Innehållsförteckning för February 2016 från delicious

LIGHT AND BRIGHT is the best way I can sum up this fine February issue – and it’s exactly the way most of us feel like eating right now. It’s our last opportunity to stock up on colourful summer produce, plus lighter food options are de rigueur after having our fill from the festive months. The delicious . team and our great chefs and contributors have risen to the challenge to deliver the new ‘healthy’ – substantial flavours, produce-packed dishes and fresh ideas – travelling far and wide for inspiration. Inside this month’s issue, you’ll find Valli Little’s cold noodle dishes with a nod to Chinese New Year (p 66), Matt Moran’s seafood recipes to see out summer (p 74), and Jamie Oliver’s delicious lentil dishes (2016 is the year…

MUD CRAB Most common in mangroves in Queensland and the Northern Territory in Australia, mud crabs range in size, averaging around 1kg and growing up to a whopping 3kg. The delicate, sweet meat is a bit of work to extract, but worth the effort. Try to buy live crab, then place in the freezer for around an hour before splitting down the middle or boiling. Mud crab goes very well with French flavours such as soft herbs and butter, but using it in Asian-style dishes is a no-brainer. Amy and Palisa use the large, firmer chunks (from legs and claws) in fried rice and crab cakes at Chat Thai, and stir the loose meat (from the body) through congee at Boon and omelettes at Assamm in Sydney’s QVB. TURMERIC A…

DRINK BETTER We eat well, we buy organic produce and we take the dog for a walk, but let’s face it, once we’ve ditched the active wear, we’re never that far from a cool, refreshing glass that can make the day a little rosier. Our proximity to alcohol and lusty enjoyment of it is OK if we set some quasi-rules for ‘healthier drinking’. No, it doesn’t mean pouring a shot of vodka into a kale and spirulina smoothie. Nor does it mean abstaining in a boom-bust cycle of AFDs (alcohol-free days) and punishing sober months that are generally rewarded with liquor flowing like the Amazon. Instead, get yourself into a frame of mind to ‘drink less, but drink better’. Beer – There’s a reason why someone has named wayward anatomy…

From avo on toast to burgers with the lot, there are so many lip-smacking reasons why Australia is God’s country, says Matt Preston , who lists them this Australia Day. ENOUGH IS ENOUGH . Australia is more than just the rock, the reef and the lamb. How limiting are those reasons for loving Australia? Here are mine. For breakfast: Australian cafes lead the world in creativity. Gone are ‘egg four ways’ to be replaced with seeds and grains, broths and puddings, pickles and hummus, and the joy of smashed avo on toast. Even better, our leisurely brekkie turns into a brunch a Californian movie mogul would love to do a deal over. For coffee: ‘Mud’ and ‘dishwater’ are no longer words that can be addressed to our baristas as they…

BLOOD ORANGE & LIME MOJITO SERVES 4 1/2 cup (125ml) white rum 3 cups (750ml) sparkling blood orange juice, chilled 1/2 cup mint sprigs, plus extra to garnish 1 lime, thinly sliced, plus extra to garnish 4 scoops Weis Sorbet Exotics Blood Orange and Tahitian Lime Place the rum and sparkling blood orange juice in a jug and stir to combine. Divide the mint and lime among four 2 cup (500ml) glasses and muddle gently to combine. Place a scoop of sorbet in each glass and pour over the blood orange and rum mixture. Garnish with extra mint and lime, to serve. REAL GOOD, FEEL-GOOD SUMMER INSPIRATIONS Move over ice cream! Deliciously rich and smooth, Weis Creamy Frozen Yoghurts are made with natural, gourmet ingredients, and the enticing range of…

WITH LUNAR NEW YEAR just around the corner, now is the perfect time to pop into your local Asian supermarket or Chinatown and experiment with the wealth of exciting ingredients on offer. If there is one thing I love in summer, it’s cold noodles. And with the number of different styles available, the possibilities are endless. Think Chinese dried wheat noodles, such as yang chun or kuan dou , fresh thick wheat ones, such as Shanghai noodles, as well as fresh egg noodles. Or Vietnamese rolled rice noodles known as banh cuon . Cold noodle dishes can act as an accompaniment to a main, such as my duck and lychee noodles, which is also super quick to make by picking up a barbecued bird from your local Chinese takeaway. Or…

