Innehållsförteckning för September 2016 från Decanter

The best places for Pinot in California As I indicated, a tidy summation of what the Pinots from each AVA taste like is an impossibility. But a lion’s share of the best Pinots do come from eight AVAs. Roughly from north to south, here they are... Map: Maggie Nelson Sonoma Coast Though it is a large, sprawling appellation (1,940km2 ), the Sonoma Coast is one of the least-planted areas. The best wines virtually always come from the coolest small slice that locals call the True Sonoma Coast. The vineyards here, often in sight of the Pacific, seem perpetually laced with fog. Santa Lucia Highlands One impressive southeast-facing bank of the Santa Lucia Mountains, the Santa Lucia Highlands is known for some of California’s boldest, flashiest and most powerful Pinots (the…

Vintage report Californian Cabernet 2013 Widely hailed as a great vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon, 2013 was nonetheless a high-wire act. William Kelley assesses the wines’ quality and longevity Photographs: Mike Prior; Victor Utyupin/Alamy Stock Photo ‘The raw material in 2013 was the best we’ve ever seen’ Thomas Brown, winemaker With thanks to Hedonism Wines (www.hedonism.co.uk); Roberson Wine (www.robersonwine.com); Uncorked Ltd (www.uncorked.co.uk); Honest Grapes (www.honestgrapes.co.uk) & Justerini & Brooks (www.justerinis.com) for the loan of the bottles FOR MANY WINEMAKERS and vintners, California’s 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon vintage is quite simply the finest of their careers. ‘I can now die happy as a winemaker,’ says Tod Mostero of Dominus Estate. ‘I’d love to see another year as good as this, but I can settle for just one.’ Up and down the state,…

New names since 2010 • 4088 • Acumen • Alejandro Bulgheroni Estate • Apriori Cellar • Becklyn Cellars • Beran • Brick & Mortar • Cairdean Estate • Christopher Tynan Wines • Covert Estate • Davis Estates • Di Costanzo • Eleven Eleven Wines • FARM Napa Valley • Flywine • Foley Johnson Winery • Galerie Wines • Handwritten Wines • Herencia Del Valle • Heritance Vintners • Hiatus Cellars • Holman Cellars • Jamieson Ranch Vineyards • Kata; Leaf and Vine • Marciano Estate • Maxville Lake Winery • Memento Mori • MW Wines • Nellcôte • Nine Suns • Odette Estate Winery • Pellet Estate • Qtr; RD Winery • RouteStock • Schermeister Cellars • Shadowbox Cellars • Sinegal Estate Winery • Spiriterra Vineyards • SR Tonella Cellars…

Mackay’s pick of Sonoma Iron Horse, Classic Vintage Brut, Russian River Valley 2010 93 £47 The Wine Treasury One of California’s most reliable fizz makers, Iron Horse captures the generosity of Russian River Valley fruit but structures it with zippy acidity and crispness. This brut is 69% Pinot Noir and 31% Chardonnay. Creamy palate of ripe red apples and fresh bread, with a dash of orange zest. Drink 2016-2021 Alc 13.5% Red Car, Chardonnay, Fort Ross-Seaview 2013 92 £34.37 Stannary St Wine Co, WoodWinters A stalwart of the far Sonoma Coast, Red Car makes a lovely, racy cool-climate Chardonnay from its estate vineyard, planted in 2005 high above the fog line at about 300m, and less than 6km from the Pacific. The wine is fermented in French oak, just 10%…

McCoy’s best Burgundian-style buys Mount Eden Vineyard, Estate Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains 2012 96 £46 Roberson Jeffrey Patterson has been making vivid, intense, ageworthy wines from this vineyard since 1981 and it consistently produces fantastic, Burgundian-style Chardonnays. Barrel-fermented, aged in 50% new French oak, on the lees, the 2012 is striking and very classy, with aromas of lemon oil, deep mineral notes, and an amazingly long finish. Domaine Eden Chardonnay, the second wine, is a true bargain. Drink 2016-2026 Alc 13.5% Littorai, BA Thieriot Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast 2013 94 £44-£67 AG Wines, Hedonism Ted Lemon, who spent time as a winemaker in Burgundy, founded Littorai in 1993, and has made Chardonnay from this biodynamic, dry-farmed vineyard near Occidental since 1997. It’s my favourite among his four single-vineyard bottlings. Intense…

Barolo’s Vietti sold to US investors ITALY Piedmont’s historic Vietti winery has been sold for an undisclosed sum to Barolo enthusiasts the Krause family, owners of convenience stores in the US. The 143-year-old estate in Castiglione Falletto, with 34 hectares of vines, is the family’s second winery acquisition in Piedmont in the past year, following the purchase of Enrico Serafino from Gruppo Campari in June 2015. Both Luca Currado, oenologist and chief executive of Vietti, and sales and marketing director Mario Cordero, will stay in their posts, with Currado saying: ‘Nothing at Vietti will change, if only for the better.’ He added: ‘With this alliance, Vietti will have access to an additional 12ha of cru vineyards in Barolo that were recently purchased by the Krause family. These vineyards will allow…

Letters Enraged or inspired by what you’ve read? Email editor@decanter.com, or write to: The Editor, Decanter, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London SE1 0SU, UK On the Judgement of Paris MR BRUNO’S LETTER (August 2016 issue) questions the results of the 1976 Paris Tasting. This event – which was created by Patricia Gallagher and myself under the auspices of my wine school L’Academie du Vin, to draw attention to the quality of wines made by ‘boutique wineries’ in California in the early 1970s – is covered in depth in George Taber’s book The Judgment of Paris (Scribner, 2005). At the end of the book are the individual judges’ scores for each wine. Examining the rankings of the two wines that ‘won’, you will see that Chateau Montelena received six…

Jane Anson ‘Alsace should be seen as France’s heartland for terroir-driven whites’ THERE’S SOMETHING MAGICAL about rain in mountainous regions, when the mist rises like curling woodsmoke from the hills. Alsace has it in spades, compensating for the soggy June weather as we walk through its vineyards. It’s not been a great start to the 2016 season for most wine regions across France. Hail has wiped out swathes of Chablis, Burgundy and the Loire. Frost has taken out plenty more. ‘If rain is as bad as it gets for us this year,’ says Jean-Frédéric Hugel, ‘we’ll take it’. Besides, the weather is only one of the obstacles Alsace has had to contend with recently. The loss just a few months ago of Jean-Frédéric’s father, Etienne, one of the region’s stars,…

