Innehållsförteckning för November 30, 2020 från Wine Spectator

Now In Our IGTV Archives OCT. 20 Andy Erikson, Napa Cabernet winemaker and co-owner of Favia winery OCT. 13 Piero Antinori, president of Italy’s Marchesi Antinori OCT. 8 Philippe Pascal, owner of Burgundy winery Cellier aux Moines OCT. 6 Rick Tigner, president and CEO of Jackson Family Wines OCT. 1 Charles Springfield, sommelier, educator and author of Maneuvering Rosé Wine With Style SEPT. 22 Rajat Parr, somm, author and partner at California’s Domaine de la Côte and Sandhi and Oregon’s Evening Land SEPT. 15 Lamberto Frescobaldi, president of historic Tuscan wine giant Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi SEPT. 10 Cathy Corison, owner of Napa’s Corison Winery and an alum of Chappellet, Rombauer and Staglin WATCH ON INSTAGRAM Scan the QR code to start watching on our IGTV channel, or visit instagram.com/wine_spectator/channel…

When most wine lovers think of Piedmont, Barolo and Bar-baresco are what come to mind. Both have earned repu-tations as world-class wines in terms of flavors, character, complexity and age-ability. Both are made from Nebbi-olo—the region’s red grape with the greatest potential and the variety be-hind the wines of Gattinara, Ghemme, Carema and Lombardy’s Valtellina. Piedmont’s whites consist of interna-tional varieties such as Chardonnay, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, and a handful of local grapes such as Arneis, Cortese, Favorita and Nascetta. Enter Timorasso. The thick-skinned, aromatic white grape was nearly for-gotten, partly because it grew in the little-known Colli Tortonesi, about an hour east of Barolo and Barbaresco, bordering Lombardy and Liguria. Even there, it was replaced with peach and pear orchards and the more economi-cal Barbera and Cortese grapes.…

The Wine Spectator Scholarship Foundation, (WSSF) founded in 1982, was created to sup-port educational institutions and philanthropic organizations that assist those passionate about careers in the wine and hospitality industries. The foundation’s principal source of support is Wine Spectator’s New York Wine Experience; all net proceeds from this annual event are de-voted to the foundation. To date, the WSSF has raised more than $20 million. University of California, Davis, has received a combined $4 million for scholarships and re-search grants to students in the Department of Viticulture and Enology. In 2013, the foundation donated $1 million to Florida International Uni-versity’s Chaplin School of Hospitality & Tourism Management, a leading institution for food and beverage education. Most recently, $3 million was given to fund the Wine Spectator Learning Center at the…

Portugal’s geographical isolation, on the western edge of Europe, has long defined its national iden-tity. At times, this isola-tion has been a challenge, as in the mid-20th century when an autocratic government over-saw years of stagnation. But for Portugal’s wine industry, the impulse to look inward has had enormous benefits, leading vintners to focus on what makes the country special—native grapes, old vines and diverse terroirs—without trying to imitate other regions. In the past two decades, Portuguese wine has been on an up-ward trajectory, showcasing bottlings that of-fer distinctive character and unmatched value. Yet many outsiders didn’t catch on at first, continuing to see Portugal as an enigma. Having only become a democracy in the 1970s, the country was still unknown to most tour-ists, who didn’t consider it a premier…

93 Whitehall Lane Merlot Napa Valley 2017 $32 CALIFORNIA This red offers an intensely fruity aroma, with well-knit flavors of plum tart, wild berry and dark cherry. A minerally snap lingers into the finish, offering luscious spiciness, with chocolate and dried green herbal nuances. Drink now through 2025. 4,164 cases made.—K.M. 92 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2020 $17 NEW ZEALAND Supple and succulent, offering a generous and juicy mix of passion fruit, Key lime and ruby grapefruit flavors. Expressive and strong on the finish, with touches of freshly grated ginger and green tea. Drink now. 50,000 cases made, 16,000 cases imported.—M.W. 91 Innocent Bystander Pinot Noir Central Otago 2018 $25 NEW ZEALAND Dried lavender, green tea, white pepper and fresh loamy earth notes are perfumed, adding an air of…

