Innehållsförteckning för December 2022 från REVOLUTION WATCH

And so it is, my friends, we have come to the end of the 2022 watch year. And what a year it has been. The Swiss watch industry experienced what has got to be its most historically bullish period of all time. We saw the entire category of hype watches skyrocketing in price to inconceivable values. But then the watch industry experienced its first moment of vulnerability since the onset of the COVID pandemic. Starting with the war in Ukraine and followed by news of looming recessions, the cryptocurrency crash and political chaos in the United Kingdom, we had the first moment of global uncertainty for watches. And as a result, we saw the prices of those same hype watches come crashing back down. For the majority of people in…

In his six years at the helm of Cartier, what Cyrille Vigneron has enacted is nothing short of miraculous. He’s brought Cartier back to reclaim its position as the second largest luxury watch brand in the world as of 2021, with an all-time record revenue for watches of 2.39 billion Swiss francs. And he’s done it by regrowing the connective tissue between Cartier’s halcyon history as the unrivaled master of shaped watches and its current collection. By making some of the best watches in Cartier’s history, he has stimulated a heretofore-never-witnessed level of interest in all Cartier watches, from vintage pieces to rare limited editions, as well as the more popular collections, with impressive auction results such as the 403,200 Swiss francs fetched by a rare 1972 Cartier London Pebble…

Sure, there have been several attempts in recent history of watch brands trying to replace the escapement, hairspring and balance wheel with a single-piece monolithic oscillator. There was the Zenith Defy LAB, made in a small series with a massive silicon framework occupying the entirety of the dial and vibrating at 15 hertz — all for the price of CHF 30,000. It’s a watch cool enough that I was compelled to buy one. There was the TAG Heuer Mikrogirder, winner of the 2012 Geneva Grand Prix’s Aiguille d’Or, which uses an “excitatory beam” blazing away at an insane 1,000 hertz. As far as I know, it was made as a concept watch, or possibly only in a few examples. Then, there is the Résonique High Frequency escapement created by none…

Unbeknownst to some, Longines traces its legacy back to 1832, when Auguste Agassiz and his fellow watchmakers opened a humble workshop in St-Imier. The success that Longines enjoys today is largely thanks to Agassiz’s forward-thinking nephew Ernest Francillon, who joined the company in 1852. Francillon opened the Longines factory in 1867, in a precinct named Es Longines, which translates to “long meadows” and from which the brand takes its name. Francillon desired a technologically advanced factory. His brainchild incorporated the latest construction and crafting machinery, along with hydro-electric turbines, which made Longines one of the first Swiss watch brands to mechanize the production of watches. Incidentally, Longines also has the oldest trademark that is still valid today. The Longines brand name was filed in 1880, and the winged hourglass logo…

Hermès Horloger CEO Laurent Dordet doesn’t feel stressed by the lofty bar set by his brand’s previous wins at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG). He doesn’t lose sleep over fellow fashion brands sweeping news headlines with high watchmaking complications either. His strategy is simple: ignore fleeting trends and chart a unique path for Hermès timepieces. If anything, his brand’s eight GPHG wins (as of this year) are testament that he should stay the course. Hermès was historically a saddlemaker but, over the years, it gradually and successfully diversified into leather accessories, homeware, silk, apparel, jewelry, beauty and fragrances. Not many people know that Hermès has been making watches for a long time now. Hermès produced its first watch in 1912 and La Montre Hermès S.A. was founded in…

The prevailing thought I had after conducting a symposium during Geneva Watch Days on the new generation of watch leadership was, “Wow, the watch industry is in great hands!” It is clear that the Swiss watch industry is experiencing a crucial generational shift, where young leaders in their 20s and 30s are now beginning to take up the mantel of managing some of the world’s most iconic brands and becoming the industry’s next significant entrepreneurs. What is perhaps most impressive to me is that even though almost all of these individuals have fathers who are icons of the watch or luxury world and most of them come from families with staggering wealth and power, they are all, to a fault, incredibly humble, 100 percent genuine, extraordinarily sincere, with each of…

Alexandre Mille represents everything that is great about the generational shift that is taking place throughout the watch industry. And while he has his larger-than-life father’s extraordinary charisma and warmth, he approaches his role as the commercial director of Richard Mille with grace, humility and respect. What is impressive about Mille is as follows: While it is one thing to forge a huge success with a recently created brand, it is another thing altogether to plan and execute its immortality, the ability to endure from decade to decade and generation to generation. Mille’s brilliance is that everything he does is focused on forging that next successive link in the chain that will stretch into infinity and reassure Richard Mille’s existence forever.…

