Innehållsförteckning för April 2016 från Decanter

US ‘drinking less but better in 2016’ USA Wine consumers in the US are set to drink less but better in 2016, with the first decline in wine consumption in the country for more than 20 years predicted by Silicon Valley Bank (SVB). The 15th Silicon Valley Bank State of the Wine Industry report from SVB’s wine division forecasts a 9%-13% rise in fine wine (above $20/bottle) sales this year – but predicts that sales of wine priced below $8 will fall. Sales of wine priced above $10 are expected to rise by 4%-8%, while imported bottled wine is set to resume its erosion of domestic fine wine’s market share, the report forecasts. ‘While demand for premium wine will increase this year, there are clouds on the horizon to be…

Andrew Jefford ‘Perhaps the vine is a genius… embodying its ‘knowledge’ in its fruit?’ THE INTRIGUING IF controversial topic of ‘plant intelligence’ will one day, I hope, have much to contribute to wine knowledge and in particular terroir studies. It’s controversial because plants such as vines don’t have brains, so many scientists regard the use of the term ‘intelligence’ in this context as inappropriate. Even advocates of plant intelligence (like Stefano Mancuso, who directs the International Laboratory of Plant Neurobiology in Florence, and who has co-written an accessible introduction to the subject called Brilliant Green) admit that the term either has to be seen as metaphorical, or that it requires us to redefine intelligence. We’d have to cease to see intelligence as related to reasoning or understanding, in other words,…

The judges Stephen Brook Brook has been a contributing editor to Decanter since 1996 and has won a clutch of awards for his writing on wine. The author of more than 30 books, his works include The Complete Bordeaux, now the definitive study of the region. Brooks’ top three: Jean Stodden, Spätburgunder Alte Reben, Ahr, Germany 2010 (see p27 ) Felton Road, Block 5, Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand 2012 ( p30 ) Tolpuddle Vineyard, Coal River Valley, Tasmania, Australia 2014 ( p31 ) Alex Hunt MW Purchasing director at Berkmann Wine Cellars, Hunt became a Master of Wine in 2010. His dissertation was on ripeness trends in California, and he won the medal for excellence in the tasting exam. He now writes a column on taste and tasting…

RUNNERS-UP Moorooduc Estate, McIntyre, Mornington Peninsula, Australia 2013 £35Coe Vintners Ripe, oaky raspberry nose that has panache. Good attack, lean and precise, and has clarity of fruit. Not a weighty style but has an almost racy structure. Not yet hugely complex, but it is balanced and will age quite well. Drink 2016-2024 Alc 14% DR RICHARD MCINTYRE’S property in the Mornington Peninsula south of Melbourne is best known for its Chardonnay, but also enjoys a high reputation for its Pinot Noir. The winery was established in 1982, when the surgeon met Mornington Peninsula pioneers such as Gary Crittenden, who encouraged him to establish a vineyard. He initially planted 2ha of vines. Today there are 10ha of vineyards. Production is limited to around 2,500 cases and much of it is sold…

BURGUNDY Beaune: heartland of value Burgundy These are the forgotten vineyards of the Côte d’Or, but produce some of Burgundy’s best value red wines. Stephen Brook acts as guide to the varied vineyards and wine styles of the large and extensive Beaune appellation Photograph: Jon Wyand AS VERONIQUE DROUHIN clambered over the walls of the Clos des Mouches overlooking Beaune, she said: ‘This is one of my favourite places; it’s magical!’ It’s easy to see why on this spring day when the new leaves are as green as fresh paint and the recently ploughed soils a rich brown rug of earth and stone. ‘And look! Behind the leaves you can make out some tiny bunches. Our 2015 Clos des Mouches!’ Her welcome to the nascent bunches was heartfelt, as Drouhin…

Denis Dubourdieu at a glance Born 1949 in Barsac Studied Agronomy and economics in Montpellier, then a Masters in Oenology at Bordeaux University Lives Château Reynon in Côtes de Bordeaux-Cadillac, with wife of 40 years, Florence Children Jean-Jacques and Fabrice Owns Châteaux Doisy-Daëne, Cantegril, Doisy-Dubroca (to be reunited with Doisy-Daëne), Reynon, Clos Floridène and Haura. All organically run since 2012. Also has a 5% stake in Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, owned by Silvio Denz Director Institute of Vine and Wine Sciences (ISVV), Bordeaux Published More than 200 scientific papers and numerous handbooks on oenology. Member of the advisory board to Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion to Wine Won Grand Prix de l’Académie des Sciences for his work on Sauvignon Blanc aromas Consultancies Over 80 estates, including Cheval Blanc, Yquem and Margaux (Pavillon Blanc)…

Man of the Year tributes ‘Denis is not only a legend in his field, but he is a great friend. He has been an invaluable mentor, helping me to learn and understand the importance of precision viticulture in the creation of a great wine. To follow his methods, wherever in the world you are, gives your wines the chance to express a real sense of place – a return to purity and authenticity’ Frédéric Rouzaud, Champagne Roederer ‘He is involved in every aspect of modern viticulture and vinification, and is a joy to work with – Denis’ culture, his talent and his sensibility are very rare. He is able to capture the true identity of a terroir and its owner, and respects the characteristics of both’ Véronique Sanders,…

Livingstone-Learmonth’s pick of the 2014 vintage Wines are listed within their appellations, then by score, then alphabetically by producer. Côte-Rôtie Domaine Garon, Lancement 94/100 £30.75 (in bond, 2013) Clarion Wines Pure, wonderful bouquet of great finesse. Elegant fruit, quiet weight, admirable and long. Drink 2018-2034 Alcohol 13% Benjamin et David Duclaux, La Germine 93 £23.30-£25.50 (ib) The Wine Society, Vine Trail Tightly-knit cassis fruit aroma; stylish, clear palate fruit. A serene Côte-Rôtie that connects to Burgundy. Drink 2019-2030 Alc 13% Domaine Barge, Cuvée du Plessy 92 £39.00 Cru World Wines Meaty, broad bouquet. Well-filled, genuine, traditional. Dashing fruit and a swish finish. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 13% Clusel Roch, La Viaillière 90 £37.50 (en primeur) Goedhuis, Justerini & Brooks Smoky bacon and herbs mingle on nose; lucid and lively, crisp-fruited. Will…

