Following the tradition of his father and grandfather, Phool Dev Shahni once earned a living diving into 24m-deep muddy ponds.
In those murky depths, he collected seeds from a water lily known as euryale ferox, commonly called prickly water lily, makhanas, fox nuts, or lotus seeds. These seeds, valued for their high levels of B vitamins, protein and fibre, are often dubbed a ‘superfood’. Makhanas are popular snacks and are used in various dishes, like the milk pudding kheer, and can be ground into flour. In Bihar, a north-eastern Indian state where Shahni lives, 90% of the world’s makhana is produced.
Though the plant’s leaves float on the water’s surface, the seeds form underwater in pods, making collection arduous.
“As we dive, mud gets into our ears, eyes, noses and…