Indholdsfortegnelse for May 2022 i Allure

“I’M NOT A FAN OF COBBLER, SO THIS PEACH AROMA IS THE ONLY ONE WAFTING THROUGH MY KITCHEN.”…

A great day starts with…me, myself, and I. Because to accomplish great things—as a beauty editor at Allure, as a member of the leadership council for a non-profit, as a fiancée, family member, and friend—I have to be the best version of myself. There’s no perfect way to do this, but I’ve found that a routine filled with small acts of self-love can make a big difference. When I wake up, I take some deep breaths. It’s simple, but it allows me to begin the day in the present moment. As I’m inhaling and exhaling, I take time to remember what I’m grateful for. It sets a positive tone by focusing on the good. Following this ritual, I continue to prepare for my busy to-do list. I drink a glass…

MUSK HASN’T BEEN THIS popular since your grandmother wore Jōvan in the ’70s. Searches for musk fragrances were up 109 percent at the end of last year. The latest versions, though, are a new breed. The scent of synthetic musk molecules has a skin-like quality that’s been in the background of great perfumes as a base note for the last 50 years, but now niche brands are turning it into their own thing with perfumes that smell like musk—full stop. Top notes, like Givaudan’s Moxolane, mean perfumes can smell musky right when you spray them, says Givaudan senior perfumer Sonia Constant. No need to wait for dry down. If an immediate blast of musk sounds a little daunting, don’t worry: These aren’t the heavy, musky musks of the past. “We’re…

Jess Rona’s unlikely career in dog grooming began thanks to one very particular family cat. As a teen growing up in the San Fernando Valley of Los Angeles, Rona and her mom would drive to a PetSmart 20 minutes from their home “to get this specific cat food,” she recalls. There, they spotted a help wanted sign, and Rona, who was looking for a new part-time job, was hired as a dog bather. If you thought this was the part of the story where Rona fell in love with the craft and immediately ascended to her throne as the Jen Atkin of the dog world, you’d be wrong. Rona says she “learned slowly,” due in large part to the fact that her sights were set on acting, not grooming. “I…

I’ve been getting my hair cut professionally for decades, but when it comes time to leave gratuity, I still find myself fumbling for cash, shuffling little yellow envelopes, and wondering if I should run over to also tip the assistant who shampooed my hair. Now that salons and spas across the country are getting back into full swing, it feels like a natural time to reassess how we express thanks to our beauty pros—many of whom are still making up for lost revenue during the pandemic. First, it’s important to know: Most count on tips. “It’s like in the restaurant industry,” says Christine Thompson, co-owner of Spoke & Weal salons. “Gratuity is a significant part of income for a hairstylist.” And for assistants making an hourly wage instead of a…

In many ways, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, Bliss, and Urban Decay defined the ’90s beauty scene. They introduced us to the concepts of a lipstick the color of lips, a day spa so cool it has a wait list, and a manicure in Roach. They were irreverent start-ups with dynamic founders and they eventually became part of Estée Lauder, LVMH, and L’Oréal, respectively. After a few decades of perspective, those founders—Bobbi Brown, Marcia Kilgore, and Wende Zomnir—all have new ventures and a few things to say about then, now, and why they’re doing it all again with Jones Road, Beauty Pie, and Caliray. Allure executive beauty director Jenny Bailly got them all in a room and hit record. WE START OUT TALKING ABOUT THANKS, TRANSITIONS, AND—OF COURSE—TIKTOK: Bobbi Brown: I just…

It was the style that lit up social media and sent curling iron sales skyrocketing in 2015: #livedinhair. These messy waves with smooth ends and face-framing highlights were popularized by one salon, Ramirez Tran in Beverly Hills, and now aggregate more than one million posts on Instagram. But the true legacy here has less to do with hair and more to do with a shift in the salon industry itself. “WHEN I’M INTERVIEWING PEOPLE, I’M LIKE, ‘HI! DO YOU HAVE A LICENSE?’ THEY’RE LIKE, ‘OH, NO, BUT I HAVE INSTAGRAM.’” The old-school way of hairstyling was centered on big, commissiononly salons, where stylists show up and earn a percentage of services, plus tips. If you were good, you had a loyal clientele and maybe booked a wedding here and there.…

