Innehållsförteckning för April 2025 från Decanter

Scoring in the spotlight On a flying visit (my first) to Italy’s beautiful sparkling wine region Franciacorta last week, I could sense a general frustration that the mainly excellent wines, made by the traditional method, are not better known abroad. A sad inevitability, given only 12% of the production is exported. It is in just such a situation that scoring can be helpful. Wine adventurers, who come across unfamiliar sparkling wines priced at the same level as Champagne, may be given the reassurance they need to buy after seeing a high score given by a taster or outlet they hold in high regard. There’s no doubt that many consumers find wine scores useful – hence our use of them in Decanter. But some judges and critics score reluctantly, worrying that…

I write as 2025 is still getting underway: a moment when wineries and winemakers often reach out to wine communicators. There’ll be a snowy photo of the vines in winter, or merry harvesters throwing their baskets in the air, with a scrawled signature. Occasionally I’m sent a list of wines with all the scores obtained in the previous year, like a wonk’s school report; or I get a request for a date – at one of the wine fairs the owners will soon attend. I glance, note… recycle. And then out tumbled this: ‘What I Believe: Welcome to the corner of my consciousness.’ I unfolded the brightly coloured A2 sheet. On it, there were 10 points, beginning with ‘Enthusiasm’ (great!) and ending with ‘You are what you think, feel and…

Often pigeonholed alongside Cognac, Armagnac is a distinctive spirit that deserves its own place in the spotlight. If you want to explore this French grape brandy, sourced from vineyards across Gascony, here are five to try… 1 Baron de Sigognac 10 Year Old £44-£61/70cl Widely available From a still that dates back to 1921 comes this classic expression of the Bas-Armagnac region – albeit with Ugni Blanc, rather than Baco, to the fore. Chiaroscuro notes of dark fruit, flowers and dry spice, especially chilli and black pepper. Characterful, distinctive and perfectly balanced. Alcohol 40% 2 Château de Bordeneuve Hors d’Age £50/70cl The Wright Wine Co Providing a masterclass in the art of blending, this showcases the charm of the Ugni Blanc grape variety overlaid with the grip and character of…

Ask Decanter Each month our experts answer your burning wine questions. Email your queries to editor@decanter.com Age before beauty? Q When running a wine tasting of several wines across multiple vintages, is it preferable to start with the older wines or the younger ones? Andrew Sims, London AFederico Moccia, head sommelier at London private members club 67 Pall Mall, replies: Personally, I like to start with the older wines, in order to be able to fully capture their subtlety and nuance. Older wines tend to have more complexity, so our brain and nose need to be fresh in order to appreciate them. As a sommelier, I want to showcase the wines at their best – and older wines tend to be more fragile and might not last as long in…

Name Tom Manchester Location The Palos Verdes peninsula, about 35km south of Los Angeles, California Approximate number of bottles The ‘cellar’ is a Vinotemp cooler unit that holds 700 bottles and a ‘ready rack’ in the dining room that holds about 75 bottles. My latest inventory shows around 500 bottles. How long has it taken you to build your cellar? I started in 1984, when I lived in Connecticut – 1982 Bordeaux was on sale then at quite reasonable prices! Have too much Zinfandel. I have a wine club membership with Ridge Vineyards in the Santa Cruz mountains. They make the best Zinfandel in the world. They also make a lot of it and we don’t drink that much of it. It ages gracefully, but periodically I have to ask…

Right Bank: Vignobles K’s new Bordeaux expression GEORGIE HINDLE Bordeaux has a reputation for tradition, so it’s always nice to see new and innovative cuvées hit the market. This one is a blend crafted to showcase the essence of the region’s ‘right bank’ (of the Dordogne river and Gironde estuary) in a single bottle. Inspired by the diversity of terroirs within the Vignobles K stable, Right Bank 2022 draws from five of the group’s seven estates: Le Rey, Enclos de Viaud, La Patache, Bellefont-Belcier and Tour St Christophe. General manager Jean-Christophe Meyrou says it ‘captures the exuberance of Castillon’s blue clay, the silky tannins of Lalande de Pomerol and Pomerol, and the freshness of St-Emilion limestone’. Produced in a limited run of just 5,000 bottles, the 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet…