Richards’ picks: best Chilean whites Bodegas Re, Velado, Casablanca 2012 96/100 £52.95 AG Wines, Berry Bros & Rudd, Christopher Keiller The second version of this epic white Pinot Noir is even better than the first (2009). Its delightfully yeasty, savoury, intense style is both unique and inspiring. Drink 2016-2035 Alc 12.5% Aristos, Duquesa d’A Chardonnay, Cachapoal 2010 95 £51 (2009) Justerini & Brooks Sumptuously nutty, savoury Chardonnay grown at altitude and made by magician François Massoc. Big-boned and baroque but with an elegant poise. The Henry VIII of Chilean Chardonnay. Compelling. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14.5% Aquitania, SoldeSol Sauvignon Blanc, Malleco Traiguen 2014 94 £19.95 Winety Beautifully understated yet resonant Sauvignon from southern Chile. Piercing citrus acidity with a discreet, creamy succulence and mineral complexity. Taut, cultured and beguiling, this is…

CALIFORNIA 10 exciting Californian wines to try Karen MacNeil, author of the best-selling book The Wine Bible , picks 10 wines that embody just why California today is so fascinating ‘California’s inner Grace Kelly has started to be revealed’ TWENTY YEARS AGO, I moved from New York City to the Napa Valley, in the sheer belief that living near vines would make me a better wine writer, and would touch my heart in ways imaginable and not. And I think it has. When I arrived, I had only a passing knowledge of Californian wines. California seemed a kind of Wine Camelot – a place of awesome beauty and high ideals. But to me, the wines were a mystery. For my part, I loved Sancerre and Mosel Rieslings; I craved old…

PANEL TASTING Crozes-Hermitage & St-Joseph These neighbouring northern Rhône appellations offer accessible, affordable Syrahs from granite soils, but with different taste profiles, says John Livingstone-Learmonth Map: Maggie Nelson Crozes-Hermitage FOR CONSUMERS AND winegrowers, Crozes-Hermitage is the open door through which they can pass into the delights of the northern Rhône. Because the area is much larger and flatter than other neighbouring appellations, the wines are cheaper to produce than those from the granite hills of places such as St-Joseph. Consequently, land is available, and small start-ups can thrive. The wines are easy to drink and do not break the bank. Crozes is wedged between the River Rhône to its west and the River Isère to its south. The vineyards in the northern and much smaller part are small and terraced,…

Crozes-Hermitage Highly Recommended 90–94pts Domaine des Entrefaux 2013 Decanter average score: 92/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Simon Field MW 92 John Livingstone-Learmonth 92 Ben Llewellyn 93 £19.99-£21.99 Champagnes & Chateaux, Richard Granger Engaging bouquet of blackberry fruit that is well defined with some floral hints as well. A powerful example, showing a very skilled winemaker: it is richly industrious, elegantly tailored and with a cosmopolitan identity that will seduce many. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13% Julien Cécillon, Les Marguerites 2014 90 SF 89 JLL 90 BL 91 N/A UK www.juliencecillon.com Bright aromas of iron shavings, wet granite and gamey meat. With no oak to intervene, this is a successful example of Crozes, with griotte cherries, damsons and hints of orange peel. Interesting wine of discretion and charm. Drink 2016-2021 Alc 13%…

My top three Ben Llewellyn • Lionel Faury, La Gloriette, St-Joseph 2013 This traditional, mineral wine with refined tannins and luscious fruit speaks of its granitic soil and the old vines. Charming now but it will age so gracefully that it would be a shame not to put a case or two away. 96/100 Drink 2016-2020 • Julien Cécillon, Les Marguerites, Crozes-Hermitage 2014 A super wine from a relatively new domaine. Julien is the nephew of Rhône legend Jean-Louis Grippat and has followed his winemaking style. This irony, mineral wine may best suit purists, but most will be impressed by its dynamics. This is a domaine to watch. 91 Drink 2016-2021 • Natacha Chave, Aléofane, Crozes-Hermitage 2014 So elegant and perfumed! This wine stood out for me for its balance…

Expert summary: John Livingstone-Learmonth Leading producers from both appellations were the stars of this tasting, along with a few newcomers, all making the most from a brace of challenging vintages ‘It’s testament to the improved skills of the growers that the ’13s and ’14s were so creditable’ HAD THIS TASTING focused on the excellent 2010 or 2015 vintage, it would have been a triumph. So it’s testament to the improved skills of the appellations’ growers that wines from 2013 and ’14 were so creditable. The leading names at Crozes-Hermitage pretty much came to the fore: the likes of François Tardy of Domaine des Entrefaux, his neighbours the brother and sister duo of Yann and Natacha Chave, Philippe and Vincent Jaboulet, Domaine Michelas-St-Jemms and Gilles Robin. These are domaines capable of…

The tasters’ verdicts Andrea Briccarello Briccarello is head sommelier at London’s Galvin La Chapelle. He was previously group sommelier and wine buyer for Corrigan’s Mayfair, Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill and Lindsay House, as well as a sommelier at Umu. He was born and raised in Piedmont and is a regular judge at the Decanter World Wine Awards. Briccarello’s verdict ‘I was really looking forward to this Alto Adige tasting since it is, in my opinion, one of the best areas for the production of top-quality whites in Italy. ‘I was impressed by the selection of varieties among the 95 wines submitted: they included some of my favourites, like Kerner and Pinot Bianco, as well as Grüner Veltliner, whose minerality and elegance was a pleasant surprise. As always the more…

My top three Andrea Briccarello • Tiefenbrunner, Feldmarschall von Fenner Müller-Thurgau 2013 The only Müller-Thurgau, but outstanding in every sense. Grown at over 1,000m altitude, it shows impressive tropical fruits and lots of flowers and mineral notes. Beautifully balanced richness and elegance. 95/100 Drink 2016-2022 • Terlan, Vorberg Pinot Bianco Riserva 2013 This single-vineyard co-op wine really showed the great strength and potential of this grape. Rich and intense, this has all the hallmarks of a top Pinot Bianco. Incredible length and huge ageing potential. 94 Drink 2016-2020 • Cantina Valle Isarco, Aristos Kerner, Valle Isarco 2014 With a production of nearly 800,000 bottles, this co-op makes some of the most stunning Kerners – a cross of Rieling and red Schiava – and embraces what Alto Adige does best. Aristos…

