Innehållsförteckning för Issue 108 från Simply Sewing

We’re already dreaming of summer this issue with fab festival makes – a shower-proof poncho and cool mini backpack, plus a gorgeous wrap skirt. You will love this issue’s cover star – The Tara Set with its ultra-stylish simplicity and the option to sew as a dress, or a top! There are lots of bonus gifts for you too, including our pocket-sized Pattern Handbook (perfect for keeping on your desk) and a bonus digital magazine to download and keep. If there are newborns in your life, don’t miss our sweet collection of gifts – a changing bag, romper and more. And we haven’t even mentioned the Sewing Bee yet... WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

RETURN OF THE BEE! Our favourite time of year is back, and we are oh-so ready for it! Season nine of The Great British Sewing Bee is hitting our screens soon and the sweet sound of that wonderful theme music will give our week nights a cause for celebration once more! Turn to page 23 for an extract from this year’s accompanying book, The Great British Sewing Bee: The Skills, page 25 for an extract from judge Esme Young's new tome and bookmark gathered.how/sewing-bee for all the latest show news – as we get it! FUTURLIBERTY! Explore the unique connection between art and design, explored through the historic and contemporary fabric of Liberty with new book, FuturLiberty. Discover how avant-garde art has influenced the colourful, geometric collections for more than…

One lucky person will win this bumper £250 sewing bundle from Simplicity. The prize includes a £100 pattern voucher (for all the brands!) a Sidewinder Bobbin winding machine and Bias Tape Maker machine. The Bias Tape Maker is an easy-to-use machine that folds and presses fabric strips into bias tape and blanket binding with a choice of fabric/heat settings. Streamline sewing prep with the Sidewinder Machine by pre-winding bobbins at the touch of a button, and boost your sew-jo with a £100 pattern voucher to spend at sewdirect.com. Enter at gathered.how/sew_comps…

With a new series of the Sewing Bee returning to our TV screens comes a brand-new book! Following on from The Techniques, this month saw the launch of The Great British Sewing Bee: The Skills (Quadrille, £16.99). It’s all about building confidence and perfecting those all-important finishes. You’ll learn how to tackle tricky fabrics, how to alter patterns and how to add complicated decorative finishes for a professional touch. This is an essential guide for taking your sewing to the next level, and three lucky winners will be adding this new release to their bookshelf. Turn to page 21 for an extract from this book and enter now at gathered.how/sew_comps for your chance to win a copy! See gathered.how/sew_comps to enter today!(Competition is open to UK residents, aged 18+. Closing…

The way you fasten a garment is critical in creating a professional-looking finish. You need to consider not only how you apply the various kinds of fastening but also where you position them so that the garment does not pucker or gape. The right choice of fastening and the right placement can take a garment to the next level. In this chapter we will mainly focus on buttons and buttonholes, as they are often overlooked on the technical front. BUTTON PLACEMENT Button placement can make all the difference between a standard off-the-peg garment and a well-fitting, bespoke garment. It is hardly ever discussed in home dressmaking, so here are some ways to get a professional fit at home, using a button-down blouse as an example. As a rule, it’s easier…

Sign up to our newsletter to download your copy of Mollie Makes Sewing – worth £9.99 – for free! From simple wardrobe hacks to handmade home décor, quick-to-sew gifts, unique accessories and adorable plushie toys, there's something for every sewing ability. It's packed with 109 makes, ideas and tips – all provided with step-by-step instructions. Head over to gathered.how/bonus-gift to download your digital magazine today. Already a newsletter subscriber? You'll find the download link included in your weekly newsletter.…

