Indholdsfortegnelse for February 2020 i Allure

We’ve long celebrated the creativity of beauty here, from Guido Palau’s iconic, gravity-defying hair sculptures to Pat McGrath’s paradigm-shifting makeup looks to the simple art of you, the individual, defining and owning your unique look. Today, there’s been an incredible democratization of artistry, with muses and creators found across the globe. So we hereby dedicate this issue to the inspiring, ever-shifting art of beauty. Great art connects emotionally. It makes you think. It takes risks. One person who seems like the living embodiment of that is our cover star, Billy Porter. In all of its 29 years and 345 issues, Allure has never featured a man on its cover—until today. So I’m thrilled to have the Pose star as our first. After decades of performing, the trailblazing actor is now…

Once upon a time, the beauty OGs—Max Factor, Madam C.J. Walker—used illustration to share their latest launches with the world. As Instagram gives new life to the lost art of the beauty sketch, we asked artist Esra Røise (@esrarois) to bring some of our favorite 2020 products to life.…

JACKSON POLLOCK Elevate your metallic paint job with an element of abstract expressionism. “Jackson Pollock was one of the first artists I was inspired by when I came to New York,” says nail artist Mei Kawajiri. The painter’s “drip” canvases have a splatter effect that Kawajiri finds translates well to manicures. For this look, start with a silver base, like Essie nail polish in Après-Chic, and let it dry. Then use a detailer brush to dot and drag a darker shade (here, black) in jagged movements over the nail. Repeat with two gradually lighter and brighter shades, like red and white, making sure each layer is dry before adding the next. YAYOI KUSAMA How do you make neon even more arresting? By adding inspiration from Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, aka…

my mother was in labor with me for 36 hours. There’s a joke in my family that I’ve been difficult since before my first breath. Many in my life have echoed this sentiment, and as I grew older, I learned that “difficult” is often a euphemism for “crazy.” I hated being called these things because I already had these worries about myself. But sometimes it made me proud. I’d heard stories of “crazy” women artists who achieved remarkable things, and hoped my inner turmoil would someday make me stronger, maybe even brilliant. Growing up, I experienced traumas—including sexual abuse, memories of which I repressed until early adulthood—and writing helped me process my depression and anxiety. For a time, everything I couldn’t say out loud I could somehow express in writing.…

On my way home recently, I popped into a tattoo shop to get the word whole tattooed on my left thigh in bold, Old English lettering. I was in and out in 20 minutes flat. (It was a spontaneous/intentional decision, but that’s for another time.) It got me thinking about a tattoo studio I’d discovered on Instagram about a year ago. Studiobysol is Seoul’s largest tattoo studio. It’s in Hongdae, a neighborhood equally as hip and Instagram-y as Williamsburg, in Brooklyn, where I live: cute cafés, wild street murals. But with more parks than we have in Williamsburg (it’s also home to Hongik University, one of the best architecture and art schools in South Korea), and you could never pop in for an impulsive tattoo at Studiobysol like I’d done.…

The day of our interview, Manhattan danced into her finest season—autumn, no question—and it was lovely enough to wear a cool-weather coat over warm-weather clothes. We were already running a few minutes behind when Billy Porter breezed into the Soho House New York lobby, draped in various neutral shades, earphones still attached to his smartphone, and all eyes moved toward him. If he noticed, he didn’t stop to acknowledge the scrutiny beyond a beaming apologetic smile. He kissed both my cheeks, requested three minutes to finish his conversation, and blew back out onto the street. For weeks, I’d been reading, watching, and listening to any and every interview he’d ever done. Somewhere along that road, I’d gotten the distinct impression that anything could happen when you’re meeting Billy Porter. I’d…

