Gathered in a vineyard near Wren, Oregon, hungry guests eyed a buffet littered with culinary oddities: Wild nettle crescent buns featuring mustard blossom butter. Fennel blackberry gelato. French-style ale brewed with the wildflower Queen Anne’s lace.
Welcome to the Institute for Applied Ecology’s annual invasive species cook-off.
Andrew Esterson, the institute’s habitat restoration program director, served up his tried-and-true chile verde, but sidelined the traditional pork for something less expected: swamp rat, a semi-aquatic rodent also known as nutria or coypu. “The meat was actually lovely, it was this dark purple-red color,” Esterson says of the novel protein. “If you add enough spices and peppers to anything, it’s probably going to taste pretty good. And it turned out to be delicious.”
Delicious enough, in fact, to win first place in…
