Innehållsförteckning för October 2023 från GQ

IN THIS ISSUE, Joshua Hunt’s piece “The Last Maestros of Sartoria Italiana” (page 48) is about the crisis among the world-famous bespoke suit makers of Naples. What Josh found in his reporting is that the great master tailors are retiring or dying, and they’re not being replaced by younger generations, leaving one of the most elevated and celebrated realms of menswear in a dire situation. ¶ Sure, younger Italians are interested in working in the booming fashion-and-luxury business, but they don’t want to pay the extraordinary dues required, often over decades of exacting labor, to learn the complex craft of creating a totally bespoke suit, from collar to cuff, entirely with one’s own two hands. Especially not for the modest pay of $30,000 a year. “It reminded me of something…

OUTSIDE OF LOVELAND, Colorado, about 90 minutes north of ODenver, sits a ranch at the foot of the Rockies known as Sylvan Dale. More than 3,000 acres of grasslands, canyons, and tree-topped foothills, plus a barn where a team of wranglers oversee a herd of 40-plus horses. When we arrived, the first assignment was to gather in a small cabin: 10 men warily sizing one another up before settling into a ring of chairs. A wealthy business-man, an architect, a long haul trucker. Mostly American, mostly straight, mostly white. At 46, I was the youngest, though I’d been told they’d had men in their 20s. The mood was perplexed and defensive—we knew why we were there, but not exactly how our lives had reached a point where we’d pay for an…

Rashid Johnson was a blue-chip artist whose work offered a radically fresh portrayal of Black cultural identity. Then he got sober, found God, and began to transform the art world from the inside. ONE WAY TO measure an artist’s success on the island of Manhattan is real estate, and by that metric, among many others, Rashid Johnson has been very successful. On a recent Thursday afternoon, he stood in the sunlit living room of the white 19th-century town house he’d purchased, in 2020, from the late Cars frontman Ric Ocasek and his supermodel wife, Paulina Porizkova, for $9 million. Directly across the street is the home of the artist couple Rachel Feinstein and John Currin; Oleg Cassini, the Russian Italian fashion designer, once lived a few doors down. Johnson’s row…

COMELY COLLAB Paul Smith has taken the ascendant New York label Commission under its wing through the &PaulSmith mentorship program, and together they’ve dropped a retro-slick menswear capsule of buttery leather jackets, intricately printed shirts, and club-ready trousers, worn here by models Nick (left) and Alex Maculam. On NICK MACULAM: Jacket, $3,150, shirt, $ 595, jeans, $675, and tie, $150, by Commission &PaulSmith. Shoes, $650, by Diesel.On ALEX MACULAM: Jacket, $3,150, shirt, $525, and jeans, $675, by Commission &PaulSmith. Boots, $375, by Paul Smith.…

AT SOME POINT, not long after Chris Evans finished the seventh of seven contractually obligated Captain America performances with 2019’s Avengers: Endgame, he left Los Angeles. The idea was, well—there were a few ideas. One was getting out of a town that Evans associates with “Pavlovian anxiety.” Another was going back home to Massachusetts, where Evans grew up and where he’s often resided since 2014. When he steps off the plane there, he says, it “takes me back to a place when life was not just simpler—that’s too reductive—but to a time where I was more pure, I guess; where my ego and my insecurities weren’t such a dominant force that I had to push against.” At his house just outside Boston, Evans says, “I really take my time.” Just…

Thomas WILL’s most recent trip to inspect a Nazi concentration camp took him to Płaszów in Poland, now a wooded rocky site with rusting train tracks and weather-beaten watchtowers still in place. Just before the 63-year-old German arrived, there happened to be a memorial service for the thousands of forced laborers who died at Płaszów, including those stalked for sport by the camp’s commandant, Amon Göth. The villa where Göth once lived still exists. So do offces, jail cells. Visitors guided through on Schindler’s List tours tend to cover the grounds in a few hours before moving on to a quarry where Spielberg filmed exteriors for his famous movie centered on the camp. Will wasn’t so interested in the Hollywood aspect. Instead he lingered at windows, wondering about sight lines.…

THE FORMULA 1 DRIVER Lewis Hamilton has always understood Tthe power of a great watch. He got into this hobby for the same reason many of us do: to find a timepiece that clicked with his interests while conferring respect, elegance, and maybe a touch of magic. That’s why when he was younger he started his collection with a Mickey Mouse watch before saving up another 15 pounds to buy something “really elegant,” Hamilton told GQ recently. “I was walking around always showing it off.” His classmates, who mostly wore electronic Casios, weren’t impressed. We all have our own version of Hamilton’s Mickey Mouse watch in a drawer somewhere, the one that got us started. Now, Hamilton is reaching the pinnacle of his watch-collecting journey with the creation of a new…

CALEB WILLIAMS—the quarterback of a resurgent University of Southern California football team, and quite suddenly the pride and joy of Los Angeles—steps off a tinted-window party bus in the Dodger Stadium parking lot. His path is cleared by a pack of thick-necked and wide-hipped young men with varyingly successful beards, his 17 offensive linemen. His presence speaks to the only-in-LA life afforded to a quarterback who makes USC great: The Dodgers have invited Williams to throw out the game’s first pitch. Later this summer, the team will hand out thousands of Caleb Williams bobbleheads—an honor granted only to an elite roster of non-baseball luminaries, including Elton John, Hello Kitty, and Billie Jean King. Williams is still a few weeks from commencing his junior season, but anticipation is building as the…