Ahmed’s picks: 15 top Coonawarra reds to try Balnaves, The Tally Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 96 £68-£71.95 (2008) Oz Wines, Highbury Vintners Imposing and very complex with classic Coonawarra aromas and flavours of dried herbs, black olive, tufa soil and cassis. With powerful ripe supporting tannins, it builds in the mouth, the long finish showcasing the region’s stony minerality and fresh porcini mushroom notes. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14.5% Majella, The Malleea 2010 96 £39.75 Aged in Oak, Alliance Wine Toasty oak is swiftly outpaced by this lithe flagship Cabernet-Shiraz’s confident, juicy blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. Dried sage, eucalyptus and limestone notes bring great nuance. Supple chocolatey tannins enhance the tremendously persistent length. Drink 2016-2030 Alc 14.5% Majella, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 95 £19.50-£24 Aged in Oak, Alliance Wine, Australian Wines Online,…

Great Californian Syrahs Big Basin Vineyards, Old Corral Syrah, Santa Cruz Mountains 2013 91 N/A UK www.big basinvineyards.com JLL: Mixed airs of blackberry, prune and herbs such as rosemary. Builds intensity after a broad, firm start. Structured, rugged wine with California at its heart, and a relative fine-ness. Good potential. Drink 2016-2027 Alc 14.5% The Ojai Vineyard, Solomon Hills Syrah, Santa Barbara 2009 91 N/A UK www.ojaivineyard.com JLL: Aromas of soaked red berries with floral touches on a rounded bouquet. The palate gives raspberry fruit with a crisp tingle; a real smooth-flow operator with a quiet, rocky grip on the finish. Handsome, perfumed and long. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 14.5% The Ojai Vineyard, Bien Nacido Vineyard Syrah, Santa Barbara 2010 89 N/A UK www.ojaivineyard.com JLL: Red cherry on a precise and smoky…

Gabay’s 10 to try Domaine de Pibarnon, Bandol 2015 96 £28 Les Caves de Pyrènes, Vin Cognito North-facing slopes on limestone provide lively acidity. Clairette gives fragrant floral aromas with ripe white peach, while the Bourboulenc offers backbone and minerality. A delightful wine. Drink 2016-2020 Alcohol 13.5% Clos Ste-Magdaleine, Bel Arme, Cassis 2014 96 £20 Yapp Bros Marsanne dominant, aged in cement tanks and eggs. Fine chalky acidity emphasises the creamy, herby quality of this wine. Ripe garrigue-scented fruit, hints of white peach and a salty mineral finish. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13% Château Constantin, Papillon, Luberon 2014 93 £16 AC Gaillie, Love Wine, Museum Wines, Williams Chase Australian winemaker Dale Clarke has brought out floral and white peach aromas with round, creamy white peach fruit and vibrant, well-integrated acidity from…

New Zealand Pinot Noir This challenging grape variety produces myriad styles across this small country, says Bob Campbell MW. The one constant is that quality is continually improving Map: Maggie Nelson SAUVIGNON BLANC MIGHT pay the bills, but New Zealand’s rising reputation as a fine wine producer is largely due to Pinot Noir. In just a few decades it has gone from experimental to exciting as Kiwi winemakers get the measure of this challenging grape variety. The real miracle is not just how far Pinot Noir quality has grown, but that it continues to grow strongly every year. Pinot Noir vines were first planted in the 19th century but fell victim to phylloxera. The variety returned to Kiwi soil in the 1970s and was put on the map when St…

Outstanding 95–97pts Lowburn Ferry, Home Block, Lowburn, Central Otago 2014 Decanter average score: 96/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 96 Christine Parkinson 96 Phillip Tuck MW 96 £27.95-£32.50 AC Gallie, Averys, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Daniel Lambert, Ellies Cellars, Hawkshead, James Nicholson, Love Wine, Vagabond, Worcester Wines, Grape & Grind, Slurp, South Downs Cellars, St Andrews Wine Co Owners Roger and Jean Gibbson have lived in the Lowburn Valley of Central Otago for 25 years and recognised the viticultural potential of a north-facing slope on their property. Roger holds a Masters degree in applied science and works part-time as a viticultural tutor at the Otago Polytech, while Jean has a degree in horticultural science. Their vineyard has been pasture for more than 100 years and is rich in organic matter. Melanie…

My top three Phillip Tuck MW • Lowburn Ferry, Home Block, Lowburn, Central Otago 2014 A mightily impressive and complex Pinot in an admirably understated, fresh and vivid cool-climate style. Generous without being rich, and stylish without being showy. I was underwhelmed by many examples from Central Otago but this wine shone. 96 Drink 2016-2018 • Palliser Estate, Great Hector Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2013 I’ve admirered Palliser since my first visit to them in 1993 and this is a fine example of the standards it aspired to back then and that it has clearly achieved in its wines today. 95 Drink 2016-2021 • Giesen, Clayvin Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2013 Although these three brothers are more renowned for their cool-climate Rieslings, this is a beautifully pure, balanced Pinot. There…

Expert summary: Bob Campbell MW The diversity of New Zealand Pinot Noir shone through, with elegant and robust, accessible and structured wines all scoring highly from both 2013 and 2014 ‘The judges get full marks for endorsing top wines in a number of different styles’ JUDGING NEW ZEALAND Pinot Noir from half a dozen different regions and as many different vintages poses a similar challenge to judging various breeds, ages and sexes of dogs at Crufts. It seems impossibly complex, but both involve using an established set of criteria as an objective measure. In the case of wine, judges look for flavour intensity or power, complexity, balance and length of flavour. They consider texture as well as flavour profile and other factors to help them arrive at a score and…

The judges Jim Budd Budd is the DWWA Regional Chair for Loire. He has written about wine since 1988 and contributed to Decanter since 1989. Budd also writes the awarded Jimsloire.blogspot.com and is a member of the Les5duvin.wordpress.com blog. He contributes to Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book and is a keen photographer. Andy Howard MW With more than 30 years’ experience as a buyer at retailer Marks & Spencer, Howard became a Master of Wine in 2011. In 2013, he left M&S to focus on his consultancy, Vinetrades. He writes regularly for Decanter and is also a wine judge. Chris Kissack Kissack has published the subscription site TheWinedoctor.com since 2000. He has focused on the Loire for many years, and has been a frequent visitor to the region since 1993, visiting domaines,…

My top three Chris Kissack • Domaine François Crochet, Les Perrois One of the leading names in Bué, which is one of Sancerre’s better addresses. Crochet’s wines translate all the minerally confidence of the Bué caillottes, so It was very rewarding to see one of his wines come out top in this tasting. 97 Drink 2016-2024 • Vincent Pinard, Flores One of the great vignerons of Sancerre, and one of several who helped shape the appellation into what it is today. The Flores cuvée, an entry-level wine, showed really well. This is certainly a domaine we should all get to know. 95 Drink 2017-2022 • Domaine Pierre Martin A young vigneron based in Chavignol. Martin’s domaine cuvée, tasted here, showed well, but for not much more money you could be…

