Innehållsförteckning för February 2019 från Wanderlust

New year, new travel plans. If you are anything like us at Wanderlust Towers, you will have made the resolution to travel even more this year. To make your decisions easier (or maybe harder!), we have compiled our annual shortlist of best new trips from some of the most respected tour operators around. Turn to page 54 for a wealth of inspiration and start plotting. I’ll definitely be going to Georgia this year (find out how to join me on p88), but my own wishlist for the next couple of years now includes the Maldives (p108), KwaZulu Natal (p38) and El Salvador (p126), having read each of the articles in this issue. My personal New Year’s resolution is not to get so jealous of the trips that our writers take,…

Frozen planet Just before my recent trip to Antarctica, we joked the ship would run aground and get stuck in the ice. Well, it did, in Wilhelmina Bay – but deliberately. We spotted penguins and Weddell seals there, and even managed a quick game of rugby before 26 passengers, including me, took the polar plunge and jumped into the icy waters. On the way home, I flew to El Calafate, Argentina, and visited the Perito Moreno glacier. Even though I had seen fabulous icebergs in Antarctica, there is something special about this glacier and it shouldn’t be missed. If you have time (and money), include a stop at Iguazú Falls, which I went to on my last trip to Argentina, a country blessed with some of the most spectacular scenery…

A heavenly night’s sleep A new project is making Japanese temple stays easier to book. Shukubo (temple lodgings) let visitors experience the traditional lives of monks and priests; but until recently, such stays often had to be booked in person, usually in cash and in Japanese. Now, via the Terahaku project, you can view and book properties online in English, with a choice of temples – and plans to add more – ranging from a valley shrine in Kyoto to a temple at the foot of an active volcano in Kumamoto. Stays cost £20-140pppn; en.terahaku.jp COME AND SAY HELLO We’re hitting the road. Join us at London’s Adventure Travel Show (19›20 Jan), where Wanderlust’s editors in-chief and at-large, Lyn Hughes and Phoebe Smith, will fine-tune your prose in our ever-popular…

There’s treasure to be had in the heart of the Med. The trio of islands that make up the Maltese archipelago might just be a three-hour flight, but the short-haul destination offers sunshine all year around. Regardless of season, you’ll find adventure, history and an events calendar that barely pauses for breath. Travellers in the know rave about everything from its food, history and sculpted bays to the gin-clear waters and culture. Oh, and about that sunshine: there are over 300 days of it annually. Year-round destinations don’t come more perfectly formed. WINTER WONDERS UNESCO-listed Valletta might have almost half a millennium  of history under its belt – and streets full of grand period buildings to show for it – but it’s buzzy, explorable and as cultured a European capital…

Vital statistics Province capital: Pietermaritzburg (biggest city: Durban) Province population: 11.3 million Language: Zulu, English, Afrikaans, Xhosa Time: GMT+2 International dialling code: +27 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days Money: South African rand (ZAR), currently around ZAR19 to the UK£ When to go November–March (summer): The hottest and wettest months; turtles nest along the coast. April–May (autumn): Cooler temperatures; rainfall decreases. This time is good for Drakensberg hikes, with fewer storms, green landscapes and full waterfalls. June–October (winter & spring): Dry and pleasantly cool (although often cold in the mountains), with great game-viewing. Humpbacks migrate along the coast at this time. Health & safety Contact your GP for vaccination advice – DTP and hepatitis A are generally recommended. There is low to no…

ACTIVE ADVENTURES Unforgettable trips to get your adrenaline flowing, thighs sighing and hearts soaring NAMIBIA Tickle your taste buds off the beaten track Soak up southern Africa’s wines, wildlife and wilderness on ATI Holidays’ Namibia: Walking and Wine Tasting trip. The journey begins in Windhoek and meanders south-west to the Naukluft Mountains, where the clop of mountain zebras and klipspringer antelopes echo on hikes or horseback through spectacular gorges. In between the red dunes and salt pans of Sossusvlei, the former German colony of Swakopmund and the rugged terrain of northern Damaraland – an area with strictly limited tourism and desert-adapted elephant and black rhino – you’ll discover age-old vineyards sustained by natural springs. Here you can enjoy a tipple among the vines and hear experts share the secrets of…