It’s been a high-octane quarter for the watch industry! In this issue of Revolution, we highlight desirous new releases from Audemars Piguet, Bvlgari, Chronoswiss, Franck Muller, Frederique Constant, Greubel Forsey, Longines, Norqain, Panerai, Patek Philippe, Trilobe, Tutima, Unimatic, Vulcain and more. On our cover is a momentous re-release by Cartier: the fabled Pebble-shaped watch. We also mark joyous occasions including the opening of MB&F’s first-ever Lab and Cortina Watch’s 50th anniversary, and we got to pick the brains of the leaders of brands such as Cartier, Hermès and Louis Moinet. As the volatile watch market regains stability, our Power Lists shine the spotlight on today’s movers and shakers, and our Revolution Awards celebrate the brands and individuals who have excelled in their respective categories. Can’t get enough of Revolution? Follow…

Cartier is very good at a great many things. As a watchmaker, it excels at the art of shaped watches. This might seem like a fairly simple task — after all, how hard can it be to convert a simple geometric shape into a watch — but over the years, Cartier has approached the challenge with a bold-yet-deft touch, resulting in some surprisingly sophisticated silhouettes. Take, for example, the Santos — Cartier’s very first wristwatch and one of its most enduring. It is, essentially, a square watch with broad flanks and lugs, and an affinity for visible screws. In the hands of another maker, this design would be unequivocally masculine, yet Cartier’s design cleverly integrates a certain softness around the edges — a refinement that is somewhat surprising given that…

“Dude, on the wrist this watch is simply incredible. It fits perfectly. The diameter is amazing. At first, when I heard we were reducing the diameter from 44mm to 40mm, I thought that the height at 11.3mm might be a bit thick. But on the wrist, it is perfectly balanced. The indications are all still perfectly visible! It’s a masterpiece. Damn, now I have to save up my money to hopefully have one, one day.” When a brandʼs head of sales is so smitten by a watch he’s just released that he now wants to join the dauntingly long wait-list to one day own this piece, that says a hell of a lot about its irrefutable beauty. But that was exactly the reaction of my friend Jörg Hysek Jr. as…

I often use the following analogy when describing the evolution of the watch from a precision device to an object whose primary function is to give its wearer emotion: Previous to the Quartz Crisis, a watch’s primary purpose was to give time as accurately as possible. In this history of watchmaking, accuracy was prized above all else because it was fundamental to the global expansion of European colonies, key to the efficient and safe running of America’s railway system, and even ensured the safe return of the astronauts of Apollo 13 when all their electronic systems failed onboard their spacecraft. The story of John Harrison and the creation of the world’s first marine chronometer — a watch so accurate that it allowed sailors to correctly ascertain longitude while at sea…

Even within the realm of uber-high horology, Greubel Forsey stands apart vividly for its completist approach to watchmaking. For nearly two decades now, Greubel Forsey has been producing some of the world’s most visually and intellectually exciting timepieces wherein every aspect of watchmaking is explored to the fullest extent — be it finishing or movement design and architecture or chronometry. Whereas most watches on the market tend to be about any one or two things, Greubel Forsey addresses every line of inquiry with equal fervor and integrate them in a manner that is virtually the sole preserve of the marque. They also occupy a significant place in watchmaking history with regards to the development of the tourbillon as a genuine aid to rate stability in a wristwatch. In the years…

“We analyzed this meteorite and found amino acids in it,” Louis Moinet’s CEO and creative director Jean-Marie Schaller says to me holding a soft alien rock. “You know what that means: there is life elsewhere in the universe!” He isn’t exaggerating. Amino acids are the basic building blocks of proteins and also of DNA. If this nitro hydrocarbon compound evolves in parts of the universe beyond Earth, then hydrocarbon lifeforms are likely to emerge from there too. Based in Saint-Blaise, Switzerland, Jean-Marie has been buying many meteorites, then having them analyzed and certified, in a bid to create unique timepieces. His brand Louis Moinet’s timepieces are divided into two categories: timepieces that are inspired by space fall under “Cosmic Art,” while the technically advanced timepieces that Jean-Marie and his watchmakers…