Akiko Nails Before Akiko Sugiyama opened her eponymous salon, she was a hairstylist with a passion for Japanese nail art. As the over-thetop, detail-oriented style grew in popularity in the U.S., she saw the need for a dedicated studio and started Akiko Nails in 2013. Today it’s a go-to spot for nail art enthusiasts looking to push boundaries. (Sugiyama recalls an artist who created a working snow globe as part of a client’s set.) Sofie Pavitt If you’re looking for someone to massage in some serum, slap on a face oil, and send you on your way, Pavitt isn’t the facialist for you. The aesthetician brings out the big guns (including LED and micro-current) during appointments at her private studio, and makes a point to teach clients what products to…

The Springs Resort Catch a flight to Denver, pick up a rental car, and drive five hours south to The Springs Resort in Pagosa Springs, Colorado. (Along the way, you’ll see some of the state’s most beautiful mountain ranges.) The resort’s location was chosen for its proximity to the deepest geothermal hot spring in the world (it’s about as deep as the Eiffel Tower is tall), which feeds into 25 separate soaking pools. You can stay the night or grab a day pass. Either way, the mineral-rich waters will leave you totally blissed-out. Body Dry off and jump back in the car. You’re headed three hours south to Body, a spa, yoga studio, and wellness boutique in Santa Fe. After two years studying meditation in India, owner Lori Parrish was…

In the 1960s, my aunt Mozel left Bluffton, Georgia, and headed to Washington, DC. Like many Black folks during the Great Migration, she was looking to get away from a life of farming. Her first stop on the way to a better future: beauty school. With her cosmetology license, she opened a salon on 14th Street that became part community center (she sponsored field trips for local kids), part boutique (she sold clothes and beauty supplies), part training ground (she had a program for those looking to learn the profession), and part club (the cabaret parties she hosted were legendary). Mozel’s Beauty Salon is still there today, long after my aunt Mozel retired. But she leveraged the success of the business to buy real estate all around DC. Today, anyone…

TOP GLOSS On Tom Ford’s spring 2022 runway (1), shine came with a side of sparkle: Golden eye shadow was glazed with clear gloss until it looked reflective, and hairstylist Duffy added rows of jumbo rhinestone barrettes to sleek updos with dramatic side parts. WATER WORKS You could break a sweat giving yourself a blowout…or you could give into the whole wet-hair thing, like we saw at Emporio Armani (2). Finger-comb a dollop of hair gel, like the gold-flecked Oribe Gel Sérum Radiance, backward through towel-dried hair for a drenched look that has hold and sheen. LOUD MOUTH We haven’t been this excited about lip gloss since we were wearing low-rise, boot-cut jeans and listening to “Genie in a Bottle.” Now flares are back and lip gloss is more hot…

A 20-second hand wash will keep your hands clean…and a five-second massage with Ahava Mineral Hand Cream Cactus & Pink Pepper right after will keep them silky. The lotion is light on skin but infused with lots of hydrating ingredients: minerals from the Dead Sea, glycerin, and smoothing witch hazel. After rubbing in a small blob, my skin feels soft (never even the slightest bit sticky) and it leaves behind a delicate, refreshing, floral scent. Thanks to its portable size, this tube has become a handy (yes, pun intended) addition to my work bag. The May Allure Beauty Box includes the Ahava Mineral Hand Cream Cactus & Pink Pepper along with six other products ($23 per month). Go to allure.com/beautyreporter to subscribe to the Allure Beauty Box and get this…

You slide into a car with tinted windows and are whisked off to a discreet service entrance at the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills. Up you go in a private elevator, then slip behind a curtain, and finally, undetected, you enter a suite with dramatic city views. You are not a celebrity. You are not a reclusive tech billionaire. But you are entering a very private—and very pricey—world: the high-end plastic surgery recovery scene that seems almost as common as facelifts in Los Angeles. “It’s very VIP, very anonymous… you ring a bell and people bring you fresh smoothies,” says Olivia Schiff*, who works in fashion and spent $4,500 for three nights of recuperating at the SLS after having a corrective tummy tuck, lipo, and a lower facelift. She booked…