WHITNEY RAINCOAT The Whitney Raincoat from Amy Nicole Studio is the perfect all-seasons raincoat, with a swingy silhouette, raglan sleeves, in-seam pockets, and a roomy hood. This design is fully lined and features side front seams as well as a centre back box pleat for extra movement and plenty of fun colour blocking opportunities, too! amynicolestudio.com PATTERN INSPIRATION Step on up and out whatever the weather with our pick of the best patterns for waterproof fabrics. 1 CANTON MOTO JACKET The Canton Moto Jacket from Cashmerette features classic biker-style details, including an asymmetrical front zip, wide-notched lapels and zipper pockets and sleeve openings. It can be made up in mid- to heavyweight wovens, waterproofs, or even faux leather or suede. cashmerette.com 2 IRIS UNDERWEAR There’s more to waterproofs than just…

BUNDLE OF JOY NAPPY AND WIPES CASE Keep your changing bag organised with a stylish and practical carry pouch for nappies and wipes. A handy carry handle makes this ideal for when you’re out and about. NURSING PILLOW This nursery must-have will make feeding times comfortable for both parent and baby. Not only does it come in handy during the early days, it's also great for support during pregnancy. BLANKET This quilted blanket is an easy way to add some colour and pattern to a nursery and is something you can use for years to come. It would also make a thoughtful gift for friends or family who are expecting. ROMPER This adorable romper – complete with bunny ears – is the perfect outfit for little ones in the summer…

YOU WILL NEED ■ 30x30cm cotton fabric in light brown (Fabric 1)■ 20x10cm cotton fabric in pale pink (Fabric 2)■ 10x10cm velveteen cotton in pink (Fabric 3)■ 20x10cm patterned cotton fabric (Fabric 4)■ 30x3cm tulle in pale pink (Fabric 5)■ 5x5cm felt in pink (Fabric 6)■ Scrap of cotton fabric in pink (Fabric 7)■ Toy stuffing■ Matching cotton thread■ Embroidery thread in dark brown, pink and yellow■ Basic sewing kit■ Turning tool (optional) NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 5mm unless otherwise stated■ Download the templates from gathered.how/ss-templates CUTTING OUT Step one When marking the pattern pieces, it’s useful to mark the lines so they’re visible on both sides of the fabric. You can do this by marking one side out and then holding the pieces up against a window and…

No13DRAWSTRING PJSCUT OUT & KEEP YOU WILL NEED ■ Drawstring pyjama bottoms■ Stranded cotton in co-ordinating colours■ Erasable fabric marker■ Ruler■ Embroidery hoop■ Embroidery needle■ Basic sewing kit Jazz up a pair of old pair of pyjamas or add the perfect finishing touch to ones that are fresh off the sewing machine with Mollie Johanson's fab embroidery tutorial. Plus, save time by only stitching the sections that are going to show when they're all tied up – result! PREPARATION Step one Use a water-soluble embroidery pen to mark two parallel lines centred on the drawstring. The lines should be about 5mm apart. Mark the lines as long as you want the embroidery to be, which means it only needs to be on the part of the drawstring that shows at…

MY FAVOURITE THING "I first began sewing in 2020 during one of the COVID-19 lockdowns after watching my partner create amazing outfits. I thought I'd give it a go, and looking back started off with a very challenging make, a button-up shirt, but after my first sewing project I fell in love with it. I find buying clothes challenging as I prefer wearing androgynous-style clothing and have certain clothing sensitivities being neurodivergent so I knew that making part of my wedding outfit would happen, but when I decided to make the whole outfit, I didn’t know quite what I was getting myself into! I had already tried out a few different shirt patterns and knew that I would use the Helen’s Closet Cameron button-up shirt pattern as I have made…

The needle in your sewing machine needs to be the right one for your fabric, thread, and stitch type or skipped stitches and broken needles can occur. Needles are labelled with two numbers – the larger number is the EU metric size, and the smaller is the US size. The lower the number, the finer the needle. Use the table below as a guide. NEEDLE SIZE GUIDE THE ANATOMY OF A NEEDLE Shank This is locked into place with the needle clamp screw. It is flat on the back and rounded on the front. Groove The slit on the front of the needle above the eye that protects the thread as the needle stitches. Point The tip that pierces the fabric. The length and sharpness varies depending on the needle…