Expert summary: Ian D’Agata An excellent report card for Italy’s white-wine heartland, but with advice to forget passing trends and focus on unique old-vine varieties with strong ties to the region ‘Far better for Alto Adige to establish itself as a source of unique varieties’ GREAT RESULTS FOR Alto Adige, Italy’s leading source of quality whites. However, deeper analysis illustrates both the strengths and potentially serious weaknessess of this beautiful alpine region’s wine production. Alto Adige is home to high-quality Pinot Bianco: six of our top 11 wines were made with it. The tasting also confirmed Alto Adige’s Pinot Grigios as some of the best in Italy; none scored less than 88 points. Gewürztraminer remains an Alto Adige speciality, always drier and more floral in style; only one wine failed…

25 UNDER £20 Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s tastings director, Christelle Guibert, has done the hard work for you by picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines at under £20 – all UK-available denotes supermarket and high-street wines Graham Beck Brut, South Africa NV 88 £13.99 Majestic, Waitrose A good-value alternative to Champagne, made by a renowned sparkling wine producer. A Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend with 15–18 months’ bottle-ageing on lees, delivering yeasty, nutty, complex aromas and a creamy, rich palate with fine mousse. Freshness, lemony citrus fruit, crisp acidity and a lingering finish. Alc 12% Khareba, Mtsvane, Kakheti, Georgia 2013 91 £9.95 Tanners A fresh, ‘non-orange’ style Georgian wine with herbal aromas, white flowers and…

Grape varieties Julia Harding MW Areni Although I know of only one producer whose dry wine made from Armenia’s signature dark-skinned grape Areni is sold in the UK, USA and Europe, the variety has great potential, as well as a long history. Areni probably comes from the village of the same name south-east of Armenia’s capital Yerevan, very close to the border with the Azerbaijan exclave of Nakhchivan. In both countries it is used to make dry and semi-sweet reds and brandy. Some producers blend it with international varieties. Armenian Zorik Gharibian, who lives in Italy, founded Zorah in 2006 when he planted 6ha of ungrafted Areni at 1,400 metres in Yeghegnadzor, the country’s viticultural heartland – too remote to be affected by phylloxera. Working with Italian consultants Alberto Antonini…

John Stimpfig ‘These new government guidelines overplay their hand’ THIS MONTH, I was planning to write about my recent trip to Chile. But then the UK Government’s Chief Medical Officer, Dame Sally Davies, went and got my goat. While I was surprised and delighted that she supported my recently announced regime of two days’ abstinence from alcohol, I was less than enamoured with more or less everything else she had to say on the BBC Radio 4’s Today programme in January about the government’s proposed new guidelines on safe levels of wine consumption. Predictably so, I hear you say. But perhaps not for the reasons you might imagine. I believe that accurate information and sensible guidelines are not just helpful but essential for wine drinkers. My problem is that these…

OBITUARY Around the wine world Giacomo Tachis 1933-2016 HAILED BY MANY as the father of Italian fine wine in the 20th century, Giacomo Tachis has died, aged 82. Tributes poured in from all over the wine world following the death of Tachis, the man behind Sassicaia, Tignanello and Solaia, and a driving force in the creation of the ‘Super Tuscan’ category of wines. He was named Decanter Man of the Year in 2011 for his compelling contribution to Italian wine – and particularly Tuscan wine – during the 20th century. Born in 1933 in Piedmont, Tachis ‘belongs to that small, select group who changed the course of Italian wine’, according to Richard Baudains, writing in Decanter . Tachis was especially associated with the creation and development of ‘Super Tuscan’ wines,…

Letter of the month Self discovery DAVID STEEL’S LETTER (February 2016 issue) resonated with me. I too have bought wines rated ‘Outstanding’ by Decanter, only to be underwhelmed. Despite these recent blips, I have had enough success to continue experimenting with your recommendations and to keep returning to producers that, without Decanter, I would never have had the good fortune to discover. However, I have found that by far the most satisfying way to discover new wines is to taste them and form my own opinion. For this, I also have Decanter to thank. Several years ago my wife and I discovered a gem at one of your tastings (Château Cantinot, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). After meeting the wonderful owners Yann and Florence Bouscasse, I feel a connection to the…

What I’ve been drinking this month I’ve been enjoying the gentle, traditionally made Baroli and Barbareschi of Massimo Rattalino over the last month: classical in style, with ample subtlety and grace, and given number-coded names which relate to the land-registry parcels of origin. My favourite, the 2012 Barbaresco 42, is from the Montersino vineyard: scents of red fruit, roots and fur, with flavours of redcurrant and cranberry that are both lively and darting yet perfumed and sweet. Stimulating and soothing in equal measure.…

Classic Wines, Uncommon Vision One of Napa Valley’s most celebrated producers takes a clear look at the future Wine tastings have been conducted for centuries, but it would be hard to overstate the importance of one in particular that took place 40 years ago – the famous “Judgment of Paris,” also known as the Paris Tasting. On May 24, 1976 at the InterContinental Hotel, wine merchant Steven Spurrier invited the who’s who of French wine and food influencers to a blind tasting of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Of the white wines, four white Burgundies were tasted against six California Chardonnays, and when the dust settled – to the considerable consternation of the French tasters – a California wine was declared the winner: Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay. A Stag’s Leap Wine…

Best-value wines tasted Crystallum, Cuvée Cinéma, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, South Africa 2014 Alcohol 14% £29.95-£35.99 Carruthers & Kent, Hawkshead, Highbury Vintners, Liberty Wines, SA Wines Online, Slurp, Swig, The Secret Cellar, The Wine Reserve, The Wine Society, Vin Cognito Garcia + Schwaderer, Sofía, Casablanca, Chile 2013 Alc 13.5% £18.99 Naked Wines Gottardi, Mazzon Riserva, Blauburgunder, Alto Adige, Italy 2012 Alc 14% £32-£35 Les Caves de Pyrène Moorooduc Estate, McIntyre, Mornington Peninsula, Australia 2013 Alc 14% £25-£35 Coe Vintners Newton Johnson, Family Vineyards, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, South Africa 2013 Alc 14% £25 Cru World Wines, SA Wines Online, Slurp, Vin Cognito, Vincisive, Wine Direct Phelps Creek, Cuvée Alexandrine, Columbia Gorge, Oregon, USA 2012 Alc 13.6% £33.30 OW Loeb Phi, Single Vineyard, Yarra Valley, Australia 2013 Alc 13% £30 (2012) Exel Wines Quartz…

