Innehållsförteckning för March/April 2019 från Britain

Flicking through the pages of this month’s BRITAIN before it goes to press, I’m struck by the sheer variety of experiences to be had within our shores. Just a sample from this issue: you can explore the thousand-year-old Tower of London with a Beefeater ( Guardians of the Tower, p24); take a heart-pounding walk along the chalky white cliffs that were a beacon for airmen in wartime ( White Cliffs of Dover, p39); go on a wine-tasting tour of Kent ( Wandering the wine garden of England, p54); or journey to Wales in search of the sites that inspired our great artists and poets ( Welsh Romance, p14). We strive to bring you the very best of this wonderfully varied country every issue, so we were thrilled to be recognised…

Part Two T he death in 1537 of Henry VIII’s third wife Jane Seymour had cast the King into a deep depression and his marital track record – divorcing his first wife Catherine of Aragon and executing his second wife Anne Boleyn – hardly recommended him to a prospective fourth wife. Nevertheless courtiers, anxious that their sovereign should have a male “spare” to add to his heir Edward, began hunting for another royal bride. Henry’s closest advisor Thomas Cromwell was particularly keen for a match from Germany in order to create an alliance against the Catholic threat of Spain and France. Anne of Cleves fitted the bill and Hans Holbein was commissioned to paint her portrait in order to persuade the King of her attractiveness; then Anne was duly shipped…

The We Are Bess exhibition aims to reclaim Bess of Hardwick from a 400-year reputation as a greedy power-seeker by juxtaposing the Long Gallery’s existing portraits of (overwhelmingly male) Tudor luminaries with those of exciting, influential women today. “Perhaps my favourite is the Right Hon. Libby Lane, first female bishop of the Church of England,” says Suzannah Lipscomb. “She’s hanging near both Archbishop Thomas Cranmer and Cardinal Reginald Paul, very important clergymen of the 16th century.” Photographed by Rachel Adams, these women have triumphed over similar prejudices, loss and challenges to those faced by Bess of Hardwick. Libby Lane, for example, has been accused of being manipulative, scheming, self-serving and ambitious, all insults Bess would have recognised. The exhibition aims to set-straight other scores, too. “I like that we have…

GETTING THERE Catch the Caledonian Sleeper train from London Euston to Aviemore (journey time around 10 hours 30 minutes). The station is also served by ScotRail trains, or you can fly from London to Inverness Airport in around 1hr 30 minutes. www.sleeper.scot; www.scotrail.co.uk; www.invernessairport.co.uk WHERE TO STAY For a holiday-resort atmosphere, including four hotels and lodges, restaurants and a swimming pool, consider the Macdonald Aviemore Resort. For self-catering, the cosy Bothy in Aviemore is a tempting stop. For country-house comfort, Muckrach Country House Hotel is a luxury offering set in a former Victorian shooting lodge a few miles outside Aviemore. www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk; www.thebothyaviemore.co.uk; www.muckrach.com WHERE TO EAT Grab an informal lunch or coffee at the Mountain Café in Avie-more, or for relaxed gastropub fare book at table at the Old Bridge…

Salisbury is a wonderfully tranquil cathedral city perfect for mooching around on foot as it is not too large. There are over 200 independent shops in the city, many on Fisherton Street, which has everything from Dauwalders stamp dealer to the best curry in town at Anooka, plus Fisherton Mill Gallery, tucked away down a driveway. Inside the Victorian mill, as well as a fab gallery shop and café, there are a host of small studio boutiques specialising in everything from knitting to glassmaking, silversmithing to garden designing. Near the cathedral gate, Casa Fina is perfect for gifts, while Regent is a must visit for dapper chaps, likewise OSO boutique for the ladies. Whilst there, a walk around the Close is a must – the cathedral is so inspiring and…

The Old Stones by Megalithic Portal and Andy Burnham (Watkins, £29.99) A beautiful guide to the amazing megalithic sites across Britain and Ireland. Irreplaceable: A History of England in 100 Places by Philip Wilkinson (Historic England, £20) An illustrated celebration of England’s most remarkable landmarks. Stinking Bishops and Spotty Pigs: Gloucestershire's food and drink by Emma Kay (Amberley Publishing, £14.99) An exploration of Gloucestershire’s rich culinary heritage, from cheese to cider. Only in London by Duncan JD Smith (The Urban Explorer, £16.95) Set out on a unique expedition with this refreshing alternative guide to the capital's hidden corners. Patrick Leigh Fermor by Michael O’Sullivan (Central European University Press; £18.99) Eastern European wanderings of the famous British war hero and travel writer.…

GETTING THERE The train from London Euston to Bangor takes just over three hours. It’s then 20 minutes by taxi to Snowdonia National Park. www.thetrainline.com WHERE TO STAY From cosy Salem Chapel Bed & Breakfast it’s just a five-minute drive to two summit footpaths. Penmachno Hall, a Victorian country house in Betws-y-Coed, is a grander option. www.salemchapelbb.co.uk; www.penmachnohall.co.uk WHERE TO EAT Bryn Williams at Porth Eirias, Colwyn Bay, holds a Bib Gourmand from Michelin. Castle Cottage in Harlech, overlooking Harlech Castle, prides itself on using local ingredients. For character, head to Pen-Y-Gwryd in Gwynedd – the inn used by Sir Edmund Hillary and the Everest team as a training base in 1953. www.portheirias.com; www.castlecottageharlech.co.uk; www.pyg.co.uk WHAT TO DO Snowdon The highest mountain in the country. The Snowdon Mountain Railway runs…

