Innehållsförteckning för No. 567 från Photography Week

Welcome to the world’s No.1 weekly digital photography magazine. If you’re already a reader, thanks for your continued support and involvement; if you’re new to Photography Week, you’ve come to the right place! In addition to expert advice, brilliant tips and step-by-step tutorials, every issue features interactive galleries of brilliant photos, how-to videos on essential shooting and editing techniques, and in-depth reviews of the latest camera kit. But that’s not the whole story. Photography Week is more than a magazine – it’s a community of like-minded people who are passionate about photography. To get involved, just follow any of the links below and share your shots and comments. JOIN THE PHOTOGRAPHY WEEK COMMUNITY AND START SHARING! FACEBOOK http://bit.ly/39py9lg TWITTER http://bit.ly/2vGadLP FLICKR http://bit.ly/2VIgsJO We’re more than just a magazine – read…

With astrophotography, you will need a fair amount of technical knowledge to help you handle the lack of light; however, while there are many expensive astro cameras on the market, it’s not necessary to purchase one. With practice, you can achieve breathtaking results with your current DSLR or mirrorless camera. “You can do excellent astrophotography without any modification by either choosing objects that are emitting light in other wavelengths or by simply exposing longer,” says Ralf Rohner. Full-frame sensor cameras tend to produce the best results, due to their larger sensors, low image noise and high sensitivity, which enables you to work with long exposures and high ISO values. Above all, it’s important to be familiar with your equipment and do some thorough research before venturing out to photograph the…

1 Galloway Int’l Dark Sky Park Dumfries & Galloway, Scotland 2 Beacons Dark Sky Reserve Usk, Wales 3 Exmoor Dark Sky Reserve Devon, England 4 Sark Dark Sky Island Sark, Channel Islands 5 Cairngorms Dark Sky Park Tomintoul, Scotland 6 OM Dark Sky Park & Observatory Omagh, Northern Ireland 7 Yorkshire Dales Int’l Dark Sky Reserve North York Moors 8 Northumberland Dark Sky Park Northumberland, England 9 Pembrokeshire Dark Sky Discovery Sites Wales 10 Snowdonia Int’l Dark Sky Reserve Wales STAY WARM Prepare for the conditions by packing headlamps, a power bank and extra batteries. Don’t forget a camping chair, drinks and food, as well as a jacket, and gloves or chemical hand warmers – these can also be used to prevent lenses fogging.…

To capture galaxies, nebulae or other celestial objects, attaching a telescope to your camera is essential. When choosing a telescope, consider factors such as the mount’s weight capacity, tracking accuracy and compatibility. You don’t have to spend a lot – the Celestron Inspire 100AZ, for example, is great for beginners. You will need a T-ring and T-adapter that are compatible with the telescope’s make and model. Attach these pieces securely before capturing the universe. Be patient, and seek advice from astronomers if needed.…

Photography magazine and website All About Photo runs regular photo contests based on the theme of the latest print issue that consistently produce a remarkably high standard of entries, and the latest competition, ‘B&W’, is no exception. Belgian photographer Alain Schroeder took first prize for his series Kim City, which he shot in the challenging environment of Pyongyang in North Korea, which under Kim Jong Un remains one of the most secretive and restrictive nations in the world. As Schroeder explains: “Chaperoned and surveilled by two official government guides at all times is standard practice for foreign visitors. You are told what to do, what to look at or not, and what to photograph.” Click the link to see more images from the B&W competition, get details of upcoming contests,…

www.sigma-imaging.co.uk £850/$849 The Sigma 50mm F1.4 DG DN Art has a heritage that includes the T 50mm F1.4 DG HSM for DSLRs, launched in 2014 as the second ‘Art’ prime in the company’s Global Vision lineup. This ‘DN’ version, redesigned for mirrorless E and L mount cameras with no concessions to minimising size and weight, gains a host of impressive upgrades. This 50mm prime has a complex optical layout for a ‘nifty fifty’, based on 14 elements in 11 groups, with the aim of enhancing colour rendition, contrast, and edge-to-edge sharpness. The DN edition features a new HLA (High-response Linear Actuator) autofocus motor, which is swift for stills and offers smooth transitions and virtually silent operation for video. Build and handling have improved over the DG edition, and the DN…

Tamron has announced that it’s developing a Nikon Z version of its Tamron 35-150mm F/2-2.8 Di III VXD, which will go on sale later this year. The lens will be Tamron’s second Nikon Z-mount zoom, following on from the Tamron 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3 Di III RXD, which was introduced last year. The full-frame Tamron 35-150mm F/2-2.8 Di III VXD is already sold in Sony E-mount, and will be equally suitable for use on an APS-C DX camera body, such as the Nikon Z50, on which it will give an equivalent focal length range of 53-225mm. The lens has an unusually fast maximum aperture of f/2, which is faster than any zoom currently available for Z-mount cameras. Tamron is also the only manufacturer, so far, to have produced autofocus lenses for the…