Modern sewing patterns are available in both paper and PDF formats. Simply Sewing paper patterns are printed double-sided, and so require tracing – this is due to our commitment to providing an increased size range. Here, we take you through how to trace a pattern accurately, and how to print PDF patterns out at home. TRACING PATTERNS It’s best practice to trace your paper pattern before you start cutting into it. Sometimes tracing is optional, but when patterns are double-sided or the pieces are overlapped, you will need to trace them to be able to cut out all of the pieces separately. Tracing allows you to make multiple versions should you wish, which is especially important if the garment has multiple variations. TOOLS FOR TRACING PATTERNS There are a few…

Every dressmaker knows the feeling of excitement at the beginning of a project. Sometimes, being so excited to start sewing can cause us to rush the cutting-out process, but one small error can cause a lot of headaches in the long run. So, take your time to cut out your next project accurately, following these steps as you go. PRE-WASHING FABRIC Before cutting out your fabric it’s always best to pre-wash it on a cool wash. If you cannot wash the fabric, steam it so that any shrinkage occurs before it becomes a garment! Once washed, press the fabric on the wrong side, if you can use steam on your fabric (check on a scrap first!) then this will help to remove deep-set creases. LAYING OUT YOUR PATTERN Lay your…

Say goodbye to stretched edges, wavy hems, gaping pockets, and wonky waistbands! We’ve rounded up of some of the most innovative interfacing products available to help you to choose the best type. It is recommended to match the interfacing to your fabric, for example, knit interfacing for knit fabrics, or lightweight for light fabrics. VLIESELINE WAISTSHAPER This has perforations along the centre fold and seam lines for pressing, used for neat waistbands, cuffs and more. VLIESELINE H410 H410 gives a soft handle and is often used in tailoring. It allows softer fabrics to retain their shape and is ideal for waistbands, hems and jackets. VLIESELINE EDGE TAPE Vlieseline Edge Tape stabilises edges and allows you to sew smooth seams that won’t stretch out of shape over time. VLIESELINE H200 H200…

Many beginner sewists shy away from buttonholes, but they are really very simple to sew once you get the hang of them. The key, as with any technique, is practice! As buttonholes are often the last step in finishing a garment, it is important to test out the stitch several times before you add them to your project. Here are some essential tips and techniques to get neat, professional-looking buttonholes on a variety of different garments. ANATOMY OF A BUTTONHOLE Buttonholes are made from four lines of zigzag stitching which create a box. The zigzag stitches have a long width and narrow length meaning that they sit close together. Computerised machines often have a one-step automatic buttonhole stitch to allow you to sew in one go. Mechanical machines often have…

When was the last time your machine was serviced? For some of us, it might have been a few months ago, and for others a few years, but, more commonly, it’s never! The key to achieving the best stitching quality and prolonging the life of your machine is to ensure it is in proper working order with a professional service at least once a year. Doing a DIY service every few months won’t mean you never need a professional service, but it will ensure your machine will serve you for the longest possible time. Think of it as you would your car – yearly services are essential, but that doesn’t mean you don’t top up the oil and care for it in-between. Here we share some basic steps that you…

SIZES 6-30 US 2-26 EUR 34-58 TOP PACK INCLUDES ■ Pattern sheet x1■ Instruction sheet YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: ■ Sizes 6–20: 2.3mx150cm■ Sizes 22–30: 2.5mx150cm■ Lightweight iron-on interfacing: 40x90cm■ Matching thread NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm unless otherwise stated. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Viscose, silk, tencel or fine cottons such as lawn. FINISHED BACK LENGTH ■ Approximately 71.5cm SIZE CHART WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING © Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing. Pattern by Becky Perry (Pattern Paper Scissors) for Prima UK, 2022. Supplied by Our Media Ltd (an Immediate Group Company), Bristol, BS1 4ST. For individual, private use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes. Not for resale. CUTTING LAYOUTS STITCHING TERMS RS/WS: Right side/wrong side of the fabric. The right side usually has the print, design or texture…

