Innehållsförteckning för 91 från Simply Sewing

Happy New Year! We’re kicking off 2022 as we mean to go on with our Guide to Upcycling Your Wardrobe. Instead of discarding clothes we’ll be looking for imaginative ways to repurpose, mend or personalise them to suit our style. You’ll find plenty of creative ideas in our booklet included with this issue, and find inspiration for ditching fast fashion in our feature this month on page 48. You’ll also be able to sew a wardrobe staple for the year ahead with the new Safiya Dress - a shirt dress that suits any season - as well as the I AM Cinderella top. If you’re new to sewing or to the magazine, welcome! Let’s get making... WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

LET’S LOUNGE Upgrade your loungewear to something more stylish with the Agnes PJ set from Paper Theory Patterns. Agnes is all about comfort with an oversized top with loose batwing sleeves and seamfree shorts/trousers. The patch pockets on the shirt are perfect for stashing your eye mask or midnight snacks, too! Available in UK sizes 6–28, papertheorypatterns.com LOUNGE IN LUXURY Make Sew Liberated’s Talam Jumpsuit in a soft jersey for lazing around the house in, or opt for a fancy velour to add instant glamour to your wardrobe! This new design has a V-neck bodice and wrap-around waist tie and deep, functional pockets. sewliberated.com A MIXED BAG For some projects, clips are far more practical than pins – especially for winter projects when we’re working with chunkier fabrics – and…

Whether you’re ready to take a class in person or want to learn from the comfort of your home, there are so many out there. CASA CHROMATIC EXHIBITION 8 NOVEMBER 2021 – 28 MARCH 2022 Enter the house of charismatic colour from Sue Kreitzman and 33 other artists. Set in St Pancras Hospital, you’ll discover a sci-fi kitchen from space, a bathroom for merpeople and a magical craft room featuring a striking dress by Anne-Sophie Cochevelou. @theartsprojectlondon. STITCH FESTIVAL 3–6 MARCH 2022 Enjoy a wonderful day surrounded by talented and like-minded crafty people at the 2022 Stitch Festival. Taking place at London’s Business Design Centre, the show will once again be filled with fabric stalls to explore, workshops to boost your skills and textile galleries to inspire.thestitchfestival.co.uk…

Shirt dresses never go out of style, and it’s easy to see why. They’re transeasonal, easy to layer and accessories, and the perfect mix of smart and casual. This dress is designed for soft, floaty fabrics too, so it’s a dream to wear. We’ll be pairing the Safiya Dress with a chunky cardigan, tights and boots for the next few months, and then switching to some casual trainers and a denim jacket for the warmer summer months. With four variations of this pattern available, you can mix and match dress lengths and sleeve styles to best fill a gap in your wardrobe. You could further personalise this dress by using a mix of colourful contrast buttons, or make a stand-out waist tie using remnants from another project! Whichever version you…

FABRIC BOWLS Whether it’s jewellry, coins, keys or buttons and threads, these pretty little fabric bowls will come in handy around the house. We love the shape of these as something a bit different to sew and display – they’d make lovely house-warming gifts for friends or family! CUSHION Don’t worry about choosing favourites when it comes to sewing this patchwork cushion! If you love all the prints in a new collection or you have a stash of fat quarters to use up, this cushion is just what you need. The simple quilting makes this look extra cosy, too. PROJECT BAG Keep your works-in-progress neat and tidy with a stylish project bag. If you’re guilty of having more than a couple of makes on the go at the same time…

The Myrna Dress Colette Patterns This vintage-inspired dress (UK 6–26, DD cup) offers a flattering fit with shoulder and waist gathers. You’ll get the wrap look with good bust coverage. Davenport Dress Friday Pattern Company Emma recommended the lovely cuffs from this stylish pattern (sizes XS–7X). The pullover dress has a loose fit and a drawstring waist. Meredith Dress Sew Over It This stylish wrap dress (UK 6–30) is great for day or night. With its wrap front and drapey knit fabric it’s guaranteed to be a comfortable choice!…

@ninetostitch Esther shares patterns, colourful makes and heaps of inspiration on her stylish Instagram page. @korriekorrie Expect gingham, frills, matching accessories and dresses galore when you follow Korrie Riddle’s account. @mademywardrobe Lydia Higginson only wears clothes that she’s made, so this page is a must-follow if you’re aspiring for the same. @constantmaker Brighten up your feed with Lindsey King’s pretty blouses made with lovely prints, puff shoulders and big collars! @yes_i_made_it Anastasia’s me-made collection is built to suit any mood on any day. Check out her ‘Pretty Simple’ tutorials. @thecornyrainbow is a truly beautiful corner of Instagram! Nefertiti’s style and stunning fabric collection will make you smile.…