1912: The heart-shaped stopper on Guerlain L’Heure Bleue is meant to conjure the romance of Paris before the First World War. Internally, Baccarat artisans call their design the “gendarme stopper” because it resembles a soldier’s hat. 1948: The original Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps depicts a rising sun and a single dove to symbolize the dawning of peace. Three years later, Marc Lalique re-creates the bottle with entwined doves (above) to send a somewhat lighter message. 1953: Because it’s considered too risqué for a woman to buy her own perfume, Estée Lauder markets Youth Dew as a bath oil. Designed for pouring, the bottle encourages women to soak up their scent. 1978: With its porcelain whiteness, Cacharel Anais Anais harks back to the Victorian vanity table—and sends a subliminal message…

Outside the Lines “You don’t have to confine eye shadow to your eyes,” says makeup artist Erin Parsons. “Blending and buffing it toward the nose to make it transparent creates an awesome effect.” Parsons used the portable Temptu Air Perfect Canvas airbrushing machine to create this whisper of blue over the eyes. She then loaded lashes with several coats of vibrant blue mascara for clumpy color. Ice, Ice Baby It’s a fine line between ice queen and Mr. Freeze, but we’ve got you covered. “You want to keep your blues from getting too matchy-matchy,” says Parsons, who paired powder-blue eyes with teal lips for a perfect balance. If you have warmer skin, Parsons recommends blues with yellow undertones, like teals; for cooler complexions, try blues that verge on purple. Sky…

What is left? Lips have been painted for centuries. Cheeks have been flushed with makeup since ancient times. And the shading of eyelids burst into neon recently. But we always want more. We want bigger horizons and more profound sunsets. It was only a matter of time before we began painting our hair, that real estate on our head waiting for something other than bleach and dark dyes. That moment came on the Moschino spring 2020 runway, when a trio of artists—designer Jeremy Scott, hairstylist Julien d’Ys, and the restless spirit of Pablo Picasso—came together to transform this new canvas. Hair is only just hair if you decide it is, they seem to say. But it can be so much more. It can be a blank page.…

On staying present: “Take five minutes for yourself in the morning. A lot of the time we jump into the energy of other people by going straight to our phones. That dictates our energy for the day rather than how we are actually feeling. Be in control; be the boss of your day.” On waking up: “I don’t feel ready to get into the world until I’ve splashed some water on my face. Then I like to cleanse with Tatcha Camellia Cleansing Oil.” On drinking water: “I often say if self-love means I love you, then self-care says prove it. We can practice self-love through self-care, even if that’s just drinking water or going on a walk.” On face-cream gratitude: “I am usually more of an oil person than a…

29: Age at which Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, the youngest congresswoman in history, sat for her official portrait, wearing her signature red lipstick. Her favorite shade? Beso by Stila. 2: Products that prolific Mexican painter Frida Kahlo used to highlight her impressive eyebrows, which feature prominently in all of her self-portraits. Her go-tos were a Revlon eyebrow pencil in an ebony shade and a brow-growth enhancer by a French brand called Talika. 20,000,000+: Americans who have downloaded Facetune, a photo-editing app that allows you to change virtually anything about your appearance in a selfie. 55: Percentage of plastic surgeons who say they’ve had patients ask for procedures specifically to improve how they look in selfies (Facetune IRL). $29.95: Price for a Glamour Shots portrait session, a hybrid of a celebrity headshot and…

It was the late, great Kevyn Aucoin, of course, who brought Troy Surratt to the far, fog-soaked reaches of Hiroshima prefecture in Japan. Aucoin had developed a line of makeup and brushes for Shiseido that were exclusive to the brand’s home country and legendary everywhere else. Surratt knew about them because he had assisted Aucoin, but he only traveled to the country after Aucoin’s death, in 2002, in a kind of homage. “I needed to see what he loved so much about the country,” he remembers. In Tokyo, Surratt was introduced to an entirely new world of beauty: pigments the color of candy and the texture of water; mascaras inspired by cartoon dimensions. Then there were the brushes, their bristles pillowy and exacting. No less than 12 artisans bundled and…

