Innehållsförteckning för February 2016 från Wilderness

I’m plodding up a mountain, sweat trickling from my temples in tiny rivulets, my sunglasses steaming up and my shirt sticking to my back. Dorota, way ahead of me, is walking steadily, confidently, hands on her hips to keep her armpits ventilated. When we stand next to each other, the top of her head is barely above my shoulder and she must be at least 10kg lighter than me, yet her pack is the same size as mine and her pace faster. We are heading for Gillespie Pass on the east side of the formidable looking Mt Awful, 2192m. Below, the Young River, like a silver ribbon, winds through the valley floor. I grab anything I can – rocks, hebes, tussock – to pull myself up the near-vertical wall. The…

When the weather’s good, camping above the bushline is a treat. It’s even better when the tops are capped with snow. CHOOSE YOUR SITE Your tent site should be in stable snow, safe from snow sloughs, and sheltered from the prevailing wind. Face the entrance away from the wind for a warmer tent and efficient cooking. PREPARING Even in soft snow, a snow shovel will make levelling a site nice and quick. Stomping and distributing snow with your boots also works. PITCHING Don’t bother with regular tent pegs. I find it useful to have 1.5m lengths of cord attached to my main peg points and tied around loose or exposed rocks and branches. Your ice axe, buried crampons, shovel handle, walking poles or a buried stuff sac filled with snow…

No New Zealand cycle trail has a track packed in so much history, so many massive swingbridges and so much good riding, as the 85km Pureora Timber Trail. From the old logging town of Pureora at the northern end, the track winds its way through a tongue of bush where the bird life is amazing. Great views over the Hauhungaroa Ranges appear by magic from the high point of the track below Mt Pureora, followed by a legendary downhill to Piropiro. There are shelters and toilets along the way and at the halfway point a campsite. Or a short detour will have you at Black Fern Lodge which offers food and accommodation. Next up is one of New Zealand's longest and highest swingbridges, then a short climb followed by seemingly…

The very last time in the bush with my dad was on Rakiura Stewart Island where we walked through the lush forest that surrounds Oban: days of kaka hopping about on the balcony, fresh fish caught from a boat, and the wonder of near-extinct species flying free on Ulva Island. Like many, I’ve poured over maps of the Tin Range, Port Pegasus and wondered why they called those granite knobs Gog and Magog. Likewise I’ve mapped out the time I’d need to complete the Northern Circuit. I’m told the track is rugged and the huts are welcome, and if you have the knack you can enjoy fresh seafood every night. This island, where kakapo have been brought back from the brink, of wild coastlines, and the country’s youngest National Park,…

Do you find your summer tramping trips are too scheduled, sandwiched between airplane flights or the restrictions of annual leave and statutory holidays? Perhaps a week working for DOC as a hut warden might be the ticket. Somewhere you can slow down, drink in the views and relax. A place to call your own for a few days, without the need to move on each day. While the Great Walks have their full-time, paid wardens over the summer season, there are many other corners of the backcountry where you can volunteer. In the North Island you can be the resident guardian at such memorable locations as Egmont National Park, the Tararuas, or at Waitawheta Hut in the Kaimai Range. In the South Island, you have options at Nelson Lakes, the…

Like many trampers, I considered myself something of a weekend warrior, accustomed to fitting in as much tramping as possible between 6pm Friday and 10pm Sunday. I had it down to a fine art: takeaways en route the first night, a gourmet dinner the second night, and finally a hot shower at home on Sunday night. It was a tried and tested formula that worked well, with the occasional long weekend thrown in for variety. The problem with tried and tested formulas is they don’t handle change particularly well. When offered the opportunity to spend 11 days tramping between Otira near Arthur’s Pass and Windy Point on SH73, my first thought was a fervent ‘no’. However, the tramping guidebook sitting on my bookshelf mocked me. ‘Go,’ it said. ‘You’ve always…

