Innehållsförteckning för No. 488 från Photography Week

Welcome to the world’s No.1 weekly digital photography magazine. If you’re already a reader, thanks for your continued support and involvement; if you’re new to Photography Week, you’ve come to the right place! In addition to expert advice, brilliant tips and step-by-step tutorials, every issue features interactive galleries of the best new photos, how-to videos on essential shooting and editing techniques, and in-depth reviews of the latest camera kit. But that’s not the whole story. Photography Week is more than a magazine – it’s a community of like-minded people who are passionate about photography. To get involved, just follow any of the links below and share your shots and comments – your photo might even appear on our cover! JOIN THE PHOTOGRAPHY WEEK COMMUNITY AND START SHARING! FACEBOOKhttp://bit.ly/39py9lg TWITTERhttp://bit.ly/2vGadLP FLICKRhttp://bit.ly/2VIgsJO…

MANUAL MODE To start with Jeremy suggested that Hari set his Canon EOS 7D Mark II to Manual mode (M on the mode dial), as this would let him take full control of his camera settings and exposure parameter. It also means his camera settings will be locked off and won’t change even if the lighting does. Jeremy recommends regularly checking your shots on the back of the camera screen to make sure that your exposures are looking good, and reshooting an image if you’re not totally happy with it. STARTING SETTINGS Using Manual mode, Jeremy suggested that Hari start with a middle aperture of around f/8, which is usually the ‘sweet spot’ on most kit lenses and wide-angles, so that he could get fantastic sharpness throughout his city scenes.…

PRO TIP BRACE YOURSELF Space is very limited on the viewing platform at the top of the church tower and as such tripods aren’t permitted. If you want to get sharp photos hand-held with the light levels fading it can be tricky, but it’s not impossible. Jeremy and Hari boosted their ISO, switched on Image Stabilisation on their lenses, and braced themselves tightly against the edge of the viewing platform to keep as steady as possible. Of course, you also always want to wear your camera strap firmly around your neck to avoid accidentally dropping your camera! JEREMY’S COMMENT Shooting from the north side of the tower presented me with this fantastic cityscape, and I was keen to squeeze as much of the environment into the frame as possible, so…

HARI’S COMMENT Continuing down High Street we made our way to the Magdalen Bridge, which has a large footpath on which we could set up our tripods and compose a shot with the road in the bottom third of the frame and the wonderful Magdalen Chapel in the background. I wanted to use the long exposure technique Jeremy had shown me, so I used a long exposure time of 30 secs to give me plenty of time to build up a lot of traffic trails from the vehicles going past. To do this I used Shutter Priority mode, and set the shutter speed to 30 secs and the ISO to 800; my camera then worked out that the aperture needed to be set to f/22 for a correct exposure. JEREMY’S…

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30 MINS When you think about shooting portraits, long exposures and movement are probably the last things that come to mind. But in this tutorial we’re going to show you how you can use motion blur to create a series of incredible abstract portraits in the comfort of your own home. While our photographs might look like they were shot using artificial lighting in a studio, they were actually captured in a spare bedroom. The key is setting up next to a large window or patio doors to allow indirect light to illuminate your subject. You can use a dedicated photography background like us, but a plain wall or sheet will provide a suitable backdrop too. Portrait photographers usually prefer the flexibility of shooting handheld, but in this case a…

Canon has announced the EOS R5 C, a video-first version of the standard EOS R5 that shoots internal 8K 12-bit up to 60p, has Dual Base ISO, and possesses an integrated cooling fan – which means that it has “no limitations on shooting”. While the EOS R5 C is, at its core, very similar to the standard EOS R5, it’s specifically a Cinema EOS product. In short, where the R5 was a stills camera that enabled you to shoot video (with compromises such as recording limits), the R5 C is a cinema camera that enables you to shoot stills. To that end, the camera operates in two distinct modes. Boot it up in stills mode and it behaves almost identically to the R5; it has the same menus, the same…

JEREMY’S COMMENT I met up with Hari at the Sheldonian Theatre in Oxford just before sunset. This period is called the ‘golden hour’, and it’s when the low angle of the sun bathes the world around you in a beautiful golden light. We got very lucky at this location as there were some gaps in the cloud, which allowed the amazing light to shine through;, however there was too much contrast to capture enough detail in a single exposure. I tried using an ND grad filter to tame the sky, but in the end I shot a bracket of three exposures each spaced a stop apart. I later blended the three shots together, which enabled me to retain the highlights in the sky, as well as the deep shadows in…

1 DIM THE LIGHTS When you’re shooting at night it can be worth turning down your LCD screen’s brightness to reduce glare and help keep your night vision intact. 2 DO A RECCE Visit and explore your favourite cities regularly, as you’ll soon find your favourite spots, and also discover new buildings and scenes every time. 3 SHOOT RAW Raw files contain loads of extra exposure info, giving you additional editing options in post. 4 ANTICIPATE THE MOMENT When framing up with people, anticipate where they’ll go so that you can shoot at the ideal moment. 5 INVEST IN THE RIGHT KIT There’s no point investing money in good-quality camera bodies and lenses only to put a cheap filter on your lens. Do your kit justice and invest in good-quality…

