Innehållsförteckning för Issue 122 från Simply Sewing

Wow! Have we got a packed issue for you this month! Not only do we have the gorgeous Havana skirt in the Capsule Wardrobe collection, but we also have this amazing cover star summer dress. The Lucia, in size range UK 6-30 can be made in two different lengths − with or without the gathered frill! This dress with an elasticated waist will see you through day to evening − dress it down with trainers or sandals or up in a pair of heels or wedges. Have you tuned into Series 10 of The Great British Sewing Bee yet? We love this BBC One hit sewing show − as you can probably guess from the exclusive interviews, keepsake booklet and pattern included with this issue! If there was ever a…

GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE 2024 Are you watching series 10 of the Great British Sewing Bee? We are loving having the sewing show back on the telly box! Have you got a favourite to win, are you trying out any of the techniques or sewing the same garments? Hop on over to our latest Sewing Bee news at our website gathered.how/sewing-bee to keep up-to-date and share your thoughts on the show. DRESSED TO IMPRESS The latest pattern drop from Sew Over It is the Maeve Blouse − the perfect workwear top! It features a rounded V-neckline, bust darts for shaping, a gentle fit on the waist and hips, interesting faux cuff sleeves and the choice of two closure styles. Get it from sewoverit.com HAND AND LOCK PATCHES Love nature and…

FRAN PYJAMAS The fashion world has recently seen a resurgence in the popularity of traditional button-down pyjama sets – and we are totally here for it! There’s nothing better than relaxing at home in a comfy pair of sophisticated PJs. This co-ord set from Closet Core Patterns combines tailored details with a slouchy fit, all finished off with a smart button front. closetcorepatterns.com FREE AND EASY An elasticated paperbag waist and slouchy fit keeps these co-ords comfortable FOR ALL SEASONS Opt for crisp cottons and linens in summer, or cosy flannels in cooler weather COLLAR AND CUFFS Tailored details give this set a smart, sophisticated feel PATTERN INSPIRATION Practice your new sewing skills with our pick of the best buttoned patterns available right now. 1 EMMI JACKET This cosy jacket…

Sign up to our newsletter to download your bonus digital copy of Sewing for Kids – worth £9.99 – for free! Inside this bumper special you'll find 50 gifts, homewares and outfits to sew for your little ones! You will find all the templates you need to create amazing sleepwear, bedroom decorations and toys. There are also fun costumes and gifts to sew. Sign up at try.simplysewingmag.com/bonus-gift. Already a newsletter subscriber? Don't worry, you'll find the link to download it in your weekly sewing newsletter.…

CAPSULE WARDROBE Nothing says summer quite like a lovely cool wrap skirt! Wear it over a swimming costume or with vest tops or T-shirts for many different looks. This is the third pattern in our summer capsule wardrobe series − and can be made in two different lengths. See more of the patterns in our brand new Capsule Wardrobe collection @SimplySewingMag and by searching #SimplySewingCapsule on Instagram. YOU WILL NEED Fabric: ■ Sizes 6–16: 2mx115cm Sizes 18–24: 3mx115cm Sizes 6–16: 2mx140cm Sizes 18–24: 2.8mx140cm■ Lightweight woven interfacing: 30x90cm■ Button: 2cm diameter■ Matching thread■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm, unless otherwise stated RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Light-to medium-weight woven fabrics with good drape, such as cotton, linen, rayon, chambray, viscose, or broderie anglasie. FABRICS USED ■ Skirt A:…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Canvas bag■ Small cotton fabric pieces■ Dark brown or black stranded cotton (we used DMC 938)■ Paper-backed fusible web■ Pencil■ Tracing paper■ Fine-tip iron transfer pen or pencil■ Chenille needle■ Scissors■ Iron NOTES ■ Download the template from gathered.how/ss-templates TRANSFER THE DESIGN Step one Trace the plain book shapes onto the paper-backed fusible web. Label them with the numbers to ensure they get placed correctly. Iron the fusible web to the back of your fabric. The spines should be on a coloured/print fabric and the pages (including book 2) on a light fabric. 01 Step two Trace the embroidery pattern onto tracing paper using an iron transfer pen/pencil. 02 Step three Peel off the paper backing from the fabric book pieces. Use the traced embroidery pattern…

MY FAVOURITE THING I taught myself to sew in my early 20s out of necessity, as I didn’t have a lot of money. My mum bought me my first machine second-hand which I still use occasionally after more than 30 years and I still try to sew as frugally and as sustainably as I can. I started a YouTube channel to share my knowledge and love of the sewing community, it’s a supportive and inclusive space where we can learn, share and grow together. I’ve now got my own sewing studio and love teaching people to sew in real life. Last year I needed a dress for my nieces wedding and, of course, I wanted to make my own! I was inspired by last year’s final of the GBSB, where…