OUTSTANDING WINES Ceritas, Hellenthal Vineyard, Old Shop Block, Sonoma Coast, California, USA 2013 N/A UK www.ceritaswines.com Quite dark, brooding aromas with a raspberry coulis twist. Fresh and appetising in the mouth, certainly quite dry and lean, but nicely balanced in its own right with cherry, redcurrant fruit and bold, ripe tannins. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 12.5% JOHN RAYTEK LEARNED his winemaking skills in Australia and New Zealand before arriving in the Sonoma Coast to work at Flowers winery. In 2005 he teamed up with Phoebe Bass, now his wife, to create the Ceritas label. She looks after the farming, while he is more focused on cellar work. Her parents own the Porter-Bass vineyards in Sonoma Coast. Planted in 1980, the dry-farmed Hellenthal vineyard is located in the high coastal ridges of…

Critics’ recognition for Viu Manent • Decanter, January 2016 - Viu Manent Gran Reserva Chardonnay 2013 is ranked “6th Best Wine of 2015”. • Decanter, January 2016 - Peter Richards MW recommends Viu Manent ViBo Punta del Viento Rhône style blend in his expert’s choice. • Wine Advocate 2012 - “Viu Manent is the very model of consistency, as all of its wines can be recommended and several offer exceptional value.” • Wine Advocate 2014 - “Viu Manent is a name to follow.” (Luis Gutierrez). • Jancis Robinson 2015 - ”this is history in a bottle. Complex but not too heavy.” (San Carlos Single Vineyard Malbec)…

Beaune: five top premiers crus Bressandes17ha Steep site cooled by air coming through a ravine. Chalky, clay soils over limestone. Wines of vigour and elegance. Clos des Mouches 25ha Mostly owned by Drouhin and Chanson, a walled, well ventilated site on thin soil over limestone. Planted with Chardonnay as well as Pinot Noir. Elegant, long-lived wines. Grèves31ha Steep, southeast-facing, with shallow, stony soil over limestone. Planted with Chardonnay as well as Pinot Noir. Bouchard’s Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus is a prized enclave. Teurons21ha The site climbs the slope, the best sectors higher up. Limestone and clay, well-drained with little topsoil. Racy, elegant wines; fine tannins. Aux Cras 5ha above Teurons Recently acquired from Château de Chorey by Louis Jadot. Dense, long-lived wines.…

Vite Colte Wines Gavi del Comune di Gavi “Masseria dei Carmelitani” 2015 Made from Cortese grapes grown at 250-300m asl in the Gavi heartlands. Barbera d’Asti Superiore “La Luna e I Falo’” 2013 60ha of low yield grapes produced as part of the “Superbarbera” project. 12 months’ ageing in barriques for smoothness and structure. Barolo del Comune di Barolo “Essenze” 2011 Made from Nebbiolo grapes cultivated in the Barolo heartland and aged for 24 months in barriques. The 2001 vintage won a GOLD MEDAL in the Decanter World Wine Awards 2015…

Timeline of major achievement 1949 Born at Château Doisy-Daëne in Barsac 1975 Begins thesis at Bordeaux University under Pascal Ribereau-Gayon 1976 Marries Florence David and takes over running Château Reynon when her father dies just a few months into their marriage 1978 Completes PhD on molecular structure of botrytised grapes 1978 Fabrice born 1981 Jean-Jacques born 1982 Further doctorate on filtering and fining botrytised wines. Buys land to form Clos Floridène and begins teaching at Bordeaux University 1987 Begins consulting for estates other than his own, at first specialising in white wines with partner (and former student) Christophe Ollivier 1987 Valérie Lavigne (also a former student) joins the consulting group 1998 Becomes consultant to Château Haut-Bailly, marking beginning of red wine consultancy 1999 Begins work on the creation of a…

Castello di Verrazzano Tuscan winemaking: rooted in the past, looking to the future The Castle of Verrazzano is located on a hilltop between Florence and Siena in Tuscany. Its vineyards, Certified Organic since the 2014 vintage, lie in the prestigious Montefioralle growing area near Greve. Flanked by woodland, its borders have remained unaltered for almost 1000 years - an outpost of stability in a landscape marked by centuries of family and political feuding. Verrazzano has made wine since the earliest times - the property occupies the site of former Etruscan and Roman settlements - but its growing reputation among wine lovers in Italy and abroad is due to the spirit and the industry of its present owner Luigi Cappellini, ( below centre ). The Verrazzano name is likely to be…

Spurrier’s World Decanter’s globetrotting consultant editor gives us a round-up of recent tastings, his views on current issues in the wine world and top bottles to drink or keep ‘He stressed that in all walks of life, as in wine, it was individualism that mattered’ AIV symposium: day 1 Last April, following the Académie Internationale du Vin’s annual December meeting in Geneva, this column was headed ‘In honour of Constant Bourquin’, the Swiss philosopher and founder of the AIV. This year we met in Berlin, since our retiring president, Mariano Fernandez Amunategui, is currently Chile’s ambassador to Germany. The symposium opened with the usual aperitif, all wines being offered by members who produced them. Following lunch, with many more members’ wines from all over the world on offer, the proceedings…

The results A tough tasting, said our experts, where the challenging 2012, 2013 and 2014 vintages did not deliver the accessible, exuberant fruit that usually marks out these two appellations. John Stimpfig reports THIS WAS AN unusual tasting because it focused on two similar regions in the Northern Rhône, three contrasting vintages and a single grape variety. It was also a tough tasting: 2012, ‘13 and ’14 were not great vintages and producers had to work hard to produce decent wine. ‘These are not a trio of vintages that will convert people to St-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage,’ said Decanter’s Rhône expert John Livingstone-Learmonth. St-Joseph performed best and the 2012s and ’13s largely outperformed the most recent vintage – though not exclusively so. ‘2014 was not a hot summer and some of…

St-Joseph Outstanding 95–97pts Lionel Faury, La Gloriette 2013 95 SF 95 JLL 95 BL 96 £25-£26 Highbury Vintners, Swig, Woodwinters Passing the baton from one generation to the next in a small family domaine can be a moment of some tension, but the transition chez Faury has been seamless. Lionel’s grandfather cultivated vines and fruit, selling his wine to the miners of St-Etienne, while father Philippe developed the wine side, rebuilding walls and vineyards. From this platform Lionel has seized his opportunity with gusto. The Syrah from vines planted in 1949 is delivered with a light touch, the inner depth of the old-vine fruit steering its course. It is a top performer every year. SF Generous nose of red fruit lift and spicy charm; the palate is pure, forward and…