One of the stand-out scenes from the acclaimed Blue Planet II series was when a tuskfish was filmed cannily smashing clams on an anvil. This is just one of the many extraordinary, perspective-changing sequences shot by Roger Munns, a British BAFTA- and Emmy-award-winning cameraman, who bases himself in the wildlife mecca that is Borneo. It is therefore a huge privilege to have Roger join this 20-day itinerary from Borneo to Singapore. It begins in his hometown of Kota Kinabalu. There he will give you insights into his career, before joining you on a tour of Borneo’s flora and fauna highlights, including the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary, Gomantong Caves and Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. Roger will also give an exclusive underwater filming masterclass in the coral islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman…

From the peak of Cerro el Pital, El Salvador’s highest point, I could see most of the country. A curtain of cloud had lifted over tangled forests, olive green hills, lakes of deep blue and villages shimmying in heat haze. Rising out of this landscape were countless volcanoes – some just pimples, others huge. Westwards, the perfectly sculpted cinder cone of Volcán Chingo was still scarfed with morning mist. While we surveyed the dizzying scene from our 2,730m vantage point, my guide, Marbel Membreño, and I exchanged knowing glances. “A. Shithole. Country,” we drawled practically in unison. ‘A Maya village, engulfed in volcanic ash 1,400 years ago, reminded me of Pompeii’ This precise term had been Donald Trump’s reported assessment of El Salvador a few days before my arrival. Mimicking…

Vital statistics Capital: San Salvador Population: 6.3 million Language: Spanish; Náhua (by some indigenous groups) Time: GMT-6 International dialling code: +503 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days Money: US dollar ($), currently around $1.28 to the UK£ When to go November–April: The dry season is best for touring, sightseeing and hiking. It’s greener and lusher. May–October: Expect torrential tropical downpours, though often for only two or three hours a day. It is a bit cooler at this time. During April and October is when the waves tend to be at their best and when surfers arrive on its beaches. July–November: The annual turtle nesting season. Health & safety Do be extra careful with your valuables, especially in the capital San Salvador. Don’t carry…

Who was John Frum? It’s a long story, but during the Pacific War the US Army set up on islands across Melanesia – some of which had had little contact with outsiders, let alone modern technology. One such island was Tanna in Vanuatu… I bet John was a soldier. Not quite. The people of Tanna were so struck by the US Army’s gear that their existing belief in a messiah figure who would save them from colonialism became injected with a specifically American flavour. It’s what’s known as a ‘cargo cult’. A cargo cult? Some Pacific cultures have been known to practise rituals in the hope of bringing modern Western goods. It’s not the only one on Tanna: the Kastom people of Yaohnanen village have a cult based entirely around…

Before you arrive Don’t be fooled by its modern high-rises. Edged by the sea and a sprawling wilderness, Darwin is a frontier town. Discovered 69 years after the first European settlement of Australia, and closer to Indonesia than to other major cities in Oz, it feels like a place apart. Decimated by bombs in the Second World War, then by a cyclone in 1974, Darwin now appears to be just a cluster of concrete newish-builds and a hip waterfront. But look deeper. For instance, head to the Mindil Beach Sunset Markets (held twice weekly, during the April–October dry season) and you’ll see glimpses of the city’s diversity. Here, Aboriginal artwork sits alongside Thai massage stands and stalls filled with croc skulls and hippy-style tie-dye tees. The street food is equally…

The world’s greatest wonders don’t reveal themselves easily – you discover them. That’s what it feels like as you step inside the Phraya Nakhon cave of Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, one of a number of caverns carved into the limestone cliffs that glower over the Gulf of Thailand, 250km south of Bangkok. The route in is via rough stone steps, leading through pine forest rattling with dusky langurs and goat-like serow. As you enter the central chamber, light pours in from where the ceiling collapsed into a sinkhole long ago. It forms a magnificent natural spotlight, illuminating the cavern where a handful of trees surround the golden Kuha Karuhas pavilion. The pavilion was built in the late 19th century for the visit of King Rama V; he never…

The Valley of the Sun is aptly named. Some 300 days of blue skies toast Phoenix each year, shining down on a metroplitan area that spans two counties, a dozen cities, pine-clad mountains and a chunk of the Sonoran Desert. Where to start? A growing light rail system has opened up the city, rising almost in tandem with its foodie reputation. Desert produce that mingles Mexican and south-west flavours makes eating in Scottsdale, Arcadia and Downtown a delight. Begin in the latter at Heritage Square, where the city’s Victorian roots play out across houses dating from the 1800s. Not far away lies the Heard Museum, a powerful look at the state’s past treatment of its Native Americans, with many trips here crossing reservation land. Phoenix is a city of stories.…

