Innehållsförteckning för 54 från Simply Sewing

Why do you sew your own clothes? Is it for the simple pleasure of being able to say: “I made it!” when someone compliments your outfit? Is it so you can achieve the perfect fit for your body shape? Is it so you can curate a wardrobe full of clothes that are 100% unique to you? Chances are that it’s all of the above - and more. We firmly believe that being creative is good for our minds. Take a look at this year’s World Craft Week campaign and its #makeitmindful theme (p8). Go on, be inspired to share your hobby - the joy of sewing is infectious. WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

SEWING ROOM GOALS If our sewing room looked like this, we’d never leave! In fact, it’s time to give our own space a tidy-up ready for some new-season arrivals – Stoff & Stil have added over 650 sewing goodies to their collection. Think warm caramel browns, burnt oranges, golden yellows, rich reds and statement tropical prints. www.stoffstil.co.uk MODERN MAKERS Fancy choosing from a wardrobe filled with lovely handmade garments every morning? Us too! And Workshop Patterns are here to help us do it with their beautiful basics we can enjoy wearing every day, all year round, from a boxy button-up blouse to a versatile pinafore. Go to www.helloworkshop.co.uk RAINBOW HOOPS W When we’re not at our sewing machine, we’re thinking about sewing – and when we’re not doing…

1. Adorn your ‘do with this slide by To Be Adorned, handmade with pearls from vintage necklaces nestled in a delicious froth of hand-sewn tulle. £21.45 from www.tobeadornedshop.etsy.com 2. You’ll feel like a queen (sewing) bee wearing this updated version of Alex Monroe’s iconic necklace, with a bee clutching a dainty freshwater pearl. Bee-utiful! £150, www.nationaltrust.org.uk 3. Bringing a stylish new meaning to the phrase ‘clutch your pearls’, this chic bag is made by hand in Lagos from Adire fabrics, indigenous to the Yoruba people of Nigeria. £70, www.leyelesi.etsy.com…

ZIP POUCH AND MIRROR When we want a speedy and satisfying sew, zip pouches never let us down! Ours has lipstick appliqué motifs for a retro vibe and a matching mirror pouch – we've even used a badge maker to personalise a pocket mirror using the leftover fabric. Thrifty! HAIRBAND Whether you're planning a spa day or an afternoon of sewing, keep your 'do all tied up and out of the way with this hairband. It's made with wire so is easy to wrap around and keep in place. How cute would a matching set of these be for a bridal party? DRAWSTRING BAGS Whether you're heading off on a weekend break or just Marie Kondo-ing your undies drawer, keep your smalls sorted in these easy-sew drawstring bags in two…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Mediumweight woven fabric: 1.5m (1¾yd), see notes for details ■ Standard zip: 23cm (9in) ■ Pattern paper: 2m (2¼yd), see notes for details ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. ■ Fabric and pattern paper quantities will depend on you measurements. FABRIC USED ■ The fabric used is a Twill Weave Suiting in Indigo from www.minervacrafts.com Designer Portia says: "This is a neat and versatile wardrobe basic that'll work in a variety of fabrics, comprising simple geometric shapes cut to your own measurements. Whip a few of these up and your spring wardrobe is good to go!" TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS Step one Take the following measurements: Waist: at the narrowest point of your waist. Skirt length: the length that…

1 Test the stitch before tackling your final garment, as you may need to adjust the tension and stitch width settings. Refer to your machine manual for guidance regarding the presser foot and stitch settings required. 2 Once you have found a stitch that works well for you, be sure to note down the stitch width, length, presser foot and tension settings you used. Complex stitches can be difficult to be recreate a second time! 3 Some machines have hundreds of stitches to choose from, others have just a few. No matter how many stitches your machine has, there will be at least one stitch that can be used or combined with other stitches to finish an edge.…

If our sustainable sewing feature on page 68 has you inspired to get stash-busting, here's a fun idea for your habby leftovers. These cotton reel bookmarks are just the thing for those ribbon scraps, buttons and reels you're not sure what to do with (but still keep in your craft box 'just in case'). Wrap ribbon around the reel and glue in place, and then thread another length of ribbon through the reel and sew a button onto either side to stop it pulling through. That's this year's birthday gifts sorted – our bookworm pals will love these!…

April marks six years since the Rana Plaza disaster – the fourth largest industrial disaster in history, in fact – in which 1,138 people died and a further 2,500 people were injured, mainly young women between the ages of 18 and 35. Upon hearing the news of this terrible tragedy, Carry Somers and Orsola de Castro felt compelled to do something to help, and thus Fashion Revolution was born. Their mission? To shine a light on unethical working practices and environmental issues created by the world's fashion industry, and to encourage people from all over the globe to come together and ask their favourite clothing brands: ‘#WhoMadeMyClothes?’. As sewists, it can sometimes feel like this is a pretty straightforward question to answer: most of the time, it’s us that have…