1 Make your culottes in a soft drapey viscose for a spring/summer essential. 2 For a looser, more flared pair of culottes, angle the seams out from the crotch and the waistband. 3 Sew a trim to the leg hems to add a boho vibe to your culottes. 4 Add a tie belt and stitch simple belt loops to the waistband for an added detail. 5 Add side seam or patch pockets to the culottes for a bag-free day out – everyone loves a pocket or two! 6 For a glam look, use a silky, pleated or metallic fabric for your cullotes. A plain pair would be great for daytime office wear and then you can wear your party pair out in the evenings! 7 Alter the length depending on…

Listen ■ Dressed: The History of Fashion podcast ■ Unravel: A Fashion Podcast ■ Cloth Cultures (Amber’s podcast for the British Textile Biennial) ■ Making a Splash (Amber’s podcast released last summer which investigates how the ocean inspires art, design and culture) Read ■ Don’t Touch my Hair by Emma Dabiri ■ The articles on the Fashion and Race Database set up by Kimberly Jenkins, fashionandrace.org ■ The digital humanities project, Fashioning the Self in Slavery and Freedom by Jonathan Square Accounts to follow ■ @asianfashionarchive ■ @africanstylearchive ■ @georgian_diaspora ■ @the_african_lookbook…

Learning to sew was an incredible way of laying claim to my shape and size. My mother was a sewist, as was her mother, so throughout my childhood I wore beautiful handmade clothing and consequently longed for shop-bought fashion. I wish that I could say that I learned the error of my ways early, but I’m afraid my ungrateful teenage self didn’t see the point of sewing when shopping had more immediate gratification, and it wasn’t until adulthood that I discovered the pleasures of constructing a garment from scratch. Ironically, it was shopping that brought me back to sewing. LIBERATING MYSELF OF LABELS I loved fashion – I always have – but as a plus-sized woman I struggled to find clothes in the shops that I wanted to wear. At…

Customise, refashion and reimagine your garments with the 16 projects inside the Guide to Upcycling Your Wardrobe booklet included with this issue. We’ve split this creative guide into three sections - embroidery, denim and cosy, so you can easily select projects to suit you and the season. Decorate your denims with striking embroidery, add delicate stitching to a chunky jumper, transform a neglected jumper into a stylish poncho and make your own mark on almost any garment with this handy guide to upcycling.…

The last editor’s note I wrote was in the middle of Covid-19 lockdowns (seems like a lifetime ago). Now, 12 months on I am returning from maternity leave and I couldn’t be prouder to see how the team and their talented contributors have flourished. It’s a pleasure to return to such a diverse and inspiring title. I know 2021 was a challenging year for most, but as I look forward to 2022 I know that at the heart of it all remains you - our loyal readers - who make it possible for us to showcase the work of sewists across the globe. Thank you! The sewing community really is something to be treasured.…

Get started New to sewing? Start with these designs, says Production Editor Emily Freer PIETRA PANTS, CLOSET CORE PATTERNS If you’re looking to try sewing your own trousers, the much-loved Pietra is a great place to begin. Sew tapered or flared elasticated shorts or trousers. Available in US sizes 0–32, store.closetcorepatterns.com. STEVIE TUNIC, TILLY AND THE BUTTONS This is a super-friendly design to get you into dressmaking. Stevie is a boxy fit top or dress with optional turn-up cuffs and patch pockets to add if you’re feeling confident. TATB instructions are clear and concise too, so perfect for newbies. Available in UK sizes 6–24, tillyandthebuttons.com. HEMLOCK TEE, GRAINLINE STUDIO This drop-shoulder boxy tee will be a staple in your wardrobe, and with three variations to make you can have a…

STYLE HACKING Karoline Dahrling Hughes (£19.99, C&T Publishing) In this book, Karoline shows you how to use five of your favourite garments – a tank top, T-shirt, jumper, trousers and leggings – as templates to create over 30 new styles! The beauty of using your existing clothing as templates is that there’s no measuring or pattern navigating to worry about; use items that fit you well and you’ll have a wardrobe filled with new favourites in no time! HELLO RAINBOW Momtaz Begum-Hossain (£14.99, Leaping Hare Press) Discover the confidence, community and positivity that colour can bring to all aspects of your life with this new book from colour theorist Momtaz (@momtazbh). This joyful, mood-boosting book is inspired by the therapeutic benefits of colour therapy and explores mindful craft techniques to…