Where most people see a park or a field, Nelson sees a pantry full of possibilities. As a recent college grad living in Columbus, Ohio, she discovered that her lifelong penchant for snacking on edible grass and berries had a name: foraging, which Nelson describes as “gathering any [type] of plant or fungi that was not put there on purpose.” She hit the library to learn more, including how to cook with what she foraged. Eventually, Nelson began documenting her pursuits—and when, at the height of the pandemic, she posted a TikTok about how foraged ingredients could help stretch groceries, her account took off. Today, Nelson has millions of followers, many of whom know her by her user name, Black Forager. Nelson chose to put her race front and center…

When it comes to houseplants, my apartment is historically more of a burial ground than a safe haven. While I’ve tried and failed to become a plant mom over the years, that aspiration intensified during the pandemic. Working from home for the first time in my life, I became smitten with the idea of making my space lush and aesthetically pleasing, a comforting incubator safe from the unholy mess outside my walls. That meant investing in, and subsequently euthanizing, some in-home flora. My vacant ceramics heckled me from the sill. Beyond the wasted money and dirty fingernails wrought by this habit, caring for houseplants always caused me deeper frustration. It didn’t just reinforce my inability to make my own space feel restorative; it was another example of a simple task…

AMERICAN NAILS 1175 Buford Rd., Ste. 400, Cumming Before rapper Lil Yachty launched Crete, his own nail polish line, he was getting the word TOES painted thinly across four of his toenails by his dedicated nail tech Rosie Yee at this Cumming salon. Yee’s designs are meticulous but she doesn’t take her craft too seriously—inspirations include Harry Potter, Pokémon, and Naruto. CITY OF INK 323 Walker St., 353 Edgewood Ave., and 333 Peters St. Since 2007, this tattoo and piercing parlor, now with three locations, has doubled as an art gallery, music video set (Fabo’s “Tattoo”), and hub for Black tattoo artists in what continues to be a white-dominated field. JEJU SAUNA 3555 Gwinnett Place Dr. NW, Duluth The Atlanta area’s premier 24-hour jjimjilbang, or Korean bathhouse, features nine different…

When I was a kid, I never, ever liked to have my hair brushed. [One time], when we lived in the canyons in Los Angeles, my mom was brushing my hair and I screamed so loudly the police were called! [As I got older], we’d go to Marinello Schools of Beauty and I’d get my hair pressed by the students. Before I moved to New York in 2010, I would visit my sister, who’s 10 years older than me. She lived on the Lower East Side and somehow found Yany’s. She took me there and I was like, “Wow, they don’t use a hot comb.” It was the straightest my hair had ever been just from using a blow-dryer. I’ve been going to Yany’s for like 15 years. It’s a…

MAREN MORRIS: My mother is a hairdresser, so when I moved to Nashville I knew I had to find someone who could carry the torch of what she had done for me for 23 years. I googled the best salons in Nashville and then I found you. MARWA BASHIR: I remember when we met. It was the day before you released your album on Spotify. MORRIS: I had super-long hair [then]… I was still in my brunette phase. Almost 10 years later, we’ve done album covers, the Grammys…. We’ve done so many crazy looks [together]. BASHIR: You have that [salon] knowledge behind you, which I’m appreciative of. You’ve never asked me to fry your hair to make you a platinum blonde in one sitting. That’s another reason why I love…

Now that we’re deeply familiar with “self-care,” Courteney Cox is trying to make “homecare” happen. And it might be working. Unlike so many of her celebrity peers, in her first business venture, Cox has bypassed our eyelashes and epidermises in favor of our countertops and flatware. Her new brand, Homecourt, started with the most elegant surface cleaner and dish soap you ever did see and this month adds a mod candle and room deodorizers to the collection. (“It’s Febreze that smells incredible,” says Cox.) The entire line comes in four fragrances—like fresh-from-the-garden Steeped Rose, and CeCe, a mix of cardamom and cedar—that bring pure joy to our homecare routines. Told you it’s working. We’re already saying “homecare routines.”…