20% of global industrial water pollution comes from the treatment and dyeing of textiles. It takes 2,720 litres of water to make a T-shirt – that’s how much we would usually drink over three years. It’s estimated that we make 400 billion m2 of textiles annually; 60 billion m2 is cutting room floor waste. 95% of discarded clothing can be recycled or upcycled. For further information on the impact of the cotton trade and fast fashion on people and the planet, watch the True Cost documentary (www.truecostmovie.com) or visit www.fashionrevolution.org…

1 FABRIC BAZAAR Fabric and haberdashery shop offering everything from cottons to upholstery fabrics. For more information find us on Facebook and Instagram. fabricbazaar.co.uk 2 HOUSE OF SMOCKING We specialise in all things smocking, from beautiful lawns, batistes, piques and Swiss cottons, we also stock piping, lace, patterns, transfer dots and smocking pleaters. houseofsmocking.co.uk 3 GATHER ’N’ SEW We are so excited for spring and have lovingly selected a gorgeous range of modern fabrics for dressmakers and sewists. Pop in to see us in Bourne, Lincolnshire or visit our website. gathernsew.co.uk 4 BECKFORD SILK Silk Printers, Dyers and Retailers in the UK since 1975. Our online shop sells quality silk fabric direct at wholesale prices all designed printed and dyed by our team at Beckford. beckfordsilk.co.uk 5 SEW IN THE…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric A: 1 fat eighth ■ Fabric B: 1 fat quarter ■ Fabric C: 1 fat quarter ■ Fabric D: 1ydx45in (75x115cm) ■ Background fabric: 1¾ydx45in (1.5mx115cm) ■ Batting: 50x50in (1.25x1.25m) ■ Backing: 50x50in (1.25x1.25m) FABRICS USED All fabrics used are from the Liberty 40th Anniversary Classics Collection from Alice Caroline. Fabric A (Red): Mitsi B. Fabric B (Light Pink): Betsy B. Fabric C (Dark Pink): Betsy A. Fabric D (Blue): Mitsi A. Background fabric (White): Tana lawn plain. Go to www.alicecaroline.com Batting is Sew Simple Super Soft Cotton from EQS at www.eqsuk.com NOTES ■ Use a 5mm (¼in) seam allowance unless otherwise noted. ■ Fat quarter = 18x22in (45.5x56.8cm). ■ Fat eight = 11x18in (28x45.5cm). ■ WOF = Width of fabric. ■ HST = Half…

Spring has sprung and we can't get enough of it! It's not just our gardens that are full of flowers – we're prettying up our homes and wardrobes with them, too. Our cover star The Wrap Dress (p32) was born to be made in colourful petal-adorned fabrics. I'm definitely making a yellow one for my summer wardrobe! If subtle is more your style, you'll love our baby quilt (p84) made from Liberty's 40th Anniversary Collection prints. Even our cat plushie (p80) has got a floral frock on! Until next time... * GIFTS SUBJECT TO CHANGE. PAPER GIFTS ONLY AVAILABLE ON UK NEWSSTAND.…

There are so many reasons people take up sewing, but one that’s pretty much universal is a love of creating and wearing handmade clothes that make you feel great – there’s no other feeling like it! And stitcher Marisa Ryniak has taken it one step further, not only making clothes that make her feel happy, comfy and confident, but designing a varied collection of patterns so we can all do the same. Indeed, with ready-to-wear jeans that fit like a dream seemingly impossible to find, it’s no surprise that stitchers have been loving her jeans pattern. After all, why buy it when we can make it ourselves? “The most popular design of 2018 was the Scarlett Jean. I really stepped up the game with the new update and I’m thrilled…

20 APRIL Master Techniques; Zips, Buttonholes, Darts and Stitches. John Lewis, London. Practice hems and darts, learn how to do a one-step buttonhole and more. www.themakery.co.uk 20 APRIL Clone Your Closet. Manchester Craft and Design Centre. Create a copycat pattern from a favourite garment, including transferring details like darts, pleats, grainlines and pockets. www.ministryofcraft.co.uk 4 MAY Sew with jersey and make a T-shirt. Backstitch, Cambridge. Become a pro at sewing with stretch fabrics and make a staple T-shirt at this one-day workshop. www.backstitch.co.uk UNTIL 2 JUNE Elizabeth Suter: Sharp Lines and Swift Sketches. A display of the distinctive catwalk sketches of illustrator and fashion journalist Elizabeth Suter. www.ftmlondon.org…