Deeply rooted in the winemaking history of Piedmont, Asti DOCG and Moscato d’Asti DOCG deserve greater attention. A UNESCO World Heritage site of timeless charm, the region’s vineyards are planted on the sun-exposed slopes of limestone hills. The vineyard area of these two denominations is the largest in Piedmont, with roughly 10,000ha spread across the three provinces of Alessandria, Asti and Cuneo, and can be split into two distinct macro-zones: the steeper, tougher soils of the Langhe and the gentler hills of Monferrato. We are in the land of Moscato Bianco, part of the extensive family of Moscati present all over Europe and loved by noble courts in past centuries for its perfumes and refreshing sweetness. Asti Spumante: a natural ‘lo-wine’ Representing almost two-thirds of Asti’s total annual production of…

RAFFAELE MOSCA Who? A freelance wine writer and FIS (Fondazione Italiana Sommelier) Executive Wine Master based in Rome and Abruzzo, Raffaele is founder of sommelierlife.it and contributes to Gambero Rosso’s print magazine What? Discover lesser-known Italian native grape varieties – and some that have transformed their reputation, with Raffaele as your expert guide Why? Native grape varieties have long captured the attention of Italian wine lovers. But most will never have heard of Rossese di Dolceacqua, or understand how Trebbiano Spoletino differs from regular Trebbiano. Discover Raffaele’s pick of underrated native grapes before seeking out his selection of six wines to try MALU LAMBERT Who? A widely published and awarded wine writer based in South Africa, Malu is a taster for the annual Platter’s Wine Guide and a wine judge,…

In the spirit of cooperation, I nominate fine wine to be everyone’s collective punchbag. Our society has been fractured by political schism. We need a common cause – something we can all agree to impose 200% tariffs on. While wine’s reputation suffers from its new status as a carcinogen, oligarchs presiding over the Second American Gilded Age engage in hyperbaric therapy, light therapy and cryotherapy. They take longevity drugs, pop supplements, swap out their blood plasma and follow strict diet and exercise regimens. In this milieu, wine appreciation feels positively transgressive. Why not kick it while it’s down? The surest way to ensure wine’s demise is to politicise it. And this is already happening. Carlin Karr, director of wine & beverage at the highly regarded Frasca Hospitality Group in Colorado,…

An embarrassment of riches is an apt way to describe South Africa’s winemaking talent. The last couple of decades have seen the rise and rise of the country’s wine – in both quality and international visibility. South Africans have a way of capturing the imagination. They seem to understand that in order to sell their wines, they have to hook you in first. The biggest fishing expedition of recent history was the now-famous inaugural New Wave South Africa tasting in 2015, held in the basement of a record shop in London’s Soho. The South Africans won hearts and palates that day and have continued to do so ever since. A decade later, the new wave isn’t so new anymore. So, what does the next generation of talent look like? Better…

In the ever-exciting world of tequila, there’s one category that, while still small, is showing innovation: rosa. Named after their pinkish hue, rosa tequilas don’t have a formal definition, but are widely regarded to be a blanco (white) or joven (gold) tequila lightly aged in red wine barrels. ‘Rosa tequilas are becoming an exciting category as they’re a unique blend of tradition and innovation,’ explains Richard Betts, creator of Tequila Komos. ‘They’re meant for those who are seeking character and unique flavours in their tequila.’ Delicate & distinctive This style – which has been adopted by Komos and other brands, such as El Tequileño, Código and Tico – eschews the common practice of ageing tequila in American oak. Distillers also avoid overwhelming the agave character by only ageing for a…

