Skirting the Florida Panhandle, Route 98 connects the fishing villages of Franklin County to the Apalachee Bay, where peninsular Florida joins the mainland. A 220-mile stretch of it is known as the Big Bend Scenic Byway, which makes sense, since the sweeping arc of asphalt edges one of the nation's most beautiful coastlines, with views of the Gulf of Mexico to the south and Spanish moss—draped forests inland.
This blessedly underdeveloped section of Florida is nicknamed the Forgotten Coast. But, for its culinary treasures, we find it unforgettable. Meaty, deep-cupped oysters, harvested from beds where the Apalachicola River flows into the Gulf, sparkle with creamy, briny freshness. The wild and cultivated mollusks lead a menu of other marine delights and Dixie fare; we've feasted here on shrimp, crab, grouper, mullet,…
