Innehållsförteckning för Spring 2022 från Dazed & Confused

Building this issue around the new season was a challenge for several reasons. I often find the experience reinvigorating in its nature, but with a burgeoning season marred by monumental losses, it was necessary to reflect. Our new heritage issue examines the topic of our shared history – the ways in which it binds us, and potentially opens up new paths for the future. What we finally felt, in light of these losses, was an overarching sense of hope. A future crafted on the foundations laid by André Leon Talley, and with the endless possibilities championed by my friend and collaborator, Virgil Abloh. What was so special about Virgil was his mission to create spaces in which ideas could flourish. This was the foundation not only of our own work…

In 1998, Swiss watch company Swatch, working in collaboration with MIT Media Lab, pitched an unorthodox idea: to abolish real-world time and replace it with an internet-friendly time system without the need for multiple time zones. This Swatch Internet Time would not be measured by the sun and moon, but rather 1000 ‘beats’, each lasting one minute and 26.4 seconds, per day. Rather than being located at the Royal Greenwich Observatory in London, Swatch based their newly created global meridian in their headquarters in Biel, Switzerland. “Cyberspace has no seasons and no night and day,” declared MIT Media Lab founder Nicholas Negroponte. “Internet Time is absolute time for everybody. Internet Time is not geopolitical. It is global. In the future, for many people, real time will be Internet Time.” Emerging…

Hair OLIVIER SCHAWALDER at BRYANT ARTISTS, make-up MIN KIM at STREETERS, nails HANAÉ GOUMRI at THE WALL GROUP, models VERA FROMMELT at ANTIAGENCY, DANNI SPOONER at CRUMB AGENCY, SASHA MUHORAKEYE at LIS RUTTEN, ZIA KNIVES, TARA BHAT, set design JUSTINE PONTHIEUX at CLM, photographic assistants PAUL JEDWAB, PETER KEYSER, LUCAS MATHON, styling assistants IOANA IVAN, SARA MARIA PERILLI, CHRISTELLE OWONA NISIN, hair assistant DAMIEN LACOUSSADE, make-up assistant BÉATRICE HANG CHING, nails assistant REIKO ENDO, set design assistant CLÉMENTINE DEBRAY, digital operator NICO FALELT at D FACTORY, digital assistant DOUGLAS ELIAC, production TOWN PRODUCTIONS, casting JULIA LANGE at ARTISTRY…

I’ve known Mustafa the Poet, now known simply as Mustafa, for a long time. A lot of people do. If you’re from Toronto – the chronically misunderstood city we’re both from – it’s hard not to know each other, or at least of each other. It would be especially strange, as Torontonians, to not know (or notice) someone on the brink of something great, maybe even bigger than them. Like others from our city, Mustafa is on that list. But unlike others from our city, Mustafa’s been on that brink (or precipice) for a long, long time. Now, we’re finally watching him bloom. On When Smoke Rises – his eight-track, 24-minute-long debut album – he sings about his foundation: his people, his ends and, most notably, his friends. Working within…

Dialling into our call under the name ‘iPhone John’, John Glacier is coy at first, shadowy as she was onstage at Corsica Studios last year on a bill next to Dean Blunt, Klein and Vegyn, her regular producer. She often seems immersed in her own atmosphere in live situations like these: eyes closed, head down, mic held close, enveloped in a crouch. It doesn’t take long for the ice to break, and ten minutes into our conversation iPhone John loosens into the Glacier we hear on record, whose bars stitch and twist over mutant boom-bap. The heat of Glacier’s debut LP SHILOH: Lost for Words spread like the best kind of gossip when it dropped in July. Just like the London-born rapper’s biography, it’s an album caught somewhere in the…

Hair ASIA CLARK, make-up MASAE ITO, models AKOSUA ATTAKORA, AKWELE MENSAH, BETTY ABLEMA, MAYA DIALLO, BRIGGITTE APPIAH, EUGENIA OTOO, WILHEMINA WOODE, MABEL, YINE PUGBILA, lighting IBRAHIM YAKUBU, photographic assistant JOHN NII COMMEY TETTEH, styling assistant JUDE LARTEY, makeup assistant ROSE at SO AESTHETICS, production LUDU PRODUCTIONS, production NII CLOTTEY, production assistant FRANCIS DOTSE, post-production INK RETOUCH, casting EVANS MENSAH…

