Innehållsförteckning för Issue 109 från Simply Sewing

The Bee is back! We have the scoop on this year’s Great British Sewing Bee, with exclusive interviews from the judges and details on all 12 contestants in the new series! There’s plenty more to inspire your own made-to-measures, including a self draft maxi skirt and all gender jersey tunic. It’s also Pride Month, so we’re celebrating with an array of feel-good rainbow projects, including a certain technicolour elephant… Then there’s this issue’s cover star – The Lola Dress. With its square neck, puff sleeves and two lengths to choose from, it’s a summer wardrobe essential. WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING #SIMPLYSEWINGMAG facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine twitter.com/simplysewing_ pinterest.com/simplysewingmag instagram.com/simplysewingmag…

READY, GET SET, GO! Atelier Brunette are inviting your inner child to laugh, explore and have fun with their new spring/summer collection, Playtime. Joyous and versatile prints build up the fabric range, from candy stripes to offset lines – we love the dainty dashes of their aptly-titled Hopscotch design too! The prints dance across some of our favourite substrates, including cotton gauze and viscose, and come in enough colourways to ensure a truly unique wardrobe, however you use them! Browse at atelierbrunette.com. COLOUR BLAST! If you're not yet familar with TikTok and YouTube star, @mister.larrie, then might we point you in the direction of his infectious content? Making everything from bags and aprons to DIY kicks, a quick follow is sure to bring happiness and colour to your feed. SWEET…

Bold prints and patterns in a breezy linen paired with fun, puffy sleeves make the Lola Dress the epitome of summer for us! Make sure you pack it in your suitcase if you’re off on holiday, or keep it at the front of your wardrobe for garden parties and picnics. This design is from Carla Diogo of Set Square Patterns. Carla occasionally runs workshops for this dress, so be sure to follow her on Instagram @setsquarepatterns for more! YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric: 3mx140cm or 3mx150cm ■ Iron-on midweight woven interfacing: 50x90cm ■ Bias binding: 3m ■ Elastic, 5mm wide: 1m ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm; 5mm at front and back neckline; and 3cm at the hem. ■ Press seams open as…

A GOOD READ Social media platforms such as Instagram have a reputation for over-filtered selfies and rosy depictions of real life, but if you look in the right places, you can find grassroots communities of people just like you. Places where you can post yourself, and see another version reflected back at you; a place for relationships to grow and flourish. It just takes one person to create a home for these kinds of conversations to take place. A person like Shannon Flaherty (@rare.device), the founder of SewQueer, a project dedicated to connecting queer and trans sewists to one another for conversation, community and sharing resources. CHALLENGING ‘NORMS’ SewQueer was born out of Shannon's frustration with “heteronormativity in the online sewing world.” “Sewing has a powerful past as a women’s…

Name: Emery Smith (they/them) Instagram handle: @emeryasmith Pattern: By Hand London Leo Dungarees Fabric: Minerva Core Range Textured Viscose Linen Noil in Navy Blue Fabric stockist: Minerva.com When I first saw this pattern I was immediately drawn to the loose, slouchy fit; it just looked so fun and comfortable. I always struggle with clothing over the summer; I’m not a fan of dresses and this looked like a great alternative for those hotter months. I noticed that the designer showed models of different genders wearing them on their product pages and social media, and as a non-binary person; I find I’m always more drawn to patterns marketed as gender neutral. MY STYLE I love the quirkiness of my dungarees! I feel I’ve made them quite unique with my…

PROJECT BAG YOU WILL NEED ■ Remnant fabrics in a mixture of prints and colours ■ Waxed canvas fabric: 35.5x30.5cm ■ Waxed canvas fabric: two 7.5x30.5cm ■ Plain canvas fabric: 35.5x30.5cm ■ Plain canvas fabric: 15x20cm ■ Leather or rope: 127cm PREPARATION Step one First, sew together remnant fabrics to form a 35.5x30.5cm section. ASSEMBLING THE PATCHWORK Step one Taking two fabrics, cut one into a rectangle and one into a triangle. Place the fabrics right side (RS) together, positioning the triangle halfway down the rectangle, with the left-hand raw edges aligned. Sew across the base of the triangle, so horizontally across the rectangle. Trim the excess fabric at the corner. Press open to create a rectangle. 01 Step two Cut a third piece of fabric to the same length…

