Innehållsförteckning för 89 från Simply Sewing

Give your wardrobe a boost ahead of the new year with the inspiring projects included in this issue. Sew the Jenna Dress from By Hand London and style it with the smart-casual Fleur Blazer; make Portia Lawrie’s glamorous patternless dress on page 56 and spend an afternoon stitching a wrap skirt from Sew Over It on page 67. If you’ve left your Christmas crafting to the last minute, you’ll find plenty of festive ideas inside, too. Sew sweet Christmas jumpers to hang on your tree, a cute snowman plushie for a little one, and embellish a jumper with a fun sweets stitch project on page 87. WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

NEW ESSENTIAL Introducing Atelier Brunette’s debut pattern – Le Sweat! This seasonal design features an elegant boat collar and can be made with three-quarter or raglan sleeves. You can also use stretch or woven fabric, so you can make a comfy sweatshirt or a smart-casual top in a silky viscose. Turn to page 42 to read our Pattern Review! atelierbrunette.com WASTE-NOT If you’re intending to make your sewing more sustainable in the new year, get started with Birgitta Helmersson’s new zero-waste pattern. The ZW Block Pant can be used to make wide-leg trousers and a skirt, both with pockets and an elasticated waist. birgittahelmersson.com WINDS OF CHANGE There’s no escaping the changing seasons and the weather that comes with it. Tilda’s new collection, Windy Days, is inspired by autumn walks…

SOCIAL SEWING SATURDAYS Pattern company The Avid Seamstress is hosting Social Sewing Saturdays! Take along your current projects and spend a day with like-minded makers. You’ll get to use the studio equipment – including overlockers and cutting tables – as well as eating cake and drinking tea! theavidseamstress.co.uk SEWING MACHINE BUYER GUIDE, 18 DECEMBER If you’re looking to treat yourself to a brand-new machine in the new year, this free workshop led by O’Lisa J Designs is a must! You’ll learn all about the different types of machines and overlockers available for a range of projects. Book a ticket for the ‘Free Sewing Informational Workshop’ at eventbrite.co.uk.…

Opt for a fun, feminine dress with a square neckline and tie sleeves, or add a classic empire-line dress with a Peter-Pan collar to your wardrobe with the versatile Jenna Dress set. YOU WILL NEED ■ Dress A, main fabric Sizes 6–12: 2mx115cm Sizes 14–20: 2.4mx115cm Sizes 22–24: 2.7mx115cm Sizes 6–10: 1.8mx150cm Sizes 12–16: 2mx150cm Sizes 18–24: 2.1mx150cm ■ Dress B, main fabric Sizes 6–12: 2.4mx115cm Sizes 14–24: 3.5mx115cm Sizes 6–12: 2.2mx150cm Sizes 14–20: 2.5mx150cm Sizes 22–24: 2.75mx150cm ■ Lining: Sizes 6–12: 50x115cm Sizes 14–24: 1mx115cm Sizes 6–12: 50x150cm Sizes 14–24: 1mx150cm ■ Lightweight iron-on interfacing: 50x90cm ■ Invisible zip: 22in ■ Invisible zip foot NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Skirt: light- to medium-weight woven fabric with body such as crepe, drape silks, rayons, silk noil,…

1 LADY GREY JACKET This gorgeous retro-inspired design from Colette (via Seamwork) creates a short wrap coat with princess seams, an oversized collar, bracelet-length sleeves and a full hem. The coat is fully lined and closes with internal and external buttons, as well as a wide self-fabric tie belt. seamwork.com 2 PAULINE DRESS This design from Closet Core features several different options, allowing you to mix and match sleeve and skirt styles to create the dress of your dreams. Choose from a chic sleeveless sheath with an above-knee straight skirt, or a striking puff sleeve tiered frock in two lengths, each with the option of being lined or unlined. closetcorepatterns.com 3 TALLY BUSTIER TOP The fashion world is full of designs inspired by the 1990s right now, and this lined…

