Innehållsförteckning för 60 från Simply Sewing

Autumn is on the horizon and we’re using the change in season as a perfect excuse to switch things up a little! We’re embellishing our clothes with fancy embroidery stitches and lace trim, giving our homes a modern makeover with calming painterly prints and adding new linen textures to our wardrobes. Whether it’s rejuvenating an existing garment, or sewing up something completely new – these next few months are the perfect time to unwind and enjoy some slow stitching before (dare we say it) festive me-mades start appearing on our to-sew list... Share yours using #simplysewingmag WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

SASHIKO INSPIRED Hand-stitched details are one of the prettiest ways to give your projects a truly bespoke, one-of-a-kind look – and the fabrics from Rico’s Jardin Japonais collection are just calling out for customisation! The geometric cotton prints, inspired by Japanese sashiko embroidery, can be easily personalised with stitching for a unique-to-you piece. www.rico-design.de FREE AND EASY Sew House 7's Free-Range Slacks pattern is so called because of how free you’ll feel when you wear them; designed for drapey linen fabrics, and with a loose, cropped silhouette, comfy elasticated waist and pockets, they're the ultimate in easy chic. Find the pattern at www.sewhouse7.com PRETTY PLANNER How do you plan your projects? When we’re not collecting inspiration on social media, we’re filling our sketchpad with illustrations, photos, swatches...and cute stickers from…

1. Yes, we know it’s not quite time for all things festive, but we couldn’t resist snapping up these embroidered decorations, all ready to create our boldest, brightest tree yet! www.oliverbonas.com 2. We want a whole alphabet of these stunning letter brooches by Hattie McGill, which are entirely hand-embroidered in the traditional technique of goldwork. £15 each, www.hattiemcgill.etsy.com 3. When we’re having a busy week but still want to squeeze in some sewing time, what’s a crafter to do? We’re fans of embroidery kits for a creative fix, like these from www.woolwarehouse.co.uk…

To support you on your sewing journey, every sewist knows you need a machine that’s going to grow with you - and encourage you to take your hobby to the next level. Whether it’s dressmaking, home sewing, or quilting, the Janome M200 QDC will last you a lifetime. With more functions than a regular machine, the Janome ‘M Series’ have an impressive range of quality tools and accessories - such as this extended table, which you’ll find super-handy for quilting, or sewing with bulky fabric. Supporting you as you learn with 200 built-in stitches (including an alphabet and buttonholes), and an auto de clutch bobbin winder (easy-peasy!) you’ll be stitching your way to a handmade wardrobe in no time at all. Find out more at www.janome.co.uk, and enter our competition…

Ever looked at a sewing pattern adjustment tutorial and felt the fear? Our Technical Editor Roisin McKenna explains how to do a full bust adjustment in simple terms. YOU WILL NEED ■ Calico or other inexpensive fabric (see notes) ■ Pattern paper ■ Pattern master or ruler ■ Paper scissors ■ Coloured fineliners ■ Scotch magic tape ■ Mechanical pencil or sharp pencil ■ Tracing wheel (optional) NOTES ■ These instructions are for any bodice with an armhole dart or side seam dart. Although the principal of bust adjustments are the same, if your dart is in a different position, your bodice has princess seams, no darts or a combination of darts then the process will be slightly different. ■ We recommend making at least two samples throughout this process.…

One of my favourite places in the world is India, and I’m so excited to be planning a trip to Mumbai and Dehli for 2020. (I might be photographing some new patterns whilst I’m there as well!). I love the rich colours of India – bright pinks, burnt oranges and warm reds – and I’m feeling so inspired to add these sumptuous shades to my handmade autumn wardrobe. This year, black is banished from my sewing room!…