93 Corazon del Sol Malbec Los Chacayes Gran Reserva Revana Vineyard 2017 $75 Pure, with an elegant mix of vibrant cherry, red currant and plum fla-vors backed by crunchy acidity. Intense minerality lines the finish, with slate and spice accents. Drink now through 2025. 250 cases made, 200 cases imported.—K.M. 92 Altocedro Malbec La Consulta Old Vine Reserve 2018 $32 This big, rich red is filled with voluptuous dark plum, blackberry and dark currant flavors that are framed by medium-grained tannins and fresh acid-ity. Notes of chocolate and Asian spice linger on the creamy finish. Drink now through 2025. 1,200 cases made, 700 cases imported.—K.M. 91 Lamadrid Malbec Agrelo Matilde Single Vineyard 2015 $80 This contoured red is filled with rich, spicy accents amid the well-knit plum tart, cherry paste…

91 Galil Mountain Yiron Galilee 2017 $35 Concentrated and suave, showing plush flavors of rasp-berry compote and blackberry reduction layered with olive, wild herb and baking spice elements. Aromas of hot stone, ganache and loamy earth cascade onto the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Kosher. Drink now through 2025. 9,000 cases made, 1,100 cases imported.—G.S. 91 Golan Heights Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Galilee Yarden 2017 $36 Glossy, full tannins encase the brooding layers of dark cherry reduction and steeped currant, infused with sandalwood, anise and mocha de-tails. This has nice elegance despite the power, with black tea and floral notes chiming in on the finish. Kosher. Drink now through 2025. 24,000 cases made, 4,000 cases imported.—G.S. 90 Golan Heights Winery Pinot Noir Galilee Yarden 2017 $33…

Douro 94 Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional Douro 2016 $78 A beautifully crafted red that offers both concentration and elegance, with violet, kirsch and red plum reduction notes supported by nicely sculpted tan-nins. Ample flavors of clove, olive, mineral and black tea envelope the sandalwood-laced finish. Drink now through 2028. 75 cases imported.—G.S. 94 Niepoort Douro Charme 2017 $80 A suave red, with refined tannins and a profile exhibiting raspberry and currant notes mixed with rose petal, sandalwood and mineral flavors. Vivid acidity binds everything together, with wild herb, tea and smoke notes echoing on the long finish. Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca. Drink now through 2029. 977 cases made, 7 cases imported.—G.S. 93 Quinta do Crasto Douro Reserva Old Vines 2016 $45 Seamless flavors of sandalwood, steeped cherry, espresso…

There’s no disputing that 2020 has been a year of turmoil. The global pandemic; the country’s lock-down and economic recession; the nationwide demonstrations; the West Coast wildfires. At Wine Spectator, we count ourselves among the fortunate. None of our team fell seriously ill; we are working remotely with efficiency and commitment; our business has sur-vived, and in some respects—our digital audience, for example—it has even flourished. However, we have friends and colleagues in the wine business around the world who have suffered devastating losses. The wild-fires in Northern California wine country hit very close to home. Our offices in Napa Valley had first been shuttered during the lockdown, then were forced to close again by the oppressive smoke from the recent fires. Our staff there stuck it out, however, and…

1 The New Rules of Cheese, by Anne Saxelby saxelbycheese.com, $15 Cheesemonger Anne Saxelby’s new book is packed with infographics and charts that make under-standing cheese easy, and there’s something for every level of cheese lover, from handy guides to cutting and storing cheese and geeky explanations for meltability to dairy farming deep dives and cheesemaking 101. Saxelby expounds on 52 “rules” in all, from “Great cheese starts with great milk” to “Learn to speak cheese.” 2 Monaco Black 3-Knife Set boska.com, $90 Boska Holland has been making fine cheese knives and accessories for nearly 125 years, but its Mo-naco line has a decidedly modern look and feel. These stainless-steel knives are sturdier than their slim looks suggest, and the quilted pattern on the blades is designed to reduce sticking…