Expert summary: Jim Budd The quality and balance of the attractive and consumer-friendly 2015s was evident, from established names and exciting young producers alike ‘This is a partial view of the 2015 Sancerres, although the overall potential of the vintage is clear’ 2015 IS A good and attractive vintage with plenty of ripe fruit, frequently showing white peach and grapefruit notes. It is likely to appeal to a larger number of consumers than the very good but more vibrant 2014 vintage, with its high levels of acidity. The difference is that 2015 was made by a good summer, whereas 2014 was saved by a hot, dry September after a poor summer. Our tasting of 2015 Sancerre took place in late June and was reserved for finished wines, so the majority…

UK stockists Where to find the wines featured in Decanter this month A&B Vintners (www.abvintners.co.uk) ABS Wine Agencies (www.abswineagencies.co.uk) AC Gallie (www.acgallie.com) Accolade Wines (www.accolade-wines.com) AG Wines (www.agwines.com) Aged in Oak (www.agedinoak.co.uk) Aitken Wines (www.aitkenwines.com) Alexander Hadleigh (www.ahadleigh-wine.com) All About Wine (www.allaboutwine.co.uk) Alliance Wine (www.alliancewine.co.uk) Alpine Wines (www.alpinewines.co.uk) Amazon (www.amazon.co.uk) Amps Fine Wines (www.ampsfinewines.co.uk) Andrew Darwin (www.adwines.co.uk) Appellation Wines (www.appellationwines.co.uk) Armit Wines (www.armit.co.uk) Artisvin (www.meadsvillage.com) Asda (www.asda.co.uk) Ask Wines (01277 823 183) Aske Wine (www.askewine.co.uk) Astrum Wine Cellars (www.astrumwinecellars.com) Atlas Wines (www.wineatlas.net) Australian Wines Online (www.australianwinesonline.co.uk) Averys (www.averys.com) Bacchanalia (www.winegod.co.uk) Bancroft (www.bancroftwines.com) Bargain Booze (www.bargainbooze.co.uk) Barton Brownsdon & Sadler (www.bbswine.com) Bay Tree Wine Co (www.baytreewine.com) Baythorne Hall (www.baythornehall.co.uk) Bedales (www.bedaleswines.com) Bentleys Wine (www.bentleyswine.com) Berkmann Wine (www.berkmann.co.uk) Berry Bros & Rudd (www.bbr.com) BI Wines (www.biwine.com) Bibendum PLB (www.bibendum-wine.co.uk) Bijou Bottles (www.bijoubottles.co.uk)…

YOUR CORBIERES ADDRESS BOOK HOTELS Château Haut-Gléon, Villesèque-des-Corbières Above the river Berre, this sensitively renovated estate offers three rooms in the imposing main house and seven more in well-equipped gîtes. Guests enjoy a pool with soothing views. www.hautgleon.com Château Le Bouïs, Gruissan A graceful 18th-century mansion with seven comfortable rooms is the centrepiece of this estate with sweeping vistas over vines to the sea. It’s near Gruissan: go and see how sea salt is hand-harvested from a mirrored chequerboard of shallow pools. www.chateaulebouis.fr Le Domaine d’Auriac, Carcassonne Marie-Hélène Rigaudis is the third generation of women to run this old-world Relais & Châteaux hotel on a former Carcassonne wine estate. Fine furniture and paintings add to its appeal, as do delightful gardens. www.domaine-d-auriac.com Maison de la Roche, Ferrals-les-Corbières Londoner Honor Marks…

Tasting notes decoded Hedgerow These shrubs, and occasionally trees, are used as natural roadside boundaries between fields. Dry white wines, such as Sancerre, often have these aromas – predominantly herbaceous, grassy and nettle-like – but they can also encompass the wild fruits and berries that grow on them too. Examples may include elderflower, gooseberry, or even raspberries, brambles and blackberries. Hedgerow as a descriptor in a tasting note, therefore, will often denote this fresh, green integration of fruit and plant. (Tasting note from p94)…

MacNeil’s baker’s dozen to try Failla, Hirsch Vineyard, Sonoma Coast 2014 95 £59.95 Stannary St Wine Co, Vin Cognito I love the clarity and precision of this wine and its expansive scope and length. Drinking it, you feel as though you’ve travelled deep into primordial earth and rock, yet the wine soars with an incredible lightness. The cascading flavours are nothing short of kinetic and captivating. In the April 2016 issue of Decanter I wrote that the 2012 vintage of Failla (Fay-la) was ‘poised in a delicious mythic land between Burgundy and California’. The 2014 is better. Drink 2016-2036 Alc 14.1% Williams Selyem, Westside Road Neighbors, Russian River Valley 2014 95 £115 Berkmann Wine Williams Selyem makes more than 20 Pinot Noirs and, I swear, every one of them is…

Kelley’s top 2013 Californian Cabernets Dunn Vineyards, Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa Valley 2013 97 £110 The Winery Aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, rich earth, spice and liquorice are followed by a palate of striking persistence and structural amplitude. In 2013 this is typically large-scaled, fresh and built for the long haul, but Mike Dunn’s thoughtful changes to the estate’s barrel programme have resulted in more refined tannins. Brettanomyces issues that plagued the Dunn wines about 15 years ago also seem long gone, so nothing should compromise their lovely evolution in the cellar. Drink 2023-2070 Alcohol 13.9% Harlan Estate, Oakville, Napa Valley 2013 97 POA Harrods, Thorman Hunt, Woodwinters Alluring aromas of juicy mulberry, black raspberry, graphite, dried herbs and rich cigar tobacco introduce a large-scaled wine framed by an ample…

New-name Napa wines to try Accendo Cellars, Sauvignon Blanc 2014 95 N/A UK www.accendocellars.com Anyone who has followed the Eisele Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc will be happy to know that the Araujos remain determined to preserve a vertical-build complexity in their whites. This plays prettily against some opulent stone fruits of nectarine and apricot here, giving a rich and nuanced finish. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 14% Cairdean Estate, Unoaked Chardonnay, Carneros 2014 92 N/A UK www.cairdeanestate.com Lime and honeysuckle on the nose. This is fermented at low temperatures, after whole-cluster pressing, and aged in stainless steel to preserve the fruits. There is a fat citrus core to remind you that the sunshine of Napa is never far away, and yet this has very pretty aromatics and a crisp contraction on the finish.…

Chardonnay for Burgundy lovers The evolution of Chardonnay in California continues, as cool sites, cool vintages and changes in winemaking styles produce more bottles that will appeal to Burgundy lovers, says Elin McCoy ‘Burgundy-style means minerality, elegance, texture, complexity, length and ageability’ Jim Clendenen, Au Bon Climat Photograph: George Rose/Getty Images LAST YEAR AT the West of West Wine Festival, held in the Sonoma town of Sebastopol, I moderated a comparative blind tasting of single-vineyard California Chardonnays and white Burgundies. Before the wine names were revealed, the panel of winemakers, the audience and I voted on the origins of each: was it from the West Sonoma Coast, the Russian River Valley or Burgundy? What surprised me was the number of California wines that many of us thought were from…