My top three Simon Field MW • Lionel Faury, La Gloriette, St-Joseph 2013 Resembling an urbane surfer, and quite different in personality to his reticent father, Lionel has kept up the very high standards of this famous estate. This wine stood out because of its granitic rigour, generosity of fruit and its unassailable purity. 95 Drink 2016-2020 • Pierre Gonon, St-Joseph 2013 Rating this much higher than my fellow tasters, I was relieved to learn it was made by the (bio)dynamic Gonon brothers, who, to me are stars of the region. The hint of imperfection on the perfection marks out beauty and interest. 93 Drink 2016-2020 • Domaine Bernard Gripa, St-Joseph 2013 Gripa’s range is impeccably made and excellent value; the 2013 is still young of course, but constructed with…

PANEL TASTING Alto Adige whites This northern region bordering Austria is Italy’s most consistent for high-quality white wines, produced from a host of mainly Germanic grapes. Ian D’Agata reports Map: Maggie Nelson OVER THE PAST 30 years, the best white wines of Italy have been those of Alto Adige (with only those of Friuli-Venezia Giulia giving them a run for their money). And while things have improved, with all Italian wine regions now making world-class whites from at least one grape variety, it holds true that Alto Adige remains Italy’s best source for high-quality white wine, in every vintage. Alto Adige, also called Sud Tirol, was part of Austria until the end of World War I, so Germanic grape varieties rule here. Though you’ll find Riesling grown elsewhere in Italy…

Outstanding 95–97pts Cantina Valle Isarco, Aristos Kerner, Valle Isarco 2014 Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Andrea Briccarello 95 Ian D’Agata 95 Michael Garner 95 £13.95 Hawkshead Wines, Les Caves de Pyrène, Slurp This is one of Italy’s best cooperatives with 130 members owning 140ha of vines and producing roughly 750,000 bottles a year. The Aristos line is characterised by wines made from lower yields and select vineyards. This Kerner is made from grapes grown at 700m-800m altitude on nutrient-poor, shallow topsoils and plenty of minerals such as quartz deeper down. It spends seven months on its lees and is unoaked. Andrea Briccarello Ripe peach and apricot aromas. Very rich, intense and beautifully aromatic on the finish. Complex and seductive with lots of tropical fruit on the palate.…

My top three Michael Garner • Tiefenbrunner, Feldmarschall von Fenner Müller-Thurgau 2013 Tiefenbrunner makes the best Müller-Thurgau I’ve tasted from vines grown in the Hofstatt vineyard. The 2013 has stunning aromas already and typically this wine can improve for up to a decade and more. 95/100 Drink 2016-2022 • Cantina Valle Isarco, Aristos Kerner, Valle Isarco 2014 From Italy’s northernmost vineyard area and from grapes grown at altitudes of up to 900m the wines can have remarkably fine and pungent aromas; this example shone out with bracing intensity. 95 Drink 2016-2020 • Markus Prackwieser Gump, Praesulis Weissburgunder 2014 A new name for me: this beautifully crafted wine shows that exhilirating combination of scintillating freshness and juicy ripeness that makes Pinot Bianco such a standout variety. 95 Drink 2016-2021 NB: the…

Alsace Pinot Gris This is the reference for the grape, says Margaret Rand – Pinot Gris as it ought to be – offering wine lovers restrained, high-acid, dry wines, as well as rich and lush ones ‘There’s a short window of optimum ripeness with Pinot Gris; it’s as tricky a grape to get right as Pinot Noir’ STYLES EVOLVE IN Alsace as everywhere else. The climate changes, fashion demands new flavours, growers find different solutions. Pinot Gris used to be a rare grape in Alsace, with only 2% or 3% of the vineyard area. Then fashion swung its way in the 1980s and 1990s, and within a couple of decades or so it was up to 15%. That’s Pinot Gris, of course, not Pinot Grigio. Alsace is Pinot Gris as…

UK stockists Where to find the wines featured in Decanter this month A&B Vintners, Kent (www.abvintners.co.uk) ABS Wine Agencies, Lincs (www.abswineagencies.co.uk) AC Gallie, Jersey (www.acgallie.com) Addison Wines, London SW11 (www.addisonwines.com) AG Wines, London (www.agwines.com) Aitken Wines, Dundee (www.aitkenwines.com) Albany Vintners, Cambridge (www.albanyvintners.com) Alliance Wine, Ayrshire (www.alliancewine.co.uk) Alpine Wines, (www.alpinewines.co.uk) Amazon (www.amazon.co.uk) Antique Wine Company, London (www.antique-wine.com) Armit Wines, London W11 (www.armit.co.uk) Asda Wine Shop, (www.direct.asda.com) Asset Wines, London (www.assetwines.com) Astrum Wine Cellars, Surrey (www.astrumwinecellars.com) Atlas Wines (www.wineatlas.net) Averys of Bristol, Bristol (www.averys.com) Bancroft, London SE1 (www.bancroftwines.com) Barwell & Jones, Ipswich (www.barwellandjones.com) Berkmann Wine Cellars, London (www.berkmann.co.uk) Berry Bros & Rudd, London SW1 (www.bbr.com) Bibendum PLB, London NW1 (www.bibendum-wine.co.uk) Blossoms Wines & Ales, Leigh on Sea (www.blossomswinesandales.co.uk) Bordeaux Index, London EC1 (www.bordeauxindex.com) Bottle Apostle, London (www.bottleapostle.com) Buon Vino! (www.buonvino.co.uk) Camber Wines,…

Your Cafayate address book Hotels Patios de Cafayate Located at Bodega El Esteco, this hotel dazzles with its vaulted galleries, meeting rooms and colonial-style gardens. The spacious and luxurious rooms capture a 19th-century ambience with knitted fabrics, silverwork and antique furniture. Also, guests can enjoy a beautiful swimming pool and an exclusive wine-spa. www.patiosdecafayate.com Grace Cafayate A member of the international chain of luxury hotels, this is the most exclusive accommodation option in Cafayate. There are 12 suites in the main building, and 20 private bungalows surrounded by vineyards. Ideal for golf fans, it is home to an 18-hole course; the hotel also offers horse riding, and a full-service health centre. www.gracehotels.com Altalaluna Boutique Hotel & Spa Tolombón is a small Calchaquí town located 18km to the south of Cafayate.…

Tasting notes decoded Wax/Waxy Candle wax or beeswax aromas can be common in aged white wines for a number of reasons. Ethyl acetates, a contributor to honey and wax aromas, can be created by yeast during fermentation (common in Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay). However, they can also come from bottle ageing, as is common in older Rieslings; this is due to the breakdown of other components in the wine to create ethyl acetates. Wax aromas are, however, different from the petrol aromas often found in aged Rieslings – these are caused by another natural and very potent compound, TDN, which can be detected at concentrations of micrograms per litre. (Tasting note from p101)…