Antipodean Bounty These reds and whites from Australia and New Zealand deliver a wealth of flavor and personality. All of them are based on the signature grapes of each region. FIRST DROP Shiraz Barossa Two Percent 2018 (93, $35) Ripe, muscular; black cherry, spiced plum, blueberry, mesquite, cedar, pepper, paprika D’ARENBERG Grenache-Shiraz McLaren Vale d’Arry’s Original 2017 (91, $20) Cherry, black-berry, blueberry, vanilla bean, mocha, nutmeg, roasted chestnut; plump, juicy, savory ALLAN SCOTT Sauvignon Blanc Nelson Organic 2020 (90, $17) Vibrant, intense; passion fruit, guava, lemon drop, celery salt CLARE WINE CO. Riesling Watervale 2019 (90, $20) Fresh, savory; peach, pear, lime, passion fruit, lanolin, saline ELDERTON Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon South Australia E Series 2017 (90, $20) Blackberry, huckleberry, plum, Earl Grey tea, black pepper, tobacco, dried sage; expressive, muscular 3…

Champagne wrapped up a successful, extremely early harvest this year, with many producers speaking optimistically about its potential. But what might seem like much-needed light at the end of the dark tunnel that is 2020 was mired in turmoil, specific to the regulated maximum grape yields for the region. In August, the Comité Interprofessi-onnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC), Champagne’s governing body, an-nounced that yields would be set at 3.1 tons per acre, with an additional allowed reserve of .4 tons per acre. That’s a dramatic drop from 2019’s fig-ures, which were previously the lowest of the past decade at 4.55 tons per acre, with no allowed reserve. Growers who had fruit on their vines this year above the allowed 3.5 tons could opt to pay for the extra to…

It’s well-known that Bourbon comes from corn—but there’s a bit more to it. Federal law dic-tates that this American-made whiskey, in addition to aging in new charred oak containers, must include a mini-mum 51% corn. The remaining 49% of the grain, how-ever, is at the distiller’s discretion. You will be hard-pressed to find a 100% corn Bourbon, because it’s difficult to strike the right chord with a single flavor note. The corn is typi-cally joined by malted barley and either rye or wheat. This distinctive ratio of grains, known as the mashbill, starts a Bourbon on its years-long journey, influencing myriad decisions and ultimately the final flavor signature. “Mashbill is extremely important,” says Maker’s Mark master distiller Denny Potter. “It’s hard to figure out what has the greatest impact—mashbill, yeast,…

97 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva 2015 $71 ITALY Though rich, this red offers bright acidity and dense tannins that lend a sense of tightness, with pure cherry, strawberry and floral flavors that are persistent from start to lingering fin-ish, where distinct spice and mineral elements play out. Best from 2023 through 2045. 1,342 cases made, 275 cases imported.—B.S. 96 Duckhorn Merlot Napa Valley Three Palms Vineyard 2017 $110 CALIFORNIA Powerful, rich and complex, with a refined mix of currant, dark cherry and plum tart flavors backed by suave, medium-grained tannins. Well-defined slate and loamy notes stretch out nicely on the finish, with black olive hints. Drink now through 2027. 4,678 cases made.—K.M. 95 Carlisle Syrah Russian River Valley Papa’s Block 2018 $45 CALIFORNIA Combines polish and personality with…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of addi-tional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile James Laube California Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus…

Shiraz & Blends 97 Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Grange 2016 $800 See Collectibles, page 90. 96 Jim Barry Shiraz Clare Valley The Armagh 2014 $300 Opens with a nose of black walnut liqueur, dark chocolate, freshly roasted coffee, palo santo, salted caramel and nutmeg that swirls around a core of ripe, fleshy spiced plum, black cherry and cassis fla-vors. The tannins are plush and pol-ished, lending an elegant air to this powerful wine. Tremendous finish. Drink now through 2035. 40 cases imported.—M.W. 95 Penfolds Shiraz Barossa Valley RWT Bin 798 2018 $150 Complex and intense, starting with a core of juicy crushed raspberry, cherry puree and huck-leberry flavors, oozing with details of Earl Grey tea, vanilla bean, sandalwood and anise that swirl around on the long, expressive finish, backed by…