Anthony Puharich might be used to letting Colin Fassnidge do the cooking in their monthly column, The Chef and the Butcher (p 40), but he loves getting his hands dirty just as much as his Irish mate. And no one does a better barbie: “I have nine different barbecues,” he says. “It’s a bit weird, but hey, we’ve all got our vices!” Not such a surprise for the man behind the country's most successful butcher, Vic's Meat. Guests know when it’s a party at the Puharich’s there’ll always be protein on the grill, “I think about techniques and cuts; grilling, smoking, prime and secondary cuts,” says Anthony. “I don’t think anybody’s got a bigger fridge of meat in Australia with the variety that I do.” Simple is the word when…

BLUEBERRY & JERSEY MILK ICE CREAM CAKE SERVES 8 I love the thick, rich layer of cream that you get in a bottle of organic, unhomogenised jersey milk, and the knowledge that you are drinking something in its natural state. 1L (4 cups) unhomogenised jersey milk (from health food stores) or 2 cups (500ml) each full-cream milk and pure (thin) cream 8 egg yolks 160g coconut sugar 11/2 cups (225g) frozen blueberries Fresh blueberries and maple syrup, to serve Place 3 cups (750ml) milk in a saucepan over medium heat. Whisk egg yolks and sugar in a large heatproof bowl until thick and pale. As soon as milk starts to bubble around the edges, pour it into the yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Transfer to a clean saucepan and place over…

AS MANY OF YOU KNOW , I first quit sugar back in January 2011, and along the way, several bigger, deeper themes emerged. I realised food wastage mattered. More than anything else, actually. My new book, Simplicious, elevates leftovers to the main attraction, saving money, time, nutrients, scraps, energy, pans, washing up and all those random ingredients that usually sit at the back of the pantry after a single use. The recipes in this book are orchestrated to work to a magnificent, elegant flow where we take an ingredient and use every last bit of it. I use my fingers to test the readiness of food, skip pointless steps, toss salads with my hands and feature fridge dregs in my ingredients lists. I improvise, fend, get loose, get responsible… and…

#DELICIOUSSUMMER WIN THE ULTIMATE SUMMER LONG WEEKEND! DON’T WANT TO WAVE GOODBYE TO SUMMER JUST YET? WE HEAR YOU! SHARE YOUR ULTIMATE SUMMER SNAPS WITH US ON INSTAGRAM AND TWITTER USING THE HASHTAG #DELICIOUSSUMMER AND YOU WILL GO INTO THE DRAW TO WIN ONE OF THREE VIP DOUBLE PASSES TO OUR END OF SUMMER DINNER AT ICEBERGS, BONDI BEACH (SEE P 15), INCLUDING RETURN AIRFARES FROM YOUR NEAREST AUSTRALIAN CAPITAL CITY AND TWO NIGHT’S ACCOMMODATION AT FOUR SEASONS SYDNEY. VISIT: DELICIOUS.COM.AU/SUMMER BALANCING ACT “Let food be thy medicine” said a (very) wise man, and we couldn’t agree more Hippocrates. Ditch the fad diets and expensive superfoods and read user-friendly blogs from our health experts on eating and living well, including Sarah Wilson’s (above) guide to gut health, updates from health…

PICK OF THE CROP WE KICK OFF the 2016 Produce Awards with some fresh faces on the judging panel and an exciting new line-up of awards. The delicious. Produce Awards unearths and recognises Australia’s best produce, including those who grow, catch, supply and cook with it. After celebrating 10 years in 2015, we’re bringing the awards full-circle to where they started, turning the focus firmly back on sustainable restaurant-quality Australian produce. So what’s new? This year we will be asking our judges, along with the country’s top chefs and restaurateurs, to nominate the passionate producers they work so closely with to source the ingredients for their menus. Meanwhile, our panel of industry experts will be busy unearthing the craft drinks, chefs, regions, food trails and experiences, stores and designers that…