She is everywhere and nowhere. Audrey Munson’s bronze shoulders slope forward atop the Pulitzer Fountain outside the Plaza Hotel as the Roman goddess Pomona, her soft flesh rippling at her hips. She wears a flaming gown of gold while adorning the Manhattan Municipal Building—the second-largest statue of a woman in New York City, next to the Statue of Liberty. She’s an angel in the skyline, and she’s lounging on the Upper West Side, and she’s at the Brooklyn Museum, and she’s in Cleveland, and in Wisconsin, a statuette on a family mantel, and shattered into abstraction in a Picabia painting on a wall of the Centre Pompidou in Paris. A magnificent virtual city was erected in San Francisco for the Panama-Pacific International Exposition in 1915—made by plastering temporary facades on…

DOES IT FLUTTER OR SWISH IN THE LIGHTEST BREEZE? DOES IT SPARKLE AND SHINE FROM A BLOCK AWAY? IS IT OVER-THE-TOP AND A TOUCH ABSURD? GOOD. YOU’RE GETTING WARMER.…

MARC JACOBS DECADENCE 15,000 Yards of faux python produced for the bottle’s synthetic cap. 625 Miles of gold chain used for the first batch of bottles. 1 Number of name options the team considered before deciding on Decadence. MOSCHINO FRESH COUTURE $82 Price of a 3.4- ounce bottle of Fresh Couture at Sephora. $2.97 Price of a 23-ounce bottle of Windex at Walmart. 2015 Year Jeremy Scott sent a Windex-inspired outfit—this bottle’s forerunner—down the runway. CAROLINAH ERRE RA GOOD GIRL 3 Years it took to develop a design that could actually be manufactured 100 Number of different shoe styles the creative team considered before landing on the final stiletto. 13 Height in centimeters of the impossibly slim heel.…

We put a lot of responsibility on colors. We foist personality on them—the onus of making us feel a certain way. Seeing red is one thing. Being green-eyed is entirely something else. A black heart withers, hardens, feels nothing; a heart of gold inspires. White knuckles. Silver tongues. They all mean what we have collectively, reasonably or unreasonably, decided that they mean. And then there’s blue. Somehow blue is in a class all its own. You never hear someone say, “I’m purple today.” Or “I always get green on Sunday.” Blue is so much more. Blue is an entire mood—one that is slow to grow but spreads with a measured pace and encompasses everything it touches. To dismiss blue as a synonym for sad would be to grossly misunderstand it.…

We have to talk about that mascara wand you’re holding. In fact, you might want to put it down. In a recent study, Kim Harley, an epidemiologist and associate professor of public health at the University of California, Berkeley, found that women wearing eye makeup made with parabens and phthalates had significantly higher levels of those chemicals in their bodies than women who did not. “Both parabens and phthalates are suspected hormone disruptors, meaning they might interfere with the action of estrogen in women’s bodies, which could impact reproductive development or be related to reproductive cancers,” says Harley. You might pay more attention to the ingredient list of products you apply in larger amounts, but location matters too: “The skin on eyelids is the thinnest on the body, so anything…

I know, I know. Tanning comes with all kinds of cautionary tales. But the threat of skin cancer and looking like a dry, leathery pair of chaps when I’m older doesn’t stop me from wanting to make my fair skin bronze. Once I discovered Jergens Natural Glow Moisturizer (an Allure nine-time Best of Beauty winner, incidentally), it became my skin—and mood—savior. Now the formula comes in travel-friendly towelettes, and one is enough for my whole body. Right before bed, I swipe the hydrating vitamin E–infused wipe all over, going light-handed around the ankles, elbows, and knees. Then I wash my hands, let my skin dry, and go to bed dreaming of the tropics. When I wake up, it almost looks like I’ve been there.…

Spring may be on the horizon, but temperatures are low, and so is the moisture—in my skin. On days when my skin feels papery and parched (thank you, heating vents on the NYC subway system), I call in the big guns: Mamonde Red Energy Recovery Serum. It’s infused with glycerin and antioxidant-rich pomegranate flower extract, so the lightweight gel is incredibly effective at getting rid of dryness, dullness, and sad winterness. The only thing chilly about it: a welcome cooling sensation when you apply it. If you’re keeping score, that’s epidermis: 1, downtown A train: 0.…