Jason Haas My Paso Robles If you’re keen to experience Paso Robles like a local, then follow the advice of Jason Haas from Tablas Creek Vineyard, as he shares his insider recommendations on places to go and things to do I WAS SITTING in our downtown park on a warm evening last summer, listening to a local band and watching my kids thread their way through the crowd with their friends, when I realised that this is what people want when they come to wine country. Moreover, it’s what we were looking for when we moved here 14 years ago, leaving behind a city life to join my family in working on our Tablas Creek project. We were drinking local rosé out of plastic tumblers, sitting with two other winemaking…

John Stimpfig ‘Decanter will not be vacating Europe’s vineyards’ ‘IN SUCCESS YOU deserve it, and in defeat you need it.’ So said Sir Winston Churchill about Champagne. You wonder what the greatest Briton of all time (as chosen in a BBC poll in 2002) would have made of the UK’s Brexit vote? Given that he led Britain to victory in World War II and then argued fervently in favour of European integration, I suspect he’d have been appalled. However, there would be no doubt as to his choice of fizz to drown his sorrows or toast his triumph. Pol Roger was his daily tipple – preferably served from imperial pints! Over the last few weeks, the main topic of conversation in the UK has been the post-referendum fallout. But it…

Around the wine world Photograph: Christopher Piper Wines Beaujolais hit by renewed hailstorms FRANCE The Beaujolais region has been hit by severe hailstorms for the second time in a month (pictured right), prompting calls for government aid to rescue hard-hit estates whose future may be at risk. Northern Beaujolais, including the region’s famous crus, suffered a violent hailstorm on the evening of 24 June, with the damage worsened by accompanying strong winds and 80mm of rain. Up to 80% of Fleurie’s vineyards were feared ‘totally destroyed’ by the hail, said its Mayor Frédéric Miguet, with a landslide spreading soil on the roads and potentially disrupting vineyards further. Moulin-à-Vent was also hard-hit: biodynamic winemaker Thibault Liger-Belair estimated that 75% of his 2016 crop was lost. Morgon was impacted, but the Côte…

Letter of the month Bordeaux blues I WAS A keen buyer of en primeur Bordeaux for more than 15 years, but I’ve become wary. Prices need to reflect the costs of capital (paying for something to be drunk 10 to 20 years later) and storage – and the risk that the final quality may not meet the expectation of barrel samples. I was hoping for 2015 release prices that made sense. Unfortunately, many gave me pause for thought. I can get 2005, ’09 and ’10 vintages for similar prices, and these will drink sooner. I’ll also save £50-£100/case on storage. How much longer until we Bordeaux lovers give up on the farce that en primeur has become? The only winners are the châteaux who pre-sell their wines, and the merchants…

Ageing Sauvignon Blanc Surely not? There are those who wouldn’t even put Sauvignon in their glass, let alone their cellar. But, says Peter Richards MW, winemakers the world over are now producing wines with the structure to improve over many years HERE’S A QUESTION for you. Be honest. When you reach for that special bottle of white wine you’ve been carefully ageing, how often is it a Sauvignon Blanc? I’d hazard a guess that the likes of Chardonnay and Riesling spring more readily to mind (and to hand) in this context. Nothing strange in that – from top sites and producers, these varieties have a proven track record of ageing and developing well. Indeed, sometimes they positively need bottle ageing in order to soften and blossom into their full potential.…

Haut-Bailly – a timeline 1461 Earliest records of vines on the estate’s gravelly rise 1630 Owners Firmin Le Bailly and Nicolas de Leuvarde expand and consolidate the vineyard to its present-day size of 33ha 1872 Alcide Bellot des Minières buys Haut-Bailly 1918 Haut-Bailly is bought by Frantz Malvesin 1955 Estate acquired by the Belgian Daniel Sanders 1979 Jean Sanders takes over from his father 1997 Véronique Sanders joins Haut-Bailly 1998 Robert G Wilmers purchases the property from the Sanders family 2000 Véronique Sanders appointed estate manager (and subsequently president) 2002 Gabriel Vialard becomes technical director 2012 Robert G Wilmers buys and renovates Château Le Pape…

The Californian delegation Adam Tolmach, The Ojai Vineyard Vineyards in Santa Barbara and Ojai; was part of Au Bon Climat, and since 2005 has been moving right away from big, high-intensity wines in favour of leaner, fresher models. ‘Since the 2008 crash, people have gone more and more to cooler areas. I am super-excited about it. It’s like a craft for me, so you have to keep learning how to be better.’ Last Rhône visit 1981. Paul & Jackie Gordon, Halcón Vineyards High vineyards in Mendocino County; 5.7ha Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre. Syrah cuttings from J-L Chave planted 2005. Moving from destemmed to whole-bunch fermentation. Low application of sulphur in the vineyard. Matt Brady, winemaker at Jaffurs Wine Cellars Santa Barbara-based; seven Syrahs are made, five of them from single vineyards.…

Rosa Kruger South Africa’s most famous viticulturist tells Tim Atkin MW of her uncompromising working style and her unshakeable belief in the Cape’s unique terroirs Photograph: Riehan Bakkes/Bakkes Images ‘I don’t work for the bosses, I work with the people in the vineyards’ THE AIR INSIDE Rosa Kruger’s 4x4 is turning blue with expletives. Somehow the swear words sound even more forceful in Afrikaans, spat at the windscreen in disgust. This is road rage, South African style, and the country’s most famous viticulturist is visibly shaking with anger. ‘Fok, man,’ she says, pointing to a pile of deracinated vines by the side of the road in Piekenierskloof. ‘They’ve pulled out one of the oldest Palomino vineyards in the Cape to plant citrus trees. It was on its own roots too.…

Evans’ dream dozen from Bierzo Raúl Pérez, Ultreia, La Claudina 2013 93 £39-£50 The Sampler, Vin Cognito Godello grown on sand, slowly fermented in 500-litre casks with no lees stirring. It also grows a veil of flor yeast in the spring. Nutty, with a very pure, saline palate – no gentle fruit here. It’s an acquired taste, for sure, but altogether an original. Drink 2017-2021 Alc 13.5% Mengoba, Brezo Blanco 2014 91 £12 Joseph Barnes A very appealing blend of 80% Godello fermented in foudres and 20% Doña Blanca in stainless steel. Mineral and lean on the palate, with the distinctly Burgundian character the best Godellos have. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 12.5% Descendientes de J Palacios, La Faraona 2015 97 £462-£464 (ib) Berry Bros & Rudd, Bowes, Highbury Vintners, WoodWinters Still…

