Innehållsförteckning för Issue 14 från White Paper by - English

We are moving into the month in which cities are glowing brighter and brighter, with out-of-control lighting in the midst of an energy crisis. It's not that I don't like the lights, but less is more. Sometimes when I see so much poor-quality lighting— some of the decorations are just beyond dreadful—I think we're going to be invaded by thousands and thousands of magpies.n I just want to see the stars, to see their sparkles, to dance under the sky as if it were one big dazzling ball. I follow in the footsteps of the sparkles that reflect in every puddle, I follow the trail of moonlight and sunlight that lead me to this issue full of stunning, dazzling, sparkling, shining and above all unique characters. Our cover took us…

The Faces That Appeared The iconic portrait of Bob Marley, the Stones strutting down Avebury Hill in 1968, the splendid Grace Jones for The Sunday Times, trumpeter Dizzy Gillespie with his cheeks about to explode in a 1981 session… All the portraits bear the seal of the moment that is the hallmark of legendary photographer David Bailey. And there are many more. When the Music Was Silent Patti Smith, Miles Davis, Duke Ellington, Paul McCartney, and many of the faces that have marked the rhythm of the music of the last sixty years are part of the exhibition Bailey: Vision and Sound, which can be enjoyed until the end of January at London's 45 Park Lane. “It's not the camera that takes the picture; it's the person" As Bailey once…

Why did you become an interior designer? Does the fact that you descend from a lineage of architects have an influence on this? I've been rearranging furniture at my parents' home pretty much since I could walk! I grew up in a family of collectors and architects and I was surrounded by beautiful objects from an early age. This has definitely had a big influence on my taste and when I started traveling and collecting myself, my vision and aesthetic became more personal and recognizable. You always claim that your style is eclectic, something you can tell from the lavish use of color and the mix of periods and styles. Does this have to do with the fact that you lived in many different cities? The city of Tangier and…

When did you first realize you had a jazz singer in you? I'm still trying to figure it out… I don't know, the truth is that it came very naturally. I was listening to all kinds of music and singers, trying to imitate them but also to develop my own voice. Music helped me find it. I never thought about pursuing jazz professionally until I got into college. I enrolled in the jazz studies program and loved it. Even though you are only 22 years old, you have been described as the successor of legends like Ella Fitzgerald or Billie Holiday. Do you feel the pressure and expectations placed on you? I did feel pressure in my early days, but I don't feel it anymore. If I put pressure on…

Time is money. And Lionel A Marca knows it. The brand new CEO of the legendary house Breguet not only has been immersed in the watchmaking profession since almost his adolescence, but is also aware of the immeasurable artistic value that the collector's historical pieces are accumulating with each passing year. And no wonder, as AbrahamLouis Breguet, the founder of the company he now manages, made it the favorite of royalty in the time of Marie Antoinette, in addition to seducing intellectuals like Baudelaire, Leo Tolstoy and Victor Hugo and statesmen such as Winston Churchill. With such credentials up his sleeve, it is hardly surprising that Lionel A Marca has no intention of trying to square the circle. We talked to him about his work as the thinking (and decisive)…

Violent conflicts of interest, displacement of the local population, exploitation of workers, and even child labor. Diamond mining has a cost beyond the material and luxury cannot look the other way. At least that's what VEINS, the French jewelry firm that manufactures diamonds with renewable energy, believes. They use HPHT and CVD production methods, so the stones are chemically, physically, and optically identical to those extracted. However, their origin is guaranteed. With a contemporary, minimalist aesthetic, the designs of the house opened in 2022 are driven by functional geometric shapes, sharp angles, and recycled gold. The multiple facets of the pieces help to naturally cast reflections and shadows while playing with the accumulation, stacking, and intricate placement of diamonds. They don't believe in trends, nor do they believe in gender…

Castile soap has one of the oldest formulations in the world. Its origin dates back to the 7th century and its secret is cold saponified olive oil. Although it is a laborious and traditional process, Home Healthy Home has revived this recipe from the past in its great commitment to the future. The goal is to be natural and simple. All ingredients are 100% biodegradable and come from organic farming. As Sixto Collazo, who has worked at Loewe Perfumes and Dior, explains, "four of the five people managing the company come from the world of luxury, which is characterized by adding value to much simpler things". Here, the exercise was to go against the grain, simplify and keep the essentials." But going back to the beginning, how did the idea…

New GILBERT & GEORGE Manifesto 1 "Our art begins in our heads, our soul and our sex" Their art actually began in 1967 when they met in the classrooms of St. Martin's School of Art in London. One of them, Gilbert Proesch, was born in Italy in 1943 and had lived in Austria and Germany before coming to England. His English was not very good and he had a strong accent that the other, George Passmore (1942), born in Plymouth, was able to understand. And how well they understood each other indeed: they soon became inseparable. Art brought them together to the point that they seemed more like Siamese twins than a mere pair of creators. They still keep their four hands and their two brains, but when it comes…