Just like the staple shift and timeless fit-and-flare, wrap dresses are one of those wardrobe classics that always make us feel amazing when we put them on – and that's especially true for ones we've sewn ourselves! The style was made famous by designer Diane von Furstenberg in the 1970s, and now we can stitch our own with this issue's Wrap Dress: our ultimate version of this iconic look. With simple-sew grown-on sleeves and a tie fastening (no zips or buttons, hurrah!), this little number is easy to make, a doddle to fit to your shape and, as it's designed for drapey fabrics like crepe, rayon or cotton lawn, will be a dream to wear. And the pattern includes a chic wrap top, too! YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric:…

This issue's conscious crafting feature (p68) has got us thinking about the kinds of clothes we love to wear everyday – the ones we'll keep, love and look after for years to come. And this issue's Cora Set, by Sew Over It (www.sewoverit.co.uk), is exactly what we need more of. With an easy-wear fit and the option to make it as a tunic dress or top, this staple piece can easily be dressed up or down for weekends, work and special occasions. Add a waist belt, tuck it into jeans, wear it loose on the beach – the options are endless. The construction may be simple, but it's packed with fun-to-sew features: a V-shaped neckline with a unique pleat detail, grown-on sleeves and a high-low hemline with side splits. Hello,…

YOU WILL NEED To make all 11 constellation designs: ■ Quilting cotton: 1mx115cm (11/8ydx45in) ■ Linen fabric: 30x115cm (12x45in) ■ Embroidery hoop: 20cm (8in) ■ Stranded cotton in white ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/downloads FOUR-LEGGED KNOT Step one This stitch is similar to a cross stitch with a knot in the centre. Start by making a vertical straight stitch. Come up to the right of this stitch. Keeping the needle above the working thread, slide the needle under the vertical stitch.01 Step two Wrap the working thread over the end of the needle, then over the tip of the needle. Hold the working thread taut around the needle as you pull it through, tightening the knot around the vertical stitch.02 Step…

YOU WILL NEED Fabric for the table runner ■ Fabric A: 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Fabric B: 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Fabric C: 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Fabric D: 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Fabric E: 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Fabric F: 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Fabric G: 50cm (20in) x WOF ■ Fabric H: 1m (1yd) x WOF, for the backing ■ Wadding: 40cmx1.85m (15x73in) Fabric for four place mats ■ Fabric A: 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Fabric B: 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Fabric C: 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Fabric D: 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Fabric E: 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Fabric F: 46x57cm (18x22in) ■ Fabric G: 75cm (¾yd) x WOF ■ Fabric H: 1m (1yd) x WOF, for the backing ■ Wadding: 80x100cm (32x40in) For the table runner and placements ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FINISHED SIZES…

TENCEL / LYOCELL AND MODAL Tencel is the brand name for lyocell and modal fabrics. Lyocell fibres are derived from wood pulp; meanwhile, Modal fibres are mainly made from beech wood. According to the company’s website, www.tencel.com, both types of textiles are sourced from sustainably managed forests. Availablefrom: www.merchantandmills.com www.raystitch.co.uk www.offsetwarehouse.com BAMBOO SILK Also known as ‘vegan silk’, this type of fabric has a sheen on one side and is matte on the other, so it’s ideal for dresses, blouses and nightwear. Unfortunately its dyes are not certified, but the fabric itself is made from 100% Oeko-Tex certified bamboo. Availablefrom: www.raystitch.co.uk RAMIE This sustainable and biodegradable linen-style fabric is made from ramie, a plant that originates in China. Not only is it one of the oldest harvested fibres, that doesn’t…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric (see instructions for details) ■ Shirring elastic ■ Four decorative buttons ■ Four lengths of ribbon, each measuring 35.5cm (14in) in length and 2.5cm (1in) in width ■ 15cm (6in) square of plain fabric, for the appliqué NOTES ■ Use a 2.5cm (1in) seam allowance. ■ If this is your first time working with shirring elastic we recommend that you test the tension on a scrap of fabric before starting your project. SHIRRING Shirring elastic is placed in the bobbin of your sewing machine. Shirring is great for adding to summer dresses such as the one we have made, and is also great for gathering areas such as necklines, waists or wrists. When sewing with shirring elastic you will need to wind the elastic onto…