Layer a rice base, sprinkle a pie-chart of flavours on top, mix it up with chopsticks (so as not to mush up the rice) and devour. It’s a dish as simple as it is appetising, yet travellers to South Korea’s will discover that the humble bibimbop is an argument in a bowl. Tales of the dish’s origins are as mixed as its toppings. Some claim it was a royal bite of choice in the early Joseon dynasty (1392–1897). Others say it was a harvest festival tradition, or that it evolved out of a dish called goldongban, a pot-luck meal eaten at lunar new year when pantries were being cleared out. But no one knows. Even when you eat it is up for grabs. Co-author of new book Korean Home Cooking…

The sun lowered and my urgency rose. I didn’t want to miss it. The road was a single-lane sinew now, climbing and twisting into the Drakensberg mountains, frustrating our progress. I kept on driving as the light slipped, the world flushed, the baboons looked on from the verge. Finally I arrived, grabbed a beer, flung open the chalet’s front door, ran straight through to its back and out onto the million-dollar terrace. Just in time. The Amphitheatre filled the view, every inch of it. It was a gargantuan castle of basalt, and I was like a minion looking up at its master’s lair – part awed, part afraid. The sun was performing its last hurrah, softening the wrinkles of this immense rock wall before disappearing to leave a looming silhouette.…

1 Drakensberg Mountains The Drakensberg range runs for 1,125km across eastern South Africa. But it’s in KwaZulu-Natal that it’s at its most dramatic, topping 3,450m and folding into impressive formations – not least the curving rock wall of the Amphitheatre. 2 iSimangaliso Wetland Park & St Lucia iSimangaliso has a higher biodiversity than Kruger. Base yourself in the town of St Lucia to take self-drive or guided safaris. There’s good land-based whale-watching at Cape Vidal and fatbiking and horse-riding on the park’s outskirts. 3 Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park Hluhluwe-Imfolozi is a top Big Five reserve. Take a self-drive safari or try its Wilderness Trails (the concept originated here) for the chance to see rhino, elephant and more on foot. 4 Kosi Bay Nature Reserve At the far north of iSimangaliso Wetland Park,…

There are few places left in Europe that can be truly labelled ‘undiscovered’ but Georgia remains one of them. Set at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, lying across a key section of the fabled Silk Road route, it is a fascinating country – both culturally and visually. As Mike Gerrard wrote in Wanderlust, ‘If I had to come up with a description for Georgia, geographically as well as culturally, it would be Middle Eastern Europe’. This 11-day small-group tour will see you visit Georgia’s cosmopolitan capital, Tbilisi, as well as the UNESCO-listed former capital, Mtskheta, the ancient cave town of Vardzia, Gori (the birthplace of Stalin), and the vineyards of Kakheti, one of the oldest wine-producing areas in the world. You will have the rare chance to travel to…

Off the sands of Southern Baja California lie some of the most dramatic wildlife experiences on Earth, but that’s not the only adventure to be found here. Away from the Cabos San Lucas resorts are also myriad islands, colonial towns and ancient rock art to explore by road trip or kayak. But to get under the skin of this area you need experience, and with nearly 40 years’ experience crafting holidays to Central and South America, specialist tour operator Journey Latin America are the experts to travelling Mexico’s wild side. HIT THE ROAD From easy-going La Paz down to bohemian Todos Santos and San José del Cabo, Southern Baja California makes for a fine road trip, giving you a taste of quintessential Mexico. Visit the charming cobbles of Loreto, where…

Music isn’t just an opportunity for people to let their hair down in the USA’s Deep South– it’s a way of life. Visitors will quickly discover that the streets of Memphis and Nashville still echo to the music of icons like Elvis Presley and Johnny Cash, while honky-tonk bars tremble with revelling locals. Now, expert tour operator Cosmos is offering you and a friend the chance to soak up the atmosphere and win a place on its nine-day Southern Sounds tour. It’s time to get those feet a-movin’. Dive into Dixieland Tune yourself in by starting in the jazz hotbed of New Orleans. Wander the Gallic landmarks of its historic French Quarter, all cast-iron balconies and airy courtyards oozing colonial charm. Be sure to also drop by St Louis Cathedral,…