FLAT OUT On easy terrain, poles help increase stride and speed. When planting your poles, your elbows should be at a 90-degree angle (or thereabouts), and the pole should land with the top pointing backwards. This should be comfortable and provide the leverage to maintain momentum. UPS AND DOWNS When the terrain gets trickier, your poles are more for balance than speed. They should land more upright than on the flat, acting as your third and fourth legs. On ascents, shorten the poles and on descents lengthen them, so your elbows are still at 90-degrees, or whatever feels most comfortable for you to push off from. Some poles have an extended grip, so rather than shorten the pole, simply adjust your grip. GET A GRIP When used correctly, the strap…

Rips are powerful, channelled currents of water flowing away from shore and can occur at any beach with breaking waves. They most typically form at low spots or breaks in sandbars, and also near structures such as groynes, storm water pipe outlets and around rocky headlands. Rip currents can be very narrow or hundreds of metres wide. Sometimes the rip ends just beyond the line of breaking waves, but it can also continue to push hundreds of metres offshore. The steeper the beach, the closer to shore the rip current will stop pulling. HOW TO SPOT A RIP IF YOU’RE CAUGHT Don’t try to swim against a rip, as this will tire you out very quickly. If surf lifesavers are present, float on your back, yell for help and wave…

EXPED SYNMAT HYPERLITE $179.90 SWISS COMPANY EXPED’S foray into outdoor products has been wide-ranging; their tents, packs and sleeping mats in particular have a reputation for being lightweight products of effective design that are also affordable. Their sleeping mat range includes everything from base camp oriented deluxe mats to lightweight/high R-value (a measure of insulation) expedition mats to ultralight offerings for gram-counting users. Exped’s most recent offering fits the latter category: it’s a 350g 3-season mat that packs down to the size of a one-litre water bottle, yet is amply plush and comfortable enough for a decent night’s sleep. Gone are the days of using thin ¾-length mats and accepting marginal comfort to save weight. I’ve been using an equivalent product for a couple of years now and am a…

When I visit Geoff Spear-point at his Birdlings Flat home, a southerly storm is in full swing and the clock on the wall shakes whenever a colossal wave hits the beach. It might seem strange that Spearpoint, so well-known for his connection with the hills, would choose to live a stone’s throw from the ocean. Yet to him, the appeal is simple. “It’s actually a wonderful counterpoint to the mountains,” he says. “Being based on the coast for a life in the hills is a wonderful balance.” Spearpoint’s love affair with the mountains started nearly 50 years ago in the Hutt Valley. As part of a youth group he ascended Climie, an 862m hill in the Rimutaka Range. “Getting up Climie was a revelation to me,” he says. “From there…

Also – great prizes for the winners of these categories: 1. Out there The wilderness photos that make you go ‘wow’. The prize: KEEN Durand Mid WP tramping boots 2. Huts and camping The uniqueness of hut life and location, or the perfect camping spot. The prize: The North Face Triarch 2 tent 3. Wildlife Your best shots of NZ’s flora and fauna. The prize: Bushnell H20 10x25mm binoculars 4. Video A short video (3min max) of NZ’s great outdoors The prize: A Lowe Alpine Manaslu pack FULL ENTRY DETAILS AT www.wildernessmag.co.nz…

Westport is a town that loves big projects. Especially projects that dig up the earth and blast the rock. This is not surprising when you consider the history of mining, ports, railways and big engineering works. So when our mayor suggested a tourist highway through the middle of Kahurangi National Park, he got a lot of local backing. And it’s not just the ‘big project’ appeal of a highway that generated this support. Westport people are prone to ‘cargo cult’ thinking – that by building a jetty or an airstrip (or indeed a highway) that goods will automatically arrive on your doorstep. Cargo cults were first recorded in Melanesia after the Second World War. Many island communities had never seen a foreigner before, they didn’t know about jeeps, uniforms or…

Call it the long axis to glory. A traverse of an entire range is more than just a tramp; it’s a novel. It tells its story through time, place and character. Even if the setting is familiar, a traverse takes you to a place you’ve never been before. The word itself is endowed with power. It’s a true mountaineering word, like crevasse. It sounds cold, tough, in need of considered preparation. It evokes epic journeys, tales of tears, blood, torment and maybe a touch of elation. To have traversed is to have lived. Crossings get the guide book write-ups. A couple of days swimming against a rip and hauling yourself out. But a traverse is like being adrift in an ocean, floating with the current, taking whatever comes your way.…