Located in northern Italy’s Veneto region, Verona is a city of romance, history, opera and – most importantly here – wine. Whether you’re there for love or legend, after visiting Juliet’s balcony and the Scaliger Tombs, it’s time to dive into the city’s thriving wine scene. From legendary institutions to modern natural wine bars, the following have all been recommended by Verona’s wine professionals. Antica Bottega del Vino Near Piazza delle Erbe – once the city’s Roman forum – down a narrow alley, the centuries-old Bottega del Vino is a temple for wine lovers. You could be sipping wine at the marble-topped bar next to local winemakers or sitting down to savour a meal (try the gallina in agrodolce, a sweet-and-sour chicken salad) with something from the 18,000-bottle cellar. Wine…

Wow this Sauvignon Blanc smells really tannic. Er, do you have any idea what tannins actually are? Course I do! They’re a key part of wine appreciation. ‘Firm tannins… silky tannins...’ all that malarkey. I put them in every tasting note I write. Even for white wines? Especially for white wines. OK, we need to have a talk. Let’s start with the basics. Can you tell me where tannins come from? Er… When two grape vines love each other very much…? Right. Biology 101. Tannin is an organic compound found in fruit, from apples to peaches. So not just grapes then? No. And not just fruit either. It’s in stems and leaves, too. Think about what happens if you leave a tea bag in a mug for 10 minutes. That…

It’s no secret that bees are good guys. But that doesn’t stop me being that person – jumping up from the picnic table, arms flapping – every time there’s a faint buzz nearby. Irrational fears aside, bees are an important part of any ecosystem, including vineyards. I spoke to beekeepers and vineyard owners to find out why. ‘There isn’t a direct link between the vine and the bee,’ says Victorine Fraisse of Domaine de Villeneuve in Pic St-Loup, north of Montpellier in Languedoc. Her father has been a beekeeper since 1989 and the estate has about 1,000 bee hives. In fact, Vitis vinifera vines are self-pollinating, their flowers bearing both male and female reproductive parts. The importance of bees, then, lies in their contribution to the biodiversity of the vineyard…

The name is fashionable enough – the village is a popular tourist destination on the shores of Lake Garda in Italy’s central north – but the wines of Bardolino continue to live in nearby Valpolicella’s shadow. These pale, unassuming reds are easy to overlook and offer a very different proposition from their neighbour, where wines based on the same grape varieties often derive from the appassimento process (in which grapes are dried prior to fermentation). As such, Bardolino Rosso remains true to type and gives tasters an authentic expression of the lively red fruit characters and telltale twist of black pepper that define the Corvina grape. As Victoria Daskal observed: ‘Bardolino flies under the radar, but it shouldn’t; bursting with sour cherry, pomegranate and floral notes, with its soft tannins…

Laurent Miquel, Lagrasse Albariño, Aude, Languedoc, France 2024 £12.75 Sainsbury’s An incredibly zesty Albariño from Languedoc mover and shaker Laurent Miquel. Gently floral aromatics lead to a citrussy palate with driving acidity and lovely lemon-laced length. NE Alcohol 12% Leftfield, Albariño, Gisborne, New Zealand 2023 £13.50-£14.75 Hic, Noble Grape, Tesco, Winestore Eccleston This aptly named wine is certainly compelling. Its character is big and bold, rich, ripe, tropical and a little buttery. Yet in the mouth it’s so racy; there’s so much zest and zip, with a seriously mouthpuckering finish. NE Alc 12.5% Waitrose, Loved & Found Treixadura, Ribeiro, Galicia, Spain 2023 £9 Waitrose Vibrant and focused, this wine from Viña Costeira hails from a single plot on the banks of the Avia river, in the heart of the Ribeiro…

Nestled in the dramatic landscapes of northeastern Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol is a region where winemaking is as deeply rooted as the towering Dolomites themselves. This region is known for its pristine mountain air, varied terroirs, a blend of Italian and Germanic influences, and elegance and precision in its wines. It’s uniquely split into two distinct identities: Trentino, with its Italian heritage and renown for sparkling Trento DOC; and Alto Adige/Südtirol, where Germanic traditions shine through in vibrant whites and expressive reds. While its reputation has often been linked to fresh, mineral-driven whites and structured reds, the region is stepping into the limelight with a stunning selection of wines that showcase its boundless potential. The DWWA 2024 competition results last year highlighted this region’s consistent excellence, with an impressive Best in…

