There are cities that embrace change with a particular enthusiasm: quick to wipe out traces of anything that feels even remotely out-of-date, constantly refurbishing, rebuilding, and reinventing themselves. Other cities seem burdened by history or nostalgia, permanently stuck in the frame of the past. Mexico City can’t make up its mind. We are quick to adopt the new but never let go of the old.
Whatever lands in Mexico City never leaves: bebop and boleros, perms and plastic stretchy hair bands, pachucos and cholas, Formica counters and leatherette stools, German street organs and candied apples, gold teeth and Sunday picnics, peach-colored wallpaper and bright-blue eye shadow, hand lettering and feathered crowns, shiny polyester slacks and zebra prints, plastic flowers and fiberglass chairs, printed holograms and cock fights, Datsuns and Galaxies,…
