Innehållsförteckning för September 2023 från Decanter

What a tangled web An email arrived in my inbox the other day which contained the incisive question ‘do Decanter have an online section?’. Grammar aside, it’s an interesting point, albeit one which could be answered via the internet in about three seconds. We do indeed have an online section. Or, in fact, two. Or maybe more. That question is harder to answer than one might think. So I’ll try to explain, briefly what we get up to online and how it all fits together. Our main website lives at Decanter.com – ably edited by Lisa and Elie, that’s where you go for breaking news, everyday wines, general knowhow, travel, food and so on. If you’re really serious about wine, though, you’ll want to buy a subscription (incredibly good value)…

The landscape of price and quality in wine was always undulating. It had peaks and summits as well as lowlands. Access, though, was open; we had the right to roam. Most of us could make our way out of the valleys and strike off up the slopes occasionally. In the last 20 years, that landscape has changed. The finest wines are now luxury goods: tokens of exclusivity. Exclusivity means exclusion. The high peaks are sealed off by fencing; only extraordinary wealth will get you through the gates. What used to be said of yachts (to move our metaphor offshore) is now true of grand cru Burgundy or luxury Champagne. If you have to ask how much it costs, you can’t afford it. Is there any duty on fine-wine producers to…

Any discussion of viticulture in Argentina will inevitably include the Andes and the effect of high-altitude landscapes on the country’s wines, especially Malbecs. The intense, flavourful character that red wines develop in this South American country is a direct result of the arid, sunny terroirs that can be found in the Andean foothills. Over the past 20 years, however, wine-growers and oenologists have been working hard to better understand the effects of high-altitude terroirs. This has led to a striking evolution in the wines being produced. Many have come to the conclusion that vineyard plantings need to go even higher up the mountains to obtain fresher, more precise styles. Hence the term ‘High-Altitude Malbec’ has come into vogue, in order to differentiate the refined but vibrant wines made at these…

White beaches, Amazon rainforests, Rio carnival, football. It’s fair to say that wine isn’t the first thing that springs to mind when you think of Brazil. But this vast country is making significant headway into the global wine scene. The beginning of Brazil’s wine story isn’t an auspicious one. Although vines first arrived in 1532 with Portuguese explorer Martim Afonso de Sousa, early plantings failed. It wasn’t until Brazil gained independence from Portugal in 1822 – amove that coincided with a gold rush and subsequent flood of European immigration – that wine culture took root. The most significant contribution was made by Italians, who were offered land in southern Brazil in the mid-1870s and settled around Serra Gaúcha and Bento Gonçalves – an area that’s reminiscent of Italy’s Piedmont. The…

Durigutti Family Winemakers was founded in 2002, when brothers Pablo and Héctor Durigutti realised their long-held dream of starting a family winery. At the time, the Mendozan winemakers were rising stars in a wine scene dominated by large wineries. Their success gave them the courage to strike out on their own and they soon made a name for themselves as experts on Malbec and leading producers in Luján de Cuyo – ahistoric region in Mendoza where they became guardians of an invaluable viticultural heritage. This approach also won them considerable international recognition early on in their journey. Interpreters of their heritage Unquestionably, the most significant landmark in the story of Durigutti Family Winemakers was their purchase in 2007 of an old vineyard in the Geographic Indication of Las Compuertas, which…

Theideal environment for enjoying well-aged Burgundy wine is quite often at home. The wine’s cellar conditions, provenance and service are assured and – given current market prices for Burgundy – it’s bound to be a bargain if you’ve cellared it yourself. These advantages beg the question, however, of what to cook to accompany it. I recently set out to experiment with friends in our apartment building. I love to cook. My wife and I met while studying at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris 30 years ago. I finished a few internships at Michelin-starred establishments in Paris and worked as a chef for 13 years in California, the Caribbean and Boston before hanging up my toque to pursue a career in wine in New York City. Despite taking on amateur status,…

I still remember the boring, high-yield Cabernet Franc that characterised the grape’s presence on the market just a decade ago. This grape variety was largely unfamiliar to consumers, and typically used in small percentages to complete a blend of better known international grapes. It is one of the grapes that was underestimated in the past, for sure – but is now becoming fashionable. And that is something to be thankful for! Inevitably, Cabernet Franc has been overshadowed by the more famous Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes in Bordeaux, where it is added into many blends to amplify a wine’s freshness and tannins. But it is the star of the show when vinified alone, as in the Loire appellations of Chinon or Saumur. You’ll also come across varietal examples from the…

Cabernet Franc is undoubtedly a rising star of the Americas. Although still niche, it has been steadily rising in the ranks and playing a greater role in each of the major wine countries. Its leafy, peppery, fresh, fragrant style can offer the ideal counterpart to the richer styles of heavyweight champion varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Tannat and Merlot. This tasting was a fantastic opportunity to take the pulse of what is becoming a very exciting category across both continents. Of the 149 entries, more than 44% scored 90 points or above – a rather impressive result, given how new the boom in Cabernet Franc is. ‘It was a great performance which showed really excellent quality and value,’ said Ben Gubbins. ‘It was very interesting to see the breadth…

