinian pasta with goat curry, blend cuisines, while others, like a pani puri, stick to tradition. The courses (and the many extra snacks) also share an underlying assiduity—and a sense that Agni’s kitchen team is having a great time. Rohan duck undergoes an intensive one-week aging and marinating process for one of the bigger dishes. Yet a comically large chili cheese fry, which nods to Cincinnati’s iconic food, is pure fun. Servers credit one cook with that luscious mole, another for a Brazilian…

The pizzas at DC’s Bar Del Monte are excellent, which should come as no surprise. After all, chef-owner Oliver Pastan grew up in the kitchen at 2Amys, his parents’ iconic Neapolitan spot. But Bar Del Monte is not a pizzeria. Rather, it’s a celebration of the kind of rustic, ingredient-driven cooking found at the best Italian trattorias and Basque pintxos bars, places where humble, top-notch ingredients are treated with exacting care, and pigs’ ears really are turned into silk purses. (Or, in this case, a perfectly crisp-chewy fritto misto.) For the arrosticini, a specialty of Abruzzo, Pastan breaks down whole Virginia lambs into bite-size nubbins, then painstakingly alternates fatty and lean bits on skinny skewers before grilling them gently. The dish is not flashy, but it astounds: quality meat, aged…

Fresh out of culinary school, Fidel Caballero started to connect some dots as he cooked around the world. Pea shoots piled high at Chinatown markets in Shanghai resembled alache, a plant he grew up eating in Northern Mexico. The prevalence of grilled meat at restaurants in Basque Country brought him back to his childhood in Chihuahua where cattle is king. This spirit of curiosity for different cultures and a talent for weaving these connections together is on full display at Caballero’s first restaurant, which features a dressed-down à la carte in the front and a sparse back room where chefs in an open kitchen create a $110 seven-course tasting menu. A crisp tlayuda is coated with edamame-pistachio guacamole and veiled in dry-aged raw beef, and a little bowl of “udon”…

BEST BEVERAGE PROGRAM COCONUT CREAM Coconut cream is a must in amok. The Thai brand Mae Ploy offers its trademark velvety texture to the Mekong’s final form, and the can doubles as a charming drinking vessel. RIPE AND GREEN MANGOES To create a balance of sweetness and acidity, Etley blends in creamy Carabao mangoes from Cambodia’s neighboring isles, the Philippines, along with a tart Thai green mango syrup that’s made in-house. Seattle’s Mekong Asian Market supplies both fruits. FISH SAUCE A little goes a long way! This pungent staple provides curious depth and appears throughout Sophon’s drinks menu. In addition to being a key component in the peanut orgeat syrup, the bar keeps a squeeze bottle of it handy and drops a spoonful into the cocktail just before blitzing. PEANUT…

AZIZAM Cody Ma and Misha Sesar put a hashtag under their mouthwatering Instagram photos: #notjustkabobs. At their restaurant, the couple leans away from the standard grilled meats you’ll find at many Persian restaurants, instead sharing seasonal dishes inspired by home cooking. Azizam has a fast-casual feel—order at the breezy restaurant’s counter and find a seat—but the meal is only as fast as you want it to be. You will savor every bite of the kofteh tabrizi, a densely packed beef and rice meatball that’s bigger than a baseball and rarely seen outside the kitchens of accomplished home cooks. At each one’s center is a chewy-sweet cluster of tender walnuts and sticky dried fruit that evokes the childlike joy of finding the toy in a cereal box. Be careful not to…

Subtlety is not the goal at Hungry Eyes. The New Orleans restaurant shares a name with the iconic 1987 soft rock hit—yes, the one from Dirty Dancing—and is a full-on tribute to the ’80s. The restaurant is outfitted with striking Pop art, pink neon lights, and precisely four enameled leopard figurines behind the bar. The food is just as colorful, refracting globally inspired flavors through the lens of Southern cuisine. Seared okra and shishito peppers are glazed in a fragrant mixture of lemongrass and fish sauce. Steak tartare is dressed in a sharp, fatty “burger grease vinaigrette.” Halibut crudo thrums with salty richness thanks to a sauce of cinnamon and malty beer. Restaurants oozing personality aren’t unusual for coowner Mason Hereford, whose audacious takes on the sandwiches of his youth…