SCENTED EYE MASK Leave your troubles at the door and take a moment for yourself with this scented eye mask. Ours is filled with lavender, but choose whichever scent you find most comforting. You could also make yours in an indulgent silk, or a soft brushed cotton that’s gentle on your skin. CUSHION There’s no denying that scatter cushions can quite easily get a little out of hand... but if you’ve gone to the effort of making them then they deserve pride of place on your bed for you to see and appreciate every day. We love the ruffle trim on this design to add some texture and style. BED THROW This decorative throw adds a burst of personality, print and colour to your room. You could use contrasting colours…

YOU WILL NEED Stretchvelvetfabric1.5mx150cm Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated. ■ We used a stretch velvet in Steel Blue from minerva.com. TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS Take the following measurements: ■ Shoulder to shoulder (A) ■ Bust ÷ 2 (+5cm) (B) ■ Hip ÷ 2 (+5cm) (C) ■ Desired length from neck to hem (+2cm) (D) CUTTING OUT Step one Cut two rectangles where the length is equivalent to D and the width is roughly 1.5xC. Step two Lay the rectangles right side (RS) together. Pin together or weigh down. We will turn these rectangles into a trapeze shape using the measurements you’ve taken. Step three Mark a line down the centre. Along the top edge and centred on this line, mark your…

Amanda Adams (@bimbleandpimble) started #bpSewvember as a way of building her own online sewing community. As the likes, shares and comments grew, it manifested into something much bigger. Now, every November, there are a set of prompts devised by Amanda to encourage sewists to create and share their makes. Amanda has a unique take on how social media impacts her crafting. “I sometimes use Instagram as an accountability tool for my sewing,” she reveals. “A few years back I wanted to make jeans but felt a bit overwhelmed by the process. I challenged myself to sewing 30 minutes a day for a month to make my jeans and shared a daily update. This was super motivating and I ended up with a rad pair of jeans at the end!”. As…

Monica Tetteh (@thatssewmonica) has a natural flair for crafting, but it wasn’t until the 10-year anniversary of her mother’s death that she decided to take up sewing to feel a connection with her. After taking part in many mainstream challenges, in 2017, Monica launched her very own, #SewYourView, and this one is all about personal expression and creativity. “This challenge highlights a particular pattern and everyone sews their own view of it. It is great to see how everyone interprets the pattern,” explains Monica. So it could be a structured blazer, but the material, the embellishments and the final finesse is entirely up to you. Look at the dedicated Instagram feed (@sewyourview) to see how one pattern can be interpreted in many different ways and adapted to everyone’s individual styles.…

YOU WILL NEED Fabric – skirt A (calf length) Sizes 6–14: 3mx115cm Sizes 16–20: 3.2mx115cm Sizes 18–24: 3.2mx115cm Sizes 26–30: 3.8mx115cm Sizes 6–8: 2.5mx140cm Sizes 10–12: 2.7mx140cm Sizes 14–20: 2.9mx140cm Sizes 18–30: 3mx140cm  Fabric – skirt B (knee length) Sizes614: 2.3mx115cm Sizes 16–20: 2.5mx115cm Sizes 18–24: 2.7mx115cm Sizes 26–30: 3mx115cm Sizes 18–24: 2.5mx140cm Sizes 26–30: 2.8mx140cm Lightweight iron-on interfacing: 150x35cm Matching thread NOTES ■ Seam allowances are 1.5cm. ■ Download the pattern from gathered.how/wrapskirt. ■ Please direct any pattern questions to simplysewing@immediate.co.uk. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Lightweight cotton, cotton lawn or viscose. CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric, cut: Front Skirt (A): one pair Back Skirt (B): one on fold Waistband Section A (C): one Waistband Section B (D): one Waist Ties (Long, E): one Waist Ties (Short,…