Over 25 years, and across seven restaurants (including five Chat Thais, Boon and Assamm) Amy Chanta has built a reputation by using the best produce to create authentic Thai flavours. Now, Amy’s daughter, Palisa Anderson, with her pet project Boon in Sydney’s Thai Town, is making sure the family business continues to break ground for the next generation. Boon is the physical manifestation of the mother-daughter relationship, combining an old-school Thai approach to produce and generosity with new-school ideas. So you might have avocado toast with Thai herbs and pork crackling for breakfast; lunch could be fusilli with pork sausage and egg yolk, or chicken and cashew nut sandwiched between sourdough with Thai herbs and pickles; and dinner, traditional Isaan dishes. It’s a style of food that takes Palisa’s experience…

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“COME ON GUYS, F*CKING HELL,” pleads Gordon Ramsay with his trademark furrowed brow. Before I boarded the plane from Sydney to Dubai to meet him at his newest restaurant, Bread Street Kitchen & Bar at Atlantis, The Palm, Dubai, I’d joked about taking two slices of bread to re-enact his infamous ‘idiot sandwich’ moment (Google it). “What are you?,” I’d scream at him, holding white slices over his ears. ‘Raging Ramsay knocks out the Incredible Huck’ would make for one hell of a headline. Anyway, that “Come on guys...” was exactly the sort of sentence I was expecting, just not in the context it was used. It came at the end of our interview, when he asked if I was coming in for dinner. “No, just for the cocktail party…

NOT EVERYONE IS fortunate enough to have access to their own garden or plot on which to grow food, but there are options for all of us, from a large vegie patch to a small tub of tomatoes or herbs on a balcony. One of the most space-efficient options is sprouting. Sprouts are super easy and quick to grow, and buying sprouts from shops can be so much more expensive than growing them yourself. Sprouts are incredibly nutritious. In fact, they’re one of nature’s true living superfoods – rich in enzymes, high in amino acids (protein), bursting with minerals, and packed with chlorophyll. Sprouts are also cleansing, alkalising, filled with antioxidants and therapeutic. They facilitate digestion and detoxification, too. Need more reasons to start sprouting? Well, here’s one more. They…

WILTED RAINBOW CHARD TART WITH ROASTED GARLIC SERVES 6 1 garlic bulb, cloves unpeeled 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 12 eggs 1/3 cup (35g) grated hard mozzarella 10 rainbow chard leaves, blanched, refreshed 1 buffalo mozzarella ball, torn 2 tbs runny honey 3 thyme sprigs, leaves picked Thinly sliced mixed heirloom radishes and baby chard, to serve SPELT PASTRY 22/3 cups (400g) white spelt flour 200g cold unsalted butter, chopped 1/4 cup (60ml) apple cider vinegar For the pastry, place flour and 1 tsp salt flakes in a bowl. Add butter and toss to coat. Using a flat-bladed knife or pastry cutter, roughly cut in butter, leaving plenty of big pieces of butter. Combine vinegar and1/2 cup (125ml) iced water in a jug. In 3 batches, add to…

NOTHING SAYS AUSSIE summer like a seafood feast, and for me it’s all about relaxing around a barbecue and eating light and fresh. We are so incredibly lucky here in Australia with the quality and variety of our seafood. While everyone sings the praises of barramundi, snapper, oysters and prawns (and rightfully so), I also like to turn to some overlooked gems, such as fresh whole sardines. I love their robust, meaty flavour – they’re made for the smoky flavour of the barbecue and they cook quickly. I’m also a fan of ocean perch and its sweet, delicate flavour. I prefer to barbecue the fish whole because you get more intensity and the juiciness is retained. Clams too, frequent my table in summer for their large size and strong flavour,…

MENU I decide the main things, whether I’m going to roast or grill, whether I’m going to do beef or lamb. And if I spot something at the local fruit and veg shop I’ll grab a bunch. I don't cook on gas anymore, so it’s all wood and charcoal. TABLE I’m hardcore about my steak knives; we always whip out the Laguiole knives, and you can’t go past Riedel wine glasses. Rebecca will dress up the backyard with flowers and pillows and make it all cool, calm and casual. PLAYLIST Modern day pop for me. As long as it’s got an upbeat feel like Maroon 5 or Justin Timberlake. My wife loves more 80s classics; Billy Joel is a favourite. DRINKS Good chardonnay, robust local shiraz with meat, and French…