Between the catwalk and the stable, between dress and dressage… Mary Wing To is a designer who straddles between both worlds. One could also say that Mary Wing To is a designer on horseback, simply because she is. Through design and craftsmanship, she has translated her admiration for horses and the world of sensations that surrounds them into products that embody that spell. Garments that recall and recreate parts of the mythical animal or the art of dressage, equestrian sculptures, accessories that take leather to unexplored terrain, promising harnesses - soon to arrive in her collection, according to her website - and luxury whips, handmade and made to order, are some of the unique pieces that shape Mary Wing To's creative universe. Born in Manchester, the designer works from her…

Could you perhaps share with us your first memory related to art as a child? Of course. As a child, I remember visiting the Picasso museum in Antibes with my parents. We watched a Super-8 film, in a dark room, of Picasso painting a dove with a single stroke. He was painting a line on a blank sheet of paper and I remember it as something very exciting. It stayed in my mind forever, it was a defining moment for me. Has the Malaga artist's work been an influence on your work? No, I don't think so. It was influential because it was my first contact with something artistic. The sight of that brush moving in a continuous line seemed beautiful to me. Obviously Pablo Picasso was a genius, everything…

A century after her death, her name still arouses great expectations in the world of high-end jewelry. Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia, also known as Maria Pavlovna, assembled a spectacular collection of prodigious quality, in a wide variety of precious and semi-precious stones. Born Duchess Maria of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, she was originally from a former small independent state in present-day Germany. In 1874, she became part of the Russian Imperial Family when she married Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich, second son of Tsar Alexander II. As was customary in the Romanov family, the bride received as a wedding gift splendid jewels that would form the core of her future collection. With the firm intention of shining in the court of her father-in-law, then in that of her brother-in-law and later in that…

She hadn't even finished her senior year of high school. As if it were a cinematic moment, the first time Gregg Field was close to Ella Fitzgerald on stage was purely by chance. The young man had come as an audience member to a joint concert of the most iconic voice in the history of jazz and the no less legendary Count Basie, whose drummer was late. In a dreamlike fashion, he was asked to fill in for him. He did so well, that a few years later he landed a headlining spot in Basie's band and, back in 1985, Ella Fitzgerald's drummer left and Field, in his early twenties, was his replacement. "I was just a kid, but I toured with her for two years until unfortunately, she suffered…

Light, shadow, light and shadow, light against shadow, the thousands of possibilities behind light and the indecipherable nature of shadow. This resource is well known to artists who have explored it with its inexhaustible richness in very diverse manifestations throughout history: Robert Mapplethorpe was one of them. He captured its contrasts in unique photographs and made light and shadow regular subjects of his iconic images. But more than that, Robert Mapplethorpe lived on the edge, straddling the line between light and shadowin a way, he embodied them. That is why it is so thrilling to pose this game as the axis of an exhibition. That is what the Madrid gallery Elvira Gonzalez and the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation have done in Elogio de la sombra (In Praise of the Shadow), open…

Since the establishment of Guerlain's first factory, "La Savonnerie", in 1828 in the Place de I'Étoile district, just behind the Arc de Triomphe, the Maison has never left France. The creation of this luxury cosmetics firm also coincided with the opening of their first boutique in the heart of Paris, but it was not until 1914 that the legendary boutique on the Champs Elysées was inaugurated, which is now a mandatory destination for all lovers of perfumes with heritage. "Since its beginnings, Guerlain has cultivated a boutique spirit that promotes welcoming customers to share our unique know-how and a series of unforgettable experiences. The select, handpicked boutiques (there is one in Madrid) are designed like exquisite gem settings, conceived by the most talented artists and craftsmen," says Maria Borras, Guerlain's…

1999 was the year in which Michael Jordan retired from the NBA after winning his sixth ring, iconic series such as The Sopranos and The West Wing aired their first episodes, and movie theaters were filled with viewers who continue to worship films like Fight Club. But beyond twelve prolific months for pop culture, the last year of the 20th century, in which the arrival of a new millennium also awakened a certain collective nervousness, marked a before and after in areas as wide-ranging as the history of contemporary watchmaking. That was the moment when the Highlife collection of Frederique Constant saw the light of day, a more than remarkable milestone for lovers of luxury watchmaking made in Switzerland at affordable prices, the hallmark of a house that is already…

An Interior Designer on the Island In the heart of the Mallorcan mountains, surrounded by olive groves and overlooking the sea, lies La Residencia de Deiá, the island's artistic center. For years, this curious place has attracted all kinds of artists: from creative legends from around the world to others who end up residing in its workshops, helping guests develop their sculpting and drawing skills. Perhaps it is because of the large collection of artwork it hosts, present both in the interiors and in the gardens. This is how the renowned designer and interior designer as of 2018 Matthew Williamson was captivated by a location he considers ideal for "retreat, relaxation and enjoyment", although this was not the case for him personally. This was the first global interior design project…