Welcome to the latest book featuring projects from The Great British Sewing Bee. This time around, we wanted to produce a book that brought together the best of the best, in a stylish and practical way. Titled Back to Basics, the aim is to bring you all your favourites and to take home sewing back to its core: sewing garments you will love and wear year after year. I have selected garments that bring together key skills for all levels. Some of the garments, such as the Zero Waste Trousers and Fleece Jacket, are unisex in design; we also have some beautiful men’s staples, and the rest are designed as women’s patterns. The idea is that the garments together form a capsule wardrobe, from tops and dresses to coats and…

Hand sewing will come into play when you are finishing a garment: hems and fastenings such as buttons often need some hand sewing. Hand sewing needles These are the most useful hand sewing needles for dressmaking: ○ Sharps – these are medium-length needles and the most popular for general hand sewing.○ Betweens – these needles are shorter and are useful for quilting.○ Embroidery/crewel needles – these have a longer eye, which makes them very handy for hand sewing with double or quadruple thread, such as fastenings.○ Darning needles – these are generally longer, blunter needles with long eyes, used for darning but also for tacking (basting) fabrics together.○ Self-threading needle – if you have difficulty threading your hand sewing needle, these are for you. Thimble A thimble is essential for…

You can fine-tune things by comparing your measurements against key areas on the paper pattern. If you know in advance that you are a different size than the pattern allows for in certain areas, you can anticipate what adjustments you may need to make. First, make sure you understand the type of pattern you are making. For a form-fitting garment, you should expect the pattern to be only slightly bigger than your own measurements – up to about 2.5 cm (1 in.) bigger. If there’s no difference, or the pattern measurements are smaller than yours, you know you need to make some changes. Depending on the garment you’re making, you may find it useful to take some of the following measurements. 1 Around the top arm (bicep) Measure the widest…

A nod to ’90s and ’00s shapes and pop culture, these amazing trousers will make a stylish and playful addition to your wardrobe! This pattern has cargo-style pleated pockets, a fly zip front and an elasticated waist. The project is more advanced because the pockets and waistband require precision and fly front zips are quite involved. The trousers need a material with some structure, but avoid a fabric that’s too heavyweight. Materials ○ 2.2 m (2½ yd) fabric, 150 cm (60 in.) wide.○ 70 cm (27½ in.) medium-weight iron-on interfacing○ 18cm (7-in.) trouser zip○ Elastic, 3 cm (1¼ in.) wide – approx. 10 cm (4 in.) less than your waist measurement○ 2 buttons for the pockets○ 1 trouser hook and bar○ Zip foot º Basic sewing kit (see page 10)…

On the next few pages you will find all the techniques that are referenced in the projects throughout the book. Here you'll find instructions on fly zips, shirring, piping, buttonhole placement, and much more FINISHING SEAM ALLOWANCES Zigzag stitching This can be used to neaten the raw edges of seam allowances either individually or together. Once the seam is sewn, change to zigzag stitch and sew again along the raw edge of the seam allowance. Overlocking (serging) The overlocking stitch is formed of either three or four threads and neatly encases the raw edges. A four-thread overlocker will sew a straight stitch to the left, with a second straight stitch to the right, anchoring the two looper stitches that form over the edge of the fabrics interlocking them together. As…

As I type this letter (the morning after the first episode of The Great British Sewing Bee Series 10 has aired), I'm feeling so inspired! What a lovely bunch. Turn to p15 to see this year's line-up and get your hands on a pattern from the accompanying book on p21. As allies of Pride month, we're celebrating and supporting with the power of stitching, p37. We were thrilled to meet Clive Bruder, p32, to learn more about the We Sew Too movement − championing male inclusivity in the sewing world. We're celebrating 50 years of style with the re-release of the iconic DVF Vogue wrap dress, p58, and we've even got a little discount for you. Enjoy!…

The Great British Sewing Bee returns to Sunny Bank Mills in Leeds to celebrate its 10th series this year, with a dozen more stitchers competing to be named Britain’s Best Amateur Sewer. Ghosts star Kiell Smith-Bynoe – himself an alumnus of the celebrity edition of the show – takes on hosting duties while our regular presenter, comedian Sara Pascoe, is on maternity leave. Designers Patrick Grant – part of the BAFTA-nominated reality favourite from the beginning – and Esme Young are back as judges. We see the perennial favourites – Reduce, Reuse, Recycle Week, Holiday Week and Kids Week – alongside other themes. These include: sport, lingerie, design icons, diva, and India. Back to Basics Week kicks off the series with a new spin on the tasks from the very…