Like opening the windows to let in the cool ocean breeze: that has been the effect that new vineyards in Maldonado Bay – the point on the southern coast where the Rio de la Plata estuary meets the south Atlantic – have had on Uruguayan wine. The region now produces whites and reds from vines no more than 20 years old, all influenced by the fresh presence of the Atlantic. Not only have these newcomers started to overshadow the classic zones, but importantly they have also attracted increased attention to a country that until recently was hidden in the long shadows of Argentina and Chile. These two are the most important wineproducing countries in South America, both in quality and volume. Tiny Uruguay, with a little less than 6,000ha of…

Greek growers are the special forces of the wine world. Armed with varieties tough enough to thrive in near-drought conditions, deploying a sense of self-reliance by specialising in small-scale, low-intervention winemaking, equipped with canny thriftiness and honouring the alliance of wine with food, these quietly confident wine-growers are the perfect specialists to lead the world of wine in the face of both economic hardship and climate emergency. After the annual Greek wine fair Oenorama in March, I darted from Athens to Central Greece to the Valley of the Muses before swooping down to eastern Crete. The surging feeling of energy across the Greek wine scene is so potent right now that if you offered me a Greek passport I’d change my name to Giorgos in a heartbeat. From the front…

Winemakers in South America are embarking on a new era – one of quiet self-confidence and curious self-discovery, bringing forth some of the most exciting and individual wines yet. Distinctive regional personality is at the core of this new movement and it highlights a strong departure from the varietal- and style-driven wines that dominated the South American wine scene in the early 2000s. As the role and influence of foreign consultants diminishes, there’s a new breed of ‘flying winemakers’ on the ascent – natives who are shaping the wines and industry in South America, and beyond. EARLY LESSONS LEARNED South America’s wine industry has been moulded by immigration and intercultural exchange for centuries, but the 1990s and early 2000s witnessed a seismic shift in winemaking technology and viticulture which brought…

Founded by Don Valentín Bianchi in 1928, Bodegas Bianchi, ’la pequeña bodega de los grandes vinos’ (the little winery of great wines), is now one of the largest and most renowned producers in Mendoza. Nurturing a legacy Today, the responsibility of continuing Don Valentin’s legacy into the future falls to the fourth generation of the family – and they are meeting the challenge with sustainable, innovative strategies and a firm commitment to protecting the environment. As part of the winery’s long-term plans, the fourth generation is overseeing the family’s first enterprise in San Rafael, a historic bastion of viticulture in the Uco Valley of southern Mendoza: a new chapter in the history of a winery that will soon celebrate its hundredth anniversary. It was here that, in 2017, the Bianchi…

WHAT TO DRINK NOW… BetweentheSheets With its seductive name, Between the Sheets was a signature cocktail of the Jazz Age. Its origins are disputed and there’s considerable variation between the oldest recipes, though it probably originated in a New York speakeasy during Prohibition. The first printed recipe, in Frank Shay’s 1929 book Drawn from the Wood, calls for equal parts gin, Bacardi rum and Cointreau. It’s likely that when the recipe travelled to Europe, Cognac and lemon juice were added to create a mix more reminiscent of a Sidecar. Try it with Ron Santiago de Cuba Carta Blanca (Alc 38%, £17.95- £22.40/70cl Amathus Drinks, Master of Malt, The Vine Whisperer, The Whisky Exchange, The Whisky World), a versatile and wellrounded Cuban rum for cocktails. BETWEEN THE SHEETS Glass Coupe Garnish…

THE GUARANTEE See page 147 This month’s tastings 118 EDITORS’ PICKS Decanter’s editorial team share highlights and discoveries from their latest tastings 120 AMERICAN CABERNET FRANC 149 wines tasted Stylistic diversity in this great line-up from North & South America 136 US CHARDONNAY 105 wines tasted Cooler sites performed better in this impressive tasting. Nine Outstanding wines 148 URUGUAY There’s more to the country than Tannat, as shown by Patricio Tapia’s pick of 18 wines 153 WEEKDAY WINES 25 picks under £20: from a South African skin-contact Chenin to an orange wine from Georgia, and nine great-value reds 156 WEEKEND WINES Seven at £20-£50: including a fascinating US blend of eight red and white varieties Want more? Decanter.com/premium has full notes for panel tastings, plus exclusive tasting reports, scores and…

Establishing a new winery’s reputation can take years. Turning a remote region into one of the most important terroirs in the world, decades. However, with Sophenia, Roberto Luka has demonstrated that with a solid plan, and plenty of determination and belief in one’s ability to make exceptional wines, It’s possible to achieve extremely impressive results. Working from Gualtallary in the Uco Valley, Mendoza, in just 25 years Luka pioneered the planting of vineyards, built the first winery in the region, and turned his family winery into a beacon of success on the Argentine wine scene. The dream of unique wines After running one of the most famous wineries in Argentina for 15 years, Luka decided to embark on his own project in Gualtallary, and founded Sophenia with his best friend,…