All day long, George Mayer talks about watches, specifically to his clients whom he considers his friends. And while doing so, he’s demonstrated an extraordinary capacity to influence market sentiment for brands like F.P. Journe, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie. and now Greubel Forsey. How is he able to do this? First of all, because his unbridled passion for true, authentic and inspiring watchmaking is as infectious as it gets, so much so that he is less of a sales director and more of an evangelist for independent watchmaking and horology in general. Secondly, his knowledge is on par with any of the most august journalists in the world and rivals even that of WatchBox’s horological guru in residence, Tim Mosso. And thirdly, because he lives by the simple…

The famous Duomo Clock in the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (aka the Florence Duomo) was in a state of disrepair until Panerai chimed in (get it?) to renovate it in 2014. Painted by artist Paolo Uccello and engineered by clockmaker Angelo di Niccolò around the mid-15th century, this unusual clock is divided into 24 sectors and displays ora italica (“Italian time”), also known as Bohemian time. Its 24th hour ends around seven in the evening, as ora italica was designed to inform farmers how much daylight they had left to complete their outdoor tasks. Then, the first hour of this counterclockwise clock begins. The Duomo Clock’s generous benefactor also unveiled a perpetual calendar this year, which is an updated rendition of 2021’s Goldtech PAM 742 and Platinumtech PAM…

The business of watches — like any business — has ups and downs. For other brands, major events like the global financial crisis, pandemics and the Chinese anti-corruption crackdown, to cite a few examples, have been a white-knuckle ride of uncertainty and anxiety. The watch industry establishment, though, remains serenely unaffected, keeping calm and carrying on. They have led the way in both innovation and business, and come what may, they will continue to do so. JASMINE AUDEMARS, ALESSANDRO BOGLIOLO AND THE BOARD OF DIRECTORS, AUDEMARS PIGUET Audemars Piguet is riding high in 2022. Indeed, the brand’s stock has never been higher, and CEO François-Henry Bennahmias is the most visible agent of this change. However, Bennahmias’ long tenure is set to end as he will be stepping down in 2023,…

François-Henry Bennahmias is affectionately known around the world as “The Boss,” though I think Capo di tutti Capi, meaning “Boss of all Bosses” or “Godfather” would be equally descriptive. Regardless of what you want to call him, you have to admit the man is absolute genius. First was his meteoric rise from golf pro to working for Audemars Piguet in Singapore, to becoming the boss of Audemars Piguet in North America. It was in the U.S. that he made Audemars Piguet the very first luxury Swiss watch brand to jump head first into contemporary culture with appearances on Entourage, a limited edition with Jay-Z and LeBron James, and so much more. He recognized early on that a watch doesn’t need to be confined by its “timepiece” category but could be…

In the past couple of years, there has been a tremendous thirst for independently made watches. What were once silent figures who labored in the shadows of their globally renowned competitors have emerged at the forefront of horology today, capturing the hearts and minds of both the seasoned collector and the wide-eyed newcomer as the ultimate expression of horological prowess. In many ways, the very nature of independent watchmaking defies horological history, which in broad strokes is a story encompassing the manifold changes wrought by the forces of industrialization and democratization. It is the pursuit of horology as an art form, be it artisanal, conceptual, technical or artistic, without consideration for expense or time that separates them from the big players. And in developing a much more specialized line of…

What justifies the Microbrands category on Revolution’s 2022 power list? Firstly, it’s because these promising upstart brands created or relaunched by young entrepreneurs and designers are, in many ways, tapped much more into the zeitgeist of the current generation of watch collectors. And with good reason — because the creators behind the brands are the same age as the customers they are creating their watches for. Secondly, while it might have been unthinkable a decade ago that these individuals and their brands could have a huge impact on the watch industry, thanks to the advent of online platforms such as Instagram and Kickstarter, many of these brands have gone on to achieve great success. Even more importantly, as the majority of their founders are in their 30s, they represent the…

What makes Van Cleef & Arpels’ timepieces some of the most intriguing around is perhaps how their ingenious mechanics are often willfully shrouded in an innocent-looking visual language of butterflies and ballerinas. The latest Lady Arpels Heures Florales is an extraordinary example of this exciting juxtaposition and a reminder of the enormous emotional impact a watch that’s lighthearted yet every bit as completist can make. Its dream-like dial displays the hours with 12 animated corollas that open and close at the top of the hour. The hours are read simply by counting the number of corollas that blossom. But more than that, the feat lies in its highly naturalistic portrayal whereby the order in which the flowers open and close from hour to hour appears to be at random. It…