“The loudest story always silences the other voices around it,” observes an unnamed narrator in Korakrit Arunanondchai’s four-chapter cinematic incantation Songs for Dying (2021). As the camera switches between panoramic views of past Thai kings on a Bangkok government building, footage of protest marches and the prehistoric sanctuary of Göbekeli Tepe, Turkey – the oldest temple ever discovered – the film and its reciprocal counterpart, Songs for Living, draw us in into the splintered, cyclical narrative of life, death, memory and rebirth. In Arunanondchai’s chimerical world-building, everything is a story – including time itself. Ideologies, belief systems and cognitive structures attempting to make sense of materiality are fictions we experience collectively. And, in excavating and retelling these stories, the figure of the artist finds its purpose. In Thailand, storytelling is…

# 1017 ALYX 9SM alyxstudio.com A ABRAabra.parisACNE STUDIOSacnestudios.comADAM JONESadamjones.studioALESSANDRA RICHalessandrarich.comALEXANDER MCQUEENalexandermcqueen.comALEXANDRE VAUTHIERalexandrevauthier.comALIOU JANHA@ali.ou.est.tuAMBUSHambushdesign.comAMINA MUADDIaminamuaddi.comANCUTA SARCA@ancutasarcaANDREADAMOandreaadamo.itANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOODviviennewestwood.comANIYE BYaniyeby.comANN DEMEULEMEESTERanndemeulemeester.comARTURO OBEGEROarturoobegero.comAZ FACTORYazfactory.com B BALENCIAGAbalenciaga.comBALMAINbalmain.comBLESSbless-service.deBLUMARINEblumarine.comBOTTEGA VENETAbottegaveneta.comBOTTERbotter.worldBURBERRYburberry.comBY ALONAbyalona.com C CALZEDONIAcalzedonia.comCARRERAcarreraworld.comCARTIERcartier.comCHANELchanel.comCHOPOVA LOWENAchopovalowena.comCHRISTOPHER KANEchristopherkane.comCOMME DES GARÇONS HOMME PLUSlondon.doverstreetmarket.comCONTEMPORARY WARDROBEcontemporarywardrobe.comCOPERNIcoperniparis.comCOURRÈGEScourreges.com D D’HEYGÈREdheygere.comDAMMIT TOKYO@dammit_tokyo DAVID KOMAdavidkoma.comDE PINO@_de_pino DIESELuk.diesel.comDINGYUN ZHANG@dingyun_zhang DIORdior.comDOLCE & GABBANAdolcegabbana.comDR.CREATUR3creaturefeatur3.co.ukDR. MARTENSdrmartens.comDRIES VAN NOTENdriesvannoten.comDSQUARED2 dsquared2.com E ELLIOT RHODESelliotrhodes.comEMMA BREWINemmabrewin.comEMPORIO ARMANIarmani.com F FALKEfalke.comFENDIfendi.comFIFI CHACHNILfifichachnil.parisFILAfila.co.uk G GCDSgcds.itGEORGES WENDELLgeorgeswendellparis.comGIUSEPPE ZANOTTIgiuseppezanotti.comGIVENCHYgivenchy.comGUCCIgucci.comGUESSguess.eu H HANDSOME STOCKHOLMhandsomestockholm.comHANNAH MARTINhannahmartinlondon.comHIZUMEhizume.comHODAKOVAhodakova.comHUGO BOSShugoboss.comHUGO KREIThugokreit.com I ISA BOULDERisaboulder.comISSEY MIYAKEuk-store.isseymiyake.com J JAKKEjakke.co.ukJAMES PINK STUDIOjamespinkstudio.comJEAN-PAUL GAULTIERjeanpaulgaultier.comJIL SANDERjilsander.comJOHN GALLIANO ARCHIVESobcm.netJUSTINE CLENQUETjustineclenquet.comJW ANDERSONjwanderson.com K KIKO KOSTADINOVkikokostadinov.comKNWLScharlotteknowles.com L LANVINlanvin.comLOEWEloewe.comLORETTE COLÉ DUPRATlorettecoleduprat.comLORO PIANAuk.loropiana.comLOUIS VUITTONlouisvuitton.comLUTZ HUELLElutzhuelle.com M MADAME LA DARONNE@madameladaronneMAISON DAVIDE BAZZERLA@maisondavidebazzerlaMAISON MARGIELAmaisonmargiela.comMARGARET HOWELLmargarethowell.co.ukMARINE SERREmarineserre.comMARNImarni.comMARSÈLLmarsell.itMARTINE ROSEmartine-rose.comMELITTA BAUMEISTER@melittabaumeister MIFIGmifig.bizMISCREANTSmiscreantslondon.comMIU MIUmiumiu.comMOLLY GODDARDlondon.doverstreetmarket.comMONCLERmoncler.comMOSCHINOmoschino.com N NASIR MAZHAR@nasirmazharNENSI DOJAKA@nensidojaka P PALACE SKATEBOARDSpalaceskateboards.comPANCONESImarcopanconesi.comPARIS TEXASparistexas.itPATOUintl.patou.comPAUL SMITHpaulsmith.comPAULA ROWANpaularowan.comPEBBLE LONDONpebblelondon.comPENCE 1979pence1979.comPHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINIphilosophyofficial.comPINKOpinko.comPRADAprada.com R RAF SIMONSrafsimons.comRASHHIIIDrashhiiid.comRE/DONEshopredone.euRELLIKrelliklondon.co.ukREPOSSIrepossi.comREWIND VINTAGE AFFAIRSrewindvintage.co.ukRICHARD QUINNrichardquinn.comRICK OWENSrickowens.euROGER VIVIERrogervivier.comROSANTICArosantica.com…