The first time I felt like a beautiful woman, I was somewhere between 13 and 15. I was walking down the street with my backpack on, [after] getting off the school bus, headed home, and these guys were hanging out the windows whistling at me, “Mamacita!” I was like, Oh, wait, I’m cute! I’m a grown-ass woman. That was my first time realizing I might be sexy. I might have something going here. At one of my first jobs, as an airline gate agent, every day people would say to me, “You look unique. Something about you.” Guys would try to buy me lunch and stuff. When I hit 25, I read a book by Louise Hay, You Can Heal Your Life. [It taught me] about self-love, about looking in…

Caravaggio found light in oil on canvas. Dürer celebrated details in watercolor. Bourgeois brought humanity to marble and bronze. Alexiades, Idriss, and Subbio sculpt with botulinum toxins and illuminate with hyaluronic acids. They probably won’t make it into Janson’s History of Art, but they’re three of the many dermatologists and plastic surgeons who are reimagining the planes of the face (and areas south) with their syringes. When injectables first arrived on the scene, they were viewed as a means to a “liquid face-lift.” Today, they’re a way to control light and shadows, to chisel angles, to round curves. And some of the doctors using them to the best effect have credentials beyond medical school. Exhibits A through C: Macrene Alexiades, a New York City dermatologist, is a trained sculptor; Shereene…

$97 VALUE FOR ONLY $15 ALLURE.COM/BOX On sale February 1-29, 2020. *You will receive one of three Belif products: Belif Peat Miracle Revital Eye Cream, Aqua Bomb Sleeping Mask or the True Cream Aqua Bomb; Nyx Multi-Purpose Buffing Brush, Pro Powder Brush, or Pro Contour Brush (all full size brushes); and Appeal Cosmetics Luxurious Lipstick or Cargo Essential Lip Color (both full size). **While supplies last.…

imagine being asked to capture a landscape with so much color, texture, and detail that the picture springs to life on canvas, transporting even the most casual observer to that exact location and moment in time. The only catch (and it’s a big one) is that you can’t see the place you’re supposed to illustrate, and no one is able to describe it to you, either. That’s because technically it doesn’t exist yet. Welcome to the enigmatic world of fragrance bottle design. It’s true that once you peel away the layers of mystery and artistry, perfume bottles serve a pretty basic function. Yes, they’re lovely to behold—their crystal necks and flower-bulb stoppers like perfect glass gardens. But at the end of the day, they’re designed to hold and dispense liquid…

1. ORMAIE LES BRUMES Baptiste Bouygues launched Ormaie with his mother in 2018. Based in Paris, the brand produces scents made with sustainable, nonsynthetic ingredients. I grew up in the countryside, so I felt very close to nature and the people who cultivate the land. When my mother and I decided to collaborate on a collection of natural fragrances, it was very important that we partner with local artisans who shared our love of creativity and know-how. I worked with Jade Lombard, our artistic director, to design the bottles, and then we set out to find the right craftsmen to bring them to life. Our glassmaker cuts recycled glass into bottles with 12 facets. To me, they represent the hours on a watch, because we put time into everything we…

DO YOU HAVE A SELFCARE MOTTO? Moisturize, honey, moisturize. LAST PRODUCT YOU FINISHED? A Kevin Murphy hair oil. I’ve been trying to find products that work for natural hair. WHAT’S YOUR SKIN-CARE ROUTINE? In the morning I wash my face in the shower. Sometimes I use the Art of Shaving regimen. After an astringent, I take an ice cube and close up my pores, then I put my moisturizer over that. Sometimes I do it [again] at night. But I’m a little lazy at night. FAVORITE SUNSCREEN? Kiehl’s. SPF 30. HOW LONG DID IT TAKE YOU TO PUT TOGETHER YOUR MET GALA LOOK? About four to six weeks. We didn’t have a lot of lead time, but that’s enough. WHAT ARE A FEW WORDS THAT DESCRIBE YOUR REDCARPET LOOKS? Fearless. Fabulous.…