SIZES 6-30 US 2-26 EUR 34-58 TOP DRESS PACK INCLUDES ■ Pattern sheets x2■ Instruction sheet YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: ■ Size 6–20 top: 0.9mx150cm■ Size 16–30 top: 2mx150cm■ Size 6–20 dress: 1.3mx150cm■ Size 16–30 dress: 2.8mx150cm Single-fold bias binding: ■ Size 6–20 top (curved hem): 5m■ Size 16–30 top (curved hem): 8m■ Size 6–20 dress (curved hem): 6m■ Size 16–30 dress (curved hem): 13m■ Size 6–20 top/dress (straight hem): 3m■ Size 16–30 top/dress (straight hem): 6m■ Matching thread■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 5mm unless stated. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Light- to medium-weight wovens, such as viscose, linen blends, viscose/cotton poplins, poly blends. Mandi has been showcasing her love of fashion through Make with Mandi since 2020, makewithmandi.com. BODY MEASUREMENTS © Printed in the UK for…

It's that time of year when we're buzzing for The Great British Sewing Bee and we've got lots to shout about our fave reason to hog the sofa. Don't miss our exclusive extract from the new book to accompany the series, where the experts share their knowledge on fastenings. We also share some of judge Esme Young's story in a piece from her memoir, Behind the Seams. There's lots more to love this issue including a host of gifts (full run-down below), a festival poncho, wrap skirt, bunny toy, and gingham backpack. Join us online at @SimplySewingMagand gathered.how/sewing-beefor all the latest show gossip. See you there!…

Atelier Jupe Petra and Eva’s fave picks from their extensive and unique collection EMILY TROUSERS The Emily Trousers have a wide, loose-fit with a small pleat in the front, side pockets and an elasticated waistband. There’s also the option to add elegant ribbons to tie up the trousers and complete the look. Make these up in lightweight fabrics with a nice amount of drape for ultra-comfy trousers that move with you. Available in UK sizes 6–22. atelierjupe.com FLORENCE WRAP DRESS Florence is a wrap dress that sits perfectly on the cusp of casual and formal, so it’s a fab outfit for both the office and the weekend. Make Florence a loose-fitting, mid-length dress or shorten her to a lovely wrap blouse! Available in UK sizes 6–24. atelierjupe.com CHARLIE SWEATER Our…

Olivia is Adjustoform’s most feature-rich dress form, designed to revolutionise your sewing practice. The body can be placed on the stand offset to one side so you can use it to make trousers and shorts, as well as dresses, tops and skirts. The stand also features a pin grip hem marker to take the hassle out of hemming. You can use the 12 thumb wheels to easily adjust the back length, and lockable wheels make it convenient to move around. Choose from extra small to large (UK sizes 4–24). Discover more about this high-end dress form at adjustoform.com and enter the competition at gathered.how/sew_comps…

For a limited time, we're offering readers an exclusive discount code to use on all digital dressmaking patterns in our online shop! The code is valid 8 May - 1 July 2023. HOW TO GET 50% OFF 1 Scan the QR code or head to SimplySewingPatterns. etsy.com to browse our collection of digital patterns2 Add your favourite patterns to your shopping basket then head to the checkout to apply the discount code3 Enter discount code SPRINGSALE to get 50% off all the Simply Sewing patterns in your basket. Find the collection online now at SimplySewingPatterns.etsy.com or scan the QR code…