Sponsored by BORDEAUX INDEX Fine Wines & Spirits Slow economy holds market back Macroeconomic headwinds may continue to hinder fine wine market momentum going into autumn, according to a new Knight Frank The Wealth Report on luxury investments. A wine market slowdown tempered growth for Knight Frank’s Luxury Investment Index in the 12 months to 30 June, ‘proving that even tangible assets are not immune to market uncertainty’. Knight Frank’s fine wine icons index, compiled by Wine Owners, still rose 5% in 12 months to the end of June, but was flat in 2023. ‘The heightened cost of capital may well act as a drag on blue-chip fine wine markets for the rest of 2023,’ said Nick Martin, Wine Owners founder, in the report. ‘If wine markets are looking toppy…

Weather set to knock Italy off its No1 producer spot Extreme weather has jeopardised Italy’s status as the world’s biggest wine producer, according to one forecast of 2023 harvest size, as winemakers across the northern hemisphere size up prospects for their new vintage. Italy was set to produce approximately 43 million hectolitres (4.3bn litres) of wine in 2023, down 14% on last year, said farming group Coldiretti in an initial August forecast. Extreme weather linked to climate change, from storms to intense heat, significantly impacted some producers’ potential grape harvest in central and southern regions, it said. The 2023 harvest could join 1948, 2007 and 2017 as one of Italy’s smallest in the last century, said Coldiretti, although quality was still expected to be high. A lot can change in…

The character of Asti DOCG wines reflects, with particular fidelity, the essence of the landscape they hail from and the spirit of the people who craft them: refined yet approachable, unpretentious yet sophisticated. The region truly comes to life in late summer and autumn, while the harvest is in full swing and countless cultural and gastronomic events are taking place. Nestled in the heart of Piedmont, the Asti comune is the perfect destination for lovers of food, wine, history and nature, eager to enjoy authentic experiences hosted by people who are, above all, passionate about the beauty and richness of their land and heritage – without ever losing a sense of fun! Exploring a unique landscape At the centre of the Asti comune is the town itself. Its picturesque centre…

In the 1960s, Viognier nearly died out completely. Many Decanter readers would be horrified by this scenario, but certainly not all – it is, after all, one of the most divisive of grapes. Its birthplace is Condrieu, and the new president of the appellation, Pierre-Jean Villa, is under no illusions. ‘People either like it or they don’t.’ he says. ‘It’s not universally enjoyed like Chardonnay.’ But those that like it, love it. To him, ‘Condrieu is magic – but fragile’. In the face of climate change, he’s helping a new generation of winemakers adapt their winemaking to create a fresher style of wine. FOUNDING FATHER Today there are more than 16,000ha of Viognier grown around the globe (source: ‘Which Winegrape Varieties are Grown Where?’, Anderson & Nelgen, revised edition 2020),…

Good wine is something to celebrate but as any wine lover knows, good wine just gets better with age, so proper storage is vitally important. Keeping wine in a higgledy-piggledy heap in the corner of a garage or squeezed next to the shoe rack under the stairs just won’t do. It won’t give the wine the chance to mellow and develop to its true potential. The truth is that a modern ‘wine cellar’ is not merely a storage space – it is a library of liquid pleasures that you wish to share with wineappreciating family and friends, and which is precisely why your wine should take pride of place in your home. That’s where EuroCave comes in. They are experts in the art of combining beauty, quality and authenticity, when…

Ask Decanter Each month our experts answer your burning wine questions. Email your questions to editor@decanter.com WHEN BEST TO ENJOY EN RAMA Is it true that the en rama style of Sherry should always be drunk as young as possible for maximum enjoyment? Dermot Keane, by email Sarah Jane Evans MW, DWWA Co-Chair and joint Regional Chair for Spain, replies: Briefly, yes – but also, no. The great pleasure of visiting a Sherry bodega is being able to taste the wine at its freshest, directly from the butt. When a Sherry is termed ‘en rama’, it is intended to be the closest one can get to that experience. Before bottling, biologically aged Sherries (those aged under a layer of flor yeast) are filtered. The question for the producer is: just…

La Place de Bordeaux is one of the world’s most famous wine distribution hubs, and its négociants, or trading houses, have played a central role in the international wine trade for centuries. While this has mostly served to ensure the availability and prestige of top Bordeaux estates, from Médoc to St-Emilion, today’s La Place increasingly handles fine wines from other parts of France, and the globe. International fine wine releases via La Place de Bordeaux are providing more opportunities for collectors to expand their horizons, but it’s still early days for many La Place-released labels on the secondary market (see p162). More than 100 international fine wines are now part of the September ‘beyond Bordeaux’ release season run by the city’s famous négociants. Historic and vaunted California names sit alongside…