YOU WILL NEED Mainfabric50x100cm Black yarn, for the pom-poms Polyester fibrefill Pom-pom maker Matching thread Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED ■ The fabric used is from the White Christmas collection by Zen Chic for Moda Fabrics. Mistletoe, White. Ref: 1656 11M. For stockists, visit modafabrics.com. NOTES ■ Use a 1cm seam allowance. ■ Download the template from gathered.how/ss-templates. CUTTING OUT Step one Download, print and cut out the template for the cushion front/back. Step two From the main fabric cut: Cushion Front/Back: two using the template MAKING THE CUSHION Step one Place the Cushion Front and Back pieces right sides (RS) together and pin. Step two Sew together all the way around, but leave a 10cm gap along the centre of one edge. This will be used to turn…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

If there’s one thing you should know about me, it’s that I can’t resist a good floral print. Picture this: you’re in a charity shop browsing the fabric aisle (that’s what I call it, at least. It’s where they keep bed sheets, blankets and fabric remnants). You stumble upon a massive bag of fabric, all the same print, for only $3.99. After a quick inspection, you fall in love with the colour and pattern, scoop it up, and head to the till. That’s the origin story of this piece. Fast forward an hour– the fabric is washed, and I go straight to drafting out a pattern for the top and shorts. Self-drafting is a skill I had to pick up early in my sewing journey. Shop-bought patterns always confused me,…

Need a bit of encouragement for your next project? Then maybe it’s time to try a sewing challenge! We’ve rounded up some of our favourites on page 60 and there’s something to inspire every sewist. If your making is still focused on all things festive, get stuck in to this issue’s mini jumper tree decorations on page 70, or go for the real thing with an embroidered Christmas jumper on page 87. And if you’re in the market for something a little more glamorous, try our patternless velvet dress on page 56. Share your makes with us at #simplysewingmag too!…

Cosy knits Stay warm this winter with these designs, says Production Editor Emily Freer I AM RAINBOW, I AM PATTERNS This brand-new pattern offers a total of 96 variations! Choose from different lengths, pocket styles and necklines, and make it as an over-head one piece or zip-up jacket. We love the below-knee hoodie version for cosy days at home. Available in EU sizes 34–52, iampatterns.fr. SUNDAY SWEATSHIRT, YOU MADE MY DAY PATTERNS This comfy sweatshirt is not your typical wardrobe basic. Featuring options for ruffled or puffed and pleated sleeves, a back slit and a ruffle neckline, you can make a dress, sweatshirt or T-shirt as fancy as you like with this pattern. Available in UK sizes 6–22, you-made-my-day.com. HUG HOODIE, MADEIT PATTERNS This is another one to break the…

STYLE HACKING Karoline Dahrling Hughes ($29.95, C&T Publishing) Learn how to create an endless variety of garments using five basic pieces from your own wardrobe. In this new book (due January 2022) you’ll use a top, T-shirt, jumper, trousers and leggings as templates to create over 30 different new pieces of clothing. This book is such a useful resource and saves you time and effort with no sizing, measuring or patterns needed! SEWING FOR BEGINNERS Annabel Wrigley ($7.95, C&T Publishing) This pocket guide to the basics of sewing is the perfect starting place if you’re a beginner. From patterns and fabrics to tools and techniques, fabric designer and textile artist Annabel covers it all in this handy book that’s conveniently sized for carrying to workshops or retreats. If you’ve got…

WEAR IT WITH GLAMOROUS…

1 Give a flash of animal print with this Grey and Gold Animal rayon from Mistral. littlemisssewnsew.co.uk 2 Add a subtle hint of check with this Meadow sateen from Cassidy Demkov’s Wildflower collection for Cloud 9 Fabrics. freds-haberdashery.co.uk 3 Go dotty with this lightweight Swiss dot cotton in blush and turquoise from Higgs & Higgs. higgsandhiggs.com 4 We love the bold floral design of Art Gallery Fabrics’Tropic Like It’s Hot rayon. lamazifabrics.com 5 Add an extra dimension to your lining with this quilted Candy Shapes cotton from Tillisy. frumble.co.uk…