MY FAVOURITE THING “What comes to mind when you picture someone wearing a short sleeve, button-up, collared shirt? Grandpa? A park ranger? The captain of your local bowling team? A 30-something queer college professor who loves to sew their own clothes? “Something about a short sleeve button-up makes me feel so beautifully queer, comfortable, and confident. Whether I’m dressing it up with a me-made suit for a friend’s wedding or dressing it down with shorts and a tank top to spend the day exploring the city, it always feels like the right choice. “This floral button-up is my favorite thing I’ve made since learning to sew about five years ago. I think I finally nailed the fit by adjusting the sleeve cap, and the garment looks both relaxed…

There's so much for us to celebrate this month. The Great British Sewing Bee is back on BBC One and we are delighted! Meet all the contestants and find full episode guides at gathered. how/sewing-bee. As we enjoy the arrival of some sunshine in the UK (finally!), we're also supporting and celebrating Pride month. Get to grips with jersey fabrics and sew Mathew Boudreaux's all gender tunic, grab your brightest threads to embroider Cai Ni Laighin's welcome banner, and read Sophie Brown's interview with Shannon Flaherty, co-founder of SewQueer. Sewing really is for everyone, so come on in! It's great to have you here.…

Vests Sleeveless styles up your layering game, says Kate and Rachel of The Foldline. KEIRA VEST The Kiera Vest by Juliana Martejevs is the perfect multitasker – pair with a tee for a summer day with a cool breeze or layer up with chunky knitwear on a crisp autumn afternoon – You can brush up on some quilting skills too! Available in sizes XS–XXXL at thefoldline.com or julianamartejevs.com. EVERYDAY WAISTCOAT The folks at The New Craft House have created quite possibly the greatest addition to a puffed sleeve: the Everyday Waistcoat. Quick, easy and beginner-friendly, it's a great speedy sew and a light and lovely addition to any wardrobe. Also available for men! UK sizes 6–34. thenewcrafthouse.com BILLY GILET Known for their timeless style, Merchant & Mills' Billy Gilet looks…

Series 9 of The Great British Sewing Bee sees 12 new home sewers coming together to create beautiful garments in a bid to be crowned Britain’s best amateur sewer. Host Sara Pascoe is once again at the helm along with judges Patrick Grant and Esme Young. The sewers range in age from 20 to 73 and are from all walks of life and spread across the nation. Turn to p22 now to meet the eclectic newbies, including a trainee solicitor, police dispatcher, teaching assistant, salesperson, nurse, teacher, video games designer, graphic designer, postman, consultant oncoplastic breast surgeon, student and a retired HR manager. Patrick and Esme set the weekly challenges as the sewers explore clothes inspired by art, travel, fashion icons, utilitarian clothing and West Africa, as well as some…

My mum and grandma were huge influences in my crafting journey as a child growing up in Germany. My mum is really good at knitting and my Grandma loved cross-stitching. I watched them and developed a passion for all things crafty and drawing at a young age. I really learned how to properly sew and draft patterns when I studied fashion design in the Netherlands and France, and then moved to Thailand in 2009 to teach at a private design university. I love living in Asia and being inspired by the diverse cultures and styles here. When the Covid-19 pandemic hit, everything changed for me. I had to switch to online teaching and find new ways to connect with my students and to keep them happy and motivated. That’s when…

In this month’s workshop, Simply Sewing’s Senior Technical Editor, Roisin, helps you get to grips with your dress form for easy fitting! Many sewists dream of having a dress form, (also referred to as a tailor's dummy or mannequin) to add to their sewing room. They’re an essential tool for any garment work, from elaborate design to occasional alterations. At Simply Sewing HQ, I use a dress form to check the fit of our samples for our cover projects. A dress form with an adjustable dial allows me to check the fit and hang of a whole selection of sizes to make sure our patterns are true to size and drape nicely before they go to print. They’re also a handy tool for alterations, pattern hacks, hemming, and even creating…

HOME MAKEOVER COASTERS A dash of colour goes a long way. Give your beverage of choice a prime spot with these simple fabric squares. Easy to make, easy to wash! Plus, hey'd make great housewarming gifts, too. ENVELOPE CUSHIONS The simplest of cushion patterns with a quilted twist. These colourful cushions have a basic patchwork element to them too, to introduce an extra visual treat with added texture. TOTE BAGS The easiest way to add colour to your wardrobe is with fabulous accessories and these sunshine-y tote bags are an excellent example! Make them to keep and reuse over and over, or sew them as gifts for book club pals. PLANT POT COVER Dull plastic pots be gone! Our plant friends needn't be left out with a snazzy cosy of…