Piedmont / Barbaresco 97 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva 2015 $71 See Highly Recommended, page 89. 96 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Asili Riserva 2015 $71 Bright cherry and berry fruit picks up a saline edge in this fleshy red, which stays defined and vibrant despite the assertive tannins. In the end, all the components are in the right proportion; this just needs time to integrate. Best from 2023 through 2043. 1,111 cases made, 250 cases imported.—B.S. 96 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Ovello Riserva 2015 $71 An opulent and complex version, boasting cherry, strawberry, cut hay, iron and to-bacco aromas and flavors. Firms up nicely on the finish, with terrific balance and length. Shows both a fruity and a savory side, with fine potential to age. Best from 2023 through…

97 Mullineux Chenin Blanc Swartland Olerasay NV $90/375ml Intense yet very harmonious, this vibrant wine is gold in color and somewhat light, but keeps coming back to you in waves. Shows beautiful balance, coating the palate with rich flavors of peach preserves, candied orange, mint and honeycomb, underscored by singed lemon peel and subtle sea salt notes that offer even more allure, followed by an endless finish. The second release of this solera-aged straw wine. Drink now through 2050. 515 cases made, 130 cases imported.—A.Z. 95 Klein Constantia Vin de Constance Constantia 2017 $120/500ml This is luscious, but not tiring, with great purity and focus. The allure starts with the viscous texture, then the palate reveals layer upon layer of flavor, with notes of bergamot, honeydew melon, chrysanthemum, orange blossom…

92 Gro Chardonnay Mount Veeder Ruhl Vine-yard 2018 $42 Rich and fruity, with concentrated white fruit and ripe citrus flavors, accented by gingery notes. Light and creamy on the well-spiced finish, showing plenty of minerality. Drink now through 2025. 192 cases made. —K.M. 91 Anaba Chardonnay Carneros J MCK Estate Vineyard 2017 $46 There are lots of custardy notes to the apple pastry and dried pear flavors in this white, which are lavishly spiced. Buttery and toasty accents chime in on the rich finish. Drink now through 2024. 240 cases made.—K.M. 91 Benovia Chardonnay Fort Ross-Seaview Three Sisters 2018 $55 Big and rich-tasting, with layers of ripe pear, apple pastry and dried apricot flavors that are well-structured. Creamy accents show on the buoyant finish, with plenty of buttered toast notes.…

94 Quilceda Creek CVR Columbia Valley 2017 $70 See Highly Recommended, page 89. 93 Seven Hills Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Mountain 2017 $50 Powerfully built, with a dynamic core of tannins and acidity highlighting currant, black licorice and stony mineral accents that finish on a firm note. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2022 through 2029. 245 cases made.—T.F. 92 Auclair Left Blend Red Mountain 2017 $48 Full-bodied and richly structured, with deep blackberry, licorice and espresso flavors that build tension toward polished tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2029. 148 cases made.—T.F. 91 Browne Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2017 $35 Broad-shouldered yet polished, with expressive black cherry, mocha and dusty sage accents that build richness toward refined tannins.…

Tales From the Cellar I laughed out loud, sadly, when I read in “This Issue” (Editor’s Note) in your Sept. 30 edition about how many of us have turned to our home wine cellars during the pandemic. We typically store around 350 bottles in our modest cellar, and during Covid, while we are no longer entertaining friends at home, my wife and I decided to start consuming some of the oldest wines in our wide-ranging collection. While our storage conditions are ac-ceptable, some wines were well past their “best before” date. Among the casualties: a 1990 [Veuve Clicquot] La Grande Dame Champagne; a 2000 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley Cab; and a 2004 Pugnitello San Felice. So sad. Brian Varner Picton, Ontario Shared Sentiments I enjoyed and certainly concur with what…

Anyone suffering from pandemic pounds? Recent shutdowns have reduced physical activity for many, and holiday season goodies are approaching. But for those who worry that a glass of wine with dinner can’t be on the diet plan, researchers in the U.K. have published a study analyzing the relationship between obesity and alcohol that’s encouraging to moderate wine drinkers. Ac-cording to the data, people who drink moderately have lower body mass in-dexes (BMI) than people who avoid alcohol. And the type of alcohol con-sumed played a key role. Published this past summer in the International Journal of Envi-ronmental Research and Public Health, the study partnered researchers from Australia and the U.K; they analyzed data amassed over four years from more than 280,000 par-ticipants as part of the U.K. Biobank Resource. Participants’…