In brief Bonhams restaurant opens in evenings Bonhams’ Michelin-starred London restaurant is now open on Wednesday and Thursday evenings, supplementing its existing lunchtime opening hours. The restaurant, which opened in January 2015, is the first auction house restaurant in the world to gain a Michelin star. It offers a £60, five-course set menu from chef Tom Kemble. Moët pop-up returns Champagne Moët & Chandon is reprising its London Moët Academy pop-up this year, running at the Condé Nast College in Soho from 21 March to 3 April. The event, designed to educate via an ‘immersive’ journey through the Champagne-making process, will also feature a world preview of Moët’s Grand Vintage Rosé 2008. Tickets for a 90-minute session are £45 from moetacademy.co.uk…

Hammer highlights • Acker Merrall, Hong Kong, 23 January: one bottle of Leflaive Montrachet 2007 sold for HK$46,930 (high estimate: HK$32,000); six bottles of Haut-Brion 2005 sold for HK$39,520 (high e: HK$32,000); three bottles of Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 sold for HK$54,340 (high e: HK$48,000); one double magnum of Mouton Rothschild 1986 sold for HK$34,580 (high e: HK$28,000); 12 bottles of S Cathiard Romanée-St-Vivant 2006 sold for HK$98,800 (high e: HK$80,000); 12 bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) assortment 1990 sold for HK$370,500 (high e: HK$480,000). • Sotheby’s, London, 27 January: six bottles of Pétrus 1982 sold for £12,338 (high e: £15,000); six bottles of Pétrus 1998 sold for £10,575 (high e: £13,000); 12 bottles of Lafite 1996 sold for £6,463 (high e: £6,000); six bottles of Mouton…

Château de Beaucastel 1981 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France A legend because… Beaucastel is not the only great estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, but it has been admired for its consistency and elegance over many decades. What makes its wine distinctive is the 25% to 30% of Mourvèdre in the blend. This is one of the 13 permitted varieties for the appellation, but it is rare to find such a high proportion in a wine usually dominated by Grenache. The Mourvèdre gives the wine a finesse that is rare in the region. It also gives it backbone, doesn’t oxidise easily, and the wine is rarely high in alcohol. Beaucastel ages remarkably well, and the high proportion of Mourvèdre is part of the explanation. Looking back The Perrin family acquired this estate in 1909 and it…

In brief Late actor Robin Williams’ wine estate in Napa has been bought by Alfred and Melanie Tesseron of Château Pontet-Canet in Bordeaux. It is understood that the Tesserons paid $18.1m for Villa Sorriso, located in the Mayacamas mountains on the west side of the valley. It was offered for sale four years ago and re-advertised after Williams’ death. The word ‘wine’ has been banned in books as part of new restrictions on writers and publishers introduced by Iran’s head of book publishing, Mohammad Selgi. Consumption of alcohol is banned in Iran, although alcohol is regularly smuggled over the border, and centres are reportedly being set up to deal with alcohol abuse throughout the country. Record Rioja sales in 2015 were driven by strong demand for the crianza, reserva and…

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Hugh Johnson ‘We are all becoming aware of a worldwide change of course’ NOTHING WE BUY is more intricately organised and disciplined than that simple drink, wine. What, after all, do MWs study if not the conventions – cultural, chemical and commercial – that have kept the world of wine on course for centuries? Formal rules are relatively recent (Appellations Controleés are only 80 this year), but the tramlines have been there far longer. Wine-growing and -making are inherently slow-moving affairs (choose your land, choose your vines, plant them, find they’re not quite right, try again, see if anybody likes what you make), so revolutions have been rare. You still won’t see Pinot Noir in Pomerol; there’s just too much to lose. Revolutions – maybe not, but we are all…

PINOT NOIR The best Pinot Noirs in the world (outside Burgundy) It’s the grape that stars in some of the world’s most expensive and rarest red wines when grown in its home territory of Burgundy. But how is it performing elsewhere? Our expert panel tasted the best of the rest to find out. Stephen Brook appraises the results ‘Raw material matters: the wrong Pinot Noir clone in a great spot can result in a disappointing wine’ AFTER THE EXCITING ‘World’s best Chardonnay outside Burgundy’ tasting (March 2015 issue), it seemed logical to apply the same principle to the region’s other great grape, Pinot Noir. Based on the recommendations of our international experts (see p35), more than 80 wines were selected. But the tasting yielded fewer spectacular scores than the Chardonnay…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED WINES Alphonse Mellot, En Grands Champs, Sancerre, France 2012 £70 H2Vin, House of Hallgarten Appetisingly tart apple and elderberry aromas with dark cherry and liquorice. Rich and suave, concentrated yet sleek, and backed by firm acidity. Finishes on a chocolate note. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 13% Antica Terra, Antikythera, Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon, USA 2012 £66 The Wine Treasury Rich, ripe cherry nose, with a good dose of oak. Rich, full-bodied, generous, an upfront style that’s super-ripe. Has little finesse but abundant fruit and a lightly tannic finish. Drink 2016-2024 Alc 14.2% Ata Rangi, Martinborough, New Zealand 2013 £39.75-£47.99 Widely available via UK agent Liberty Wines Smoky raspberry coulis nose with gentle summer berry fruit. Good crunchy Pinot fruit, fresh acidity, integrated tannins and a spicy finish. Drink 2016-2024 Alc…

And the nominees were… Argentina (nominations by Patricio Tapia & Peter Richards MW) Zorzal, Eggo, Filoso, Tupungato, Mendoza 2015 PT Chacra, Treinta y Dos, Mainqué, Patagonia, Argentina 2012 PT & PR Australia (Huon Hooke & Tyson Stelzer) Bass Phillip, Reserve, Gippsland 2013 HH Coldstream Hills, Deer Farm Vineyard, Yarra Valley 2013 HH Farr, Farrside by Farr, Geelong 2013 HH Giant Steps, Applejack Vineyard, Yarra Valley 2014 HH Moorooduc Estate, McIntyre, Mornington Peninsula 2013 HH Mount Mary Vineyard, Yarra Valley 2013 HH Tolpuddle Vineyard, Coal River Valley, Tasmania 2014 HH Ashton Hills Vineyard, Reserve, Adelaide Hills, Australia 2014 TS Bass Phillip, Premium, Gippsland 2013 TS Bindi, Original Vineyard, Macedon Ranges 2013 TS Freycinet Vineyard, Tasmania 2014 TS Grosset, Adelaide Hills 2013 TS Kooyong, Haven, Mornington Pensinsula 2012 TS Phi, Single Vineyard,…

