FOR THE MOST famous cocktail in the world, the martini remains a riddle. The recipe is simple, verging on boring, made with just three components: gin, dry vermouth and bitters. Yet it’s shockingly easy to be served a terrible one and, unlike a boulevardier or a margarita, there’s no innate drinker’s sense as to where the best ones are hiding: I’ve had superlative martinis at southern BBQ joints, strip-mall Chinese restaurants and a surprising number of dive bars. The drink’s final, intangible ingredient, I’ve come to believe, is the atmosphere in which you drink it.
Washington, D.C., is an inherently good martini town, a heady, serious mix of back-room power dealing and well-lubricated diplomacy. And at the new Doyle, in the revamped Dupont Circle, senior bar manager Julian Enright pours…