ALL ABOUT THE CURVES This chic design is specifically cut to fit and flatter curvy bodies. TAILOR’S TACT With sleek princess seams, a sophisticated notched collar and single button closure, this fitted blazer will complement any outfit. MAKE IT YOURS Choose a heavy knit or linen for a casual vibe or a wool suiting or velvet for a dressed-up look. THE AUBURN BLAZER Finding tailored clothes to fit curved bodies can often be a chore – but this lined blazer from Cashmerette has been designed specifically to combat the issue. It features figure-skimming princess seams, a smart notched collar, angled welt pockets and two-piece vented sleeves – with the option of a full or cropped length finish. cashmerette.com PATTERN INSPIRATION Get sewing today with our pick of the best patterns…

Name: Emma Watt Instagram: @SewDoItEmma Website: sewdoitemma.com Pattern: Cashmerette Roseclair Dress Fabric: Art Gallery Fabrics’ Velvet Rayon Challis in Firefly Nightfall from minerva.com Choosing the Roseclair dress to review was a no-brainer for me. When I first saw Jenny Rushmore’s pastel block version I was in love! My sewing list is quite long and I didn’t know when I was going to make this dress until I was asked to write this review. I love tiers and gathers and I was looking for a wrap dress pattern that would be comfortable and chic. I was drawn to this pattern as, being a curvy girl, I want coverage in the right places and I wanted the fit just to be right. This pattern has waist darts and bust darts to help…

This pattern is the result of a collaboration between I AM Patterns (iampatterns.fr) and Cindy of @ledressingdecindy – the model in the cream top! Designed with beginners in mind, it’s a lovely starting piece if you’re new to sewing or a quick make if you’re more experienced. YOU WILL NEED Fabric: Top A & B Size 6–12:1.9mx110cm Size 14–20: 2mx110cm Size 22–24: 2.1x110cm Size 6–12: 1.9mx140cm Size 14–20: 2mx140cm Size 22–24: 2.1x140cm NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Light-/medium-weight fabrics with drape such as viscose, washed linen, chambray, poplin, viscose crepe, silk and Tencel. FABRICS USED ■ Vanilla ice with beige polka dots, prettymercerie.com. ■ Atelier Brunette Stardust double gauze in Amarante, minerva.com. Find the perfect fabric for your blouse at one of these shops, gathered how…

Tulia Unisex Tee, Sewing Patterns by Masin You can make the five panels of this T-shirt from different pieces of fabric, so it’s a great scrap buster. The Eve Trousers, Merchant & Mills Cropped, with a slightly tapered leg, these trousers are easy to make, run from UK size 6–28 and go with anything. Elodie Wrap Dress, Closet Core A flowing wrap dress is a wardrobe staple, and this modern take on a classic can work for daytime and nights out. Rumana Coat, By Hand London This fully lined coat is a wonderful wear-forever piece. It does take some time and skill, but it’s more than worth the effort. Stevie Knickers, Paper Theory Patterns A me-made wardrobe needs a decent pair of knickers, and this beginner-friendly pattern is free.…

While the mere mention of history might send some of us back to days of learning about Vikings in a freezing classroom, one aspect of history that all sewists will likely share an interest in is the history of the clothes we wear. This fascinating aspect of history links us all to the past; we all wear clothes but how many of us know the histories of the fabrics and designs we wear each day? Fashion history is at the heart of the work of historian Amber Butchart. Here, she talks to us about her love for unique clothing, her varied and exciting career, and her passions for both sustainability in the modern fashion industry and using her work to tell the stories of those who history forgot. “THE LINKS…

YOU WILL NEED Main fabric (floral): 50x112cm Lining fabric: 50x30cm Iron-on interfacing Beading and embroidery needle Seed beads and bugle beads in a various colours which match the main fabric DMC stranded cotton in coordinating colours Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm. ■ We used DMC stranded cotton in colours 422, 3853, 3812 and 975. ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates. FABRICS USED ■ Main fabric: Bethan Janine’s Flowers on Black from the Good Vibes collection for Dashwood Studio, thefabricfox.co.uk ■ Lining fabric: Rose and Hubble craft cotton in Peach, remnanthousefabric.co.uk ■ Seed and bugle beads: newtrimmings.co.uk CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Outer Bag: two using template 1 Handle Lining: two using template 2 Outer Base: one using template 3 Step…