Brook’s top-value red Beaune buys Chanson, Clos des Fèves 1er Cru 2012 93/100 £33.46-£59.70 Asset Wines, Hedonism, Jeroboams, Lay & Wheeler Fragrant red-fruits nose, showing delicacy and charm. Sleek and elegant, yet concentrated, with firm tannins beneath. Has fine texture and excellent length. Drink 2016-2025 Alcohol 13.5% Bouchard Père et Fils, Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus, Grèves 1er Cru 2014 92 £47 (in bond)-£58 Fine & Rare, Millésima Delicate, smoky red-fruits nose; lifted and elegant. Rich and suave on the palate though concentrated, with firm underlying tannins. This has structure, depth and unusual power for Beaune, probably the result of low yields. Has grip and persistence, with a long, punchy finish. Drink 2018-2030 Alc N/A Domaine des Croix, Bressandes 1er Cru 2012 91 £44 Berry Bros & Rudd Rich, generous, cherry…

Decanter hall of fame: past recipients 2015 Alvaro Palacios Spain2014 Jean-Pierre and François Perrin Rhône2013 Gerard Basset OBE MW MS England2012 Paul Symington Portugal2011 Giacomo Tachis Italy2010 Aubert de Villaine Burgundy2009 Nicolás Catena Argentina2008 Christian Moueix Bordeaux2007 Anthony Barton Bordeaux2006 Marcel Guigal Rhône2005 Ernst Loosen Mosel2004 Brian Croser Adelaide Hills2003 Jean-Michel Cazes Bordeaux2002 Miguel Torres Penedès2001 Jean-Claude Rouzaud Champagne2000 Paul Draper California1999 Jancis Robinson OBE MW London1998 Angelo Gaja Piedmont1997 Len Evans OBE AO Australia1996 Georg Riedel Austria1995 Hugh Johnson OBE London1994 May-Eliane de Lencquesaing Bordeaux1993 Michael Broadbent MW London1992 André Tchelistcheff California1991 José Ignacio Domecq Jerez1990 Prof Emile Peynaud Bordeaux1989 Robert Mondavi California1988 Max Schubert Australia1987 Alexis Lichine Bordeaux1986 Marchese Piero Antinori Tuscany1985 Laura & Corinne MentzelopoulosBordeaux1984 Serge Hochar Lebanon…

Vintage report Northern Rhône 2014 The outlook was not good, with terrible weather in July followed by pests in the vineyards. But producers pulled the 2014 vintage back from the brink, to produce some long-lived reds and good-quality whites, says John Livingstone-Learmonth Photograph: Mike Prior. With thanks to Hedonism Wines (www.hedonism.co.uk), Yapp Brothers (www.yapp.co.uk), The Wine Society (www.thewinesociety.com) and Berry Bros & Rudd (www.bbr.com) for the loan of the bottles ‘In the light of such woes, 2014 has turned out well, even very well’ John Livingstone Learmonth IN THE BOARD game of Monopoly, players have one Get out of Jail Free card at their disposal. In the northern Rhône in 2014, growers used not just one, but many such cards to salvage what threatened to be a written-off vintage. A…

Chile’s top 10 white varieties by hectarage (with most-planted regions) Total Chilean wine vineyard 137,592ha White wine 35,841ha (26%) Sauvignon Blanc 15,142ha (Curicó, Maule, Casablanca, San Antonio, Colchagua) Chardonnay 11,634ha (Casablanca, Maule, Colchagua, Curicó, Maipo) Moscatel de Alejandría 3,574ha (Itata, Bío Bío, Limarí, Elqui) Semillon 968ha (Maule, Curicó) Viognier 878ha (Colchagua, Cachapoal, Limarí, Casablanca) Sauvignon Vert 801ha (Curicó, Maule) Torontel 636ha (Maule) Pedro Ximenez 436ha (Limarí, Elqui) Riesling 420ha (Bío Bío, San Antonio, Casablanca) Gewurztraminer 366ha (Casablanca, San Antonio, Bío Bío)…

Jane Anson’s picks, Pichon Baron & Pichon Comtesse Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France 2009 98 £87(ib)-£152 Berry Bros & Rudd, Bordeaux Index, Fine & Rare, Goedhuis, Hedonism, Justerini & Brooks 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot. A sexy, powerful wine, barely hitting the next stage of evolution at seven years old. The nose is rich and spicy, and carries through perfectly on the palate. Exotic, spiced plum flavours with a tarry, liquorice edge. Great confidence on display. Drink 2017-2045 Alcohol 13.5% Château Pichon-Longueville Baron, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France 1990 95 POA Widely available on secondary market 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot. Approaching its 26th birthday, this has an enticingly grilled-fruit nose, and still feels full of vivacity. Tertiary flavours of tobacco and hay showing through, accompanied by welcoming cooked blackberry fruits.…

Steven recommends... Montes, Sparkling Angel Brut, Colchagua, Chile NV 88/100 £15.50 Oddbins A 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay blend disgorged after three years, showing a lively white fruit nose and red fruit palate with a dry finish. A cheerfully serious sparkler. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 12% Vasse Felix, Heytesbury Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia 2010 94 £45 AC Gallie, Christopher Piper, Hedonism, Love Wine, The Harrow Wine Cellars Brilliant, with finely textured fruit and freshness in perfect balance, great length and class. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13% Chivite, Colección 125 Blanco, Navarra, Spain 2013 91 £27 Great Western, Waitrose A single-vineyard Chardonnay, barrel-fermented and aged under the supervision of Denis Dubourdieu (see p44): fine ripe flavours, clarity, depth and natural acidity for the future. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13% Château Coussin, César…

The tasters’ verdicts Simon Field MW Field joined historic UK merchant Berry Bros & Rudd in 1998, having spent several years as a chartered accountant in London. He is responsible for purchasing Rhône wines among other regions and became a Master of Wine in 2002. Field’s verdict ‘Too many variables can spoil the Syrah broth; and this tasting not only combined wines from both sides of the River Rhône, but also examples from different vintages, dominated by 2013 and 2014. ‘That said, there were no shortage of conclusions, with the consensus favouring the relative maturity of the 2013s over the precocious 2014s, and the wines of St-Joseph just edging it over those from Crozes. Nothing especially contentious, but the overall impression was of slight disappointment, with very few wines scoring…