Sew The Lucia Dress (UK sizes 6-30) in two lengths −above the knee without the gathered frill, or mid-calf length. The Lucia has a fully lined bodice with a buttoned front. Finished off with an elasticated waist to provide some stretch so you can easily put the garment on and off, too. The shoulders feature small tabs that pull in the straps at the top of the shoulders − an elegant detail that's both practical and pretty. You'll find yourself wanting to make both version of this dress, in multiple prints! We made our samples in gorgeous Cotton Poplin and Viscose Twill fabrics from Roo-tid, for two completely different looks! Shop more fabrics at roo-tid.com, and find more summer dress patterns in our PDF pattern shop at simplysewingpatterns.etsy.com. YOU WILL…

“I went from singing 'wind the bobbin up' to actually winding the bobbin up!" My grandmother gave me a sewing machine in my early teens, which at the time I did nothing with. I had no interest in sewing. What started the desire to sew many years later, was seeing a wonderful keepsake quilt made out of baby clothes and I wanted to make one for my young children. I dusted off the sewing machine and set to teaching myself how to sew. When my children were napping or tucked away in bed, I would get the machine out, watch videos and read tutorials. I went from singing “Wind the bobbin’ up” at morning playgroups to evenings spent actually winding the bobbin up on the machine! Growing up, I had…

DRAFT YOUR OWN! ✂ YOU WILL NEED ■ Main fabric: 2m■ Matching thread■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a lightweight fabric with a good drape. FABRIC USED ■ We used flake pecan cotton viscose fabric from atelierbrunette.com TIPS & SUGGESTIONS ■ Draft with a grown-on sleeve for more arm coverage■ Add a frill or ruffle around the neck and opening■ Make in a jersey for added stretch■ Make in a sweatshirt or terry knit for a cosier version TAKING MEASUREMENTS Step one Measure your bust/chest at the fullest part. Add 15-20cm to this measurement (This includes wearing and design ease, and seam allowance) then divide by 2. This will give you your W measurement. Step two Measure from the top of your shoulder, over your bust/chest at the fullest…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Lightweight cotton fabric: 115cm wide x 4m■ Elastic: 1cm wide x 150cm■ Cotton tape: 2cm wide x 2m■ Basic sewing kit CUTTING OUT Step one Downoad and print your pattern from gathered.how/sewing-downloads. Cut out and stick together along the dashed lines. Step two Fold the fabric right sides (RS) together matching selvedges. Step three You need to cut out four of the pattern pieces as the front and back of the dress are the same. Pin the pattern piece on your fabric, following the marked grainlines. Cut round it to make two pieces then repin it below and cut round it to make another two pieces Step four Mark the waistline shown on the pattern with a small notch on the side edges Step five On…

HOW TO MEASURE YOURSELF ACCURATELY ALWAYS MEASURE YOURSELF BEFORE you choose a pattern size to cut out. The sizes do vary greatly from pattern to pattern, so it’s always best to measure yourself accurately and then refer to the pattern’s size chart to find your size. The chart will usually be printed on the pattern envelope or on the instructions inside. Measure yourself in your underwear and preferably in the bra you’ll be wearing underneath your garment as this can alter the measurements slightly. Use a fabric tape measure as it’ll curve around your body well for accuracy. You can measure on your own if you stand in front of a mirror, but, for best results, ask a friend to help so they can check the tape measure is sitting…

There are many tools for dressmaking. I've put an asterisk next to those that I consider to be essential; the others are nice to have, but you can add to your kit as and when you feel you need to. CUTTING TOOLS * Shears/dressmaking scissors are typically bigger than paper scissors so that you can achieve nice long cuts when cutting out fabric. * Rotary cutter – use for tricky, slippery fabrics, jerseys and for cutting out multiple fabric layers at the same time. A bigger blade will be great for straight edges, but for curves use a smaller blade or switch to scissors. * Snips are for snipping off threads and snipping into seam allowances and tricky corners. Pinking shears can be used to finish a seam allowance for…

You may be a different size in different areas of your body – for example, a size 16 on the bust and waist, but a size 18 on the hips. If you already know this is the case, you can go ahead and ‘grade’ between sizes before cutting out your pattern. What this means is combining different sizes by drawing a smooth line from one size of cutting line to the next. For example, you might grade the pattern outline from a size 16 on the bust and waist, out to a size 18 by the time the pattern hits the hip line. Grading between sizes can’t be done indefinitely: I wouldn’t recommend grading a difference of three or more sizes. If your measurements have a difference of three sizes…