WINERY PET OF THE MONTH NAME Lucky BREED West Highland Terrier AGE Nine OWNER Didier Depond, president of Champagne houses Salon and Delamotte LIKES Running on the beach and feeling the wind in his fur, playing with tennis balls, sleeping curled up beside Didier DISLIKES Cats, noisy skateboards HOBBIES Watching nature programs on TV, listening to classical music FAVOURITE FOOD Roast chicken, cheese, apples CHEEKY HABITS Bringing his blanket and basket along with him wherever he goes and watching Didier intently when he’s driving PARTY TRICK Dancing on his hind legs (especially if there’s a treat involved) Celeb watch JOSE MOURINHO Who & what? Football manager José Mourinho is the latest celebrity to enter the wine game. His punchily priced red, The Special One – the moniker he gained in…

New grapes, same classic Bordeaux taste Bordeaux wines can retain their classic taste with certain novel grape varieties in the blend, a study has suggested, amid ongoing research into how winemakers can adapt to climate change. Journalists and critics will descend on Bordeaux this month for the 2024-vintage en primeur tastings of predominantly Cabernet- and Merlot-based blends, but will future experts also need to know their Arinarnoa from their Duras? Two juries of professional tasters recently sampled 10 Bordeaux red wines, each containing one of five atypical grape varieties at either 10% or 30% of the blend. The results broadly suggested that there was no significant impact on the wines’ regional ‘typicity’, although an 11th wine – a classical reference blend – was found to be ‘the most typical’, said…

Summer, in the hills of the Langhe. A winemaker points out to a group of visitors his renowned north-facing Barolo crus. The vineyards appear healthy and don’t need irrigation, unlike on the southern slopes, where water assistance for the vines has been the norm for years. An electric driverless van passes by on the road, shuttling between wineries and a digitally managed hub, reducing logistics costs and environmental impact. It’s the summer of 2055, the Earth is boiling and viticulture has had to adapt. Just think, all of this had been predicted long before… In 2024, all hell broke loose in the celebrated Piedmont wine region. The then president of the local Barolo consorzio, Matteo Ascheri, tackled the issue of climate change head-on with a series of radical proposals, including…

Launched in 1997 with the simultaneous release of the 1993 and 1994 vintages, the SuperTuscan Luce was born as a collaboration between two formidable wine families: Robert Mondavi brought California’s modern sheen to Frescobaldi’s rustic Tuscan charms. Over the years, Luce has garnered high praise for its opulence and power. To chart its history, I sit down with 30th generation and company president Lamberto Frescobaldi for an exclusive interview and a vertical tasting of all 30 vintages. Before I dive in, I ask Lamberto about Luce’s birth. ‘It was really thanks to [Robert] Mondavi,’ he replies. Speaking of him fondly, Lamberto gives context to Mondavi’s mindset when he connected with Lamberto’s father Vittorio in the early 1990s – a full two decades after resolving to make a wine in Italy.…

One plus one equals two. For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. Henry the VIII had six wives. For most assessable subjects, there’s a clear and definitive answer. Take an exam and you’ll receive a numerical score on a scale that equates to anything from a fail through to the highest of honours. So, surely there’s a method for assigning a score to a wine. After all, scores can range from essentially undrinkable (a fail), through to maximum points – impossible to improve. Well, there are methods, but a quick glance at the varied scores awarded to the same wine by different critics or wine competitions shows that personal impressions and the resulting outcomes vary considerably. So who is right and who is wrong, why do we…