Just at the point some are thinking of retirement, I took on what has arguably been the biggest challenge of my career. It started with a party. A colleague and friend Sarah Gresty, BA Fashion Course Leader, from Central Saint Martins (who took over from Willie Walters), was celebrating her 50th birthday and I got chatting to a lovely guest. We had the standard ‘So what do you do?’ conversation and she said she was a TV producer and was working on a new sewing programme. I told her what I did, and she asked if I would have been interested in being part of it, to which I said absolutely, but she said they thought they had found someone. I thought no more of it. When the first series…

The Tara Set is all about options. Once you’ve chosen between sewing a top or dress, you’ll need to pick a neckline, hem shape and length! We do love a versatile pattern so we will be getting heaps of use out of this mix-and-match set from designer Make With Mandi (makewithmandi.com). Read more about Mandi's brand origins on page 36 and don't forget to share yours with us using #SimplySewingMag and #MakeWithMandi on social media. YOU WILL NEED Main fabric: ■ Size 6–20 top: 0.9mx150cm■ Size 16–30 top: 2mx150cm■ Size 6–20 dress: 1.3mx150cm■ Size 16–30 dress: 2.8mx150cm Single-fold bias binding: ■ Size 6–20 top (curved hem): 5m■ Size 16–30 top (curved hem): 8m■ Size 6–20 dress (curved hem): 6m■ Size 16–30 dress (curved hem): 13m■ Size 6–20 top/dress (straight hem):…

DRAFT YOUR OWN!Self-draft YOU WILL NEED ■ Lightweight woven fabric: 2-4mx110cm (see below)■ Fabric marker or tailor’s chalk■ French curve ruler or large dinner plate■ Matching thread■ Basic sewing kit SUGGESTED FABRICS ■ Light-weight woven fabrics such as cotton viscose, rayon challis, and cotton lawn. NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm■ The amount of fabric required will depend on the size you wish to make. We recommend drafting your pattern first if you are unsure so that you can calculate fabric needed.■ To machine tack, use the longest straight stitch on the machine at the lowest tension. This kind of stitch is meant to be removed.■ Backstitch all seams at the beginning and end.■ When sewing with woven fabrics, finish the seams using a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. DRAFTING…

Sew a wardrobe classic with this simple and satisfying pattern. You can pair this with anything in your wardrobe – we love it styled with skinny jeans, but worn with a flowy maxi it makes for the ultimate easy summer outfit. Made up in a cotton lawn this top is a casual, everyday staple, but swap that for silk and you’ve got yourself a piece of evening wear you’ll feel amazing in! With only six pattern pieces to sew, you can have your Smock Top sewn up in no time, so a last-minute invite needn’t cause panic! You’ll feel cool and comfortable in an instant. Fancy making this your own? With simple adaptations you can customise this design. You could add a breast pocket, extend the sleeves, opt for contrast…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

Looking for some new patterns for your me-made wardrobe? Look no further than our very own Simply Sewing pattern shop. Now you can get instant access to your favourite patterns from our archive, alongside our latest releases. Each design comes with a fully graded PDF pattern, step-by-step instructions and a size chart – all ready for you to download and print at home. Digital patterns are so quick and easy to use, turn to page 12 to get started and shop the full collection online at SimplySewingPatterns.etsy.com…

With so many markings to follow, sewing patterns can seem a little daunting at first, but these marks and symbols are there to help you achieve a great fit and finish. Markings such as grainlines and fold lines are used for positioning the pattern on your fabric, while others, like the lengthen and shorten lines, are for adjusting the pattern pieces. Some markings, including notches and darts, need to be transferred onto your fabric. Take a look at the marking key opposite for an overview of the main markings you will encounter. CUTTING LINES These are the outer lines of the pattern. Multi-size patterns have different style lines for each of the sizes, such as dots and dashes or a combination of the two. Cut along the line that matches…