The way hair and beauty looks are interpreted and disseminated now is different from at any other time in history. Historically speaking, hairstyles have always been loaded with symbolism and personal meaning – usually bearing cultural and/or political significance for a particular demographic. In the 1960s, the skinhead subculture emerged in the UK as an emblem of working-class solidarity. Across the Atlantic in the same decade, the civil rights movement was gaining traction and the afro fast became a visual marker of Black pride as part of the natural hair movement. From European aristocrats sporting wigs to signal their upper-class status in the 18th century to the religious connotations of dreadlocks for Rastafarians, the reasons behind different hairstyles throughout time have been manifold. But how have these styles been interpreted…

When Virgil Abloh died in late November 2021, much of the international outpouring of grief focused on his creative mind. He was one of his generation’s great innovators, a civil engineering undergraduate from Chicago who conquered the heights of luxury fashion and broke down barriers for other Black creatives in the process. But what people didn’t talk about, at least not nearly as much, was his right brain – his ability to fuse strategy with creativity, to look at ideas as bricks to shuffle around, be replaced, thrown out and reordered. In many respects, his ability to consciously confound narratives became more important to his designs, or his DJ sets, than his cerebral shades: architecture informed his solo Off-White designs; streetwear was treated as a luxury item; handbags were treated…

Hair SARAH JO PALMER at MA+ TALENT, makeup THOMASIN WAITE at JULIAN WATSON AGENCY using GUCCI BEAUTY, nails LAUREN MICHELLE PIRES at FUTURE REP, models TARA at IMG, RAYNARA at THE SQUAD, ADIT at STORM, SKARLA and SEOHYUN at SELECT, MAANSI at ESTABLISHED MODELS, set design SAMUEL OVERS at NEW SCHOOL, photographic assistants MAX GLATZHOFER, DAN DOUGLASS, SEAN MORROW, digital technician SAM HEARN, styling assistants MIRKO PEDONE, ANDRAAMELIA BUHAI, FELIX PARADZA, CARI LIMA, ELEONORA DAL BOSCO, hair assistants CHARLES STANLEY, TOMMY STAYTON, KARLENE ROSE, make-up assistants KIMIE YASHIRO, MARI KUNO, nails assistant AMI RAI, set design assistant MITCHELL FENN, on-set production CLAIRE BURMAN at CEBE STUDIO, production assistants FREYA REEVES, MARTHA BARR, post-production HELEN STUDIOS, casting MISCHA NOTCUTT at 11 CASTIN18G7…

Hair and make-up HARUKA TAZAKI, models GENDAI at FRIDAY, HANATAROU, KIEN and LUCIA at PUMP, NOSERLN at OYB CLUB, styling assistants SATOSHI TAKANO, SAKURA WATANABE, TAKUMA FUJIWARA, casting TAKA ARAKAWA…

TEXT LINA BEMBE “We’re seeing more Black and brown sex workers creating spaces for themselves and putting their energy into creative and theoretical work. Hopefully, later generations will find we are all screaming into the void: ‘We are here!’” Erica Kane, AKA Rebelle Cunt, is the brains behind the Heaux History Project, a Chicago-based, broadly international network of sex workers, indie scholars, archivists, graphic artists, musicians, filmmakers and writers determined to track down and unearth the forgotten histories of Black, brown and indigenous sex work. “Hoes are creating zines, novels, comics; [they’re] publishing articles, teaching classes, leading and spearheading community events, and attaching mutual aid to their efforts,” says Kane of the groundswell for historical accuracy, and change. Just a cursory glance at Heaux History’s social channels reveals research that…