Tarns offer the perfect balance of everything a tired tramper could wish for after a hard day. Besides being convenient supplies of drinking water, they are great camping destinations with flat ground on which to pitch your tent. Tarns are also more sheltered than a summit and normally offer better views than a valley camp. Tired trampers can cool their feet or, if so inclined, jump in for a skinny dip. Most importantly, you don’t have to be an expert bushman to find a nice watering hole. Some lonely mountain lakes are easy to reach from nearby tracks. Give it a try and be a tarn-bagger. Sit back with your feet in the water and enjoy the sunset. The raw beauty of a place where land meets water will put…

We’ve seen it many times – that amazing image of a pristine view that just seems to scream: “Come here!” Fiordland is spoilt for such views, and because of this, outdoor enthusiasts tend to put it in the over-hyped tourism category. By definition, a place where everyone goes is not that much out of the ordinary. My Fiordland is a little different. It doesn't involve any time in Te Anau or Milford Sound. Rather, it’s go west and see where the land allows you to cross, and where it doesn’t! There are endless valleys, rugged gorges and narrow passes that stretch in all directions. It’s topo map after topo map of untracked green forest. If it’s wilderness you want to experience, and not just read about, then Fiordland is a…

Setting forth into the wilderness has a distinct biblical ring to it, but for whatever reason you remove yourself from the bustle and stress of everyday life, there is nothing to compare with shouldering a pack and leaving it all behind. And there are few countries as good as New Zealand to experience real wilderness. The country boasts nine officially recognised ‘Wilderness Areas’; land almost completely undisturbed by man-made structures, such as huts, bridges, formed tracks and the otherwise ubiquitous orange triangles or snow waratahs. Not to say you won’t come across the occasional mossy cairn or a bit of marker tape, but generally these places are fairly pristine, meaning you have to rely on all your accumulated bush and mountain skills to travel safely through them. In such relatively…

AWARD WINNING RANGE LANDS IN NZ Good news for those looking for a new pack. A total of 83 new models of Lowe Alpine packs landed in New Zealand at the end of January. The range includes the AirZone Pro, which won a prestigious OutDoor Industry Award in July last year in recognition of its standards of design and innovation. Lowe Alpine says the AirZone Pro has one of the most breathable air-back systems in the world and the latest version is lighter and more comfortable and breathable than before. TRAMPING COMMUTES AREN’T WHAT THEY USED TO BE Seasoned trampers who remember tired arms and a sore coccyx after clinging and bouncing for hours on the back of a metal-floored ute, may well laugh at the luxury of the modern-day…

SEND YOUR PIX Get your photo published here to receive the Light My Fire ‘Pack-up-Cup’. This compressible 260ml cup keeps drinks warm and protected from dirt and bugs with its tight and secure lid. Just fold it out and fill it up. More details at ampro.co.nz. Last Weekend submission criteria at wildernessmag.co.nz…

With their petite, adorable facial features amplified by the ‘whiskers’ protruding from the base of their bill, I find tomtits to be one of the cutest New Zealand birds. Their curious and inquisitive nature also makes them endearing. The male has a black head, back and wings with a white wing bar and a white belly, and a distinct white spot at the base of the upper part of the bill. The only difference between the South Island and North Island males is a yellow/orange band across the breast on the southern variety. Females are brown over the head, back and wings, and a fawn colour on the upper chest which fades to white on the belly. Tomtits are found from Northland to Stewart Island, particularly in the forests of…

Mungo Hut is not an easy place to get to, but once there you’re in the heart of some spectacular country. The easiest way is up the Toaroha Valley and over Toaroha Saddle to Poet Hut. From Poet it’s a 3-4hr tramp up the Mungo River, followed by a short haul up a spur to the tussock clearing where Mungo sits. The upper Mungo River is one of the prettiest places in the Hokitika backcountry and it terminates in Hokitika Saddle. In early season, the couloir down from the saddle into Canterbury is usually chock full with snow and this makes for fast and easy travel to the east. Originally built in 1962, this hut replaced an older 1950s Department of Internal Affairs hut. The hut received only sporadic maintenance…