Name: Alice Irvine Instagram: @the.polka.dot.palace Website: aliceinthepolkadotpalace.com Pattern: LE Sweat sweatshirt pattern, Atelier Brunette (atelierbrunette.com) Fabric: Néroli Night French terry fabric, Atelier Brunette (atelierbrunette.com) I love quirky tailoring but it means I have a big basics-shaped gap in my wardrobe! This classic sweater with a twist is exactly what I need. Bulky jumpers don’t really suit me, but the wide open neck of the Atelier Brunette LE Sweat design creates a subtly different silhouette that I find really flattering and more in keeping with my style. STATEMENT NECKLINE I’ve made a few simple jumpers before and LE Sweat features similar design elements such as ribbed cuffs and a slouchy fit, but the construction is different from anything I’ve seen before. The front of the jumper and the sleeves are all…

PSST: Turn the page for fabric and styling inspiration. Share your Fleur Blazer with us using #simplysewingm;ag. Elevate any outfit by topping it off with the Fleur Blazer. Whether you’re out for drinks with friends, heading to the office or dressing up for a special occasion, this design ties together any outfit and instantly makes you look dressed up. Sew this in a wool fabric for winter, an indulgent velvet for something special, or choose a classic cord for a retro feel. A silky lining fabric will make it extra comfy and warm but it’s also an opportunity to have fun with a bold print to show off your style. Find our top lining tips on page 24. YOU WILL NEED For all versions: Mainfabric24mx140cm Lining fabric: 1.4mx140cm Iron-on…

Chances are, if you’ve been a sewist for a while now, you’ve dabbled in a sewing challenge or two. And if you haven’t, perhaps now’s the time for a project. These making tasks can be absolutely anything – sometimes they’re tied to being more sustainable, sparking your creativity or simply sharing achievements more online. No matter what your style, there’s a sewing challenge to suit you. THE PSYCHOLOGY “NOW YOU CAN SEE CREATIONS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD, ALL FROM YOUR SOFA." Goal setting is a way of life, whether it’s working towards a promotion or securing a virtual trophy for a 5k jog on your running app. As humans, we love setting ourselves a task and completing it (think about the satisfaction you get from a ticked off to-do…

With a job as an actor, Elle Banstead-Salim admits that finding the time to participate in challenges can sometimes be, well, a challenge, but she has some stellar advice. “Everyone has their own pace and busy lives so I don’t think it matters how many challenges you do. I dip in and out as and when I have time and can afford new fabric.” Elle explains that her challenge, #RecyclingRemnants, was launched on a whim. “I thought up the challenge and within 30 minutes had posted about it on Instagram (@elleandthestitches) and there was no turning back!”. Within weeks, there were 12 sewing brands sponsoring the challenge, offering up sewing vouchers and fabulous fabric bundles as prizes for participants. The task is simple – use your remnants and recycle them…

YOU WILL NEED Mainfabric40x60cm Contrast fabric: 30x60cm Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm seam allowance. CUTTING OUT Step one Cut the main fabric to 36x55cm Step two From the contrast fabric cut: Waistband and Ties: five strips, 6x56cm each Skirt Trim: 20x56cm MAKING THE APRON SKIRT Step one Turn the short edges of the main fabric under by 5mm then 5mm again and press. Stitch into place to hem. Step two Fold in half widthways to find the centre and then mark the quarter points. Step three Make a box pleat 1cm wide at the quarter points. Pin, press and sew. Step four Pin the Skirt Trim to the bottom of the main piece, right sides (RS) together. Sew into place. Press the seams open then downwards.…

YOU WILL NEED A jumper that fits you Stranded cotton (see notes) Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy Scissors Embroidery Hoop: 12.5cm Embroidery Needle: size 7 Container of water Large absorbent towel Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy available at cottonpatch.co.uk. ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates. ■ Stranded cotton shades are: DMC blanc, 310, 472, 742, 3705, and 3890. EMBROIDERING THE JUMPER Step one Trace or print the sweets templates on Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy. Cut out each sweet design and arrange them around the collar of your jumper. Find a layout that you like and that suits the neckline. You may also want to make a few extra pattern pieces to fill in the design. Take a photo of the layout so you can reference it as you go along.01…