Spurrier’s World Decanter’s globetrotting consultant editor gives us a round-up of recent tastings, his views on current issues in the wine world and top bottles to drink or keep ‘May involved almost continuous re-creations and celebrations on both sides of the Atlantic’ Paris 1976-2016 ‘Look back in wonder’ was the theme of a lunch and a dinner at Macéo restaurant in Paris on 25 May, a day after the 40th anniversary of the now-famous blind tasting that my L’Académie du Vin wine school organised, to show nine of France’s best palates our pick of Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons from California alongside the benchmarks from Burgundy and Bordeaux. From 12-28 May, I was involved in continuous re-creations and celebrations of the Judgement of Paris on both sides of the Atlantic, all…

The results With 116 wines Recommended or above, and many as low as £11, this was a succesful tasting from ‘the best Pinot-producing country outside France’, says Christelle Guibert WITH 172 WINES on show, from a country that has built up a reputation for phenomenal Pinot Noir, it was not surprising that our three experts were excited about this tasting; expectations were very high. Philip Tuck MW believes that New Zealand makes the best Pinot Noir outside France – a view shared by Christine Parkinson. ‘It’s definitely the best New World producer at the moment, though there are other countries trying to catch up,’ she said. ‘What makes New Zealand interesting is the combination of fruit purity, the delightful acidity thanks to a relatively cool climate, intelligent winemaking and moderate…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Wild South, Pinot Noir, Marlborough 2015 93 MB 94 CP 93 PT 92 £11.95-£15.95 Bancroft, Concept Fine Wines, Hawkshead, Slurp, Simply Wines Direct, St Andrews Wine Co, The Art of Wine Vibrant crushed raspberries, spice, cocoa, liquorice and Darjeeling tea. Driven by acidity and showing earthy, nutty flavours that lead to a pretty finish. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13% Black Quail Estate, Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, Central Otago 2013 92 MB 92 CP 92 PT 93 £27.75 Goedhuis & Co Initial jammy characters follow through onto lots of spicy oak, ginger and cinnamon giving way to a buttery nuttiness that is complex and charming. The balance is really quite seamless with a wonderful juicy texture. Impressive. Drink 2016-2018 Alc 13.5% Wairau River, Reserve, Marlborough 2014 92 MB 89 CP…

My top three Melanie Brown • Pegasus Bay, Pinot Noir, Waipara, Canterbury 2013 Bright and vibrant with ample structure and poise. Layers of fruit intensity and oak integration. An acid backbone supports minerality and gentle savoury notes. Pinot Perfection. 95 Drink 2016-2018 • Mount Edward, Pinot Noir, Central Otago 2013 Wonderful richness and appeal; Pinot purity at its best. Defined florals dance on the palate supported by good fruit weight, and intriguing texture that leads to a generous length. 91 Drink 2016-2017 • Seresin, Rachel, Marlborough 2012 Sadly not on form here, but usually a powerful and complex wine, showing crushed berry fruits, herbal aromatics and fine-grained tannins. Charismatic and rich, it captures the essence of Marlborough. 86 Drink 2016-2018…

Highly Recommended 90–94pts Anthony Girard, La Clef du Récit Decanter average score: 95/100pts* Judges’ scores: Jim Budd 94 Andy Howard MW 95 Chris Kissack 95 £15.60-£17.50 Genesis, Nickolls & Perks Biscuity aromas and a fresh, peachy, vivacious palate. Depth and polish, not too fruit-driven, relying on that flinty edge and an appealingly stony finish. Drink 2016-2023 Alcohol 12.5% Domaine François Crochet, Les Perrois : 95* JB 94 AH 95 CK 97 £19.95 Alliance Wine, Shepherds Market Fine Wine Delicate citrus and grapefruit aromas. Toasted almond notes on the palate with grilled white peach and orange pith. Crisp, but no trace of greenness. Focused, very rounded and complete. Drink 2016-2024 Alc 13% Domaine Serge Laloue 94 JB 92 AH 95 CK 96 £16.95 Laytons Light citric notes and a smoky, bright…

My top three Jim Budd • Domaine Paul Prieur & Fils A family estate in Verdigny now run by Luc Prieur, one of several very exciting young producers who are carrying their domaines to new heights. I loved the rich texture and delightfully vibrant peach and apricot fruit. 96 Drink 2017-2022 • Domaine du Nozay This lovely Sancerre comes from a 15ha domaine founded by Philippe de Benoist in 1970, in the north of the appellation. It has a very attractive, mouthfilling texture and ripe grapefruit flavours, and will benefit from further time in bottle. 95 Drink 2018-2023 • Domaine Michel Vattan, Cuvée Argile Now owned by Pascal Joulin, who impressed me 20 years ago when he was making wine in the Côtes de La Charité. This cuvée has grassy…

Volcanic wines Mineral-rich soils from volcanic terroirs give their wines a distinct stylistic fingerprint, says Andy Howard MW, who recommends 18 individual examples worth seeking out ‘A distinctive mineral edge to the palate gives the wines tautness, salinity and freshness’ THE RAW, DESTRUCTIVE power of a volcano might not usually be associated with the production of distinctive, high-quality wines. Indeed, the devastating effects of eruptions in Santorini (c1600 BC), Vesuvius (79 AD) and the more regular – and recent – outbursts of Mount Etna provide sound arguments as to why winemakers should choose to plant their precious vines elsewhere. In reality, many regions are volcanic in their historical geological origin but have not been influenced by recent activity – for example, the Massif Central of France, Madeira, Washington State, Veneto,…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge Email: ask@decanter.com. Post: The Editor, Decanter , Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark Street, London SE1 0SU, UK This month’s experts Stephen Mould is senior director and head of the European Wine department at Sotheby’s Daniel Primack is owner of wine glass, accessories and storage company Winerackd Julia Trustram-Eve is marketing director of English Wine Producers Valuing ‘perfect’ labels… Last month I ordered and received from my merchant a mixed case of claret from various 1980s and 1990s vintages. The bottle of Pétrus 1987 (pictured below) is considered unacceptable to the current market due its label condition. However, it was a great bottle for the purchased value of nearly half that of its perfect…

Brexit: the aftermath Crystal balls are out as pundits try to predict what the UK’s split from Europe means for London as a global trading post, en primeur, exchange rates and demand – and your investments Compiled by Richard Woodard Photograph: Delphotos/Alamy AS THE UK, Europe and the wider world digested the shock result of the EU referendum, there were immediate effects on the fine wine market, and the business of London-based merchants in particular. First, it quashed any lingering signs of life in 2015 Bordeaux en primeur sales. Another less-than-inspiring campaign – despite the wines’ generally decent quality – was put out of its misery as an already low sterling fell to new depths. This also sparked a splurge of buying from collectors in the US and Asia (and…