Models RAKIB, JEROME, YUNUS, styling assistant MARK MUTYAMBIZI…

Tenzing is wedged in the bow of a small boat slowly being steered across a quiet, foggy lake. A yellow lifejacket is cinched around his torso and a bulky camera weighs on his neck, threatening to topple him forward at any moment. He lives in the remote hills of the Himalayas, but today, Tenzing could be on top of the world. At six years old, he’s the youngest photographer to shoot for Dazed. Tenzing is one of 100 kids who appeared on Apple TV+’s Becoming You, a six-part series exploring how the first 2,000 days of life on Earth influence a person’s story. We meet Tenzing in episode one, “Who Am I?”, which looks at the evolution of a child’s identity. Tenzing was three when it was made, and, according…

Hair ISSAC POLEON at CLM, make-up BEA SWEET at CLM, nails SIMONE CUMMINGS at CLM, models HEATHER WRIGHT-PURCELL, EMMIE MORRIS, CATHAL MCVANN, IBRAHEEM ANWAR, MARCIELLA CARR, DESTINY SAIWALA, LUCY SAVAGE, KAVEENASH SANJEEVAN PRABAGARAN, SPENCER GRIMSHAW, JUVI NDUBISI OKORIE, DECLAN BRIAN, set design KING OSUWU, photographic assistants MESHACH FALCONER-ROBERTS, JORDAN LEE, styling assistants JADE HENNESSEY, KENDALL BLAIR, hair assistants BATU OLGOMIS, TSUYOSHI TAMAI, make-up assistants DAISY MOORE, CAMERON MORLEY, set design assistants CHARLOTTE COOK, production LS PRODUCTIONS, casting MADELEINE ØSTILE for AAMØ at CLM…

Late last summer, the invitations to Marni’s spring/summer 2022 show began landing in the inboxes of editors and buyers. But there was an unusual request attached: every attendee was invited to visit the brand’s ateliers in the days leading up to the show, where they would be fitted in a full Marni look. “We went back and forth a lot discussing whether or not to do it,” says creative director Francesco Risso. “But after two years had passed, and we were coming back to the physical realm, it just felt right. I remember returning from my summer holidays and having this moment of… not panic, I don’t think, but certainly a state of fear. Like, is everybody actually going to wear Marni? I told some of my friends and they…

Hair CYNDIA HARVEY at ART PARTNER, make-up AMMY DRAMMEH at BRYANT ARTISTS using CHARLOTTE TILBURY, nails LAUREN MICHELLE PIRES at FUTURE REP using CHANEL LA BASE PROTECTIVE AND SMOOTHING and CHANEL LA CRÈME MAIN, models ASHA MOHAMUD at NEXT, CHIARA at STORM, ZAYNAB BELLKHDAR at STORM, VIVIAN at VIVA, HUMI at MODELS 1, AMER WAL ATHIU at MILK, FIKRAT KIRKLAND and NONSO OJUKWU at ELITE, GIRISH at KULT, INÈS MICHELOTTO, set design AFRA ZAMARA at SECOND NAME, photography assistants MAX GLATZHOFER, ADAM ROBERTS, styling assistants MIRKO PEDONE, FELIX PARADZA, ANDRA-AMELIA BUHAI, CARI LIMA, KATIE DULIEU, hair assistants EMILIE ROSE BROMLEY, ANNAKAY SIMPSON, KAREN BRADSHAW, MURIEL COLE, WAYNE SHORTER-CAMPBELL, make-up assistants ELISE PRIESTLEY, MARI KUNO, ISABEL SEO, nails assistant ELLA VIVII, set design assistants TOM HOPE, TOMMASO CASSANI, digital operator KADARÉ…

TEXT AMELIA ABRAHAM Ever been down a Wikipedia, TikTok or Instagram wormhole? Of course you have. The same thing can happen with books; in fact, it’s how London-based literary zine Worms was born. Founder Clem Macleod was reading the works of late postmodernist writer Kathy Acker when she chanced upon her biography, written by I Love Dick author Chris Kraus. Exploring some of the books published by Kraus’s LA-based indie publisher, Semiotext(e)/Native Agents, Macleod got switched on to writers like Natasha Stagg and Stephanie LaCava, it-girls of alt lit who segued from fashion writing to fiction. If the six degrees of separation holds that everyone in the world can be linked through no more than six people, within indie publishing it’s more like one or two. Macleod wanted a place…

Hair SAGNSE OFFICIEL, make-up GABY AYIMELE, models KATHIA NDONG at AMY MGMT, GRACE NGUZI DIAOUNE at AMY MGMT and METROPOLITAN PARIS, HASSANATOU DRAME, SOPHIA MAKIBDJI, photographic assistants CLEMENT DAUVENT, ABDOU FARIS, styling assistants NELLY CARLE, AGNÈS EVE VADI, casting MIA DABROWSKI, special thanks ALIOUNE CARRERE, ASSANE SALL, VILLA KOTÉ OCEAN…