1 Lonohana lonohana.com,$16 for 2.3 ounces Lonohana grows 14 acres of cacao on a 10-year-old farm to produce its small batch bars. The North Shore 67% and 73% bars demon-strate the difference cacao quantity can have on a bar's profile, but share deep chocolate flavor and raisined fruit flavors. The salted milk bar folds in another appe-tizing product of the islands: red Alaea sea salt. 2 Waialua waialuaestate.com,$60 for six 2-ounces bars Several decades ago, Dole Foods was testing new crops on some of its land and found one place in particular that produced great cacao and coffee. Today Dole's Waialua makes three bars: Extra Dark, which is just what it says, but without being astringent; Milk, which is less sweet than most milk bars; and one with nibs that…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 95 MASSOLINO Barolo 2016 $53 ITALYA stream of pure, juicy cherry fruit is at the heart of this red, with mineral, tobacco and wild herb notes. Firm and tightly wound, with a matrix of dense, refined tannins for support. All the elements are in place. COLLECTIBLE 96 MOËT & CHANDON Brut Champagne Dom Pérignon 2010 $188 FRANCEThis graceful Champagne bundles a lot of concen-trated flavor into a lithe frame, showing fragrant notes of toasted brioche and grilled nut, with a rich underpin-ning layered with a pure chime of tangerine. SMART BUY 91 KEN WRIGHT Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2017 $22 OREGONSleek and elegantly rich, with a vibrant backbone of polished tannins and bright acidity wrapped in expres-sive raspberry and orange zest flavors, backed by sandalwood and other zesty…

Emergency dispatchers got the call early Sunday morning, before dawn, on Sept. 27. A firefighter was seeing “very, very large flames” spreading rapidly in the foothills of Napa Valley’s eastern side, at the bottom of Howell Mountain. Where was he?, they asked. Glass Mountain Road. What the dispatchers dubbed the Glass Fire was just a few hours old, but it had already scorched multiple acres. State investigators believe it started just before 4 a.m. on nearby North Fork Crystal Springs Road, a tiny country lane that winds through oak woods and vineyards. Flames spread rapidly thanks to acres of dry grass, desiccated after months of drought and record-high temperatures all summer. The fire consumed fallen oak branches and shrubs, sometimes jumping into the crowns of the trees themselves. Firefighters made…

Wine Spectator was founded in 1976, and for most of its existence, the wine community it reports on has been a growing and vital force in American cul-ture. The number of wine lovers in-creased steadily, as an appreciation for eating well became part of daily life and as vintners around the world supplied more and better bottles to put on the table. But we realize that the table has been too small. In the wake of the killing of George Floyd, a Black man, in May, coming on the heels of similar historical incidents, a wave of demonstrations swept the nation, largely under the banner of Black Lives Matter, a social and political movement that had originated a few years earlier to protest ra-cially motivated police violence. The outcry has…

97 Elvio Cogno Barolo Ravera 2016 $115 ITALY A compact, dense red, both in terms of fruit and tannins. Cherry, strawberry, iron, tobacco and tar fla-vors hold court while the vivid acidity and beefy tannins lend structure, with terrific length. Everything is in the right place, this just needs time to harmonize. Best from 2023 through 2045. 1,740 cases made.—B.S. 97 Conterno Fantino Barolo Mosconi Vigna Ped 2016 $139 ITALY Rich and almost sumptu-ous, this red offers cherry, plum, iron, eucalyptus, leather and tobacco flavors that reveal a spicy edge. The strict tannins impart a beefy quality, but there is ample fruit and terrific length. Best from 2023 through 2047. 150 cases imported.—B.S. 97 Penfolds Shiraz South Australia Grange 2016 $800 AUSTRALIA A dynamic and distinc-tive red, balancing dark bass…