BARBS B Q’S PINEAPPLE UPSIDE-DOWN COBBLER 12 SERVINGS At Barbs B Q the classic Southern cobbler is reimagined into something a bit different: Their version is everything you love recast into a tender ooey-gooey riff on an upside-down cake studded with vibrant candied sour cherries and pieces of pineapple. Serve it warm and top with whipped cream for the ultimate end to a meal. ¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, melted3⅓ cups (417 g) self-rising flour2½ cups whole milk1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt2½ cups plus 2 Tbsp. (525 g) granulated sugar36 drained sour black cherries in syrup (such as Amarena; about 1 cup), divided, plus more for serving3 cups drained crushed pineapple, divided½ cup (100 g) raw sugar2 cups heavy cream2 tsp. vanilla extract Place…

BACK TO THE FUTURE Jell-O for dessert? Saltines from scratch? Shrimp cocktail? I’ve had all three this year at neighborhood restaurants and predict that more aunts and grannies will influence chefs to bring these old-school dishes back to the table. CHAAT MASALA Our test kitchen editors Chris Morocco and Shilpa Uskokovich agree that the Indian street snack blend is the next go-to spice for grilling and sautéing. You can order it from our partners at Burlap & Barrel. DOUGHNUT / CROISSANT CONTINUUM Parisian cafés are filling up with American-style doughnuts. In the US, lamination techniques are on the rise. With pastry trends fueled by TikTok, we expect croissant variations to add layers of everything from cream filling to cookie dough.…

BON APPÉTIT 56 WHY WE LOVE IT The best part of Claire Saffitz’s legendary No-Fail Roast Chicken is cleanup duty. Sure, there are plenty of other accolades. The recipe yields decadent results with only six ingredients, and it is so simple that even a neophyte such as myself can pull it off (BA’s test kitchen editors weren’t kidding when they dubbed it “No-Fail”). And, yes, the aromas are so intoxicating that you might face competition over the usually thankless task of carving (how else do you get to surreptitiously consume a quarter of the chicken at its juiciest?). But nothing matches the cleanup: the post-dinner joy of an empty kitchen, a baking dish full of garlicky jus, and a hunk of bread as your sponge. 4 SERVINGS 1 3½–4-lb. chicken Kosher…

I don’t see any reservations online. Can I contact the restaurant directly? There’s no harm in trying! According to acclaimed Philadelphia restaurateur Ellen Yin, that Hail Mary phone call could pay off. “Somebody who’s looking at the reservation book might see a way to make it happen for you,” Yin says. “Especially if it’s a special occasion.” Eek, I’m late! What do I do? As soon as you can, get in touch. A heads-up allows hosts to seat a walk-in party or move tables around as needed. Most places offer a grace period. But, as Isabella Pisacane, director of hospitality and partner of buzzy West Village bistro Libertine notes, “If you’re 30 minutes late…there may be a chance the table won’t be available right away.” In some cases you might…

After a year of international travel including Antarctic cruises; a nine-course dinner for just 12 lucky guests a night in Santiago, Chile; and evenings at a Levantine-Latin restaurant turned cultural hub in Dubai; the globe-trotting team at Traveler has named the best new restaurants in the world. Here, we’re sharing four of our favorites, which we’ve bookmarked to visit with airline miles before the year runs out. Take a seat at Datil in Paris for the most thoughtful and confident seasonally driven plant-based cuisine in the city, or relax in the mountain air as you dine on a progressive menu at Naar in Darwa, India. Check out the entire list using the QR code on page 43. And don’t forget domestic travel. Our list of the 20 Best New Restaurants…