BAKED SNAPPER WITH CHICKPEA SALT AND FREEKEH SALAD SERVES 4 400g can chickpeas, rinsed, drained1 tsp each ground cumin, corianderseeds and dried chilli flakes11/4 cups (200g) freekeh2 x 450g whole snapper, cleaned, scaled6 garlic cloves, bruised1 bunch coriander, leaves picked,roots reserved4 kaffir lime leaves, torn, plus extrashredded to serve1/3 cup (80ml) olive oil4 spring onions, cut into 5cm lengthsJuice of 1 lime2 tbs apple cider vinegar1 telegraph cucumber, thinly sliced2 mangoes, sliced1/3 bunch mint, leaves picked Preheat oven to 150°C. To make the chickpea salt, line a baking tray with baking paper, then spread over chickpeas. Roast for 1 hour or until dry. Cool slightly, then whiz in a food processor with cumin, coriander seeds, chilli and 11/2 tsp salt flakes until roughly ground. Meanwhile, bring a large saucepan of…

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SRI LANKA’S VARIOUS CITIES AND PROVINCES are a jigsaw of verdant tea plantations, lazy coastlines and a bustling capital city, Colombo. But wherever you wander, street eats are abundant. There’s plenty of variety in Colombo’s Pettah neighbourhood, where tuk tuks jostle with people for space and ornate places of worship are walking distance from the open-air market. Snacks, known as ‘short eats’, are wheeled by on carts, alongside chilli-laden mango and jackfruit achcharu (pickle). Despite the heady smells, it’s the clanging of metal on metal that leads me to Sri Lanka’s national dish, kottu roti. Kottu translates to ‘chopped’ and the dish involves shredded vegetables, roti and sometimes protein being diced with two blades resembling pizza dough cutters on a hot griddle. It’s Sri Lanka’s answer to pad Thai; a…

good eggs Take a leaf out of editor-in-chief Kerrie McCallum’s book and tuck into 2015 delicious . Produce Award-winning Yarra Valley Caviar for more than just special occasions – try on homemade blinis with a glass of Champagne. Visit: yarravalleycaviar.com.au. cream of the crop Produced in the small town of Laura, SA for 90 years, Golden North Premium Ice Cream is made using only the best locally-sourced ingredients, and their new gluten-free Good’n Creamy range is no exception. Visit: goldennorth.com.au. keep a lid on it Cooked up a storm with the February issue? Fear not, the new Decor Thermostone container-cum-baking dish range with realseal lids allows you to cook, store, freeze and reheat leftovers all in the one dish. Visit: decor.com.au. magnetic force From preparing a super smooth gazpacho to…

VEGETARIAN GREEN & CLEAN Cold-pressed Boon juice, p 22 Leftover greens, seeds & cheese tart, p 54 Pistachio ice cream & cacao slice, p 84 “Meat eaters and vegetarians alike will fall in love with this beautiful no-waste tart. The juice keeps things virtuous, so you don’t need to feel guilty about indulging in the pistachio & cacao slice.” Sharnee Rawson, news editor SPICE IT UP FRESH ASIAN Mixed mushroom noodles with tea-marbled eggs, p 68 Yealands Estate Single Vineyard P.G.R. 2015 Red curry with pork belly and water spinach, p 22 Yealands Estate Single Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014 Mango & turmeric coconut yoghurt soft serve, p 100 Yealands Estate Single Vineyard Noble Sauvignon Blanc 2014 “These wines are packed with fresh fruit flavours and mouth-puckering acidity that match perfectly…

COLD-PRESSED BOON JUICE SERVES 2 2 x 5cm pieces turmeric 1/2 pineapple, peeled, chopped 3 Granny Smith or pink lady apples 3 pears 2 limes, skin removed 2 bunches pennywort (from Asian grocers) or 1 large bunch English spinach 1 bunch each mint, flat-leaf parsley, cavolo nero and dandelion leaves (from grocers – or extra parsley) 2 passionfruit, pulp strained Juice the turmeric. Reserve and set aside. Juice all remaining ingredients. Divide juice between two serving glasses, then pour half the turmeric juice over each to serve. FRIED CRAB & PRAWN CAKE WITH RICE NOODLE SALAD SERVES 4-6 1kg large green prawns, peeled, deveined, chopped (to give 500g prawn meat) 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 large bunch coriander roots, chopped 2 tsp sesame oil 1 egg 1 tbs light soy…