90 Innocent Bystander Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019 $15 NEW ZEALAND Shows off a powerful core of mango, tangerine and lime zest flavors, with vibrant acidity and touches of grapefruit and mineral-ity on the finish. Drink now. 5,000 cases imported.—M.W. 88 Alamos Malbec Mendoza 2019 $13 ARGENTINA Focused and fresh-tasting, with notes of hot stone and graphite to the dried berry flavors. Savory spice accents chime in on the minerally finish. Drink now. 600,000 cases imported.—K.M. 88 Kirkland Signature Red Blend Napa Valley 2018 $11 CALIFORNIA Crushed red fruit and berry flavors are flanked by plenty of savory notes, with slate and cooking spice accents on the zesty finish. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Drink now. 33,275 cases made.—K.M. 87 Cline Viognier North Coast 2019 $11 CALIFORNIA…

Champagne / Non-Vintage Blanc de Blancs 94 Pierre Péters Brut Blanc de Blancs Cham-pagne L’Etonnant Monsieur Victor Edition MK.13 NV $289 This classy Champagne packs a lot into a svelte and finely knit frame, defined by sleek, mouthwa-tering acidity and driven by an underpinning of salty min-eral, with flavors of pear tart, salted almond, pastry cream and mandarin orange peel unfolding on the palate through lasting finish. Drink now through 2027.—A.N. 93 Chartogne-Taillet Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Heurtebise NV $98 Richly fragrant, with notes of marzipan and lime blossom, this firm blanc de blancs offers flavors of crunchy peach, tangerine and lightly grilled nut riding the lively mousse. Lingering, graphite-laced finish. Disgorged November 2019. Drink now through 2025.—A.N. 93 Jacques Lassaigne Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Les…

93 Valli Pinot Noir Central Otago Bannockburn Vineyard 2018 $59 Bright and fresh, offering a lively mix of wild strawberry, cranberry and maraschino cherry flavors, with accents of black tea, thyme, clove and white pepper. Shows tremendous harmony on the long, expres-sive finish. Drink now through 2030. 723 cases made, 52 cases imported.—M.W. 93 Valli Pinot Noir New Zealand North Otago Waitaki Vineyard 2018 $59 Firm up front, with fleshy plum and black cherry flavors and a touch of Chi-nese five-spice powder. Muscular, showing terrific restraint, with a mix of herb, tobacco and Earl Grey tea notes on the long finish. Drink now through 2030. 1,158 cases made, 52 cases imported.—M.W. 92 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2020 $17 See Smart Buys, page 91. 92 Valli Pinot Noir Central Otago…

92 Bodegas y Viñedos Uribes Madero Pago Calzadilla Allegro 2012 $30 This rich red delivers blackberry and currant flavors framed by espresso, meaty and tar notes. Juicy acidity and muscular, well-integrated tannins provide structure and focus. Powerful and maturing, but fresh and balanced. Drink now through 2028. 1,335 cases made, 600 cases imported.—T.M. 91 Merum Priorati Priorat Ardiles 2016 $45 This lively red delivers bright flavors of tart cherry, lico-rice, mountain herbs and spice, staying bright and bal-anced. Light, firm tannins and citrusy acidity keep this focused and fresh. Generous and graceful. Drink now through 2026. 975 cases made, 200 cases imported.—T.M. 91 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. Moscatel Sierras de Málaga Botani Old Vines 2018 $18 See Smart Buys, page 91. 90 Jorge Ordoñez & Co. Málaga No. 2 Victoria…

Pinot Noir 93 Archery Summit Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Archer’s Edge Vineyard 2017 $90 This opens with a rich, plush texture, featuring raspberry, rose petal and orange peel accents that take on structure toward the fine-grained, savory tannins. Drink now through 2027. 494 cases made.—T.F. 93 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Freedom Hill Vineyard 2017 $63 Impressively structured and expressive, with dark cherry and raspberry flavors that draw in accents of orange blossom and baking spice, fanning out on a rich, pinpoint finish. Drink now through 2026. 768 cases made.—T.F. 93 Ken Wright Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton McCrone Vineyard 2017 $63 Supple and effortlessly complex, with fresh violet and bright cherry aromas that open to raspberry, pomegranate and baking spice flavors, lingering along the lush finish. Drink now through 2025.…