Debbie says: “Adding a trim to the hem is a quick and simple way to revamp plain tees - I've used lace, but a pom pom or tassel trim would work well, too.” YOU WILL NEED ■ An oversized T-shirt ■ Lace trim: 2m (2¼yd) (see notes) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES You will need enough lace trim to fit around the bottom of the T-shirt. MATERIALS USED We used embroidered flower edge trim in black from Sew Crafty Online. www.sewcraftyonline.co.uk ADDING THE TRIM Step one Cut the bottom off the T-shirt – we made ours so it will sit on the natural waistline but you can cut yours to any length you like. You might like to maintain the original length of the T-shirt. Step two…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Non-stretch velvet fabric: 50cm (20in) ■ Quilting cotton: 50cm (20in), for the lining ■ Fusible stiff interfacing: 50cm (20in) ■ 2 x Chicago screws: 2mm deep shaft, 1cm (3/8in) across ■ One magnetic popper clasp ■ Bradawl ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Outer: Dark green cotton velvet. Lining: Kona Solids by Robert Kaufman in Bellini. NOTE Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. MAKING THE STRAP PATTERN Step one Make a pattern that is 52x11cm (41x43/8in). At one short end, evenly reduce the width to 7cm (2¾in). Use a ruler to connect this shorter edge to the other 11cm (43/8in) edge. On the short end write 'cut on fold'. CUTTING OUT Step one From the velvet fabric cut: Strap: Cut…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Jersey fabric: 1.75x115cm (1¾ydx45in) ■ Elastic tape: 3cm (1¼in) x your waist measurement ■ Top and trousers or jeans, to use as a template ■ Tailor’s chalk ■ Ruler or pattern master ■ Pattern paper ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED Printed unicorn jersey from www.stoffstil.co.uk NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ We recommend using a stretch stitch to sew the seams. If you don’t have a specialist stretch stitch use a narrow width zigzag stitch which will give the stitch a little stretch. ■ You will need more fabric if you would like the shorts or top to be longer, or if you are making the pyjamas larger than a UK size 16. TO MAKE THE…

From the glitz and glamour of the silver screen to the regal realms of the monarchy, here are some of the most memorable Hand & Lock commissions. • 1953: Marilyn Monroe and Jane Russells' dresses in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. Embroidered by S. Lock Ltd. • 1988: Gieves & Hawkes Jacket for Michael Jackson. Goldwork embroidered by M. Hand & Co. • 1989: Elvis Dress worn by Diana, Princess of Wales. Designed by Catherine Walker, embroidered by S.Lock Ltd. • 2007: Kate Moss Swarovski Flapper Dress. Designed and made by Hand & Lock. • 2012: Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Coat of Arms displayed on a barge. Designed and made by Hand & Lock. • 2012: An embroidered jacket for Brian May, worn at the London Olympics. Designed and made by Hand &…

1 GATHER ‘N’ SEW Whatever your project we have a wonderful selection of gorgeous dressmaking and patchwork fabrics, sewing supplies and workshops. gathernsew.co.uk 2 BECKFORD SILK Printed silk crepe-de-chine £29.50p/m. Futurist. Inspired by paintings from an artistic movement in Italy in the early 20th century. This geometric print in Autumn colours will be a great addition to any wardrobe. Printed at Beckford Silk in Gloucestershire, Silk retailers in the UK since 1975. beckfordsilk.co.uk 3 JUST FABRICS Cowley Stripe is a cotton fabric in a lovely natural colour with a soft red stripe. It is double width so the stripe can run horizontally or vertically. justfabrics.co.uk 4 FABRIC HQ Firelight by Cotton & Steel. Fabric HQ stocks a wide range of fabric and haberdashery supplies as well…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

"Selecting a favourite sewn creation feels very much like having to pick a favourite child. I am also incredibly fickle and fall in and out of love with garments on a whim, but if I had to pick it would probably have to go to the blindfold-print shirt I made towards the end of last year. It is an entirely emotional choice, as this is neither the most complicated, nor the most accomplished thing I have ever sewn. It is, however, the garment I wore to cheer on my Sewing Bee buddies at the final, and then subsequently celebrated in at the wrap party. As such it is associated with some excellent, if not slightly hazy, memories. It also scores highly having been made in an original Ben Moore Designs…

...saves nine. That's the saying, right? Never before has this seemed such a relevant phrase, as I unpick a toile I'm working on – that'll teach me for trying to sew late at night! Getting the right fit can be challenging (read more about sewing for curves on p64), but we always recommend you sew a toile (test sample) before cutting into your favourite fabric. I use old bedsheets for mine! If you're after a quicker finish, we've got plenty of weekend-friendly makes such as our patternless skirt (p56) lace-trimmed tee (p55) and patternless PJs (p68) that'll rival your kid's favourite bedwear! Until next time...…

We wouldn’t get very far without our sewing tools; from the smallest thread snips to our sewing machine (and, yes, we’ll admit it: our seam ripper), we couldn’t sew a stitch without these essentials. And now there’s another hero product we won’t be without – Foxglove & Field’s pattern weights. They might be small, but, weighing 130g each, your pattern will be held firmly in place with these little helpers (and they'll look good on your cutting table!). So, how did founder Louise come up with the idea? Surprisingly, inspiration didn’t strike in her sewing room, but while driving on the M62 (west of Goole, to be precise) on a road trip with her husband. “We were talking about sewing weights. I felt there was a gap in the market…