Collector’s corner Hennessy 8 Cognac POA Harrods A blend of eight eauxde-vie, seven chosen by outgoing Hennessy master blender Yann Fillioux and the last by his successor and nephew Renaud Fillioux de Gironde. A first global release of just 100 bottles. Le Grand Cros, Aurélia Rosé 2015 £29 Pall Mall Fine Wines, Asset Wines, Pavilion Wines Handpicked at 50hl/ha with separate vinification of each parcel, this Côtes de Provence is a blend of 50% Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah. Taittinger 2008 £35 (ib) Lay & Wheeler Half Pinot Noir and half Chardonnay in a year in which both excelled for many, 2008 is the finest Champagne vintage since 2002. Freshness and concentration in perfect balance.…

Precious liquid California has been suffering from a drought for years. Cathy Huyghe assesses the effects on its wine production, from the vineyard to the glass ‘We have to be a good steward of our water rights, because the state could easily take them away’ Glenn Salva, Antica Napa Valley Photographs: Jason Tinacci(2) HERE IS ONE of the unexpected ways you’d know that California’s drought is very serious business: when you’re dining in a restaurant, you need to ask for a glass of water. It’s no longer just brought to your table automatically. It’s a small example, but it gives us pause. Every single time. And it leads to a long list of questions about environmental conditions in the state that also happens to be the world’s eighth largest…

New names in Napa It takes determination and serious investment to establish a winery in Napa Valley today, but some have succeeded. Jane Anson introduces the latest crop of promising arrivals Photograph: Jason Tinacci ‘This whole part of the northern valley, from St Helena up through Calistoga, is experiencing a moment of renewal with new winery and tourism projects’ Marcus Marquez, Cairdean Estate TRACKING NEW PROJECTS in Napa has long been a fascinating spectator sport, but this invitation from a recent newcomer was particularly hard to resist. As soon as I was able, I got into my car and headed north up Highway 29, a few kilometres past the Culinary Institute of America. Until 2007, this spot was the St Helena Marketplace, an outlet mall with tenants including Brooks Brothers,…

Deconstructing Sonoma A fascinating region with 400+ wineries, Sonoma is worth getting to grips with. Jordan Mackay offers an overview of its AVAs, wine styles and leading producers Photograph: MJ Wickham. Map: Maggie Nelson WHEN IT COMES to wine, Sonoma county is a land of contradictions. It’s both hot and cold. It’s both dry and lush. It’s both tradition-bound and progressive. These oppositions can be simultaneously true because, of all California’s many winemaking counties, Sonoma is the most sprawling, disorganised and diverse. All told, Sonoma contains 25,000ha (hectares) of vines, the second highest total in the state (after a Central Valley county that grows mostly bulk wine). It is home to more than 400 wineries and holds 17 AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) – some tiny and specific, others so laughably…

Changes in California What are the current issues and latest trends for California wines? John Stimpfig gets the inside story from the tastemakers themselves IF YOU REALLY want to know what’s happening now and in the future to great wine in the Golden State, who better to ask than its most talented, innovative and experienced winemakers? A survey of the leading players reveals distinct trends emerging in both the vineyard and winery, resulting in new and refined wine styles. In the vineyard, climate change and sustainability are key concerns. As Chris Carpenter, winemaker at Lokoya, Cardinale and La Jota sums up: ‘From a California winemaker’s perspective, the most important trends that we’re tracking are twofold. The first are climate-related and the second are the general effects our industry has on…

TRAVEL: PASO ROBLES Map: Maggie Nelson 1 Hotel Cheval This 16-room boutique hotel brought a new level of luxury to Paso Robles when it opened in 2007. It’s still the town’s classiest spot to stay, with live music evenings in the Pony Club bar and the benefit of its location, just half a block from the town’s restaurants in the downtown park. www.hotelcheval.com 2 The Abalone Farm in Cayucos Abalone fishing has a long history, but decades of over-harvesting mean that to try abalone you must travel to Cayucos, whose kelp forests are home to one of California’s three licensed fisheries. Visits are by appointment and are a fascinating look at the journey this mollusc makes from spawn to plate. www.abalonefarm.com 3 The Hatch Rotisserie & Bar or Bistro Laurent?…

Wine world digests Brexit shock compiled by Richard Woodard Photograph: Andrey Kuzmin/Alamy Stock Photo; AXA Millésimes/deepix.com UK The wine world is still getting to grips with the likely ramifications of the UK vote to leave the European Union, with fine wine price rises and increased market share for New World-producing countries among the possible consequences (see also Market Watch, p113). Wine merchants based in the UK reported brisk trading from Asia and the US in particular as buyers sought to take advantage of the falling value of the pound in the wake of the Brexit vote result. Sterling’s 31-year low also signalled an abrupt end to the Bordeaux 2015 en primeur campaign. There are fears that UK wine lovers will suffer as a result of the UK’s exit from the…

In brief World number one men’s tennis player Novak Djokovic plans to produce wine in his native Serbia after buying land to start a vineyard in the Oplenac sub-region, part of the Sumadija region. Djokovic, who suffered a shock exit at Wimbledon in July and surrendered his men’s singles title to Andy Murray, may build a winery in 2017 or 2018, with planting likely to start next spring. Jonathan Maltus, British owner of wine estates in Bordeaux and Napa, was awarded an OBE for services to wine and winemaking in the Queen’s Birthday Honours List. Best known for his work at Château Teyssier in St-Emilion, which he bought in 1994, Maltus dedicated the award to all those who have worked with him. More than 12 Bordeaux châteaux are now part…

Andrew Jefford ‘Guibert moved the region forward in a way locals would never have’ ST-GUILHEM-LE-DESERT IS A ribbon-like medieval village in the Languedoc, squeezed into a narrow side-valley of the river Hérault, surrounded by a towering chaos of rocky hills and unplanted forest. It was there, a week ago, shaded from the bright May sunlight by the enormous, companionable plane tree planted in the mid-19th century in the village square, that I waited, with the Guibert family and other mourners from the Languedoc wine world, for the coffin of Aimé Guibert. The bell of the Abbaye Gellone tolled slowly. The limestone peaks and cliffs returned no echo, but they held the sound for a while. In the dark, thin abbey, most of Aimé Guibert’s nine surviving children bade farewell to…

50 top rosés from around the world Our experts have tasted through a record 322 rosés to bring you 50 of the best available in the UK today. Elizabeth Gabay MW analyses the results ROSE WINE SALES developed from the bottom up, gaining momentum due to its uncomplicated style and pretty colour. The growth in premium rosé is changing this category, as more complex wines appear. Although there were no scores above 93 in this mammoth tasting, 40 were Highly Recommended and 79 Recommended. French premium rosé dominated, but Spain, Italy and South Africa also fielded good examples. Origin, however, is not a guarantor of quality or style – although Provence rosés do generally have the edge. The best wines showed a complex range of fruit characters (strawberry, redcurrant, cherry,…