The Sea of Cotés was once dubbed ‘the world’s aquarium’ by the late Jacques Cousteau for its wild waters. It’s no wonder – minke, humpback, sperm, and fin whales are all found here, with Zodiac trips out into the waters off the peninsula rewarding with close-up sightings. But that’s just one wild adventure among many on Journey Latin America’s 11-day trip to Baja California; and best of all, they’re offering you the chance to see them for yourself. Land and sea Baja California’s southern beaches are no stranger to visitors. But off its shores lies another world, and on board a weeklong cruise on the Safari Endeavor, you’ll have time to get to know it well, starting with San Francisco Island. Here, red bluffs and cacti-studded slopes make for fine…

Seeing the light Namibia “Etosha NP’s Okaukuejo Rest Camp has a watering hole that’s lit up at night, so you can watch the huge number of black rhino that congregate around it at that time.” Gemma Grimbley Make a saving Various locations “There are ways to make a safari less pricey: try self-driving, consider camping, book out of season, use local companies, and look closely at lodge inclusions, as they often include meals and game drives.” Claire White Rules of the road Botswana/South Africa “When self-driving Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park always deflate your tyres and never exceed the speed limit, as this creates dust for those following you. Try to be first out of the gate at dawn, too, as this is when the animals are wandering back from feeding or…

Porto is having a moment. I’ve lost track of how many people I know who have either been there in the past couple of years or who are planning to go soon. “It wasn’t like this ten years ago,” said one local guide. “Everyone knew about Lisbon, but not us. And we were so traditional that you could struggle to find a restaurant open on a Sunday.” One of the oldest cities in Portugal, and indeed the source of the country’s name, Porto was for centuries a centre of industry and trade, its most famous export being port wine. But now, with thanks to cheap flights, a safe reputation and a growing buzz, it has become a must-see. So, is this the perfect city for a short break? It certainly…

“The clearest way into a universe is through a wilderness forest”John Muir SHOOTING STARS Worldwide Could you take images like these? Could you capture an epic landscape, intriguing people, breathtaking wildlife or an interesting angle on a travel icon? That was the challenge photographer Paul Harris and the rest of the judging panel of the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year competition set when 2018’s edition was launched – and you can see how Paul tackles those problems on this very page. You will be able to meet Paul and see this year’s competition results (and let us know what you think in the reader’s vote) at this year’s Destinations Travel Show in London on 31 Jan–3 Feb. For more on the Wanderlust Travel Photo of…

“Exploring the epic sand dunes of Mui Ne, Vietnam – a great stop-off between Ho Chi Minh City and Dalat.” John Roley “Searching for dragons on Indonesia’s Komodo Island. As you can see, we found one and he was glorious.” Lorna Didcote “Spending time with the locals (and their loyal birds) at Mongolia’s Golden Eagle Festival.” Eloise Warrilow “Helping at feeding time at Thailand’s Maerim Elephant Sanctuary, where riding is forbidden.” @thetravelingfreelancers “Touring Iceland, pulling into a farm called Brú and encountering the most beautiful horses.” @simpleexplorer “Taking in the misty majesty of Victoria Falls, complete with magical rainbow view.” Caroline Martin “Pausing on an otherworldly black-sand plain in Indonesia’s Bromo NP, with thick fog hanging in the air.” @dazventures “Posing with the moai of Rapa Nui –the most jaw-dropping…

California doesn’t just live up to its reputation, it surpasses it. Vast and varied, sunny and glamorous, playful and pioneering, mountainous and mouthwatering, the state is a genuine superstar in its own right – the travel equivalent of a Hollywood A-lister. And just as Hollywood is where dreams are made, so a trip to  California can be whatever you want it to be. Like drinking world-class wine straight from the vineyard or hiking amid giant redwoods? Want to hang out with a sea lion colony or gallop across the chaparral like a cowboy, or take the road trip of a lifetime? You can do it all here. And more. California especially suits adventurous families, who will love the state’s combination of natural beauty, theme-park thrills and abundant activities, all accompanied…

The secret of an unforgettable travel experience? Exploring with the experts. Not only with a great guide at your side, ready to reveal your destination’s authentic treasures, but also with a top-notch tour operator, on a carefully crafted itinerary. That’s why we launched Wanderlust Journeys – a curated selection of exclusive trips, taking you all over the world in the company of the most knowledgeable and respected names in the travel industry. We partner with tour operators that we know and love, combining the very best adventure itineraries with great local guides and high-profile expert guests. And with each exclusive trip endorsed by Wanderlust, you know you’ll be in excellent company too. LATEST TRIPS Discover the hidden wonders of Malaysia with legendary cameraman Roger Munns; an off-the-beaten-track adventure in Georgia…