DRAFT YOUR OWN! SELF-DRAFT YOU WILL NEED ■ Woven fabric: 5.5mx140cm (6ydx55in) ■ Iron-on interfacing ■ Invisible zip: 30.5cm (12in) or longer ■ Scissors/rotary cutter ■ Tape measure ■ Matching thread NOTES ■ Most wax print fabrics are sold in 6-yard lengths (5.5m), so while you probably won’t use all 6 yards, we recommend having a full piece for this project. MEASURING AND CUTTING OUT Step one Measure your fabric to make sure it’s long enough to give you the desired length. Most wax print fabrics are around 112cm (44in) long. Step two Take a look at your fabric’s design. Which direction do you prefer? With wax print, it can sometimes be hard to see which side is the right side (RS) and which side is the wrong side (WS).…

No 14 CHAIN STITCH RAINBOW YOU WILL NEED ■ Denim or twill shorts ■ Stranded cotton in three colours ■ Vanishing ink pen ■ Embroidery hoop ■ Embroidery needle ■ Scissors PREPARATION Step one Use a water-soluble embroidery pen to mark little three-colour rainbows all over the shorts. You can practice making these on paper, but it's okay if the markings aren't all exactly the same. Consider the placement of the rainbows so they aren't in places that are difficult to stitch. 01 Step two Position the embroidery hoop on the shorts, making sure that only the outer layer of fabric is in the hoop. Around the pockets you'll need to take extra care so the lining doesn’t get caught. Thread your embroidery needle with all six strands of the…

SIZES 6-24 US 2-20 EUR 34-52 CULOTTES A CULOTTES B PACK INCLUDES ■ Pattern sheet x1 ■ Instruction sheet YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric: 150cm wide A: size 6–12: 1.6m; size: 14–24: 2m B: size 6–12: 2.1m; size 14–24: 2.5m ■ Lightweight iron-on interfacing: 30x150cm ■ Elastic, 38mm wide: see size chart ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Linen, Tencel, lyocell, viscose or cotton. FINISHED SIDE LENGTHS ■ A: roughly 68cm ■ B: short: roughly 79cm; medium: roughly 87cm; tall: roughly 95cm BODY MEASUREMENTS WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING © Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing. Pattern by Becky Perry (Pattern Paper Scissors) for Prima UK, 2022. Supplied by Our Media Ltd (an Immediate Group Company), Bristol, BS1 4ST. For individual, private use…

TAI HICKS Tai Hicks is a self-taught seamstress from Birmingham, Alabama. She first learned to sew so she could alter her dance costumes and soon caught the sewing bug. You can find her self-draft maxi skirt (with pockets!) on page 67. MATHEW BOUDREAUX Mathew Boudreaux of Mx Domestic is a proud polycraftual maker who actively blends sewing and crafting with social activism, diversity and inclusion wherever they are. You can find their self-draft, all-gender tunic design on page 42. TOBIAS KONRATH Tobias Konrath is a fashion designer and lecturer who designs digital sewing patterns with hand-illustrated tutorials. His garments are airy and comfortable with an oversized style. Turn to page 32 to read about his brand, Tropical Research. MALLORY BARKDULL Mallory lives in the Bay Area in California, and has…

MAKE IT YOURS WITH MIMI G Mimi Goodwin (£25.00, Abrams) We know you'll agree that the best thing about sewing your own clothes is that you can create whatever you want. Mimi G is making it easy for everyone with her latest book, Make It Yours, bringing a collection of 26 basic patterns that can be sewn and hacked to make over 100 on-trend looks. Combined with top styling tips, it's a must-have! ZERO WASTE PATTERNS Birgitta Helmersson (£20.00, Quadrille) Birgitta Helmersson's designs have been at the forefront of zero waste dressmaking for years now, so we're thrilled to see her hotly anticipated book finally being released. In it you'll find patterns for 20 garments in Brigitta's signature Scandi style, each easy to make without large, cumbersome pattern pieces. Find…

THIS MONTH... CUSTOM FIT Cleverly placed darts and a sash waistband not only add decorative detail but ensure a great fit, too. ROOM FOR MOVEMENT The wide-legged, high-waist design keeps these trousers comfortable DRESS UP OR DOWN These stylish trousers can be made in a wide array of fabrics and can just as easily be worn casually as smartened up. CANNES TROUSERS These classic high-waisted, pleated-front, ultra-wide-legged pants from Liesl + Co include a handy zip fly, slanted front pockets, back darts for shaping, belt loops, and an optional sash. They can be made up in a wide variety of fabrics, from linen to satin, wool, and suiting – and can be worn in so many ways, casual or smart. Lieslandco.com PATTERN INSPIRATION Get stuck in with our guide to…

Those long, hazy summer days have arrived, and that means picnics in the park, swims in the sea and barbecues with friends. The Capri Bag pattern features a boxed base so there's lots of space for fitting in all your daytrip essentials. Designer Anna Alicia (@aalicialondon) has used a sunshine-yellow fabric for the comfy tie handles but you could go for a bold pattern or even reuse a scarf lingering in your wardrobe! Use the Insta hashtag #SimplySewingMag to show us the fun times you get up to with your new bag.…