10 Sauvignon Blancs that will go the distance Dog Point, Section 94, Marlborough, New Zealand 2013 96 £19-£25 Cambridge Wine, Hennings, James Nicholson, Laithwaite’s, The Wine Society, Vin Cognito, Woodwinters Stunning intensity. Smoky, citrus-infused, spicy and compelling. It’s a full-on oaked style but is also very harmonious and savoury. Tremendous stuff. Drink 2016-2022 Alc 14% Reyneke Reserve White, Stellenbosch, South Africa 2012 95 £24 (2013) Connolly’s, Harvey Nichols, James Nicholson, The Guildford Wine Co, SA Wines Online A beautiful single-block, barrel-aged Sauvignon from this inspired biodynamic producer. This is nutty, citric, mineral-infused and super-gastronomic. Drink 2016-2023 Alc 13.9% Aquitania, Sol de Sol Sauvignon Blanc, Traiguén, Malleco Valley, Chile 2014 94 £19.95 Winety Elegance from the cool, cloudy south of Chile’s wine territory. Tense acidity and discreet oaking mean this Sauvignon…

Haut-Bailly: definitive vintages Château Haut-Bailly 2010 98 £121-£125 BI Wines, Millésima Possibly Haut-Bailly’s best-ever vintage, comprising power and depth alongside subtlety and finesse. The flavour spectrum spans ink, lead pencil, cassis, black cherry, graphite and smoked meat. Breathtaking balance and length. Drink 2020-2055 Alc 14% Château Haut-Bailly 2008 95 £45.83-£100 BI Wines, Millésima 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot. A wine of the vintage. It’s all here: bright cherry and cassis, subtle sandalwood, density and softness, refined, gliding tannins, freshness with restrained power and wonderful presence throughout. Drink 2016-2040 Alc 13% Château Haut-Bailly 2001 95 £45-£60 BI Wines, Millésima 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot. Arguably even better than the brilliant 2000. Plush, concentrated and fine with melting tannins, concentration and sublime acidity. Gorgeous cassis and cigar-box bouquet, intense blackcurrant, plum, sandalwood…

A taste of the Rhône Notes by: JLL, John Livingstone-Learmonth; BB, Bradley Brown; JD, Jason Drew; MB, Matt Brady Thiérry Allemand, Reynard, Cornas 2010 98 £85 Berry Bros & Rudd, Fields Morris & Verdin JLL: Graceful intensity on the nose, with black olives and black cherries; insistent, gliding palate, this is so complete, and finishes with delicacy. BB: Full-on, expansive, generous nose, a complex melange of tobacco, flowers, red and black fruits. Dark juice in an intensely vibrant palate, with layers expanding on finish. Drink 2021-2042 Alcohol 13% Domaine Gonon, Vieilles Vignes, St-Joseph 2009 95 POA Vine Trail JLL: Shows ripe Syrah depth in a nose that breathes minerality. Very fine, very cool for a 2009, intricate. The air brings a blood intensity. JD: A wine with extreme site expression.…

Provence: beyond rosé This hot, sunny southeastern corner of France is rightly famed for its pale, full-bodied rosés, as well as its stunning scenery and Mistral wind. But a revival is underway, bringing the region’s quality white and red wines back into prominence, says Elizabeth Gabay MW ‘Bandol is still the place where Mourvèdre reigns supreme’ THE FASHION FOR rosé may have dominated the Provence wine scene, but over the past couple of years its reds and whites have been moving from being merely good to truly excellent. Increasingly I have come away from tastings excited by the vibrancy of the whites and the rich elegance of the reds. Producers are now clamouring for recognition, and the signs are that red wine production is regaining some of its former relevance,…

Steven recommends... Benjamin Bridge, Méthode Classique Rosé, Nova Scotia, Canada 2011 91 £33.50 Friarwood A 43% Pinot Meunier, 42% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay from the coolest of cool climates in Nova Scotia’s Gaspereau Valley. A vivaciously lively, pale pink sparkler whose 14% dosage balances the 11% acidity. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 11.5% Broglia, Gavi di Gavi, Piedmont, Italy 2015 91 £15-£16 AC Gaillie, Love Wine, Waitrose, Waitrose Cellar A fine, fruity Gavi with a touch of spice and dry honey notes from high vineyards in the heart of the commune. Tank-fermented, no oak, lively and fresh with lots of character. Drink 2016-2019 Alc 12.5% Domaine des Moirots, Le Vieux Château, Montagny 1er Cru, Burgundy, France 2014 91 £15.95-£19 AC Gaillie, Love Wine, Oddbins Much Montagny Chardonnay lacks the character of its…

The judges Melanie Brown Driven by the desire to highlight New Zealand’s most exciting producers, Brown played a fundamental role in transforming the wine list of chef Peter Gordon’s The Providores and Tapa Room in London into the largest offering of premium New Zealand wine in the UK. From this she established her own wine retailer, The New Zealand Cellar, followed by a wine bar and shop in Brixton. Christine Parkinson Parkinson started her career as a head chef, gaining responsibility for 39 restaurants. She then decided to follow her passion for wine and, in 2001, created the first wine list for chef Alan Yau’s Hakkasan Group in London. She is a regular judge at wine competitions and has been called ‘one of the most creative wine buyers in the…

Recommended 86–89pts Commended 83-85pts • Auntsfield, Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Southern Valleys, Marlborough 2013 85, 14.5%, 2016-2018, £18.50 Cadman Fine Wines, Kingsgate Wines, The Oxford Wine Co, The Somerset Wine Co, Woods Wines • Cambridge Road, Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2011 85, 13%, 2016-2021, £41.49 Les Caves de Pyrène, Highbury Vintners, The Good Wine Shop, Toasted • Domaine-Thomson, Explorer, Central Otago 2013 85, 13.5%, 2016-2019, £21.95 Berry Bros & Rudd, The New Zealand Cellar • Kim Crawford, Pinot Noir, South Island 2014 85, 13%, 2016-2016 £14.99 Askew Wines, Carruthers & Kent, Eton Vintners, Noel Young, The New Zealand House of Wine, The Secret Cellar • Mahana, Pinot Noir, Nelson 2013 85, 13.5%, 2016-2018, £22.99 Bedales • Valli, Gibbston, Central Otago 2014 85, 13.5%, 2016-2020, £46.50 New Generation McKinley • Blank Canvas,…

