I’m standing on a quiet country path in Hovingham, North Yorkshire, sniffing a pungent handful of wild mustard. Josh Overington, chef-proprietor of the village’s fine-dining restaurant Mýse, which also runs foraging courses, tugs me another treasure from the foliage — a tuft of citrussy fireweed.
The young chef, born in the nearby market town of Pocklington, explains that elderflower can be used to infuse a fermented kombucha drink. Pineapple weed — its taste akin to its namesake fruit — adds sweetness to a dessert. The shoots of an Alexander plant, “a forgotten vegetable” brought to Britain by the Romans, is nice stir-fried with seafood, says Josh, as he peels back its succulent layers.
Using foraged — and pickled or preserved — herbs to flavour British, and often Yorkshire, produce is…