SUSTAINABILITY STEWARDS MINNEAPOLIS, MN ORO BY NIXTA Corn is a shape-shifter at Oro by Nixta. It may blend into a burnt orange molote, a masa-based fried dumpling made of sweet potato and hibiscus, or be nixtamalized for a steely indigo tortilla that cradles celery root batons cut thick like steak fries. Whatever the hue and final form, the corn—an array of colorful heirloom varieties sourced from Mexico—simultaneously satisfies and excites. These corn-based dishes are vehicles for a robust selection of inventive and largely vegetarian options, such as a creamy ceviche-style dish bejeweled with tomato and hearts of palm, whose smooth curls could be mistaken for squid. Oro’s casual paper menu is designed to enlighten, educating diners on varieties of mole, salsas, and other ingredients and describing how nixtamalization allows hard…

Anthony Salguero’s pupusas are mesmerizing. The chef nixtamalizes and grinds corn into plump balls of masa that he stuffs with seasonal vegetables and presses flat on a cast-iron griddle set above a wood fire. They arrive at the table molten hot, oozing salty cheese, and tasting of smoke and sweet corn. It’s tempting to order another before you’ve finished the first. But Salguero’s menu has much more to offer, blending local produce with Salvadoran tradition to create something entirely his own. He braises chicken in a rich stock enhanced by tangy fermented pineapple juice and sappy panela, and crowns the tender chunks of meat with a mound of grilled radishes and dates. Little links of funky, salty chorizo hang above the grill absorbing smoke and come to the table in…

Before Mike Satinover opened Chicago’s most promising new ramen restaurant, he was a home cook known on Reddit as Ramen Lord. He spent over a decade posting about broth and noodles in the forum r/ramen, where he helped to cultivate a community of more than 1 million devoted enthusiasts. Online, Satinover collected fans for his highly detailed postings as a home cook eager to learn more. At Akahoshi, he’s mastered his craft and found a home for his precision and finesse. (To ensure his broth has the ideal viscosity, for instance, he employs a device called a refractometer.) A bowl of miso ramen comes with slender Sapporo-style noodles in a velvety broth topped with thinly sliced green onions, supple bamboo shoots, and pork belly chashu. A brothless bowl of tantanmen…

PORTLAND, OR PASAR Pasar’s dining room is lined with bright bags of Indonesian candies, and a thatched roof shades the well-stocked bar. This is chef-owner Feny’s recreation of the bustling street markets she frequented as a child in Jakarta. Her menu is filled with renditions of the snacks that fueled these early-morning and late-night adventures. Small dishes, many of them just $3 or $4, come in quick succession until the table fills up like a game of Tetris. Neat squares of sticky rice stuffed with shredded chicken sit alongside tender beef skewers coated in velvety gravy and bright turmeric-tinted rice wreathed in condiments. Feny has a pristine touch with snackable desserts called kue, which she fries and steams into delicate treats that you’re encouraged to eat throughout the meal. A…

WARM COMFORT As soon as the air gets chilly and the Norway maple outside my apartment sheds its leaves, I take out my chipped wide-mouth mug for my favorite seasonal ritual: The Year’s First Hot Toddy. Usually, I zhuzh up the drink with a lemon round and a cinnamon stick, sipping until I’m toasty and tipsy. This year I’m freshening up that old tradition by making a version called Warm Comfort, devised by Jared Hirsch, the bar manager at San Francisco’s Quince. He swaps the usual bourbon or whiskey for reposado tequila, a smooth, cozy alternative. And he introduces chamomile tea to the mix, adding a mellow, delicately floral note. I love how the tea gentles the tequila’s strong flavor and deepens its rich texture—you can steep the tea longer…

TEST KITCHEN TIPS, RECIPES, and RECOMMENDATIONS RESTAURANTS, TRAVEL, and FOOD FOR THOUGHT DINNER IS SERVED: RESTAURANT REMIX Elevate your weeknights with dinners inspired by our favorite meals out, like a quick-and-easy pastrami-seasoned salmon or a punchy piccata made with yuzu. Trend Report PASTRAMI SALMON WITH FENNEL SLAW Diner and deli foods are getting a glow-up, with fancified versions of comfort dishes popping up on menus across the country. In this recipe, salmon is given the pastrami treatment with a sugar-and-spice blend that creates a smoky crust reminiscent of the cured meat, balanced well against a crunchy fennel slaw. RECIPE BY KENDRA VACULIN 4 SERVINGS 1 large fennel bulb, fronds reserved1 small red onion3 Tbsp. white wine vinegar5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling4 Tbsp. Dijon mustard, divided1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or…