Stitching two or more layers of fabric together is called seaming. It’s the basic skill needed for dressmaking and there are several different seam types. The most important thing is that you stitch the same distance from the raw edges for a neat and even finish – luckily, your sewing machine has marks to guide you with this, and your pattern will tell you the seam allowance measurement to use. WHICH SEAM TO SEW? There are several different types of seams you can use depending on the finish you want. Seam choice will also depend on your fabric type, where the seam is placed, and the wear it will endure. Choose a seam that suits your project – your instructions will advise you. LEVELLING UP Before you stitch the seam,…

Adding a zip closure is a key element of dressmaking, used for everything from floaty dresses to trousers. It may seem like a difficult step for beginners, but if you follow the process step-by-step you’ll have a super-neat zip inserted in no time! Here’s how to insert both non-invisible and invisible zips. INSERTING A NON-INVISIBLE ZIP Step one Finish the raw edges of the fabric pieces where the zip will be inserted using your preferred method. 01 Step two Stitch the seam from the hem up to the point where the zip will end, and backstitch at the beginning and end to secure the stitches. Step three Machine tack the rest of the seam closed with the longest stitch length on your machine. Don’t backstitch at either end of the…

Hems are the crucial finishing touch for every garment and many home sewing projects, so it’s important to choose, work, and finish them properly. They can be worked by machine or by hand – here, we show you how to hem using your sewing machine. We’ve covered the most popular hem types and shared some tips to help you work them as neatly as possible on your garments. SINGLE FOLD HEM Step one Zigzag or overlock along the raw edge to neaten. Step two Turn the neatened edge under by the hem allowance to the wrong side (WS) and press, then machine stitch this into place just inside the raw edge. DOUBLE FOLD HEM Step one Decide the hem allowance and add 1cm to this. Turn the raw edge under…

Feeling inspired to add more skills to your sewing repertoire? You’ll find heaps of technical know-how and step-by-step guides, written by the team behind Simply Sewing, on our website gathered.how. From learning how to thread a bobbin and sew a simple collar, right through to adjusting patterns to fit your body, there are plenty of tutorials for you to bookmark and refer back to. Use the search bar to look for specific skills for your next dressmaking project. Adding ruffles to a summer dress? Learn how at gathered.how/ruffles…

JULIET UZOR Juliet Uzor is a London-based author and school teacher with a massive love of sewing clothes and sharing fun sewing and DIY craft videos on her YouTube channel. Turn to page 44 to make her fab self-drafted waterproof poncho project. SHONTAE BUFFINGTON Shontae Buffington is a doctor by day, self-taught petite fashion and sewing blogger by night with a penchant for travel. Read her My Sewing World column on page 66 to hear about how she uses sewing to combat burnout in her fast paced career. MAYA PEREDA Originally from Peru, Maya is a London based designer and owner of L’Atelier de Maya, creating 100% handmade accessories. Turn to page 77 to make her modern and stylish gingham backpack ready for all your summer adventures. IMOGEN MILLAIS Turn…

SEW SUSTAINABLE C&T Publishing (£15.99, Search Press) If you’re looking to reduce your wastage and make some eco-friendly changes to your home life, look no further than Sew Sustainable. With 22 stylish projects to reuse and reduce, including Japanese furoshiki wraps, reusable cleaning tools, and home accessories to choose from, you’ll be stitching up a sustainable storm in no time. Hitting shelves on 30 June 2023. BLOOMING FASHIONISTAS Stephanie Gentry ($19.99, Palmetto Publishing) Filled to the brim with stunning fashion illustrations inspired by blooming flowers and including a birth flower chart, Blooming Fashionistas is a one-of-a-kind adult colouring book that’s perfect for a bit of me-time. So, make a cup of tea, get comfy, relax and recuperate as you have a mindful break from the hustle and bustle. INSTANT SOFTIES…

COMPETITIONS This beautiful wooden teak thread case from Madeira is filled with 48 spools of 400m high-quality rayon threads for your sewing and embroidery. Packed with their best-selling colours, there’s a thread for every project, each complete with a neat shadecard for easy reordering. One winner will receive this handmade case to proudly display. Enter now at gathered.how/sew_comps to win one as a treat for yourself, or as an extra special gift for a fellow sewist. Visit madeira.co.uk to take a look at their incredible range of threads, including metallic, reflective and glow in the dark!…