URNER BODEN ANDREAS LANZ “I shot this image on a hike near the Klausen Pass in central Switzerland with my Panasonic Lumix GX80 and Olympus M.Zuiko DIGITAL ED 9-18mm.” https://bit.ly/3rp2Ocy ENDANGERED NEW ZEALAND DOTTEREL DAVE HORTON “I photographed this New Zealand dotterel, also known as the New Zealand plover or red-breasted dotterel, on a beach in the Bay of Plenty on the northern coast of New Zealand’s North Island.” https://bit.ly/3ngtpI5 STUDIO JEANS LUCA SANTORO “I took this photo of model Elisa Bachis during a studio shoot. The pose accentuates the curves of her figure despite the fact that she’s wearing jeans.” https://bit.ly/3fv7b0p A PLACE IN THE SHADE DMITRY KOVALEV “This is the Teberda State Natural Biosphere Reserve in the Russian republic of Karachay-Cherkessia.” https://bit.ly/3wTkW0U FACEBOOK http://bit.ly/39py9lg FLICKR http://bit.ly/2VIgsJO PHOTOGRAPHY WEEK…

WATCH THE VIDEO https://bit.ly/3kRnKqv DOWNLOAD THE PROJECT FILES https://bit.ly/pho_129 ON A PC OR MAC The basic mechanics of the Clone Stamp Tool are simple: you Alt-click to sample pixels from one place, then paint to replicate them in another. But there’s real skill involved in cloning, and the tool takes experience to master. In fact, with the possible exception of the Pen Tool, the Clone Stamp Tool could be the most involved tool in Photoshop. As you’ll discover in this video tutorial, when you delve into the Clone Source Panel, experiment with brush blending modes and discover cloning in the Vanishing Point filter, you’ll realise there’s a lot more to cloning than meets the eye. Our seascape image looks clean enough at first glance, but there are a few glaring…

PRO JEREMY FLINT CAMERA: CANON EOS 5D MK IV Jeremy is a pro photographer who specialises in travel, landscape and location photography. Jeremy won the National Geographic Traveller Grand Prize in 2016, and the Association of Photographers Discovery Award in 2017. https://bit.ly/2Jw4Qpt APPRENTICE HARI MANGAT CAMERA: CANON EOS 7D MARK II Hari is a retired software engineer who’s been interested in photography since his dad bought him an old box camera when he was 11 years old. He later graduated to a Canon 1000 film camera, before going digital with a Canon EOS 7D Mark II. He’s looking for tips to help him get better pictures at night and in low light.…

1 PROFESSIONAL TRIPOD For landscapes and architecture shots you usually have the luxury of time to frame up on a tripod to get the composition exactly how you want it. This also has the benefit of helping to prevent camera shake, and allows for longer exposures to blur moving elements, such as clouds or people. Jeremy’s tripod of choice is a Gitzo GT2542LS with a Manfrotto 405 head. 2 TELEPHOTO LENS You might think a wide-angle lens would be the best choice for landscapes and cityscapes, but a long lens like the 70-200mm Jeremy uses can be very effective in certain situations. These allow you to zoom in on details to get frame-filling shots, and also enable you to compress the perspective so that buildings appear closer together. Jeremy’s telephoto…

The UK’s Chartered Institute of Building (CIOB) has announced the winners of the 2021 The Art of Building photography competition, with Russian photographer Mikhail Proskalov taking the Judges’ Prize for his dramatic and dizzying image of the Lakhta Centre in St Petersburg, which he captured with a DJI Mavic 2 Pro drone. Rahaman Hossain, from India, won the Public’s Choice Award for his beautiful image of the spectacular Humayun’s Tomb in Delhi. The UNESCO World Heritage Site was completed in 1572 to commemorate Mughal Emperor Humayun. The Art of Building is open to both amateur and professional photographers, with the Judges’ Prize awarded by panel of experts and the Public’s Choice award chosen via online vote. Click the link to see all the finalists, and images from previous contests, at…

Many things have changed since Photoshop first came to dominate the photo-editing market. We’ve all got much larger and more complicated photo libraries now, and we need software that we can use to organise, search and share these growing collections. There’s also a growing interest in more evocative ‘looks’ that can be applied quickly and simply across a whole batch of photos. And, most of all, we want to be able to change our minds – hence the rise of non-destructive, or ‘parametric’ photo editing, as used by Lightroom, Capture One and a whole host of other photo editors. Very often you’ll come back to an image and see a better way of adjusting it, or see how to tweak the settings to get a better result, and non-destructive tools…

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