We’ve all heard stories of the weather-beaten 103-year-old Russians, who attest their longevity to regular swims in frigid waters. Although the evidence for cold-water’s effect on your lifespan is anecdotal at best, what is known is that nothing makes you feel truly alive like taking an alpine dip – and New Zealand has the best place to do it. Just west of Makarora, in Mt Aspiring National Park, lies Crucible Lake, a crystal clear lake ensconced in the Mt Alba massif. Three sides of the lake are formed by the mountain’s flanks, which rise directly out of the lake for more than a kilometre. This quirk of topography means that even in the height of summer the water is dotted with icebergs, recently fallen from the glaciers above. After a…

For many Kiwi trampers, visiting an ice plateau as part of a trans-alpine trip is an important goal in their outdoor career. Names like the Olivine, Bracken Snowfield, and Gardens of Eden and Allah have an almost mythological reputation, speaking of remoteness and adventure. A large, flat glacier, set among a fortress of peaks, offers an almost irresistible challenge. All of these ice plateaus lie within wilderness areas, where flying is prohibited, so reaching them will require skill, perseverance and reasonable weather. The Bracken Snowfield Approaches up either the Rakaia, Whitcombe or Wanganui rivers are reasonably arduous and involve multiple fords. Once there, you’re rewarded with alpine terrain par excellence, dominated by the highest peaks in the central Southern Alps, Mt Evans and Whitcombe. The Gardens of Eden and Allah…

Join Ngati Porou whanau and visitors for the annual 4WD journey to the site of nine carvings in time for New Year’s day. This wonderful experience allows you to share the occasion, ceremony, and an excellent kai, as well as an opportunity to learn what each carving represents. At any other time of the year, trampers are free to climb Mt Hikurangi. At 1752m, it’s by far the largest mountain in the region and the views are tremendous. Hikurangi Hut, situated just shy of the 1200m mark, makes a dawn trip to the summit more feasible, from where you can see the sun lift gloriously from the Pacific Ocean.…

A prerequisite for a romantic getaway is a willing partner, so beware of persuading a newcomer to the outdoors to accompany you on a 12-hour West Coast bush-bash. Or if you do, don’t expect such a warm reception upon arrival. Crowded huts, excessive sandflies (and hut rats) are also a bad start. Aim for comfortable, scenic camping spots, or if heading for a hut, ensure it’s a less frequented one. Apart from the very height of summer, a fireplace or wood burner is an essential requirement for that evening ambiance. Platform bunks are a valuable bonus, although the majority of the smaller and cosier huts are only equipped with ‘bachelor bunks’. If aiming to impress, be prepared to carry a heavy pack loaded with goodies for dinner – two-minute noodles…

Water chooses the easiest path through rugged country, and it’s all downhill. What could be simpler than floating downstream on a raft or in a canoe? Rapids, gorges, snags and floods might add complications, but paddling offers a comparatively easy way to travel through a wilderness. No more so than the mighty Motu, which wends its way through every point of the compass as it forges through the Raukumara Range, the North Island’s most rugged area. Extremely remote, heavily gorged, and with no easy escape, the Motu is not to be trifled with, but does offer moderate paddling (Grade 2-4). Five men completed the first descent in 1920; they began with three boats and finished with two. Nowadays, several companies offer commercial rafting trips lasting three or four days. En…

Whether it’s the ancient remnants of far higher Scottish ranges rising out of the storm-swept Atlantic, or the more recent Southern Alps, the juxtaposition of mountain and ocean always has an aesthetic appeal. The island of Corsica, nestled between the curved, sensual coastline of southern France and northern Italy offers this pleasing combination of rugged granite mountains and the clear warm waters of the Mediterranean. Western Europe is well endowed with a huge range of hiking trails that criss-cross the diverse landscapes of this geographically remarkable part of the world. In France, of which Corsica is a political department, the great walks and hikes are referred to as ‘Grandes Randonnées’, or more commonly ‘GRs’. These long distance footpaths can be a gentle stroll in the woods on the outskirts of…