10-13 OCTOBER 2019 Knitting & Stitching Show. Alexandra Palace. A four-day extravaganza of all things crafty, with demos, workshops and shopping. www. theknittingandstitchingshow.com 19 OCTOBER 2019-26 JANUARY 2020 Pioneers: William Morris and the Bauhaus. William Morris Gallery, London. Discover the link between English Arts and Crafts and the Bauhaus in Germany. www.wmgallery.org.uk 26 OCTOBER 2019 Black Girls Stitch Up with Kre8ive Shack. Village Haberdashery, London. A beginner’s embroidery workshop by Shikira Alleyne-Samuel that's all about embracing Afro hair. www.thevillagehaberdashery.co.uk 13 NOVEMBER 2019 Make The Costermonger bag. Merchant & Mills, Rye. Learn how to sew Merchant & Mills' Costermonger backpack, with notions and fabric included. www.merchantandmills.com…

DOOR STOP We'll take any excuse to fill our home with beautiful fabrics and prints – and that includes everyday essentials like this door stop! Made by creating a simple cube shape that's filled with rice or beans, we'll be gifting one of these not-so-boring basics at every housewarming from now on. PATCHWORK POUFFE Give florals a modern twist with this on-trend geometric patchwork pouffe, made from half-square triangles; we've used a crisp white plain for contrast, but pick out a colour from your chosen print if you like things bright. CIRCLE CUSHION Fancy updating your space without spending lots of time and money on a total refresh? Just add a few new cushions – all handmade, of course. This circle design has quilted lines and a centre button for…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Men's trousers ■ 2 x eyelets/rivets ■ Bias tape: 1.5m (1¾yd) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit SUGGESTED FABRICS Use a lightweight pair of men’s trousers in twill, linen, cotton, or lightweight denim. NOTE When selecting trousers to refashion, the garment will need to have a hip measurement that is at least 8-10cm (3-4in) larger than your own. Alternatively, additional panels can be added at the side seams during the making process to accommodate your hips if the garment is not wide enough. Designer Portia says: "The dungaree dress looks set to stay for some time yet. Its popularity shows no signs of abating. Here we show you how to refashion one from a pair of men's trousers!" CUTTING OUT Step one Carefully cut up…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Quilting cotton: 20x25cm (8x10in) ■ Contrasting quilting cotton: 30x20cm (12x8in) ■ Linen fabric: 20x25cm (8x10in) ■ Stranded cotton in complementary shades ■ Embroidery hoop ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads ■ Ladder stitch takes some practice to keep the tension even, but it's okay if the stitches look a little wonky and sketch-like. WORKING LADDER STITCH Step one Work from top to bottom on two parallel lines. Come up on the left side and go down on the right, coming up just to the left of the right line. Go back down on the right line, just below the first stitch, and come up on the left…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 1mx150cm (11/8ydx59in) ■ Elastic: 3cm (1¼in) wide (see notes) ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit FABRIC USED Cotton chambray from www. samanthaclaridgestudio.com NOTES ■ Use a 1.5cm (5/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ You will need elastic that is equal to your waist measurement. ■ These instructions make a skirt measuring approx 146cm, which is suitable for sizes up to a UK 24. If you’d like to make a larger skirt you will need extra fabric. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut a rectangle measuring the width of your fabric and 60cm (24in) in length. You can alter the length depending on your preference. Step two Cut this in half lengthways so you have a front and a back piece for the skirt…

As women, we all know dress sizes can be a contentious issue. Whether it’s high street brands' measurements differing wildly from shop to shop, or someone passing judgement on another person’s shape, shopping and even the very act of dressing ourselves can be an incredibly frustrating and less-than-positive experience at times. It’s one of the reasons many of us decide to make our own garments, isn’t it? To take the control back, be creative and make ourselves feel good with clothes that fit us well right here, right now. But here’s the thing: when it comes to sizing and measurements in sewing patterns, there is no one-size-fits-all solution here either. There are still limitations. As sewists with a fuller figure will already be aware, this can either mean a whole…

