I arrived in Srinagar, the summer capital of Indian-controlled Kashmir, on August 1, and the next day, the government ordered tourists, nonresident students, and Hindu pilgrims to leave immediately. While the state’s governor warned Kashmiris not to engage in “rumormongering,” residents knew something big was coming. In just a few hours, families spent all they could spare on fuel, rice, cooking gas, flour, and other essentials.
When Kashmir’s 8 million residents awoke on August 5, they found themselves without cell phone, landline, Internet, or cable television services. About 12 hours after the blackout, Narendra Modi’s administration revoked Article 370 of India’s Constitution, wiping out the region’s autonomy.
Srinagar immediately became a razor wire city. Paramilitary and militarized police appeared at every intersection, blocking crossings, roads, bridges, and highways with coils…