In the California wine business, the drumbeat of consolidation rolls on, and in recent years the pace has quickened significantly, with the top five companies now accounting for nearly two thirds of the state’s wine sales. It’s certainly an interesting time in California wine’s history: Spurred on by generational changes, many family-owned wineries founded in the 1960s, ’70s, and ’80s have been selling out. That, of course, has been going on for some time—think of Constellation’s acquisition of Robert Mondavi Winery nearly 20 years ago—but lately this trend has accelerated as more families look to exit the business, leaving the big players to become even bigger. This trend, coupled with all the consolidation at the distribution and the retail tier, has made it more difficult for smaller independent winemakers to…