A fly zip is similar in construction to a lapped zip – it just has an additional shield stitched on the inside. In women’s trousers (shown here), the fly typically fastens right over left (from the wearer's perspective); in men’s trousers, it’s left over right. The key components of a fly zip are: Fly facing The facing covers the zip from view. In some patterns it is cut as a separate piece, as shown here; in others, the facing is an extension of the centre front and is simply folded back. Fly guard This double layer of fabric sits between you and the zip and is sewn into the left-hand side of the fly, extending underneath the opening. It stops the zip teeth from catching on your skin when you…

DRESS A DRESS B PACK INCLUDES ■ Pattern sheet x 2 (Tracing required)■ Instruction sheet YOU WILL NEED ■ Fabric Dress A*: Main fabric: 2.8mx140cm Lining fabric: 1mx140cm Dress B: Main fabric: 2.6mx115cm or 2.3mx140cm Lining fabric: 1.2mx115cm or 1mx140cm ■ Buttons: three 25mm■ Clear elastic: 1.5mx9mm wide■ Matching thread■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Use a 1.5cm seam allowance unless otherwise stated.■ *Dress A can only be made with 140cm or wider fabric. FABRIC SUGGESTIONS ■ Lightweight woven fabrics such as linen blends, cotton lawn, crepe or rayon. Shop more of our Simply Sewing patterns in our online shop at simplysewingpatterns.etsy.com BODY MEASUREMENTS WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING © Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing. Supplied by Our Media Ltd, Bristol, BS1 4ST. For individual, private use only and not for commercial…

CLIVE BRUDER Clive along with partner Mark Francis (The Great British Sewing Bee 2020) is an independent pattern designer and business owner. Read all about his sewing journey and how he founded the We Sew Too movement on page 32. LAUREN TEDSTONE Lauren was a quarterfinalist on series 9 of the Great British Sewing Bee. Known for her classic, timeless, mindful approach to sewing, Lauren loves sewing key pieces for her and her children. Find out more about what inspires her on page 48. PAULA STEEL Paula Steel is a pattern designer, technical editor and author of Modern Rainbow Patchwork Quilts, published by White Owl. Visit her website at paulasteelquilts.com and turn to page 37 for the pattern to make her amazing rainbow quilt. AMY SCARR Amy is the UK…

With Season 10 of BBC One's The Great British Sewing Bee in full swing, we're delighted to be able to bring you this exclusive keepsake from the book that accompanies the series. In this preview 36-page publication we've bagged access to a digital version of the Cargo Pants which you can try at home for free. Turn to page 20 in the booklet to see get hold of your PDF pattern. Keep up with all the Sewing Bee news with our dedicated episode guide at gathered.how/sewing-bee and follow us on socials @SimplySewingMag.…

The sewing space is often credited with being a welcoming and warm space for all. It is a place to express creativity, improve mental health and find community. But it is so important that as sewists we think about how we can make this space more inclusive for minority groups. Clive was one such sewist who has started a movement to create space for everyone. STARTING A MOVEMENT Clive Bruder, along with partner Mark Francis (The Great British Sewing Bee 2020), is a pattern designer and business owner. Together, Clive and Mark travel the country with their business going to shows, teaching and doing talks. But Clive saw a real need to encourage minority groups in the sewing space and soon the We Sew Too movement was born. “Around three…

YOU WILL NEED ■ A pre-ironed plain white t-shirt■ A sheet of water soluble fabric stabiliser (such as Sulky Sticky Fabri-Solvy or DMC Magic Paper)■ An extra fine water erasable pen■ 12cm embroidery hoop■ Thread - light pale yellow (745), mid beige (739), light terracotta (758), rose pink (760), pale lilac (26), light aubergine (28) STITCHES USED ■ Backstitch■ Satin stitch NOTE ■ Download the template from gathered.how/ss-templates TRANSFER THE DESIGN Step one Trace the design onto the stabiliser and cut around it, leaving roughly 1.5cm around each edge. Work out where you want the words to be stitched, and then peel off the backing paper and stick it onto the t-shirt. Place the inner ring of your hoop inside the t-shirt, position it around the design, place the outer…

Did you know? By 1975, DVF was making 15,000 wrap dresses a week. The DVF wrap dress has been worn by thousands of women, and hundreds of celebrities. It was created in all types of colourful patterns and fabrics. By 1975, DVF was making 15,000 wrap dresses a week. Now Vogue Patterns and DVF have re-released their wrap dress pattern from the archives to celebrate the 50th anniversary of this classic and iconic design. A BRIEF HISTORY OF DVF We’re stepping back in time to when Diane von Furstenberg launched her iconic jersey dress design, a silhouette that has persisted over the years since the stylish 1970s! Born Diane Halfin, daughter of a Holocaust survivor, she was raised in Belgium, and married a European prince before moving to New York…