My top three Christine Parkinson Lowburn Ferry, Home Block, Lowburn, Central Otago 2014 An intensely perfumed, succulent wine. The distinctly silky texture is a hallmark of this sub-region. This wine is really building on the quality it has shown from the start. 96 Drink 2016-2018 Greywacke, Southern Valleys, Marlborough 2013 Winemaker Kevin Judd believes the Greywacke soils give character and minerality to his wines. This one certainly has an elegant texture and savoury, almost earthy edge to the ripe cherry fruit. 95 Drink 2016-2019 Kusuda, Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2014 Vibrant and charming with very pure fruit and well calibrated oak. Hiro Kusuda is one of the most meticulous producers, and his attention to detail has created a wine that is vivid yet delicate. 90 Drink 2016-2018…

The results A stellar 55% of entries scoring Highly Recommended underlined the consistency in quality from these ripe, approachable wines. Tina Gellie reports on the discussion THE 2015 VINTAGE is an attractive buy for consumers, said Andy Howard MW: ‘It’s an easy introduction to the joys of the region’s wines – yes, at the riper end of the spectrum still but with that flinty minerality underneath.’ He said there was a real stone fruit character in many of the wines submitted which ‘stood out as not very Sancerre’, but none ‘went over the line’ in terms of ripeness, with many in a more traditional, leaner style. While there were no wines scored 95 points or above by all three tasters, the fact that 46 of the 83 entries (55%) were…

Recommended 86–89pts Commended 83-85pts • Armand Salmon 85, 13%, 2016-2018, £14.99 Fine Wines Direct UK • David & Luc Girard, Domaine de Champarlan 85, 13%, 2016-2017, N/A UK +33 (0)2 48 69 58 44 • Domaine Paul Vattan, Pente de Maimbray 85, 12.5%, 2016-2017, £17.27 (2014) Vinatis • Domaine Reverdy Ducroux, Beau Roy 85, 13%, 2016, £16 Sainsbury’s • Laporte, Le Rochoy 85, 13.5%, 2016-2017, £19.95 Ellis of Richmond, Roberson • Hubert Brochard, Aujourd’Hui Comme Autrefois 84, 14%, 2017-2024, £20 Gerrard Seel • Gitton Père & Fils, Les Herses 83, 13%, 2019-2024, £POA Wine Source Group • Vincent Gaudry 83, 12.5%, 2016-2017, POA Grape & Grain, Hermitage Cellars, Scarlet Wines, The Guildford Wine Co, The Whalley Wine Shop Fair 76-82pts • Domaine Bonnard 81 • La Gemière 81 • Henry…

My top three Andy Howard MW • Domaine Michel Vattan, Cuvée Argile This is a classic example of terres blanches Sancerre. Density, drive and balance are all in evidence on the palate and the wine has a smoky edge, which suggests some heavier, clay soils in the vineyard. 96 Drink 2016-2019 • Claude Riffault, Les Boucauds A very bright, focused and polished Sancerre from the terres blanches. Purity and minerality shine through, no doubt assisted by the careful, organic approach of Claude’s son and winemaker Stéphane Riffault. 95 Drink 2016-2020 • Domaine Serge Laloue In Thauvenay to the south of Sancerre, this 20ha family estate is dominated by silex (flint), which imparts power and backbone to the wine. Pithy, grapefruit characters with grip and focus. Very classy and long. 95…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s tastings director, Christelle Guibert, has done the hard work for you by picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines at under £20 – all UK-available * denotes supermarket and high-street wines Riva di Franciacorta, Franciacorta Brut, Lombardy, Italy NV 90 £17-£19.50 The Sampler, The Secret Cellar Italophiles who wish to trade up from Prosecco, try this. Made in the same way as Champagne from the same varieties (90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir), it is aged on its lees for 20 months. Peach and apple with floral and lime hints on a weighty yet crisp, fresh palate. Alcohol 12% Stephanie Lassolle, Le Blanc qui Tente, Vin de France 2015 91 £16 Aubert Mascolli…

Grape varieties with Julia Harding MW Photograph: Wink Lorch Trousseau Although this variety is more widely planted in Portugal and Spain than in northeast France (known most commonly as Bastardo in the first and Merenzao or Maturana Tinta in the second), Trousseau is thought to come from the Jura. This is based on a parent-offspring relationship with Savagnin and its ampelographic similarity with a cluster of varieties in that part of France. Although it is not easy to ripen fully, it has benefited from the fashion for all things Jura, especially in the US, where there are minor plantings in California. When the grapes are fully ripe, wines are more deeply coloured and powerful than those made from Poulsard, Jura’s other red, and have good ageing potential. With age, they…

In brief Penfolds’ clinic turns 25 years old The Penfolds Re-Corking Clinic – a ‘health check’ for older vintages of its wines – marks its 25th year with a world tour. In London on 30 September, it covers the inspection, opening (if needed), assessment, topping up, certification and recapsuling of Penfolds wines that are at least 15 years old. For details: Penfolds. com/en-gb/wine-advice/ recorking-clinic-registration Anthony Hanson MW retires Christie’s senior consultant Anthony Hanson MW retired at the end of June after more than 15 years in the role. Involved in 11 Hospices de Beaune auctions from 2005, Hanson helped elevate proceeds from the charity sales to record levels and will retain a consultancy role with the auction house’s wine department. Jasper Morris MW will run the next Hospices sale in November.…

Hammer highlights • Sotheby’s, Hong Kong, 4 June: At a Palmer sale, a 225-litre barrel of 2015 (plus château visit, dinner) sold for HK$3.06m (high estimate: HK$700,000); 12 bottles of 1961 sold for HK$465,500 (high e: HK$500,000); 12 bottles of 1959 sold for HK$367,500 (high e: HK$400,000); three magnums of 1961 sold for HK$367,500 (high e: HK$240,000); one double magnum of 1961 sold for HK$294,000 (high e: HK$200,000); three magnums of 1959 sold for HK$269,500 (high e: HK$200,000); six magnums of Vin Blanc de Palmer 2010 sold for HK$58,800 (high e: HK$18,000); three bottles of 1928 sold for HK$196,000 (high e: HK$180,000). • Sotheby’s, London, 15 June: six bottles of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC), Romanée-Conti 1990 sold for £68,150 (high e: £65,000); six bottles of DRC, Les Gaudichots, Vosne…

Château Angélus 1985 St-Emilion, Bordeaux, France A legend because… This was the year in which Hubert de Boüard de Laforest took over the running of this St-Emilion estate from his father and uncle. At this time there were only a few barrels in the Angélus cellars, and they had been introduced by de Boüard from 1981 onwards. Overall quality was lacklustre. De Boüard, an oenologist, set about changing all this, and in 2012 would see the promotion of Angélus to the dizzy heights of Premier Grand Cru Classé A, alongside Ausone, Cheval Blanc and Pavie. Looking back In the 1950s Angélus had been highly regarded and took its place as a grand cru classé. But in the 1960s and ’70s quality slumped, as it did almost everywhere in Bordeaux, due…