ONCE YOU HAVE FINISHED stitching your seam, it’s best to press it open on the wrong side so it lies flat. Sometimes it’s better to press it to one side to reduce bulk but the pattern instructions will tell you this. Usually the seam allowances are left as they are as they help to strengthen the seam, but sometimes they cause too much bulk so they are trimmed to half their original width. If your fabric has a tendency to fray you should neaten the raw edges after you have worked the seam. There are several ways of doing this. To machine-finish them, set your sewing machine to the zigzag stitch then stitch close to the raw edge all the way along. The zigzag must be small enough to stop…

BY HAND LONDON Our cover star is the versatile Jenna Dress set from the amazingly talented Elisalex de Castro Peake of indie sewing brand By Hand London. Their patterns are designed for dressmakers who like to ‘dress up and stand out’, and Jenna is certainly that! ALICE IRVINE Atelier Brunette has released its first pattern, and Alice Irvine has reviewed it for us this issue – find it on page 42. We love Alice’s content, especially her sewing reels – head to @the.polka.dot.palace for relatable videos that will make you smile! CHRISTINE LEECH We absolutely love the Christmas decorations Christine has made for us this month! Find the jolly little jumpers on page 70, and learn more about Christine’s crafting journey in her fascinating column piece on page 54. BRANDON…

Q I really want to make my sewing more sustainable but don’t know where to start. What are your suggestions? A This is such an important issue and something most of us are guilty of not always taking into consideration. Start with your fabric stash – is there something already there that you can use for your next project instead of going out and buying afresh? While you’re there, are there fabrics in there that you will never use? If so then sell them, gift them or donate them to charity. There are some many charities desperate for fabrics to make quilts for poorly children or clothes for those less fortunate than ourselves. Don’t throw any away scraps no matter how tiny. Use them to fill your next cushion or…

IT’S IN THE DETAILS This pattern makes use of gathers and puff sleeve details to create delicate shaping. LINED ALL OVER If made as a dress, Orchidée features a full-length lining for a luxury feel. PICK YOUR LENGTH Choose from a pretty cropped blouse with a frilled hem, or a stunning midi dress. THE ORCHIDÉE DRESS AND BLOUSE This pattern from Deer and Doe can be used to make a beautiful lined dress or a blouse, each featuring a flattering deep V-neck, gathers, bridal buttons, and statement sleeves. deer-and-doe.fr…

1 WHY ADD A LINING? There are lots of good reasons to add linings to your projects, with the most obvious being to add an extra layer to otherwise sheer fabrics. Linings can also add structure to your creations, make otherwise uncomfortable materials (such as harsh wool or scratchy sequins) easier to wear, hide unsightly seams and provide additional warmth. It also gives your makes a luxurious, tailored feel, and can help elevate your skills to the next level. 2 FULL VS PARTIAL When browsing patterns, you’ll often spot the phrases ‘fully lined’ or ‘partially lined’ in the descriptions – but what’s the difference? As you may have guessed, a fully lined garment is one in which the lining extends down to the hem and often out through the sleeves…

1 Get ready for spring with a fresh take on the look with this Néroli Off-White French terry fabric and matching Off-White ribbing. (atelierbrunette.com) 2 Keep things simple but sophisticated with this beautiful Cobalt viscose crepe fabric. (atelierbrunette.com) 3 Try making this pattern in a dobby such as this beautiful Smokey Dobby viscose for a glamorous top with side splits for nights out. (atelierbrunette.com)…

Many of my earliest memories are of things I made. Entries for the annual village Flower and Produce Show craft categories were planned weeks beforehand, and I clearly remember one seaside holiday where my nanny taught me to hand stitch a small white cotton square for the ‘Hemmed Handkerchief’ competition. She obviously taught me well as I was awarded first prize! All of my family are creative in some way, from my nanny who sewed leather sporting goods for Slazenger to my great aunt who had her own business making housecoats and nightwear. Both my mum and my dad were very nurturing with my creative streak; dad was always in the garage building things (including doubling the size of our house) and mum would be reupholstering furniture, decorating walls or…