What comes to mind when you think of Mexican food? I’m pretty sure it’s not the jericalla (a custard-based dessert from Guadalajara with woodruff, apple, mead and wood ants) I had at the Michelinstarred Kol in London (with an 1867 Madeira; yes, the pairings are startling there, too). Nor perhaps the burritos and enchiladas you might find at a branch of Taco Bell, which is more Tex-Mex, as opposed to the kind of modern Mexican food you find in Mexico City, Oaxaca and London these days. Mexican food has come on in leaps and bounds in the last 10-15 years, but it’s not so widespread outside the country that the habit of drinking wine has grown up around it. Even though Mexico has its own wine industry, it’s far more…

Most of us are creatures of habit, lovers of routine who crave the familiar – which is why reading books by and about those bold enough to fly in the face of fear is so intoxicating. Steve Hoffman’s A Season for That: Lost and Found in the Other Southern France (£25 Crown, July 2024) is one such book – following the American and his family as they try to settle into life in Faugères. Their Occitan adventure is only tangentially about wine, but it’s packed with the scents and flavours of the rural Languedoc. Your mouth will water at the thought of fresh oysters, wild rabbit and perfectly ripe apricots. You’ll smell the garrigue and feel the heat of the sun beating down on the dusty earth. At points, this…

My first memorable wine experience I was in Germany, blind tasting some of Burgundy’s finest wines. The panel included renowned sommeliers and Italian wine journalists. It was a truly memorable learning experience, especially as I was the youngest sommelier and still quite a novice. It’s an adventure I’ll always carry with me. My go-to everyday wines I choose wines based on the day, the season and the moment. I can’t imagine drinking the same wines all the time – every situation has its perfect wine. However, I always look for wines with a few key characteristics: clean aromas, drinkability, character and pleasantness. These elements are essential to ensure the bottle is enjoyed to the last drop. My favourite supermarket buy I don’t buy wine at the supermarket – only Peroni…

Fashionable Vermentino has been making a name for itself in recent years. Native to Italy, the grape is synonymous with Sardinia, which boasts two-thirds of the country’s plantings, but this century has seen the island’s dominance challenged by the Tuscan coast’s ambitious and skilled winemakers. This exciting panel tasting set out to discover whether it’s the Sardinians or the Tuscans who are currently making Italy’s most impressive Vermentino – and the results were fascinating. The key areas in Sardinia are Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, which covers the entire island, and Vermentino di Gallura DOCG in the northeast. In Tuscany, Vermentino is a specialty of the Bolgheri DOC and has also become popular in the coastal Maremma Toscana DOC. So who won? The results were definitive: seven of the top 11…

Guy de Forez, Millésime Brut, Champagne, France 2018 £36.50-£48.99 Fingal-Rock, Harrogate Wines This blanc de noirs grower Champagne from the Côte des Bar is made without malolactic fermentation to maximise freshness. Crisp acidity and spiced, tangy red apple fruit. A hint of strawberries and cream, but this isn’t an autolytic style. AW Alc 12% Bercher, Burkheimer Feuerberg Haslen Weissburgunder GG, Baden, Germany 2023 £38.55 The WineBarn A honeyed nose of peach, pear and white blossom. Oak-fermented and aged on gross lees, it offers a palate of sweet osmanthus flower, white fruit and melon, balanced by fresh green fruit acidity, leading to a long, elegant finish. SW Alc 12.5% Clos Cibonne, Cuvée Tradition Rosé, Côtes de Provence, France 2022 £32-£38 Focus Wines, Highbury Vintners, Secret Bottle Shop, Victor Indigo November Concentrated,…

Demand for luxury goods down A challenging period for the fine wine market has partially reflected a slowdown in luxury asset purchases in general, according to the 2025 Wealth Report from global consultancy group Knight Frank. The Knight Frank Luxury Investment Index, which tracks 10 major collectibles from wine to cars, watches and art, dropped 3.3% in value in 2024. Fine wine was one of the worst performers, falling 9.1% over 12 months, although the art sub-index dropped 18.3%. Handbags performed best, up 2.8%. The wine sub-index, compiled by Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade, was still up 37.4% over 10 years. Knight Frank’s new report indicates subdued recent demand for luxury collectibles in general. ‘Right now, with equities’ impressive performance, relatively attractive cash yields, and strong traditional safe…