Whether you're brand new to dressmaking, or a seasoned pro, you're guaranteed to find our handy pocket-sized Pattern Handbook a useful addition to your sewing space. Let our clear step-by-step guides take your next me-made garment from paper pattern, right through to cutting, sewing and finishing. Plus, we've included lots of practical tips to help you understand pattern markings, troubleshoot issues with your sewing machine and even print digital PDF patterns at home! Find heaps more sewing guides at gathered,how.…

Serena – The Vintage Collector When you come across Serena’s Instagram (@sewrena_) you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped back in time. Serena, a stay-at-home mum based in the US, lives and breathes vintage. With a stunningly decorated home filled with mid-century modern pieces, a 1962 Chevy Corvair Monza on the driveway and a plethora of stunning handmade clothes, Serena has the perfect mid-century modern life. But where did this love of vintage begin? “I have always enjoyed vintage and historical dress,” she says. “Grade school was the first time I experimented with my style. I was in love with the flashy, colourful looks of the 1970s. My love of mid-century themes, fashion and decor started very young and stuck with me.” It would take a little more time, however,…

The woman behind Make With Mandi is, quite simply, a force of nature. Mandi Bharij’s talents have been shaped by her upbringing and have brought her to the point of steering a pattern brand whilst juggling her full time job working as a buyer. She is smashing both. Her wares have been featured in numerous magazines and notably produced stylish collaborations. Her background is in menswear, but now she specialises in creating timeless, wearable and comfy womenswear designs; with just enough of a nod to trends to make the wearer feel up to date and en vogue. “MANDI WAS ALWAYS FASCINATED WITH TURNING THE FLAT FABRIC INTO THREE-DIMENSIONAL SHAPES." Taking it right back to her early years, Mandi’s career dreams always lay in fashion. Initially, she was drawn to illustration,…

Name: Marcia RiddingtonInstagram handle:@marcialoisriddington and @smokingmonkeyantiquesPattern: Sew Me Something, AngelicaFabric: Atelier Brunette Double Cotton Gauze fabric in Night OchreFabric Stockist:Minerva.com I have tried many styles of frock over the years but I always come back to ones with a full skirt and a slightly higher waistline. I enjoy clothes very much but I always think it is important to wear what you feel good in rather than to follow trends or fashion. Concentrating on your own style rather than fashion also means you won’t be continually wanting to update your wardrobe. I felt this pattern would fit into my wardrobe well and the neckline and back buttons are a really pretty feature. As I have mainly floral or patterned frocks I thought this plainer fabric would make a useful addition…

SELF-DRAFT YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 60x115cm■ Lining fabric: 60x115cm■ Felt: 35cmx1m■ Cotton webbing: 1.60m■ Pre-made bias binding: 35cm■ D-rings: 3x 4cm■ Slider: 1x 4cm■ Magnetic clasp■ Matching thread■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance 1cm■ Measure the strap before cutting in order to adjust the size.■ Felt is used as a rigid wadding to give the bag some shape. You could use an alternative dense wadding for your backpack. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Main fabric: Cotton, canvas, velvet■ Lining fabric: Cotton CUTTING OUT Step one From the main fabric cut: Front and Back Outer: two 35x35cmFront Pocket Outer: 35x24cm (WxH)Flap Outer: 26x20cm (WxH)Drawstring Channel: 34x6cm Step two From the lining fabric cut: Front and Back Lining: 35x35cm Front Pocket Lining: 35x24cm (WxH)Flap Lining: 26x20cm (WxH) Step three From…