If you have yet to visit the unique island of Iceland then this is surely the arm-twist you need. With its thundering waterfalls, dramatic volcanoes, mighty geysers and otherworldly landscapes, Iceland continues to grow in popularity and it is not hard to see why. This seven-day small-group tour is one of the best ways to explore the island, from buzzing capital Reykjavík to the natural wonders of the Golden Circle. Added to this is the chance to do so in the company of one of Britain’s greatest mountaineers and adventurers – the irrepressible Sir Chris Bonington. As well as talking about his extraordinary adventures, he will join you in exploring this striking scenery, including a glacier walk across Vatnajökull, Europe’s biggest ice cap. It promises to be a trip to…

Submerged in 12m of water, drifting in a surreal kind of weightlessness, it was like being in outer space. I’d never known darkness so complete. I glided downwards and only realised I’d reached the bottom when my fingertips touched the coarse sand. In my other hand I clutched a torch so tightly I felt as though it might break. I took a deep breath and heard the bubbles ripple in front of my face. Then I flipped the switch. A V-shaped glow illuminated the pitch, and my entire world became that slim shot of light. At first all I saw was a murky green. But as the seconds passed, tiny, near-microscopic zooplankton began to appear, wriggling in the beam. Then I looked up to see a giant shape coming towards…

The highlight: The Inside Passage ferry trip from Port Hardy to Prince Rupert was incredible, with not only fantastic scenery but great wildlife. We saw humpbacks, porpoises and eagles. Must see: The Icefields Parkway from Jasper to Banff was a highlight, and you can easily escape the hordes by visiting the less well-known trails along the way. Peyto Lake takes your breath away when you first see it, as does Moraine Lake, which has a wonderful hike up to Larch Valley. Top tip: The public transport in Vancouver is excellent and cheap, and there is no need for expensive sightseeing buses – the local bus routes cover all needs for a fraction of the price. Cautionary tale: Plan in a few days’ rest along the way if possible. We were…

The top tip for tipping? Know your place. Local knowledge is key, as tipping customs vary worldwide: in some places (USA, Africa) it’s the norm, in others (Australia, South-East Asia) it’s appreciated but not presumed, and in others (China, South Pacific) it’s barely done at all. Genning up before you go will save you from embarrassment or causing offence when on the road. Sometimes, tipping isn’t a nicety, it’s essential to people’s livelihoods. For instance, at airports and train stations it’s customary to tip luggage porters a small amount, but in some countries this is how people make their living – your money is a payment not a tip. Or there may be a tipping system in place – a hotel may suggest you put tips into a box at…

Get orientated Today, cars stream down Friedrichstrasse unimpeded. But 30 years ago the guard hut here, at the point where Soviet East met capitalist West in Berlin, was notorious for daring escapes. Known as Checkpoint Charlie, it tells just part of a story that takes on a special meaning this year. By the 1960s the Cold War was taking its toll on East Germany. A thousand ‘Ossis’ (Easties) were fleeing the Soviet-administered German Democratic Republic (GDR) daily for the West via Berlin. To stem the tide, mines were laid all along the GDR’s eastern border. But it was in Berlin that history would be made. On 13 August 1961, a 155km wall was built overnight around Berlin’s Western enclave, dividing streets and families. It became one of the defining moments…

New Year, new you Whether it’s visiting a new destination, spotting one of Africa’s Big Five, or simply spending more time outside with nature, get all the inspiration you need for your New Year’s travel resolutions: wanderlust.co.uk/NewYearNewYou Discover Canada From wild mountain trails in British Columbia to festivals on the city streets of Toronto, Canada is home to endless adventures. Explore now: wanderlust.co.uk/DiscoverCanada Wanderlust’s 25th Anniversary From our favourite magazine covers to epic fails by staff on assignment, we reflect on 25 years of Wanderlust : wanderlust.co.uk/25Anniversary Wanderlust Journeys Journey through the Pearl of the Caucasus on an exclusive tour of Georgia with Wanderlust’s editor-in-chief, Lyn Hughes: wanderlust.co.uk/Journeys The best shows…