SOUTH READS OF WINCHESTER We sell both new and reconditioned sewing machines. We service and repair all makes of machine, a small haberdashery, machines on display to try before you buy. reads-of-winchester.co.uk  • enquiries@reads-of-winchester.co.uk SOUTH SEW BUSY Stockists of Makower, Robert Kaufman, Clothworks and Windham, ribbons, haberdashery, sewing goods and classes. sew-busy.co.uk SOUTH WEST BECKFORD SILK Silks & velvet. Natural, printed and dyed. Small quantities at wholesale prices. 01386 881 507 beckfordsilk.co.uk SOUTH EAST SEW DEVINE Sewing machine sales and service. Haberdashery and spares. Main dealer for Janome, Brother, Toyota, Juki, Singer, Baby Lock, Elna, Horn Cabinets. Free UK delivery (ask for details). 24 Wokingham Road, Reading, RG6 1JQ. sewdevine.co.uk  • 0118 926 8664 SOUTH EAST DOT TO DOT STUDIO Sewing classes and creative workshops for adults, teens…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 45x115cm (18x45in), for the outer and ears ■ Lining fabric: 45x75cm (18x30in) ■ Appliqué fabric: 19x15cm (8x6in) ■ Mediumweight iron-on interfacing: 19x15cm (8x6in) ■ Stranded cotton in black and mint green ■ Cotton cord: 3mmx90cm (1/8inx36in) ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/downloads CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Bag front and back: two pieces 35x39cm (13¾x153/8in). Outer ear: four pieces using the template. Step two From the lining fabric cut: Lining front and back: two pieces 35x39cm (13¾x153/8in). Step three From the appliqué fabric cut: Nose: cut one using the template. Inner ear: cut two using the template.01 MAKING THE EAR AND…

LOUISE SCOTT-SMITH Louise Scott-Smith is a former fashion designer at Emilio Pucci, Caramel and Liberty of London and the author of two craft books. She’s hoping to change the way we think about what we wear with her cut-and-sew kits. See more on page 48. LISA COMFORT The entrepreneur behind sewing shop Sew Over It, the author, pattern designer and vlogger Lisa Comfort is passionate about sharing her love of stitching. Make her Cora Set on page 42, and discover what’s next for Sew Over It on page 56. CHRISTIANE BELLSTEDT MYERS Christiane Bellstedt Myers was brought up in rural Canada, where homespun items were a way of life. She is now based in Buckinghamshire, UK, and is the author of two craft books. Make her patchwork cushions in nautical…

THAT HANDMADE TOUCH Svetlana Sotak (£21, Lucky Spool) Add a little hand-crafted loveliness to your everyday life with Svetlana Sotak’s book of simple, artisan projects for you and your home. Get inspired by its gorgeous photography and create clutches, pouches, bags, baskets, cushions and more. You’ll learn lots of new craft skills along the way – and your home will be filled with handmade treasures in no time! www.luckyspool.com FOLK EMBROIDERED FELT BIRDS Corinne Lapierre (£9.99, Search Press) Stitch a flock of charming felt feathered friends with Corinne Lapierre’s book of 20 birds to sew. Make a swan, hen, goose, partridge, owl, dove, peacock or flamingo in soft felt and then decorate in a variety of stitches, including chain stitch, feather stitch, French knots and satin stitch, and add beads…

When it comes to supporting your growing hobby, every sewist needs reliable and durable tools for the job. Introducing: Singer’s Heavy Duty range! These extraordinary machines have high sewing speeds, extra power motors, stainless steel bedplates, and heavy duty metal frames. Features on the 4423 sewing machine (RRP £279) include 23 Built-in Stitches and an Automatic 1-Step Buttonhole, whilst the 14HD854 Overlocker (RRP £300) has a 2-3-4 Thread Capability, Colour Coded Threading System, Free Arm - and more! Visit www.singerco.co.uk to see for yourself and enter this competition at www.simplysewingmag.com See www.simplysewingmag.com  to enter today! (UK only, see competition rules on p6.)…

Our everyday bag might be an oversized (and over-filled) tote, but that just makes it all the sweeter when we can switch to something smaller, cuter and handmade! This issue's The Kimi Satchel might be mini in size, but it isn't short on stylish details and new bag-making techniques to try. You'll learn how to add a faux leather closure and matching tassel, a cross-body strap, metal hardware, topstitching and a contrast lining. With all those skills to tick off the list, it'll be as enjoyable to make as it will be to show off when it's finished!…

When working with commercial sewing patterns, you will often be instructed to ‘finish the raw edges’ before or after sewing the seams. The stitch type you choose to finish the raw edges of a garment with will affect the appearance of a seam, the garment’s overall life-span and its comfort when worn. There are many ways to finish a raw edge – pinking shears, zigzag stitching and binding are just a few – but overlocking has become a firm favourite as it provides a quick-to-sew, long-lasting and professional-looking finish. While overlockers were once the preserve of clothing factories, in the last 50 years domestic overlocking machines have become widely available and more affordable, making them appealing to home sewists. For many stitchers, however, deciding whether to purchase an overlocker in…