St-Joseph Highly Recommended 90–94pts Domaine Eric & Joël Durand, Lautaret 2013 92 SF 90 JLL 91 BL 95 £26.95 Berry Bros & Rudd Playful aromas of blackberry and cherry, with summer pudding notes and roses to the fore. The palate fruit is sleek and clean as a whistle, supported by grainy tannins. A polished performer with bright Syrah fruit inside its oaking. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 13% Domaine Bernard Gripa 2013 90 SF 90 JLL 91 BL 90 £20 The Wine Society, Vinetrail Blueberry fruit and autumnal flowers on the nose. The palate is very food-friendly, offering generous fruit and enjoyable tannins in close step. Classical in style, if a bit tight now, but with enough stuffing to last. A bonny bottle. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 13.5% Alain Graillot 2014 90 SF…

My top three John Livingstone-Learmonth • Alain Graillot, St-Joseph 2014 Hail, sheep and wild boar hit the crop here in 2014, but the surviving grapes, mainly planted in 1988 from St-Désirat, have turned out a winner in a tricky vintage. Has real kick and depth. 91 Drink 2016-2022 • Domaine Eric & Joël Durand, Lautaret, St-Joseph 2013 Early 1980s Syrah off granite at 240m is the formula for this open-book wine. It captures the freshness of the year and dustiness of the sparse soils, enhanced by a shimmer of oak. 91 Drink 2016-2022 • Les Vins de Vienne, Les Palignons, Crozes-Hermitage 2013 The carefree nature of this wine from 30-year Syrah vines is most appealing; both times I have (blind) tasted it, I’ve commented on it. It hits the spot…

The results The array of high-scoring wines tells the tale – Alto Adige is a fantastic source of Italian whites. But its producers must focus on the right varieties going forward, urged our tasters. Amy Wislocki reports KERNER, PINOT BIANCO, Müller-Thurgau, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. Even within the list of five Outstanding wines, we have six grape varieties. And there were more in this tasting: Riesling, Sylvaner, Gewürztraminer… a varietal fruit salad. So which were the stars, and what do the wines have in common? ‘The whites of Alto Adige have a unique, high-altitude character – a wonderful fragrance, zesty acidity and steeliness,’ commented Michael Garner. ‘They’re not cheap, but they’re produced in small quantities and often in steeply sloping vineyards that are difficult to work. That is…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Markus Prackwieser Gump, Praesulis Weissburgunder 2014 94 AB 92 IDA 94 MG 95 N/A UK www.gumphof.it Broad and fresh notes of pear and toasted hazelnut. Flowers, hints of passion fruit and grassy notes on the mid-palate. Long and lovely, precise and pure with concentration and poise. Drink 2016-2021 Alc 13.5% Georg Mumelter, Griesbauerhof Weissburgunder 2014 92 AB 93 IDA 91 MG 92 N/A UK www.griesbauerhof.it Broad and fresh with saline notes and toasty aromas of hazelnut, pear and citrus blossom. Intense, structured palate with great freshness and elegance. Finishes with hints of apple jelly and quince. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 13.5% Falkenstein, Weissburgunder, Val Venosta 2014 93 AB 93 IDA 92 MG 93 POA Dolce Vita Wines Full and concentrated pear and tangerine zest aromas with blossom notes.…

My top three Ian D’Agata • Tiefenbrunner, Feldmarschall von Fenner Müller-Thurgau 2013 One of Italy’s 15 best whites, this proves Müller-Thurgau can be world class. Laser-like focus, crisp and precise, with green apple, coriander, nutmeg and hazelnut aromas and flavours and a complex stony overlay. Great wine. 95/100 Drink 2016-2022 • Köfererhof, Kerner, Valle Isarco 2014 Owner Günther Kershbaumer is so talented he can’t seem to make a bad wine. This Kerner is an archetype of what the crossing can offer in the right hands: lemongrass, bubble gum, lemon verbena and nutmeg abound. 91 Drink 2016-2022 • Cantina Tramin, Unterebner Pinot Grigio 2014 One of Italy’s top three oaked Pinot Grigios, and a world-class example of just how good this maligned variety can be. Forget all the neutral stuff you’ve…

Rand’s top 18 wines to try Domaine Weinbach, Cuvée Ste Catherine 2013 96 £31.46 Justerini & Brooks Perfectly defined, racy wine of great precision; compelling and complex. This is great wine by any definition: terroir-driven rather than focused on fruit, and such a clear translation of a particular spot on the earth. Delicious. Drink 2016-2025 Alcohol 14% Domaine Bruno Sorg, Pfersigberg Grand Cru 2013 95 £22.80 Hedonsim, Noel Young, Selfridges Rich, concentrated and deep, complex and mineral; exemplary, terroir-driven Pinot Gris of great stylishness. There’s enough flesh to give it a proper Alsatian sense of spice and lushness, but it’s all kept under perfect control. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13.2% Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Lieu-Dit Rotenberg 2012 95 £26.95 Uncorked Olivier Humbrecht MW is making far drier wines than he used to, and…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge This month’s experts Peter Liem is publisher of ChampagneGuide.net Patricio Tapia is a regular contributor to Decanter, based in Santiago, Chile James Lawther MW is DWWA Regional Chair for Bordeaux Red Champagne Picking up on the question about sparkling Shiraz in your February issue ‘Notes & Queries’, can you explain why, when two of the three Champagne grapes are black, there is no red Champagne? John Butterwick, Boston Spa, West Yorkshire Peter Liem replies: The fact that there is no red Champagne is probably due to historical tastes. In the late-17th and early-18th centuries, when sparkling wines first began to be produced in the Champagne region, the best wines were valued not for…

Collector’s corner Château Haut-Brion wine console £210,000 Le Clos A hand-crafted console and chest, designed by Prince Robert of Luxembourg and Lord Linley; the top eight vintages of each decade since 1935. Oh, and lunch at Haut-Brion with Jean-Philippe Delmas. Sassicaia 2013 £525 (ib, six-bottle case) Armit Wines The 2013 vintage of one of Giacomo Tachis’ (p10) greatest achievements is described by Armit as ‘extraordinarily elegant’, with anticipated maturity of 2025-2040. Taylor’s 1966 Single Harvest Port £150 Farr Vintners, Fine + Rare, Bordeaux Index Third in a series of 50-year-old, limited-edition Taylor’s Ports. Widely declared, the 1966 was overshadowed by the stellar 1963s.…