Puglia, Italy
WHY NOW: My first trip to Puglia, which forms Italy’s bootheel, was in early November, and in packing I made two mistakes: I left out a bathing suit and bike shoes. I didn’t anticipate that the southern latitude would bring late-summer temperatures. I arrived to see umbrellas shading folks on the rocky beaches and bicycles outnumbering cars. I chose the region hoping it would deliver the food, wine, and culture of Tuscany, but with fewer crowds and better prices. So it did, and also surprised me with a bounty of outdoor playgrounds, including two national parks, 16 state reserves, three marine protected areas, many fantastic cycling routes, and an incredible network of limestone caves. In early autumn, Susumaniello grapes are plucked from the vines; toward the end, olives…