YOU WILL NEED ■ A dress in your size ■ Fabric, for the ruffle (see the instructions for measurements) ■ Elastic: 2cm wide (see instructions for length) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Take the measurement of your upper bust (the top of your bust taken underneath your armpits) and multiply this by 1.5 then add 3cm (1¼in). This measurement is the width of the ruffle piece. Step two Calculate how long you would like the ruffle to be and add 4cm (15/8in). This will be the length of the ruffle piece. Step three Cut one piece to the measurements you have just calculated.01 ALTERING THE DRESS Step one If your dress has sleeves, cut them off…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Red fabrics (see notes) ■ White fabrics (see notes) ■ Blue fabrics (see notes) ■ Backing fabric: 1 fat quarter (per cushion) ■ For the square cushion: 16x16in (40cm) cushion pad ■ For the rectangular cushion: 12x24in (30x60cm) cushion pad ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ We used four fabric designs in each of the three colours, so 12 designs in total. However, it is possible to make one cushion from four fat quarters: one per colour plus one for backing. ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance. FINISHED SIZE The finished square cushion will measure 40x40cm (16x16in). The rectangular cushion will measure 30x60cm (12x4in). CUTTING OUT The colours are listed only as a recommendation – you can choose to cut any of…

WAFER LIGHTBOX When it comes to fussy-cutting or adding embroidered flourishes to your finished pieces, the Wafer Lightbox is a sewist’s best friend. Its ultra light and bright design will help you with everything from tracing templates to finding exactly the right spot to fussy-cut your fabric. It comes in three different sizes (A4, A3 and A2) to suit the measurements of your projects, with cutting mats of the same sizes also available, allowing you to cut directly onto the lightbox. It also has a handy ruler along two edges, to ensure accuracy. A continuous dimmer means that the light can be adjusted for use with both paper templates and different fabrics, while smart technology also remembers your last setting in between uses. Wafer Lightbox 1, 2 and 3 Starting…

1 SOCIAL MEDIA Take a photo of your clothing label during Fashion Revolution Week and upload it to Instagram, Twitter or Facebook, tagging your favourite brand, while also asking them #whomademyclothes? 2 SHARE SKILLS Organise an event within your crafting community to mark the occasion – it could be anything from a fabric or clothes swap or upcycling session, through to a skill-sharing repair workshop. 3 ASK QUESTIONS Whether you’re buying fabric or thread, ask questions about where the items are coming from and how they were made. Don’t like the answer? Vote with your feet. 4 LOVED CLOTHES LAST From your sewing machine to garments you’ve made, servicing and repairing well-loved items is the ultimate act of rebellion, so have a mending afternoon. 5 SHARE YOUR STORY Download an…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 60x115cm (11/8ydx45in) ■ Contrast fabric: 2 fat quarters, for the face and pocket ■ Fabric scraps, for the appliqué ■ Bondaweb: 25x25cm (10x10in) ■ Bias binding: 2cmx2m (¾inx2¼yd) ■ Cotton tape: 2cmx1.5m (¾inx1¾yds) ■ 2 x black buttons ■ Erasable fabric marker ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ The size of your apron and the fabric quantity will depend on the size of your child, so measure your child first to calculate how much fabric you'll need. ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/downloads FABRICS USED ■ The main fabric is Lions Blue by Cotton & Steel. Go to www.cottonandsteelfabrics.com ■ The pocket fabric is Crowns from Cloth and Candy. Go to www.clothandcandy.com MEASURING YOUR CHILD Step one Take the following measurements…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric A: 56x30cm (22x12in), for the head, main body and outer ears ■ Fabric B: 28x23cm (11x9in), for the dress lining and inner ears ■ Fabric C: 10x10cm (4x4in), for the shoes ■ Fabric D: 28x15cm (11x6in), for the dress ■ Fabric E: 6.5x6.5cm (2.5x2.5in), for the face detail ■ Fabric F: 13x10cm (5x4in), for the collar ■ Lace trim ■ Black and pink stranded cotton ■ Small button ■ 2cm (¾in) of elastic ■ White wool: 50cm (20in) ■ 2 pom poms, cut from pom pom trim ■ Polyester toy filling ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FINISHED SIZE Approx 27cm (10½in) tall. NOTES ■ Use a 6mm (¼in) seam allowance throughout unless otherwise stated. ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/downloads CUTTING OUT Step…

PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches. HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a…