Charity-shop-loving sewist Christine Leech has just written a series of books around zero-waste crafting, and her mission to be more eco with her hobby led her to create the #FiveShirtChallenge. “Someone clearly had a big sort out and donated some amazing brightly coloured [shirts] to my local charity shop, and turning men’s shirts into tops and dresses is easy,” says Christine. “You can create quirky garments just by switching the buttons to the back and remaking the sleeves. Once I had a made a couple of tops, I had to take it one step further and made five shirts into a tiered buffet dress.” First Christine documented her journey on her Instagram (@SewYeah), but soon the hashtag took off with others keen to try the five shirt challenge for themselves.…

In this month’s workshop, Simply Sewing’s Senior Technical Editor, Roisin, shows us how to design our own Peter Pan collars. Peter Pan collars have been design staples since the early 1900s, and with the recent return of oversized statement collars there’s never been a better time to experiment with the shape and style that best suits you! In this workshop we walk you through altering Peter Pan collar pattern pieces to match your style. If the collar on your pattern is too small – make it bigger. Too curved? Make it angular. You get the gist! Get creative and have fun experimenting... WHAT IS A PETER PAN COLLAR? Peter Pan collars are flat collars (without a stand) that follow the neckline of a garment. The collars usually have rounded corners,…

YOU WILL NEED Cotton15mx112cmfor the back, back lining, and handle Cotton: 1mx112cm for the front and front lining Solid cotton: 75x112cm for the internal divider Elastic, 5mm wide: 42cm for the internal divider Erasable fabric marker Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ The outer bag is made of two different fabrics, as is the lining. Whichever fabric you choose for the back outer should also be used for the lining back (the same for the front outer and lining front). ■ Seam allowances are 1cm. ■ Recommended fabrics: laminated cotton, quilting cotton or canvas. CUTTING OUT Step one From the exterior/lining front fabric, cut: Front Outer: 70x55cm Front Lining: 70x55cm Step two From the exterior/lining back fabric, cut: Back Outer: 70x55cm Back Lining: 70x55cm Handle: 24x5cm Long Ties: two 110x5cm…

YOU WILL NEED Plaincottonfabricformain and lining: 115x100cm Cotton fabric for piping: 115x100cm Plain cotton fabric for pockets: 112x50cm Piping cord: 5mm x 230cm Ribbon: 6mm x 32cm Button: 1x 15mm Cushion insert: 40cm Velcro black hook and loop: 2x23cm Half or piping presser foot Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 2cm unless otherwise stated. FABRICS USED ■ Blue 1698 from the Habitat range by Dashwood Studio, lovecrafts.com. ■ Jomil 16in polyester cushion insert, lovecrafts.com. ■ Kona Cotton Solids in Goldfish (474), woolwarehouse.co.uk. ■ Kona Cotton Solids in Spa Blue (847), woolwarehouse.co.uk. CUTTING OUT Step one From the plain fabric cut: Front Panel: 44x44cm Back Lower Panel: 44x34cm Back Upper Panel: 44x19cm Main Pocket Lining: 44x29cm Toy Pocket Lining: 24x29cm Step two From the printed fabric…

Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help.…

LADDER STITCH Used to join together and close two turned-under edges invisibly, such as on a dress lining or soft toy. Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the seam, then in at 2 on the opposite side and out at 3, so the stitch is 3mm (1/8in) long. Push the needle back in the opposite side at 4 and out at 5. Repeat this to close the edges. SLIP STITCH This stitch is used most often for hems where you need to stitch a turned-under edge to a flat piece of fabric using small, almost invisible stitches. Bring the needle up at 1 on the turned-under hem then back in at 2 and out at 3. Make this horizontal stitch as small as possible so it…