YOU WILL NEED ■ Grey faux fur fabric 100x50cm■ Ivory faux fur fabric 55x45cm■ Beige plush fabric 26x15cm■ Black wool felt 12x8cm■ Beige wool felt 2x2cm■ Ivory wool felt 5x4cm■ White stranded cotton■ Polyester toy filling 250g■ Basic sewing kit FABRICS USED ■ Faux fur fabric in Black Frost and Ivory (From Oh Sew Crafty)■ Smooth Cuddle Plush in Latte (From Shannon Fabrics) NOTES ■ Find the templates on page 77 or download from gathered.how/ss-templates.■ Templates include 6mm seam allowances, unless otherwise indicated.■ Cut pair = cut mirror image.■ Fabric measurements are given width first, then height.■ Arrows on the templates indicate direction of the plush pile.■ Remove tacking stitches after sewing.■ Size, approximately 41cm tall. CUTTING OUT Step one Download and print the templates. Step two Place and pin…

KOALA TOY PAGE 67 ACTUAL SIZE KOALA TOY PAGE 67 ACTUAL SIZE KOALA TOY PAGE 67 ACTUAL SIZE KOALA TOY PAGE 67 ACTUAL SIZE Thank you for making these projects from Simply Sewing. The copyright for these templates belongs to the designer of the project. They work hard to create projects for you to enjoy, so please don’t re-sell or distribute their work without permission. Please do not make any part of the templates or instructions available to others through your website or a third party, or copy it multiple times without our permission. Copyright law protects creative work and unauthorised copying is illegal. We appreciate your help.…

The three measurements used by pattern companies in their size descriptions are bust/chest, waist and hip. You will find two measurement charts on a commercial sewing pattern: one is the body measurements table (BMT) and the other is the finished garment measurements table (FGMT). The BMT tells you that the garment is designed to fit someone with those measurements. It says something about the overall size and shape of person that the pattern is designed for, but nothing about the pattern itself. A pattern made to your body measurements would produce some kind of form-fitting bodysuit with no room to breathe or move, which is not very useful! The FGMT, on the other hand, indicates the bust, waist and hip of the completed garment, which can tell you a little…

From the brand new book to accompany Series 10 of the BBC One TV show The Great British Sewing Bee, we’re bringing you this exclusive PDF pattern to download and try at home. When the Simply Sewing team first received their copy of The Great British Sewing Bee: Back to Basics, we were delighted to see such a variation of patterns and projects to sew, but these on-trend cargo pants were an instant hit with the team! With a relaxed wide-leg fit, elasticated waistband and useful pockets − they’re the ultimate in comfort and style. What’s best, there are a few really handy sewing techniques you’ll be able to learn such as how to insert a fly zip and create patch pockets − skills you’ll be able to add to…

Button placement can make all the difference between an off-the-peg garment and a bespoke garment. Here's how to get a professional fit at home. 1 Lay your finished blouse flat and mark the waist point and bust point along the centre front. There should always be a button on these two points, as these are the areas where the garment pulls the most. Mark your next button at the very top of the centre front. 2 Then mark the position of the remaining buttons in between the top and bust button, and in between the bust and waist. The buttons don’t have to all be equally spaced. Prioritise getting equal distances where you can, but you can position the buttons a bit closer to the two stress points (bust/chest and…

SKIRT A SKIRT B PACK INCLUDES ■ Pattern sheet x 2 (Tracing required)■ Instruction sheet YOU WILL NEED Fabric: ■ Sizes 6–16: 2mx115cm Sizes 18–24: 3mx115cm Sizes 6–16: 2mx140cm Sizes 18–24: 2.8mx140cm■ Lightweight woven interfacing: 30x90cm■ Button: 2cm diameter■ Matching thread■ Basic sewing kit NOTES ■ Seam allowance is 1.5cm, unless otherwise stated RECOMMENDED FABRICS ■ Light-to medium-weight woven fabrics with good drape, such as cotton, linen, rayon, chambray, viscose, or broderie anglasie. Shop more of our Simply Sewing patterns in our online shop at simplysewingpatterns.etsy.com BODY MEASUREMENTS CAPSULE WARDROBE WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING © Printed in the UK for Simply Sewing. Supplied by Our Media Ltd, Bristol, BS1 4ST. For individual, private use only and not for commercial or manufacturing purposes. Not for resale. WWW.GATHERED.HOW/SIMPLYSEWING © Printed in the UK for Simply…