YOU WILL NEED Knit jersey fabric: ■ 2yds main print ■ 1yd secondary print ■ ¼yd collar/cuffs ■ Favourite oversized T-shirt ■ Tailor’s chalk ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ When sewing knit on a domestic sewing machine, use ⅜in seam allowance with Wooly Nylon or Maxi-Stretch thread in the bobbin, and use a stretch stitch. ■ A walking foot is also recommended on a domestic machine to ensure the top and bottom fabrics move evenly through the feed dogs. FABRICS USED ■ Two print jersey fabrics and one ribbed jersey fabric from joann.com. RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ If new to sewing knit, two-way cotton jersey or ponte knit fabrics are more beginner friendly. PREPARATION – THE BODY Step one Fold the main print fabric in half from…

BANNER YOU WILL NEED ■ Natural canvas pointed banner (30x50cm) ■ Embroidery hoop or snap frame ■ Iron-on interfacing (optional) ■ Heat erasable pen or tracing paper ■ Basic sewing kit MATERIALS USED ■ DMC stranded cotton and banner purchased from Hobbycraft ■ Stranded embroidery cotton in the following shades: ■ DMC 310: 6-8m approx ■ DMC 666: 5m approx ■ DMC 970: 5m approx ■ DMC 307: 5m approx ■ DMC 703: 5m approx ■ DMC 3846: 5m approx ■ DMC 552: 5m approx ■ DMC E168: 2m approx ■ DMC E436: 1m approx ■ DMC E301: 1m approx NOTES ■ Download the template from gathered.how/ss-templates. ■ Go to gathered.how for our guide to embroidery stitches. PREPARING THE DESIGN Step one Use tracing paper or a heat eraseable pen…

For the office and the weekend, for summer and winter and for home and away, the Culottes pattern is an absolute must-make. This simple style will go with everything, making it the perfect base for that desirable capsule wardrobe. Tuck a casual tee or strappy top into linen culottes and style with some sandals to stay cool in the warm weather, and pair the full-length trousers with a chunky roll neck and trainers for the cooler months. With an elasticated back waist, those all-important pockets and a choice of flowy, lightweight fabrics to use, you’ll be as comfortable as you are stylish in these. Share your finished look using #SimplySewingMag. YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric: 150cm wide A: size 6–12: 1.6m; size: 14–24: 2m B: size 6–12: 2.1m; size 14–24:…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

Sign up to our newsletter to download your digital copy of Beginner's Guide to Embroidery – worth £9.99 – for free! Discover how easy it is to create beautiful embroidered hoops, samplers, toys, clothing, homewares and accessories. Build your confidence with photo guides and step-by-step instructions for every popular stitch – then choose from over 60 projects. Head over to gathered.how/bonus-gift to download yours today. Already a newsletter subscriber? You'll find the download link included in your weekly newsletter.…

PACK INCLUDES ■ Pattern sheet x1 ■ Instruction sheet YOU WILL NEED ■ Linen: 1mx110cm ■ Strap fabric: 50x110cm ■ Lightweight wadding: 50x110cm ■ Lightweight interfacing: 50x110cm ■ Eyelets, 10cm diameter: x4 ■ Eyelet tool ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm throughout unless otherwise stated FABRICS USED ■ Essex Yarn Dyed Classic Wovens Tan, by Robert Kaufman ■ Essex Sunshine, by Robert Kaufman Anna Alicia is a freelance craft-writer, designer-maker and mother based in East London, @aalicialondon. © Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing. Design by Anna Alicia. Supplied by Our Media Ltd (an Immediate Group Company), Bristol, BS1 4ST. For individual, private use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes. Not for resale. WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric: 1mx110cm…

SIZES 4-28 US 2-26 EUR 32-56 DRESS B DRESS A PACK INCLUDES ■ Pattern sheets x2 ■ Instruction sheet YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric: 3mx140cm or 3mx150cm ■ Iron-on midweight woven interfacing: 50x90cm ■ Bias binding: 3m ■ Elastic, 5mm wide: 1m ■ Matching thread ■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1cm; 5mm at front and back neckline; and 3cm at the hem. ■ Press seams open as you go. For overlocked, French or bound seams, press towards the back.■ Make sure to interface your facings or use fusing tape around the neckline. ■ Practice makes perfect, always make a toile before making your final garment. ■ Dress length from highest point of shoulder when worn is 100cm and 110cm for longer version. ■ Our model is…