“The left-hand image was captured with my non-modified camera from a dark site, and is the result of a 270s (combined) exposure time. The right-hand image was captured with my astro-modified camera from my suburban backyard. The much longer (combined) exposure time and wider aperture meant I captured 28 times more light. Together with the lower ISO and the full-frame chip, this made the image less noisy, allowing me to stretch the image to the extreme in editing. While the red nebulas stand out better, the subtle blue hues were simply swamped by the polluted sky. Due to the exaggerated red sensitivity of the camera, the stars don’t appear as colourful.”…

One key factor affecting image sharpness is the rotation of the Earth, as this will turn the stars blurry when you’re working with uncontrolled exposure times. Fortunately, there are techniques to help you achieve sharp results, including the 500 rule: calculate the maximum exposure time by dividing 500 by the full equivalent focal length of your lens. However, this rule dates back to the early digital cameras with low pixel counts, so it may not be the most accurate guide for today’s high-resolution cameras. Cameras now have much higher resolutions, and show star trailing with shorter exposure times than suggested by the 500 rule. To calculate the maximum exposure time even more precisely, use the NPF rule: (35 x aperture + 30 x pixel pitch) ÷ focal length = shutter…

The beauty and intrigue of the Milky Way galaxy make it a favourite among astrophotography enthusiasts. There are two orientations of the Milky Way that can be observed from Earth – one is the view of the Milky Way as a band of stars that stretches diagonally across the night sky, and the other view is a more detailed one, which reveals the spiral shape of the Milky Way, with a central bar and arms that extend outwards. While the former view can be seen with the naked eye, the latter requires a telescope or other specialised equipment. First and foremost, timing is key. The best season for shooting the Milky Way is between February and October, between midnight and 5am. The best direction to face will depend on your…

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30 MINS In this Crash Course we’re going to show you how to make your own macro lighting setup that will work anywhere, at any time, and save space in your camera bag – and best of all it doesn’t cost a great deal of money. There’s no need for clunky ring flashes, or dual flash heads that sit on the end of your lens – you need just one flashgun, a lens, a flash bracket, a wired flash trigger and a light diffuser to make a robust, mobile, macro studio. Diffusing the light is the extra step that will enable you to capture studio-quality portraits of your macro subjects. You can mount everything together using the flash bracket, and you can lock in the settings you need to ensure…

Capturing the galaxy and its natural phenomena is an extraordinary experience that can be incredibly rewarding. But shooting such a complex and largely mysterious area in all its beauty presents many challenges. You may think this genre requires expensive gear, but with your current DSLR or mirrorless camera and a few accessories, shooting images from light-years away is possible. As well as understanding the galaxy, understanding the planet that you’re photographing it from is crucial – the Earth won’t stop rotating to help you get clearer images, and when you’re venturing into the dark, preparation is key to overcoming light pollution, one of the biggest enemies of clear astro shots. And gone are the days of simple and quick shooting in single frames; capturing the best astrophotography requires lots of…

In order to capture stunning I astrophotography, it’s crucial to prepare meticulously ahead of time, and a key part of this prepartion is to become familiar with the environment before venturing out at night. Explore the location during daylight hours to help orientate yourself and plan your compositions, particularly if you’re on the coast or in the mountains, where small cliffs and obstacles can pose a challenge. The visibility of constellations and planets depends on factors such as location, season, moon phase, light pollution and weather conditions. Apps will help you research which astronomical events will be visible and when. Sky Tonight or Stellarium app, for example, are great tools for stargazing. Simply point your phone at the sky and the app will provide real-time information on the locations of…

1 GAIN CONTROL Select manual mode and shoot in raw. Select the widest aperture (with the smaller f-stop number) available, so that the camera will let as much light hit the sensor as possible. 2 TEST LIMITS Test the extent to which your camera is performing with high ISO values, so that you know where your camera’s limits are and can avoid ruining the photo with extreme image noise. 3 WATCH THE HISTOGRAM In shots of the sky, if you notice that the left side of the histogram shows that you’re in danger of clipping the blacks, increase the ISO until you achieve the desired balance. 4 CUSTOM WHITE BALANCE To transport the atmospheric light, deactivate the auto white balance and set this up manually. Go into your camera menu…

The aurora borealis is caused by charged particles from the sun colliding with the Earth’s magnetic field. To shoot this captivating moment, it’s essential to check the aurora activity and visibility through a KP index on websites like space-weatherlive.com. While capturing it, monitor your histogram, as overexposure can be a challenge. To begin with, consider using wide apertures and ISO values around 800 with a 10-second exposure. If the aurora is moving quickly, adjust your settings to shorter exposures and higher ISO values to achieve sharper shots.…

Curves has long been one of the most powerful tools in C Photoshop and Lightroom. Whether you want to boost contrast, tweak brightness, experiment with creative colour shifts, or make any number of other adjustments, Curves will often be your best option. It isn’t the easiest of tools to master, but avoiding Curves altogether would be a mistake: with a little practice, it becomes the most intuitive and versatile of tonal adjustment tools. These days you’ll find Curves in lots of different image-editing apps. As well as Photoshop, Camera Raw and Lightroom, Curves features in Premiere, InDesign and more, so it’s worth taking a few minutes to master the basics. What’s more, for Camera Raw and Lightroom users, Curves can now be used in tandem with masking tools, so you…

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