Northern Ireland may have the Giant’s Causeway, Wales its mountains and Scotland its glens, but it’s hard to imagine any geographical phenomenon that sums up ‘England’ more than the White Cliffs of Dover. Their dazzling chalk bluffs, haunted by the melancholy cry of seabirds and almost 2,000 years-worth of ghosts are the last thing we see as we leave the country and the first thing we encounter when we return. They have also been, of course, the first thing witnessed by would-be invaders. Dover has always loomed large in times of war. Formed of calcium carbonate – essentially the skeletal remains of millions of prehistoric, planktonic algae – the cliffs stay white because they are allowed to erode naturally, at about 1cm a year. If they were protected by man-made…

GETTING THERE Virgin Trains run from London Euston to Manchester (2 hours) every 20 minutes, from where there’s a twice hourly train to Buxton (1 hour). Alternatively, fly from London Heathrow to Manchester (1 hour 10 minutes) and take trains or buses from there. www.thetrainline.com; www.britishairways.com EAT, DRINK, SLEEP Relax and enjoy morning coffee, lunch or a traditional afternoon tea in the elegant surroundings of No. 6 The Square tea rooms. Dine in the elegant restaurant of the Old Hall Hotel, reputed to be the oldest hotel in England, built by Bess of Hardwick (p44), then spend the night in one of the charming bedrooms. www.no6tearooms.co.uk, www.oldhallhotelbuxton.co.uk FURTHER INFORMATION www.visitpeakdistrict.com…

Salisbury is often seen as a place to break a car journey on the way to Stonehenge, but the picturesque city is well worth a visit in its own right. A ‘city in the countryside’, it offers the best of both worlds. The charming historic centre is abuzz with things to do, but it’s perfectly situated so you can easily escape to a more tranquil setting. Salisbury sits at the point where five rivers meet – the Nadder, Ebble, Wylye, Bourne and Avon. Walk in the footsteps of artist John Constable, who famously painted the cathedral city surrounded by water meadows, or venture further afield for beautiful Wiltshire landscapes. Salisbury Cathedral is the city’s main attraction. Discover over 750 years of history at this stunning medieval building and marvel at…

Samuel Johnson was a tall, ungainly man, shabby and twitchy. He was also one of the greatest literary figures of the 18th century, compiling the most popular English dictionary until the Oxford English Dictionary 150 years later. A Dictionary of the English Language took a cluster of collaborators eight years to put together. On one reading, Johnson was the man to lead the charge. Born in 1709 in Lichfield, Staffordshire, he grew up above his father’s bookshop. A clever child, he excelled at Latin – he even dreamt in it. Johnson later went up to Pembroke College, Oxford, before becoming a teacher and journalist. His dictionary, published in 1755, captured the attention of George III, who granted him a pension of £300. He mixed in important circles. Johnson befriended James…

Yeoman Warders – nicknamed Beefeaters – are the ceremonial guardians of the Tower of London and still swear allegiance to the Queen. In addition to manning the Tower and all things within it, they have been historically responsible for the supervision of State Prisoners. In modern times, Beefeaters lead tours of the Tower, present lectures and are on hand to answer visitors’ questions. Chief Yeoman Warder, Pete McGowran, gives us a glimpse of what life is like as a resident and guardian of the Tower of London. Yeoman Warders – nicknamed Beefeaters – are the ceremonial guardians of the Tower of London and still swear allegiance to the Queen. In addition to manning the Tower and all things within it, they have been historically responsible for the supervision of State…

Do your research Some vineyards are open daily, while others arrange tours only with groups – always check in advance. The www.winecellardoor.co.uk website and app are invaluable, with a map and directory of every vineyard open to visitors in England and Wales. Take a tour There are great suggestions for Kentish vineyard itineraries at www.winegardenofengland.co.uk, while English Wine Tasting Tours (www.englishwinetastingtours.co.uk) offer trips to both Kent and Sussex, and Hampshire Wine Tours (www.hampshiretours.net) run bespoke trips to Hampshire’s vineyards. Insider’s tips Elisabeth’s suggestions for making the most out of your vineyard visit: • The new-found confidence in our wines is working well with the burgeoning local food scene, with some producers offering specially created meals with wine pairings, served at the winery. These events are definitely worth looking out for.…

LIME WOOD An imposing country-house hotel that has plenty of grand style, without the stuffiness. www.limewoodhotel.co.uk THE PIG This appealingly laid-back shabby-chic hotel has a fantastic kitchen garden and serious foodie credentials. www.thepighotel.com BURLEY MANOR Overlooking a deer park, this hotel has a wonderful Mediterranean-themed restaurant and a bijou spa. www.burleymanor.com CHEWTON GLEN Tip-top service, stunning rooms and an award-winning restaurant make this old-timer hard to beat. www.chewtonglen.com THE MANOR AT SWAY Stylish rooms with period details such as Bakelite phones, plus fine British food. www.themanoratsway.com THE MONTAGU ARMS A smart and sophisticated retreat with faultless service and a pretty garden. www.montaguarmshotel.co.uk…