Revolution is pleased to put together a list of the promising young people whom we think will be the future leaders and trendsetters of the Swiss watch industry. The majority of these individuals are still in their 20s and one is not yet in her teens, but they have already begun to make a significant impact on the watch world. They range in occupation, from watchmakers and communication experts to something I can’t define, to be honest. Nonetheless, each of them brings a unique light, intelligence, energy and positivity to this industry we hold so dear. AMANDINE, WATCH ENTHUSIAST AND FUTURE CEO Daughter of the former head of sales for Revolution Switzerland, Amandine, at all of 11 years old, is already being earmarked as a future powerhouse in the Swiss…

There are a lot of things about the Superdiver that make it, well, super. But they aren’t the things you’d expect. Yes, it’s rated to 1,000m, has a helium escape valve and a fancy crown, but that’s not too remarkable. What is impressive is the fact that this is an ultra deep diver that’s actually wearable, thanks to titanium and smart case ergonomics. This isn’t something that can be said of all, ahem, deep-dwelling watches. For me, though, the real standout is how well TAG Heuer — the brand of motorsports and chronographs — has adapted to the underwater world. Honestly, the Aquaracer, in general, is a phenomenally strong collection, and this professional take on the genre is no different. One of the key reasons for the brand’s success in…

In the old days, we could only preview new watches and learn about our favorite brands from magazines. Today, brands and their new offerings are grabbing our attention on a myriad of online platforms — and it’s not just brands who are posting about themselves. Stylish, well-heeled social media influencers are the new conduit of relaying the latest information about new timepieces and that horological lifestyle that they rock so well. This list is by no means comprehensive, but if you’re craving more wrist-swag content, check out these social media movers and shakers we are following. @ANDREW_MORGAN_WATCHES (MR. TALKING HANDS ON YOUTUBE) Andrew Morgan chose to remain anonymous at first. As his moniker suggests, he let his hands do the talking when reviewing watches on the Watchfinder & Co. YouTube…

The founder of TudorCollector.com, Ross Povey is regarded as the world’s leading expert on vintage Tudor watches. He is currently Editor-in-Chief of Revolution magazine in the UK. He has contributed to influential horological publications including The Telegraph, The Rake, Watchonista and Hodinkee, and is the co-author of the book Daytona Perpetual, a celebration of the automatic Rolex Daytona released through Pucci Papaleo Editore. Ross is also an international speaker and regularly hosts watch events in the UK and Europe. Cheryl Chia is a watch writer with a deep interest in independent watchmaking, movement engineering and decoration. Contrary to popular sentiment, she believes that watches can be assessed objectively in terms of complexity, quality and finishing. Felix Scholz has spent the last decade writing professionally about watches, yet he still struggles with…

Revolution Magazine presents multi-faceted views of the work of genius that is the mechanical watch. Enjoy interesting, insightful long and short format stories curated for today’s sophisticated watch collector. Hear from industry insiders on the state of the horological world. Above all, share our love and passion for all things horology. Sign up for a one-or two-year subscription via RevolutionWatch.com. Digital subscriptions are also available. Scan to Subscribe…

Chronoswiss began life at a very interesting time for watches: in 1983. Gerd-Rüdiger Lang made the brave decision to zig when everyone else was zagging. In 1983, the biggest story in Swiss watchmaking was about the fantastic, plastic Swatch watch that was — essentially — disposable. Chronoswiss was the opposite; Lang took a risk founding a traditional brand, making mechanical watches at a time when everyone else seemed to be moving toward quartz technology. The ’80s global preoccupation with batteries didn’t hold Chronoswiss back, as the brand quickly established a clear identity. Classical watchmaking design codes and a penchant for a coin-edge bezel ensured that Chronoswiss stood out on the wrist. In 1988, Chronoswiss debuted a model that would earn them critical acclaim and also be hugely significant in defining…

Guillaume Laidet is on a roll. Like a big wave surfer catching an 86-foot monster at Nazaré, he’s hurtling through space riding the momentum of his success shouting, “Kawabunga!” And if you haven’t heard of him because you’ve been dwelling in a cave strictly following the Liver King’s diet of raw bull testicles and trying to perfect the Brahmananda Saraswati’s technique for transcendental meditation, now is the time to snap out of it and pay attention. Because Guillaume is an important part of a new generation of watch entrepreneurs — think Etienne Malec of Baltic, Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri of Furlan Marri, and Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron of Atelier Wen — who are absolutely revolutionizing the watch industry. While several of these individuals can rightly be described…