Coming this SUMMER With such grand expansion plans, we might expect a Justin Hemmes-run Sydney dining scene in years to come, but with the swathe of success and world-class talent continuing to come out of the Merivale group, it might not be such a bad thing. We’ve already seen whisky bar J&M (pictured) launch in the historic Angel Hotel in the CBD and ex-Momofuku Seiobo exec chef Ben Greeno start pumping out super juicy rotisserie chicken, meats and vegies at THE PADDINGTON (and doing his version of a takeaway chicken shop next door). Now, the end of summer has us set for the combined talents of Chris Hogarth and Patrick Friesen of Manly’s Papi Chulo teaming up with dumpling legend Eric Koh to offer Cantonese food at the QUEEN VICTORIA…

RESTRAINT IS THE SIGN of a truly mature chef. The ability to hold back when the urge to go to another level is clawing at you. It’s far braver than suspending disbelief with some kind of molecular reconstruction. Not that boundaries should go unexplored, but when one is challenging convention just to rattle a few bones, or because they can, the result is rarely the intended jaw-dropping experience. This sums up much of my experience at Melbourne’s Lume. Strapping in for their 16-course degustation extravaganza everything feels so right. A beautiful fit-out that is equally opulent and earthy, the stellar wine list by Sally Humble, sharp waitstaff who genuinely care, and food by two chefs, Shaun Quade and John Paul Fiechtner, both clearly very talented. But Lume is lost in…

“NOTHING SAYS nostalgia or comfort like a big bowl of porridge. Hot and creamy oats with a dash of cold milk and a good sprinkling of brown sugar is how I’ve always loved mine. Recently, however, I’ve experimented with lighter, healthier takes that are perfect for summer. These days, we have access to so many different grains and seeds, such as freekeh, millet and chia, and their popularity has really taken off due to their health benefits and versatility in the kitchen. Quinoa is a grain I use a lot, from an alternative to rice in risottos or stuffing for roast chook, to a toasted, crispy, crunchy addition to salads. Now, it’s my go-to for breakfast in a chilled porridge with chia seeds and banana. Its nutty flavour and unique…

I CRAVE SIMPLE, NOURISHING and uncomplicated food, especially in summer. You could describe my style as delicious and healthy, with seasonal vegetable-based dishes and a little meat and fish. And when it comes to entertaining, I like to offer an array of dishes that can be passed around and shared. Take my ‘not quite pickled cucumbers’, small Lebanese qukes left for an hour to marinate before being doused with zaatar and served as a crudite with green goddess dressing. I also sprout chickpeas, then use them in a wonderful hummus paired with the sweet fragrance of peach and basil. Or tabbouleh with buckwheat, pomegranate, almonds and roasted carrots. It’s a vegan dish, but I guarantee you won’t miss the protein. It’s also great for entertaining as the components can be…

I REALLY THINK I SHOULD START THIS COLUMN by saying that the words ’romantic’ and ’Yorkshireman’ generally don’t go together. A romantic meal for a Yorkshireman would be taking his lady friend down to the pub for a pint of warm bitter and a plate of toad in the hole while watching the football. It sounds like heaven. Anyhow, since this good looking tiger has just come back from the land of Casanova, I thought I would share some of the meals I shared with my beautiful partner, my two little hooligans, oh and my mum, who was there, too. It’s already sounding romantic isn’t it? Forgive me for my sarcasm, I am actually quite the romantic, and while in Italy I was inspired through my travels of the north…

The new Eastland has set a benchmark for dining in Eastern Melbourne with culinary masters setting up shop in the food hub that is Town Square. Eastland has been designed for the evolving urban community around Ringwood, combining the finest in contemporary gastronomy, fashion, style and design. THE WHO’S WHO OF FOOD Celebrity chef George Calombaris has introduced a new dining concept as an extension to his line of modern Athenian souvlaki bars, called Jimmy Grants. Business partners, Frank Camorra and Andy McMahon, the masterminds behind MoVida, are invigorating Town Square with their vibrant Pacos Tacos. Other renowned eateries include Huxtaburger, Hunky Dory and the new-to-market concept AngAng by Chinta Ria Soul. CHEERS TO TOWN SQUARE Head to the rooftop garden to The Cellar Door. The establishment is a celebration…