BUNNY PAGE 69ACTUAL SIZE BUNNY PAGE 69ACTUAL SIZE BABY GIFTS PAGE 50ACTUAL SIZE BABY GIFTS PAGE 50ACTUAL SIZE Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help. All templates are available to download from our website. Scan the code to go straight to the templates page!…

There are many ways to finish a raw edge– pinking shears, zigzag stitching, and binding are just a few – but overlocking has become a firm favourite as it provides a long-lasting, professional finish. While overlockers were once the preserve of clothing factories, in the last 50 years domestic overlockers have become widely available and more affordable, making them appealing to home sewists. For many, however, deciding whether or not to purchase an overlocker is a tough decision. Before diving in, explore the stitches on your sewing machine, as often it will be jam-packed with clever finishing stitches. ZIGZAG STITCH Presser foot: Zigzag foot or overedge foot With the overedge foot, sew along the raw edge of the fabric, aligning the guide on the presser foot with the raw edge.…

Always measure yourself before you choose a pattern size, as sizing can vary greatly from pattern to pattern, then compare your measurements to the pattern’s size chart. Measure yourself in your underwear (preferably in the underwear you’ll be wearing underneath your garment). For accuracy, use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body. Make sure the tape measure sits snugly around you, but that it isn’t too tight. WHAT TO MEASURE 1 HIGH BUST⁄CHEST Across the back, directly under the arms and above the bust. 2 BUST Around the fullest part of your bust, centrally across the nipples. 3 BUST POINT This is your nipple point. Use this to determine the positioning of your dart if you are performing a bust adjustment. 4 WAIST Your natural waistline, where…

While sewing a straight line might sound like an easy feat, stitching darts can be a tricky challenge due to the importance of these bust shaping tucks. Stitching a precise dart is important if you want your garment to fit well. Your stitching line needs to be straight, and it’s important to make the dart as smooth as possible so it’s barely visible when worn. PREPARING THE DART Step one Mark the darts on the wrong side (WS) of the fabric using tailor’s chalk. Mark the point of the dart with a tailor’s tack if desired. Thread a needle with a length of thread, 20cm (8in) is plenty, and pass the needle through the tip of the dart, leaving thread tails on each side. 01 Step two Fold the dart…

When you’re struggling to master a seam or a fabric isn’t playing ball, a specialist presser foot could be the solution. In this guide, we’re looking at the different types of presser feet for inserting zips. Zips are often the most feared closure for beginners, but using a specialist zip foot can save you a lot of stress! Here, we talk you through four types of zip feet and how to use them. ZIP FOOT The zip foot is used to stitch dress/skirt zips in place. The foot is designed to allow you to get nice and close to the zip teeth. The foot can also be used to insert piping or to sew seams that are bulkier on one side than the other. The foot has a double bar…

High-quality pressing is the secret to a perfectly finished garment, and pressing as you sew is key. There are differences between ironing and pressing – and when you’re sewing, it’s pressing that you need! Ironing is the process of sliding the iron back and forth across the fabric, while pressing is placing your iron on the fabric and pressing down, often applying steam at the same time. WHY TO PRESS Pressing is a step that can be easily missed as it slows the process down, but it is essential. With some projects you may spend almost as much time pressing as sewing. You should always press as you sew, then each stage of the stitching process will be neat and flat before you move onto the next. HOW TO PRESS…

BACKSTITCH Also called reverse stitch, this is done at the beginning and end of a seam to prevent it from coming undone. It’s also used to describe an embroidery stitch where the stitches are worked backwards. DRAPE The way a fabric hangs under its own weight. This can range from firm to light and fluid. FUSIBLE Also referred to as iron-on and used to describe interfacing or webbing. The fusible, rougher side has the glue applied and should be placed directly onto the fabric and pressed to attach it to the fabric. GRAIN/GRAINLINE The direction of the fabric which runs parallel to the selvedge. Patterns have the grainlines printed on them, usually represented as an arrow, and you should make sure this arrow is parallel to the fabric selvedge before…