Several years ago, my good friend Michael Stuffler, German pilot’s watch expert, told me the reason contemporary pilot’s watches are so popular is that they still breathe the “kerosene tainted air of former times.” Indeed, a pilot’s watch has a special aura, apart from its characteristics such as readability, robustness and utilitarian appearance. And it is this aura that makes them somehow immortal and more desirable. MODERN BUNDESWEHR CHRONOGRAPHS In 1949, at the beginning stages of the Cold War, the United States and its European allies created the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO), a military alliance to counter Soviet influence. In the mid-1950s, West Germany established their armed forces, known as the Bundeswehr. The Bundeswehr were issued three German pilot’s chronographs beginning with the Hanhart 417 in the late ’50s,…

The individuals featured here are by no means a comprehensive list of the leadership of the extraordinary Swiss watch industry. None of them are the creators of the brands they helm, yet every one of them has guided their maison’s future with incredible deftness of touch, courage and bravado. As such, they are simply — in our view — the leaders who have done the most this year to advance the culture of horology, and their contributions to the success of our industry are of huge significance. From the multiple perspectives of brand building, brand renewal, ethics, events, “product creation” and collaborations, this is Revolution’s power list of the most energetic CEOs of the Swiss watch industry in 2022. RAYNALD AESCHLIMANN, OMEGA One of the leading forces in the creation…

It is almost unbelievable to me that the young watchmaker with the greatest disparity in terms of the number of watches he is producing each year and the number of people that want to buy them, did not sell a watch for the first two and a half years of his brand’s existence. How things have changed and the timepiece that changed everything for him was the Chronomètre Contemporain, the first watch emblazoned with his name on the dial and unveiling his classical interpretation of a men’s watch. But the marvelous thing about Rexhepi is that he is never content to rest on his laurels — he has tracked down and convinced case-making legend Jean-Pierre Hagmann to join his operation, unveiling the jaw-droppingly beautiful Chronomètre Contemporain II, featuring a star-and-flirt…

Nicolas Hayek Jr. and Raynald Aeschlimann’s MoonSwatch, a bioceramic tribute to the legendary Omega Speedmaster, is not just a watch. It set off a cultural revolution that resulted in kilometer-long lines in front of Swatch boutiques and watches that are resold at 15 times their original asking price. But even more importantly, it ignited a desire and fervor for watch collecting amongst the younger generations, including one 11-year-old watch influencer named Amandine who managed to cop a light blue “Mission to Uranus” at the Geneva boutique on opening day. As such, Hayek and Aeschlimann’s greatest achievement is to allow the youth of today and customers of tomorrow to fall in love with luxury watches. For this, the entire Swiss watch industry is very much in their debt. Bravo, gentlemen!…

At the beginning of 2022, prices on pre-owned watches were reaching eye-watering levels that had never been seen before. At the top of the peak were pieces from the “Big Three” that we now refer to as “hype watches,” such as the Daytona, Nautilus and Royal Oak. This was fueled by a number of unique moments in modern history. Despite the cataclysmic nature of COVID, the fact that people were unable to travel, and it was not possible to eat, drink or dance the night away outside, meant that disposable incomes were at an all-time high. Secondly, the entire crypto economy went berserk, with investors making millions and billions in digital currencies. People liked to spend, and spend they did on watches… and plenty of them! The smart operators could…

The Cartier Crash Tigrée gets an award for any number of reasons, not least because it is the most extravagant version of Cartier’s most beloved shaped watch. Also, it is inherently challenging to rework an already highly idiosyncratic design. What’s most intriguing about the Tigrée is how the artisanal crafts of gem-setting and enameling are used to exploit the organic lines of the Crash so as to achieve a design that has an abstract, Rorschach-like effect — whether it is a tiger, a crocodile, a flowing river or simply a psychedelic tribute to the Swinging Sixties is open to interpretation. Totaling 1.64 carats, the diamonds are set in an irregular stripe pattern across the watch, interspersed with luscious streams of blue and green enamel that terminate at the bottom of…

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon is a clear winner as it combines a stop-seconds tourbillon with a constant-force mechanism in a format that is optimal and rarely executed. Since François-Paul Journe introduced the first tourbillon wristwatch with a remontoir in 1991, there have been a number of watches on the market that combine a torque regulating mechanism with a tourbillon. These come in the form of the fusée and chain, which is located at the power source, or the remontoir d’égalité, which is typically arranged along the gear train. The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, however, is among the rare few in the market that has a cage-mounted remontoir. In fact, the tourbillon and remontoir are constructed in a co-axial configuration in the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon. The remontoir, which…