The search for this year’s best new restaurants took us on a six-month expedition, with stops in Texas’s barbecue capital and Manhattan’s roaring Lower East Side. Whether we were immersed in a rack of ribs inspired by Flamin’ Hot Cheetos or a “Progressive Mexican” tasting menu informed by a chef’s travels, we found teams working together in exciting ways. Contributions to a prix fixe in Columbus, Ohio, came from line cooks and waiters with diverse culinary backgrounds. A guest bartender in New Orleans sparked an entire night of surprising drinks. Chefs across the country are wholeheartedly embracing collaboration, pulling ideas from cooks and waiters, their mentors, and other restaurants to create unique menus infused with personality and a real sense of place. These dynamics shaped Bon Appétit’s Best New Restaurants…

In Vietnamese, the term quán nhậu describes a place where people gather to drink, feast, and experience pure enjoyment. Next to a downtown Miami bus stop, Tâm Tâm is exactly that. Chef Tam Pham and his husband, sommelier Harrison Ramhofer, have created a funky diner vibe that extends to a bathroom equipped with a hidden karaoke machine. Outside, patrons chill on colorful plastic stools drinking natural wine, while in the dining room they lounge on floral vinyl banquettes and order off a menu that’s Vietnamese with a hint of Miami flair. Goat curry is bathed in chili oil and served with Chinese egg noodles and a flurry of herbs—a fiery nod to Miami’s Caribbean community. A tangy crudo punches up Key West pink shrimp with fragrant lemongrass, fresh ginger, and…

Bon Appétit: What fuels your work at Oro by Nixta? Gustavo Romero: We realized a lot of people in the Midwest never had a good tortilla. There was a lack of understanding for what we were doing—and we’re in the middle of corn country. We were doing things that were new for folks, even the farmers we worked with. For multicolored corn, some people thought we were selling burnt tortillas, but they were just made of blue corn. We realized that we’d need to educate people about why corn is so central to what we do. We import most of our corn from Mexico. There are 59 Mexican heirloom varieties, and we’ve used about a third of that—some varieties are just too difficult to source in large quantities. We process…

Philadelphia and Montreal are not sister cities in any formal respect, but the food at My Loup makes a very compelling case that they should be. Chef Alex Kemp’s brand of Quebecois-inflected cooking feels perfectly matched to the City of Brotherly Love: bighearted and maximalist, proud but unpretentious, by turns serious and fun as all hell. Only here could an elegant seafood platter feature fat, chilled mussels topped with a hoagieinspired relish, or a textbook pâtè grand-mère be followed by a garlic knot smothered in plump, extravagantly green escargot. This feels as much like a brawny bear hug between strangers celebrating a championship win as it does an elevated bistro. Kemp, who is from Quebec, co-owns the restaurant with his wife, Amanda Shulman, the chef behind the enormously successful Her…

Walking into Alpenrausch may prompt a few questions. For instance, what’s up with the fur rugs hanging over the backs of so many chairs? Or the wood-burning stove roaring in one corner (does it ever really get that cold here)? This winter wonderland comes from the charcuterie experts at Olympia Provisions and acts as a backdrop for a relaxed, cozy education in the food of the Alps. Dishes pull from tradition while taking every opportunity to highlight the bounty of the Pacific Northwest. A beautifully golden pork schnitzel curls upward and cradles spears of fresh asparagus and zippy salad greens. Whole trout is tightly bundled in chicories, grilled until smoky, then bathed in beurre blanc. The more bitter, dark mountainous spirits you take down (there are dozens to choose from,…