YOU WILL NEED Viscose crepe fabric: 140x200cm Matching thread Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED ■ Cousette Primerose Navy viscose crepe from Sew Me Sunshine, sewmesunshine.co.uk. NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm unless otherwise stated. ■ We recommend sewing a toile/ sample before sewing with your chosen fabric. TAKING MEASUREMENTS Step one Take your measurements. The measurements listed below are of our model. Bust: 91cm Waist : 78cm Hip : 98cm Shoulder Neck Point (SNP) = where your shoulder meets your neck SNP to desired length of dress: 106cm, this includes shoulder seam allowance (1.5cm) and hem allowance (6cm). SNP to Neck Opening : 25cm Step two Select the largest measurement from your bust, waist and hip. Our hip is the widest. Step three The dress is made up of four…

YOU WILL NEED Patterned quilting-weight fabric: 50x75cm, for the outer Plain quilting-weight fabric: 50x75cm, for the lining Medium-weight wadding: 50x75cm Covered button kit: 38mm wide Bias binding in a contrasting colour (we used a dusky light blue): 70cm FABRIC USED ■ Hedgehogs from Dashwood Studio’s Acorn Wood collection, dashwoodstudio.com. NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm. ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates. CUTTING OUT Step one From the outer fabric cut: Case Back: one piece using template A Case Front: two pieces using template B (make sure the fabric’s pattern is in opposite directions, running from the straight to the curved edge, on each piece) Step two From the lining and the wadding, cut: Back Wadding: 45x35cm Case Front: two 25x35cm QUILTING THE PIECES Step one Lay out each of the…

YOU WILL NEED Sweatshirt or fleece Stranded cotton in a rainbow of colours Water erasable fabric marker Embroidery needle Basic sewing kit PREPARING THE SWEATSHIRT Step one Cut the original cuffs off of your sweatshirt. Make the cut so it’s approximately 5cm longer than you want the sleeve to be. Zigzag or overlock around the raw edge as you would when finishing a seam.01 Step two Fold each cuff up two times, with each fold roughly 2.5cm. Use a needle and thread to stitch the folded cuff in place at the arm sleeve and on the opposite side.02 MARKING THE PATTERN Step one Use a ruler and water-soluble marking pen to make vertical lines coming up from the folded cuff. Vary the length and spacing of the lines. We made…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

I AM PATTERNS The versatile I AM Cinderella blouse included with this issue comes from French indie company I AM Patterns. We love their contemporary, chic designs and this top is so elegant. Read about designer Marie-Emilienne’s favourite patterns on page 98. EMMA WATT Emma is a passionate about all things sewing and shares her makes and pattern reviews on her Instagram, @sewdoitemma, as well as on her blog. This issue, Emma’s reviewing Cashmerette’s lovely Roseclair dress for us. Find it on page 42. SANDEEP PARWAR Brighton-based Sandeep creates beautiful decorations for children’s rooms. This issue, she’s created a hand-sewn embroidered hanging cloud decoration for us that we can’t wait to get making and hang on display. Find it on page 79. LILLI HINGEE We’re so excited to get to…

Q I want to start quilting in 2022! What advice do you have for a newbie wanting to get started? A My first recommendation is to watch Sewing Street which almost always has a quilting demo, but there are many ways to start and the quilting community is one of the friendliest you’ll ever find. Firstly, consider a few things. You’ll need to get used to good old imperial measurements, almost all quilt instructions use them. I’d also recommend cutting scrap fabrics into five inch squares and practice sewing them together with precise ¼ seams – straight lines are essential in quilt making. Invest in some starch spray, it’ll make life easier, and also invest in a book or two. How to Quilt by Rachel Clare Reynolds or Sarah Payne’s…

1 WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE? Knit fabrics are a fantastically versatile material to use – they’re comfy, cosy and make fitted garments a dream to create. They can also be difficult to work with at times, so it’s important to pick one that will suit your make. Typically, there are two main types of knit fabric – single and interlock (or double) knits. They’re fairly easy to differentiate, with single knits having both a right and wrong side, and interlock presenting as ‘right’ on both sides of the fabric, making it reversible. Interlock tends to be heavier in weight than single knit, doesn’t curl up as much when cut, and is more robust. 2 FEELING HEAVY We’ve all seen the letters ‘GSM’ written down when browsing fabrics, but what does it…

1 This cheery, soft viscose will have a lovely drape and keep you cool under your winter coat while also brightening a rainy day! likesewamazing.com 2 This 100% cotton fabric has a satin weave for a luxurious finish. Whip up a dress that’s ready for daytime and evening wear! From pigeonwishes-shops.com 3 This modern leafy viscose fabric will bring a pop of colour to your wardrobe while also being lovely and comfortable to wear. likesewamazing.com…