LENTIL KEFTEDES WITH DILL YOGHURT SERVES 4-6 In Greece and Cyprus, you find meatballs (keftedes) in every taverna. This is my meat-free version made with lentils. 290ml extra virgin olive oil 4 firmly packed cups (200g) baby spinach leaves 400g can brown lentils, rinsed, drained 2 eggs 1/2 cup dill leaves, chopped 1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped 100g feta, crumbled 1 cup (70g) fresh breadcrumbs Green leaf salad, to serve DILL YOGHURT 1/2 cup dill leaves, finely chopped 1 cup (280g) thick Greek-style yoghurt 1 small garlic clove, finely grated Juice of1/2 lemon 1 tbs olive oil For the dill yoghurt, place all ingredients in a bowl. Season, then stir to combine. Set aside. Heat 2 tbs oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add spinach and cover with…

Aspen, it’s the ski resort you can visit without even dipping your toes in the snow. The native home of the Ute Indians has been as much about the off-piste action since it evolved from a silver mining town in the 1880s to a mountain metropolis that now boasts some of the priciest real estate in the US, more Master Sommeliers per capita than anywhere else in the world and a star-studded line-up of visitors from John Wayne to David Chang and Thomas Keller. Named after the native aspen trees, it’s a Mecca for A-list movie stars – Aerin Lauder, Kevin Costner, Goldie Hawn and Antonio Banderas have homes here, and musicians too, along with ageing hippies, exercise fanatics, ski bums and food lovers who make up the colourful community.…

8.30am ROLL CALL Not far from Beverly Hills’ high-end shops is The Restaurant at Mr. C (1224 Beverwil Dr, Los Angeles), a cocoon of Italian luxury, where polished service meets classic waffles, bagels and pancakes, as well as celebrity-spotting. 10:30am COAST TO COAST Industry players come to Freds at Barneys Beverly Hills (9570 Wilshire Blvd, Beverly Hills) to see and be seen. They’re also here for chef Mark Strausman’s big, produce-driven, New York-style cooking, such as the legendary Mark’s Madison Avenue salad – perfect fuel for a Barneys shopping binge downstairs. 11:30am CHAIN STAR The fast-casual revolution is booming and Lemonade (1661 Abbott Kinney Blvd, Venice), near iconic Venice beach (pictured), is among those leading the charge with 18 California locations. Locals love the toasted sandwiches such as the buttermilk-baked…

A bad rep can really tarnish your image, and for a long time Brisvegas has struggled to stand up to sister cities, Melbourne and Sydney. But times are changing thanks to a new wave of entrepreneurs including Damian Griffiths (above), and Brissy has shaken the parochial vibe and emerged as a new dining destination to be reckoned with. With comparisons to Sydney’s Merivale juggernaut driver Justin Hemmes, Damian Griffiths, former immigration lawyer turned hotelier and hospitality magnate, has brought his own urban renewal twist to Brisbane, turning run-down properties into coveted dining destinations. “I’ve always wanted to challenge Brisbane, to shake that country town mentality,” says Damian. “I love the charms and relaxed nature of this city, it’s easy going and down to earth, but I love the hustle and…

“OH MY, IT’S SO LONG AND DROOPY,” she says laughing and pointing in my direction. Sadly, she was right. My pale, doughy snake swung uncontrollably in my hands like an angry black mamba trying to set itself free. Dangling between my knees, it is nearly scraping the floor. I swing it up on the bench. “It’s harder than you think,” I say. “Yes, it takes years to master handmade noodles,” replies Yardley Kyling, owner of Sydney Chinese den Chefs Gallery. That’s right. Noodles. My attempt sits on the bench like a mini Jabba the Hutt. Chef Kin Hing Ho watches on and can’t contain his laughter. His English may only be marginally better than my Cantonese – he can say more than hello – but it seems laughing at someone…