Innehållsförteckning för No. 355 från Photography Week

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To give your portraits more dimension, consider using rim lights (kickers) or hair lights. The main aim when using rim lights is usually to create separation between a subject and a background, or to add shape, form or dimension. This can be achieved by using the sun, a reflector, an artificial strobe or a combination of the three. A hair light is as it sounds, a light dedicated to illuminating the hair so that an accurate portrait can be taken – as hair so often frames our face. As an example, you may wish to photograph a subject with dark hair against a black backdrop. By adding a hair light to the back of your subject’s head, you’ll highlight the back of the hair so that there’s separation between the…

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1 DAY There’s something magical about rays of light. They create a wonderful sense of atmosphere, whether seen on a misty morning walk as the sun breaks through gaps in the trees, or inside a dusty room pierced by shafts of light from the window. We can make use of this atmosphere to enliven our portraits with the technique outlined here. Although we think of them as ‘light rays’, it’s not really possible to photograph a ray of light – what we’re actually seeing is the light illuminating very minute particles in the air. So the key to creating the rays is to fill the air with particles, whether it be steam, mist, dust or smoke – for this tutorial we’ve made use of an inexpensive smoke machine. The other…

Crowdfunding platforms have become a popular way for startups and small companies to raise seed money for projects, but the news that Canon is using crowdfunding website Indiegogo for a new concept camera will probably surprise many. The IVY REC is somewhat different to Canon’s usual releases, however, which likely explains why Canon has opted to take a less conventional approach. While it is technically a camera, the IVY REC looks like, and is roughly the same size as, a USB flash drive, and is designed to be clipped onto a belt loop or bag strap. Described as “the ultimate go-anywhere camera”, the IVY REC packs a 13MP 1/3-inch CMOS sensor, and can shoot both still images and Full HD videos to 60fps. Its casing is waterproof down to a…

Most of Photoshop’s sharpening commands offer just a few simple controls – usually a strength or amount setting and a radius. By contrast, Photoshop’s Smart Sharpen command gives you a host of different options, and it’s ideal for anyone who wants to apply controlled, methodical sharpening to their photos. In this video tutorial we’ll explore the key settings and controls you need to understand in order to get the most out of this advanced sharpening tool. Smart Sharpen is one of the two most effective sharpening commands in Photoshop; the other is Unsharp Mask, but of the two, Smart Sharpen offers a greater range of features. As well as these two sharpening filters, there’s also the excellent Detail panel in Camera Raw – however, the Detail panel should be thought…

For sheer clout and performance, the Sigma 150-600mm Sports wins out. It’s superbly well-engineered, offers a wealth of features and customisable controls, delivers excellent image quality, and is also excellent value; however, there’s no denying that it’s a big, heavy lens. The Sigma 150-600mm Contemporary and Tamron 150-600mm G2 lenses are rather more manageable. The Sigma edges ahead for features and image quality, while the Tamron is more extensively weather-sealed. The Nikkor 200-500mm is also a great buy for Nikon shooters who prefer to stick with own-brand lenses. The Canon EF 100-400mm is smaller and lighter than any of the 150-600mm lenses, and while it doesn’t give such long telephoto reach, it has a slightly faster aperture rating and superb build quality. Even so, the Sigma and Tamron 100-400mm are…

To ensure that you don’t undo all of your hard work when trying to balance multiple light sources, it’s important not to process your images too heavily. The last thing you want to do is drag the highlights or shadows up to the maximum when they were exposed on low power to create a subtle effect. Providing you shoot raw files, Camera Raw will enable you to make adjustments, but I use this sparingly. I believe it’s worth getting as much right as possible in camera, and that raw editors are there to perfect your images, not to save them. My feelings about editing are the same as about adding another light source. Does it need it? Does it enhance the image? I like to edit skin to remove non-permanent…

The Great American Eclipse of August 2017 produced a host of stunning images, videos and timelapses, and now, almost two years after the event, award-winning Australian astrophotographer and author Phil Hart has released his own short film, The Moon in Motion – and we think you’ll agree it was worth the wait. Despite only being two minutes long, the film features footage from no less than seven of 12 cameras that Hart set up across the states of Idaho and Wyoming to capture the eclipse from different vantage points. Why the delay in bringing the video out? As Hart explains at his website: “It has taken me all of the nearly two years since this international expedition to develop and apply the specialised eclipse image processing and video editing techniques…

Following on from our group test of 70-200mm telephoto zoom lenses in issue 351 of Photography Week, this issue we’re going extra-large. If money is no object, a 400mm, 500mm or 600mm prime lens with a relatively fast aperture rating is likely to deliver unbeatable performance and image quality; however, they tend to be very heavy and unwieldy, as well as being fiendishly expensive, usually with price tags of well over £10,000/$10,000. The zoom lenses we’ve chosen for this group test are much more affordable, while adding zoom versatility. All can reach to at least 400mm. We’ve included the latest Sigma and Tamron offerings, some of which really push the envelope for this class of lens. The flip side is that we’ve not been able to include some own-brand lenses…