Nothing feels better than wearing something you’ve created yourself. Sewists know the power of making clothes they love, clothes that are unique and personal and clothes that will stand the test of time, and it’s fair to say the world in general is waking up to the problems caused by fast and throwaway fashion. “BY SEWING MY OWN CLOTHES, I KNOW I'M MAKING THINGS I'LL CHERISH FOR YEARS." There’s a growing desire for change, with many people looking to make a positive step towards curating their own ‘me-made wardrobe’. Sewing your own me-made wardrobe, or handmade wardrobe, may feel a bit overwhelming or even unattainable, but, as these creative and inspiring sewists prove, there’s nothing to be nervous about when it comes to taking claim of your clothes! London sewist,…

YOU WILL NEED Fabric: 1.5–2.5mx140cm (depending on your measurements) Elastic, 50mm: roughly 1m Paper to draw out your pattern Ruler Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1cm seam allowance. ■ We advise making your pattern before you purchase your fabric so you know how much to buy. ■ You can use paper to create a pattern you can keep and re-use or simply draw your measurements straight onto the fabric. ■ Be careful when pressing/ironing corduroy fabric. Iron it on the wrong side of the fabric only. Use a medium heat setting and iron in the direction of the pile – ensuring you don’t leave the iron in one place for too long. Do not press the iron down too hard as this can crush the velvet…

1 “Be prepared to rummage – enjoy the treasure hunt!”. Give yourself plenty of time when you hit the charity shops – make a day of it! 2 “Learn to identify fabrics so you can find high-quality items quickly when you run your hand down a rail.” Here’s where recognising the difference between silks and high-quality polyesters can pay off. Likewise learn the difference between wool, cashmere and angora for some bargain deals. 3 “Use vintage shopping for statement pieces – you’re not going in there for basics! Buy the jumper covered in sequins! Go in dreaming of flamboyance!”…

In this month’s workshop, Simply Sewing’s Senior Technical Editor, Roisin, shows us how to trace a pattern to preserve our precious originals! Here at Simply Sewing HQ we’re working hard to make our magazine a welcoming and inclusive place for all members of the sewing community. One aspect of this journey is to increase our pattern sizing. We know that body sizes don’t end at a 20 and we want to offer dressmaking patterns in larger size ranges where possible. We have trialed offering larger size ranges online, but now we want to move a step further and include all available sizes of a pattern in our envelopes. As we use patterns from indie designers, not every pattern we bring to you is available beyond a size 20, but where…

YOU WILL NEED 10-count tapestry canvas DK yarn in three colours Tapestry needle: size 18 Velvet furnishing fabric: 50x150cm Polyester fibrefill Self-covered buttons, 4cm: two Matching thread Basic sewing kit MAKING THE PATTERN Step one Draw a circle with a 42cm diameter on a piece of paper. Step two Using a ruler, mark the centre. Then use the centre spot as a guide, draw a line through the centre of the circle, dividing it in half. Divide each half into three segments and draw connecting lines, so the entire circle is split into six segments. Step three Using a pencil, mark 22cm in from the outer circle on each divider line, then mark 10cm outwards from the top of the divider line on each side. Step four Join these two…

YOU WILL NEED Mustard Felt: 20x20cm Tan Felt: 20x20cm Ecru Felt: 20x20cm DMC stranded cotton in shades 783, 842, 817, 501 and Ecru White crochet thread Erasable fabric marker Large-eye sewing needle Toy stuffing Bamboo skewer Hairdryer Matching thread Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates. ■ When sewing is complete reinsert the needle into the work and push it out at a different location before cutting away the tail for neatness. ■ The tissue paper method has been used in this project to transfer the pattern. However the quicker method of using a friction pen to sketch the pattern directly onto the felt can also be adopted. CUTTING OUT Step one Trace the shapes onto the felt using an erasable fabric marker before cutting out. Step…

DINOSAUR TOY PAGE 82 ACTUAL SIZE Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help.…

I have three favourite things, all are dear to my heart, and all three are in this photo! They include my favourite Apollon sweatshirt and mine and my boyfriend’s Jacques raincoats. It’s integral to me that I get a lot of wear from my clothes, and most mornings I find myself reaching for an I AM Apollon sweatshirt. I designed Apollon back in 2015, and it is still one of my favourites. The wide neckline makes it so comfortable, and it’s really cosy to wear. My other favourite thing is the I AM Jacques raincoat. I grew up on Ile de Ré, a small island on the west coast of France where raincoats are a staple garment, so when I designed the I AM a Sailor collection, a raincoat was…