YOU WILL NEED ■ White cotton sheeting: 2.5mx140m (2¾ydx55in) ■ Lining fabric: 2.1mx140cm (83x55in) ■ Wadding: 2.1mx140cm (83x55in) ■ 1 large bowl, to wet the fabric ■ 2 buckets, for the dye baths ■ Elastic bands ■ Washing pegs ■ Lolly sticks ■ A piece of plastic piping ■ Orange stranded cotton ■ Embroidery needle ■ Clear plastic template measuring 18x18cm, including 1cm (3/8in) seam allowances ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ The amount of fabric you need depends on the size of the quilt you are making. A single duvet cover measures 135x200cm (approx 53x78in). ■ Dylon dye in Bahama Blue and Ocean Blue from Hobby Craft www.hobbycraft.co.uk ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. TIE DYE TECHNIQUES Step one Mix up the…

YOU WILL NEED Makes one crate and two of each vegetable: ■ Cotton in a natural, unbleached colour: 40x80cm (16x32in) ■ Mid-green cotton fabric: 35x60cm (14x24in) ■ Light mint-green cotton fabric: 30x30cm (12x12in) ■ White cotton 5x30cm (2x12in) ■ Orange cotton: 20x35cm (8x14in) ■ Reddish brown cotton: 30x30cm (12x12in) ■ Foam interfacing: 40x60cm (16x24in) ■ Stranded cotton in burgundy and off-white ■ Small amount of toy stuffing ■ Fabric clips ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm (3/8in) seam allowance unless otherwise stated. ■ Download the templates at www. simplysewingmag.com/downloads ■ Fabric clips will be useful when working with foam interfacing. CUTTING OUT Step one From the natural cotton cut: Crate outer and lining: two 30.5x36cm (12x143/8in). Step two From the foam interfacing cut: Crate…

LORNA SLESSOR Lorna is a Bristol-based modern quilter who splits her time between selfish sewing and working as Production Editor at Love Patchwork & Quilting magazine (www.lovepatchworkandquilting.com).Try her modern home makes on page 18. MOLLIE JOHANSON Mollie Johanson is a craft author, illlustrator, stitcher and Etsy seller who lives near Chicago and is happiest with a cup of coffee in one hand and her embroidery in the other. See more of her work at www.molliejohanson.com and on page 51. DELIA RANDALL Delia is a maker and a mum of three who loves to sew and make fun things in her little house nestled between the forest and the sea in Washington state, USA. Find her skirt pattern on page 44 and browse more of her work at www.deliacreates.com LAURA STRUTT…

Production Editor Michelle’s jacket pattern picks. IN THE FOLDS’ FLYNN The Flynn Jacket is great for layering and an achievable first outerwear pattern to try for confident beginners looking to boost their skills. I love its loose-fit silhouette, bias-bound seams – and that it has pockets! Find the pattern and more at shop.inthefolds.com CASHMERETTE’S CHILTON TRENCH Sew a classic you’ll wear for years to come with Cashmerette’s timeless trench pattern. Fully lined and with sophisticated details such as a two-part collar, cape, epaulettes and double topstitching, it’s the ultimate curve-friendly trench coat. www. cashmerette.com MERCHANT & MILLS OTTOLINE Workwear jackets have been all over the high street this year, and the boxy shape of this one is so easy to style. It’s great for honing your topstitching skills, too –…

SIMPLE SHAPES STUNNING QUILTS Stuart Hillard (£22.85, Pavilion Books) GBSB series 1’s Stuart Hillard shows you how the simplest of shapes can make stunning quilts with this book’s 100 patchwork designs to sew. It includes five skills-building chapters to work your way through: One-Patch Quilts – made using one repeated shape – Strips and Squares, Triangles, Curves, and Foundation Piecing. www.pavilionbooks.com MODERN EMBROIDERY Laura Strutt (£12.99, CICO Books) Creating a piece of art with nothing more than fabric, threads and an embroidery hoop feels like magic, doesn’t it? And Laura Strutt’s new book has 35 on-trend designs for you to conjure up, including brooches and patches, a geometric travel card wallet, a table mat and coaster set, a statement necklace and more. Psst! Make embroidered napkins from the book on…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Cotton napkins ■ Stranded cotton in two leaf shades and two contrast shades ■ Embroidery hoop: 11.5cm (4½in) ■ Embroidery needle ■ Embroidery scissors ■ Thread conditioner (optional) ■ Basic sewing kit FINISHED MEASUREMENTS ■ Motif measures approx 10x10cm (4x4in). NOTES ■ These designs can be worked on store-bought napkins or you could make your own napkins from fabric. ■ Keeping the back of the work as neat as the front will help to give a professional finish. ■ Download the templates from www.simplysewingmag.com/ downloads ■ Stitch using six strands of stranded cotton. WORKING BACKSTITCH Bring the needle up and then back down one stitch length behind this. Bring it up again one stitch length in front of the point at which it first emerged. Repeat…