At 24, the singer H.E.R. is already an industry success: Last year, she won an Academy Award for Best Original Song (“Fight for You,” from Judas and the Black Messiah) and as of this writing she’s nominated for eight Grammys (including Album of the Year for Back of My Mind). She also just landed a L’Oréal Paris campaign and is on tour this spring. Though she has a glam squad now, that wasn’t the case back when H.E.R.—born Gabriella Wilson—was growing up in the San Francisco Bay Area and learning the ins and outs of hair and makeup in local salons and beauty supply stores. H.E.R.’s personal definition of beauty continues to evolve. As do her eyeliner skills. The most important tip: confidence. WHEN I WAS A KID, MY MOM…

“For this look, I used my own Blighlighter. I’ve always wanted to create my own products and I thought this would be a great proof of concept: to do one multiuse product in different colors. It acts as both a blush and a highlighter and gives skin a nice, healthy glow. I really love a monochromatic look, so I used my Blighlighter in The Cherry One; the color is like burgundy smoke. I started on the upper apples of the cheeks and blended up toward the hairline, then used a bronze shade, The Penny One, to contour the hollows of the cheeks. I love a moody, smoky eye and wanted to create contrast. Black shadow [along the lash line] really highlights the shape of the eye.” GET THE LOOK MAC…

NATTY GARDEN, BROOKLYN Both outposts of this Black-owned business sell plants of all species, from fruit trees to tiny cacti. The business also builds custom planters to make your home as flower-friendly as possible. PLANTIITAS, LONG BEACH, CA Run by two “plant daddies,” this queer-and-POC-owned haven also sells Technicolor ceramics to house your new plant babies and gives back to the community through its philanthropic program. DEVINE PLANTERY, MONTCLAIR, NJ This lush paradise is owned and operated by Black women and its attentive staff can help you curate the perfect combo of flora for your space. LEAF ME ALONE PLANT CLUB, CHARLESTON, SC “Plant murderers welcome” is the motto at this teensy shop, where new plant moms can find easy-to-care-for succulents. The shop also hosts “plant parties” where you and…

On an early Monday morning, Venice Beach in Los Angeles is buzzing. The sun is out and the cool air is forgiving, making way for warmth that requires sunglasses and a sweater. A girl zips by on Rollerblades, a woman is singing jazz on the boardwalk, a guy walks along wearing his Kobe Bryant Lakers jersey, and I’m waiting for Hailey Bieber to meet me at a café not too far from where the sidewalk ends and the beach begins. She arrives dressed like the Bieber we’ve seen captured by the paparazzi (not her favorite people) in an oversize Balenciaga leather jacket, a black skirt, and Prada loafers with thick white socks. She smiles, shyly shrugs as she waves, and sits down. We greet each other with slight familiarity. I…

Witch City Ink When owner Natan Alexander moved back to Massachusetts in 1995, tattooing was still illegal in the state. He became part of the group that helped overturn the ban, then opened his own shop in Salem, “because I love all things witchy,” he says. The studio does custom tattoos most of the year, but caters to tourists come October. “We draw up a bunch of Halloween- and spooky-occult-themed tattoos [for walk-ins],” says Alexander. Diving Swallow Tattoo Owners Cedre Csillagi and Wolf were trained at Black & Blue Tattoo in San Francisco, which Wolf says was “at the epicenter of [the queer] movement” in the ’90s. “Where else would you go to get a tattoo and not get harassed?” With Diving Swallow Tattoo in Oakland, which exclusively staffs women…

Mood House Massages are the only treatment on the menu at Mood House in Charlotte, North Carolina. Choose your “mood”—Calm, Clear, Abundant, or Awake—and your therapist will adjust your service accordingly. For example, Clear means more focus around the temples. Your therapist will speak affirmations like, “I allow stress and cluttered thoughts to slip away until my vision is clear” at the start and end of your session. “We try to help you receive the benefit of every single minute by helping you bring mental awareness to the session from the very beginning,” says founder Cristina Wilson. Upgrade This Houston boutique is the physical manifestation of Upgrade, a tech platform—founded by Harvard Business School alum Britney Winters—designed to make creating your dream wig as simple as picking up your phone.…