1 Add a kangaroo pocket, patch pocket or inseam pockets. You may be able to use patch pockets and/or pocket bags from the original garment. 2 Try alternative strap widths and fastenings such as clips or buttons. 3 Use lightweight fabrics for summer. Adapt for winter by using a garment made from tweed, wool, cord or heavier denim and wear with thick tights. 4 Remove the buttons and add new contrasting or matching ones. Make sure that the new buttons are the right size for the original buttonholes.…

“Rich colours are my go-to in autumn – reds, ochres and mustards.” Do you make your own clothes? I’ve loved dressmaking since I was a little girl, and in 2011 made it my mission to spread the love of sewing to as many people as I can, setting up my fabric and pattern business, Sew Over It. With our mix of modern and vintage-inspired patterns and online sewing classes, we love sharing the joys of dressmaking and creating your own unique wardrobe. Fellow sewers know that summer, with holidays, picnics in the park and trips to the beach, provides endless opportunities for making and wearing fun, stylish summery pieces. When September hits, the sun starts to fade and the temperature begins to drop, it can be easy to lose your…

What's more captivating than a piece of embroidered art? A whole wall covered in them, of course. From beautiful botanicals to bold affirmations, the work of self-taught artist Sarah K. Benning is lush, colourful and shockingly contemporary. Embroidered Life by Sara Barnes (www. brwnpaperbag.com) is the first book to focus exclusively on this innovative artist, one of the driving forces behind the current embroidery renaissance. This eye-catching book will literally capture your imagination (we can't put it down). This image is from Embroidered Life: The Art of Sarah K. Benning by Sara Barnes, a stunning art tome published by Chronicle Books, £17.99. www.abrams andchronicle.co.uk…

Whether it's personalising a scarf with blanket stitch blooms, adding sashiko clouds to a kid's skirt or stitching delicate daisies around the neckline of a plain blouse – the possibilities that embroidery can add to your me-made wardrobe are endless. Cue our handy Ultimate Guide to Embroidery booklet, a handbag-friendly keepsake with step-by-step walkthroughs to help you master 16 essential stitches. Keep it on your sewing desk (or next to your favourite armchair) for impromptu slow stitching. Don't forget your needle!…

AARONICA COLE  www.theneedledndthebelle.com “I always have to grade patterns,” explains Aaronica Cole. "My top is about three sizes smaller than my bottom. I normally have to either do a swayback or full booty adjustment as well as grade out from my waist to hips… it really just depends on the pattern. Initially I was super-confused by the process and totally avoided making any adjustments. But the beauty of making your own clothes is that they’re made to fit your body. So I took the time out to learn what adjustments would work for my body. And I took lots of muslin fabrics and figured it out.” AMANDA BROWN  www.cottonontosewing.com Amanda is an independent sewing tutor based in the South West, she teaches workshops at Eternal Maker, Ardington School of Crafts,…

You would be hard-pushed to find many things that the Queen, Miss World and Kanye West have in common, but one thing that unites them all is the fine work of British embroidery house, Hand & Lock. The brand have been granted a Royal Warrant of Appointment by Queen Elizabeth II for their continued relationship with many royal households, working on an array of military uniforms and formal regalia. They are also responsible for creating the sash worn by Miss World (and not forgetting Mr World, too), and, most recently, have been working with Kanye West’s fashion brand, Yeezy. From the fine goldwork adorning military occasionwear through to the iron-on patches emblazoned on the backs of denim jackets of many Millennials, one of the most impressive things about this embroidery…

MARKING PEN Transfer markings to your fabric, then wash them out when finished. MARKING PENCIL Choose a colour that shows up on your fabric. SEAM RIPPER This sharp blade cuts through and unpicks stitches. TAPE MEASURE A flexible fabric tape measure will take accurate measurements. PINS Stainless steel pins with sharp points are best. FABRIC CLIPS Use these instead of pins when sewing thicker fabrics. TAILOR’S CHALKSX Chalk temporarily marks fabric and can be easily brushed away. THIMBLE Wear to protect your fingers when handstitching. PINKING SHEARS These cut a zigzag edge on fabric to neaten. SHEARS Keep a pair of sharp shears just for cutting out your fabric. SMALL SCISSORS Use for snipping threads and cutting notches. HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…